About a year ago, I wrote...
Posted January 22, 2012
About a year ago, I wrote a review of the Rockler barrister door slides. Since that time I have installed them several times and can comment from a bit more experience. I was concerned with the look of the door when the gap between the top of the door and the top lip of the cabinet is as large as 1/4", which is the size of the opening given in the specification for the slides. The size of the gap arises from the need for clearance between the bottom 30-degree chamfered edge of the cabinet top and the top of the door as it is opened. I found that the clearance can be improved by dishing in the bottom chamfered edge with a round router bit. Also, the attention the gap commands visually can be reduced by chamfering the top edge of the door by 30 degrees to match the chamfer in the cabinet. By implementing these changes, it is possible to reduce the gap to 1/8", which is visually quite appealing, and is also equal to the gaps I specified for the other sides of the door. It is important to comment on the method used to install the doors so that they fit correctly. The vertical position of the slides fastened to the cabinet members CL and CR controls the gap between the door and the upper lip in the cabinet opening as the door slides into the cabinet. There is no adjustment available for this once the holes are drilled. The holes are best positioned by placing a spacer between the top of the slide and the cabinet top. I discussed this in my last review. What is more critical is the positioning of the holes in the door. The members that attach to the door DL and DR are designed for some side to side horizontal adjustment, but no vertical adjustment. The horizontal adjustment is necessary to get a fit without excessive play in the door during opening and closing. To get the vertical adjustment right, which is very important in getting the correct vertical position of the door when it is closed, I first made a jig that would allow the holes to be drilled in the doors repeatably. However, the result was very disappointing. This turned out to be caused by variation in excess of +/-1/16" in the position of the slots in the slider brackets with respect to the roller. In other words, there are small dimensional variations in the DL and DR hardware. Because of this, I would recommend positioning the door correctly in the opening and marking the hole positions from the back, using the hardware, before the back of the cabinet is installed. After this, it is important to track which member belongs to which door.
Worked very well for my project.
Posted August 16, 2011
Worked very well for my project.
The product is sturdy and appears...
Posted January 30, 2011
The product is sturdy and appears high quality.The instructions and I use the term loosely are not for the typical DIY-type. The "instructions" are very, very brief with a diagram that, quite frankly, just sucks.As an engineer, I could take the diagram and come up with the proper mounting dims. So if you decide to use these set aside ample time, practice your zen and go to a happy place, read Ken Wagner's excellent review for important tips and have at it.
Once you set up the slide...
Posted January 28, 2011
Once you set up the slide as shown the gap between the door and and the inside of the cabinet is too great as some of the other reviews have pointed out. to fix this you can increase the banding trim size from 3/4 to 1 1/4 or you can recess the door 1/2 inch all the way around. You will still need to add a 1/2" trim piece as the drawing shows but at least your shelves are not extending out. The other important task is not to position the door guides which attach to the door as shown in the picture. The front guide wheel should be back 1/4" from the edge of the door. This will help you eliminate the gap. Good Luck!!!!!
Barrister doors are of the inset...
Posted January 26, 2011
Barrister doors are of the inset type-that is, they fit within the cabinet opening. The barrister door slides upward and under the cabinet top. In so doing, the door occupies about 1 5/16 of vertical space for 3/4 thick doors. So if the cabinet is used for books, the maximum height of the books needs to be at least 1 5/16 shorter than the inside height of the opening. For the 9" hardware, the minimum height of the door is about 9 7/8 . A door of this size will slide fully back into the cabinet, so the minimum cabinet depth from front to the inside back is also 9 7/8 . Of course the door height can be greater. In this case, 9 7/8 of the door slides back into the cabinet and rest projects from the front.Each set of barrister door hardware comes with four parts stamped on the inside with the letters CL, CR, DL, and DR. C denotes cabinet , D denotes door and L and R denote left and right respectively. Each set comes with a small shop drawing and instructions. The instructions are fine, but too brief. First, a few words about construction strategy are helpful. I constructed the cabinet from 3/4 plywood with 3/4 edge banding on the front sides and bottom. The top edge banding requires special treatment. If the top edge were treated like the sides and bottom there would be a large gap between the top of the door and the top inside edge of the cabinet. For this reason the top edge banding needs to be wider than 3/4 and needs to have a 30 degree chamfer on the bottom edge. This is shown in the instructions, but the value of the angle is omitted. This allows the door to rotate up, minimizing the gap to 1/4 when the door is closed. From the geometries involved, I concluded that it is not possible to reduce this further.The instructions omit a dimension showing the vertical placement of the C members. I concluded that the best distance between the top of the cabinet opening and the top edge of the member is 1 1/32 . It is convenient to cut a small board this width and about 7 ½ long. This can be placed between the top of the cabinet and the top of the member to allow for convenient and consistent positioning. The front of the member should be set back 13/16 from the cabinet front for 3/4 doors. There are slots which provide some front and back adjustment, but it is not much. It is best to drill the holes as accurately as possible for good results.The instructions call for a rabbet cut on the inside vertical edges of the door. The rabbet is ½ wide and 5/16 deep. Once this is done, the D members can be attached. However, the exact positioning depends on the horizontal gap between door and cabinet opening. I opted for 1/8 on each side, and in fact, this looks quite attractive. When mounting the hardware on the door, the roller on the member should be flush with the top of the door and the inside edge of the member should be located about 1/16 beyond the inside edge of the rabbet. Again, there are slots that allow some adjustment, but it is still less than one might need, if the placement is not done carefully. I designed the door so that the vertical gap at the bottom is also 1/8 .The door is installed by guiding it down and back, engaging the C member rollers, then hinging it forward. At this point a stop can be installed that keeps the door from swinging into the box. After assembly I found that the #6 ½ flat head screws provided with the hardware did not adequately recess into the C member slots causing interference with the D member when the door is opened. I replaced these with #4 ½ flat head screws and this solved the problem.In summary, the hardware is very robust and works perfectly. The installation is a bit tricky, and the instructions are too brief. I hope that some of the tips I describe will help others who want to use this hardware in their cabinet construction.