Plus, with our online Shutter Design Wizard, you'll get a FREE Downloadable Plan for creating custom shutters, complete with detailed technical drawings, cross-section diagrams, elevations, and lists of all the supplies you need to complete your project! Before entering your dimensions into the design wizard, consult the Measuring Guide to determine your final shutter panel dimensions.
- Easy, do-it-yourself jigs and templates for creating movable plantation-style shutters
- Save up to 75% over the cost of custom ordered shutters
- Heavy acrylic templates and aluminum fences
- Jigs make it a fool-proof process for drilling louver and control arm holes
- Includes three self-centering bits for drilling shutter pin holes and control arm holes
- Stile jig/template measures 1-5/8"H x 3-1/2"W x 20"L
- Shutter louver jig measures 2-3/4" H x 1-3/4" W x 5-3/4" L
- Drill bits have self-centering tips that fit perfectly into specific shutter template mounting holes
- A spring-loaded guide in the drill bits retract as pressure is applied and the drill bit advances
- Drill bits have a 1/4" hex power bit shank
- 1/4" drill bit measures 4"L
- 3/32" drill bit measures 3-3/4"L
- 9/64" drill bit measures 4-1/8"L
- Patent Pending
- 2-1/2'' Louver Template Set for Movable or Fixed Shutters (44342): One stile jig, one louver jig, one 3/32'' shutter drilling bit, one 1/4'' shutter drilling bit, one 9/64'' shutter drilling bit, and two 1/4'' index pins
3 Review(s)View All
One of Rockler's Better Offerings - Very HappyPosted January 6, 2015
Here are ten things I learned that will hopefully make it easier for you:
1) Before you do anything, measure each window opening carefully on ALL FOUR SIDES since contractors often don't get them truly squared. Use a level to determine if the top or bottom sill (or both) is level. Then dimension your shutters to match.
2) In my opinion, I'd skip the Rockler Shutter Control Arm Fasteners (Item #: 47678) and just go online to eBay or wherever and get a pack of tiny eye hooks that come in brass, silver (color), or bronze, and order enough to put in both the control arm and the slats themselves. Todd Fratzel's YouTube video was right - the fasteners Rockler includes are more flimsy and very difficult to work with.
3) There are several good YouTube videos on Rockler's shutters, and watching them helps avoid a number of potential snags, especially for the novice woodworker.
4) While Rockler recommends dowel pins for joining the stiles and rails, I preferred using biscuits. You could use a pocket screw like Todd did as well. I suggest using whatever you're most comfortable with to get the frame aligned properly and joined.
5) While I sanded everything, I intentionally left the slats rough saw cut from the bandsaw. When I routed them to give them the airfoil look, the edges became smooth but the flat center still had the rough look to it. I.e. I intentionally didn't plane them first because I wanted them to look rough, but I did sponge sand them to take away the splinters and make dusting possible. It kinda comes out like rough cut flooring - no splinters/feels smooth, but is still textured. It worked well for me. I suggest considering options you may like instead of just plowing through with whatever instructions.
6) Of course test fit everything before gluing, especially how the control arm will fit into the upper rail recess (the only misfit I had on this project). I would also do the rabbets and stile slat hole drilling last. Draw a line where the rabbets would be and see how your slats would fit in. If it lines up you're good to go. If not, recheck everything.
7) I would also oversize all rough cuts to afford yourself some extra material removal if needed for any bowing, twisting or cupping, especially if your milling your own lumber for this.
8) The self centering drill bits provided with the kit, started spinning around in the drill bit guide rather than drilling the wood, and I wasn't horsing it either. I had to disassemble the self centering bit and file down one side of the top of the drill bit to give it a flat surface for the set screw to hold against. And be careful when you take out the set screw as the spring will make it fly apart, so hold it into a pre-drilled hole first, and THEN unscrew the set screw.
9) Use Rockler's Measuring Guide and Design Wizard, but double check all your measurements, especially if you have skewed window openings. If you have something like AutoCAD I'd double check with that (I did since I have access to it).
10) I chose to mount my shutters on hinge pins from the top and bottom (like the shutter doors on hallway laundry closets), rather than hinging them to the side walls. This will also affect your clearances on the top and bottom for the hinge pins (which Rockler also sells), as well as rotational clearance for the corners of the stiles to clear the window frame/opening sides.
Great ProductPosted July 27, 2014
There were a couple of problems that I ran in to. Although the jigs are very high quality and durable, the Mouse Hole Jig I ordered did arrive with the acrylic plastic piece broken in half. The acrylic seems thick enough. The problem was most likely with the poor packaging, which I'm assuming led to the damage during shipping. I chose not to exchange the item and instead made a repair with superglue, which held just fine and the jig worked flawlessly.
The second issue left me a little disappointed. I chose to mill my own slats, but near the end of the project came up a little short. Instead of acquiring more wood I ordered the pre-milled slats, which I believe came in 48" length. Every single slat was significantly bowed. I considered returning them, but decided that once I cut the slats to my desired 19" length the bow was tolerable, but still noticeable.
Other challenges I encountered along the way were due mostly to my novice skills. Here are some tips that might help you out.
1. The project was more time consuming than I anticipated. I made eight shutters with a total of 152 slats. Most of the slats I milled myself (four router cuts per slat), and for each slat there were six holes to drill (912 holes!).
2. Drilling in Basswood is slow going. I discovered that I had to clean the bit after each cut to avoid tear-out and sloppy holes, again adding more time to the project.
3. Basswood also can be a very springy wood. That’s probably not the right term, but what would happen is that I would mill the lumber so that it was flat and twist free, and then make a rip cut only to discover that the wood was now bowed. Essentially there was often tension in the wood that was released when cut. The only solution I know is to mill the pieces slightly oversize so that final flattening/straightening can be accomplished.
4. Finishing the project is a bear. I did the finishing after assembly, and while spraying on paint would probably be the quickest way to go, my wife wanted a stained wood look. I do have an HVLP system, but thought with all of the different angles and pieces it might be difficult to get an even coat. I finally went with a brush on/wipe off stain, following by brushed on Waterlox, sanding, and then wipe on Minwax poly with a satin sheen. Overall I’m happy with the outcome, but this was a very time consuming process.
5. After routing with the louver bit the slats are supposed to have a 1” flat section for 2.5” shutters. I was only able to achieve a 1.5” flat section. Is this a big deal? I don’t think so, but I did spend some time adjusting the bit in my router table trying to achieve the cut according to the instructions.
6. Tools I used that I would consider a must are a table saw, router table, and planer. A jointer would have been nice to flatten one side of the wood prior to planning; I used a hand plane.
7. Although the shutters I made are square, I discovered my window casings are not exactly square. This obviously caused some issues when mounting.
Overall the products supplied by Rockler worked fabulously. I’m not a very experienced woodworker, but if you take your time you can do this project.
BestPosted July 23, 2014