- Select the best-sized Miller Dowel and corresponding Miller Dowel Drill Bit for your application. Align and secure the wood pieces to be joined. (You may even choose to glue and set all components in place.) Drill the stepped pilot hole for the dowel.*
- Spread a small amount of glue on the ribbed sections of the dowel and insert it so that it drops approximately two-thirds its length. (It will self-center and align with the 2nd board even if you have not preglued or clamped the components.)
- Tap the dowel until fully inserted.
- Trim/sand any raised portion.
*The depth drilled determines the depth of insertion. This not only allows users to countersink, tap flush, or leave raised, but also gives woodworkers the option to only use a portion of the dowel.
If only 2 ½ sections of the drill bit is used, then only 2 ½ sections of the dowel will be inserted. This technique doubles the versatility of the product because it means that each size Miller Dowel is two sizes in one. It is an ideal feature when depth or thickness is restrictive, or for achieving a decorative effect.
The Miller Dowel is perfect for use in a wide variety of wood joining and fastening applications, such as furniture, decks/docks, stairs and hand railings, cabinets, windows and doors, toys and more! Helps you avoid the problems associated with nails and screws, such as wood rot, metal corrosion and rust, nail pops, and splitting of the grain. Choose from 1x, 2x or NEW Mini-X Quick Drill kits, which include stepped drill bit and 50 Birch dowels. Dowels available in three sizes: 1x for boards up to 1" thick, and 2x for boards up to 1-3/4" thick and NEW Mini-X for joining 1/2" stock. Drill bits fit 3/8" chuck. Additional packs of 25 dowels also available in birch, oak, cherry and walnut.
Joining wood with wooden fasteners avoids the problems with nails and screws, such as Wood rot, of which even a minor amount compromises joint strength,
- 1) Metal corrosion and rust
2) Dangerous "Nail Pops" or "Shiners"
3) Splitting of the grain.
The MILLER Dowel has exceptional holding strength because the shoulder between the widest and second widest sections gets lodged in the top board. This produces a capping effect like the head on a screw or a nail. This dowel has excellent adhesion as glue remains all along the MILLER Dowels length, settling under each shoulder, instead of being forced down to the bottom of the hole or sheared off at the top.
Many woodworkers appreciate the decorative appearance of the pegged or Shaker look. Since our dowels can be stained prior to insertion, it simple to enhance the contrast for both light and dark woods.
Why use plugs to cover countersunk screws? Using plugs involves drilling a pilot hole, screwing in a fastener, then gluing and inserting the plug. Why not just skip a step by using a MILLER Dowel? Plus, you won't worry about the plugs falling out and disappearing.
Our fit remains tight. Unlike nails or screws, wooden dowels are naturally flexible and dampen vibration. There is no compression of the surrounding wood, which would loosen the fit.
The original intent for our product was to be a safety fastener. Injuries and damages caused by exposed nail/screw heads are prevented by using MILLER Dowels. MILLER Dowels introduce a new joinery technique that can be used instead of difficult, expensive, and/or very time consuming methods like blind dowels, biscuits, pocket screws, or mortise and tenon.
There is one timesaving assembly technique that is made possible by MILLER Dowels. A Chicago woodworker developed this as an alternative to the mortise and tenon joinery in his furniture design.
- In this method, pieces of wood to be joined are simply glued and aligned. Once cured, the glue eliminates the need for a brace.
- Pilot holes are then drilled, and the dowels can then be inserted for structural support.
- Not only does this method guarantee perfectly flush joinery, but it takes 25% of the time!