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- Home /
- Woodworking Jigs /
- Joinery Jigs /
- Rockler Beadlock® Pro Joinery Kit
Overview
Get incredibly strong, totally concealed joints with just your hand drill and the Beadlock Pro Kit. Beadlock® Pro does everything Beadlock® Basic does, but adds greater capacity and adjustability, plus the ability to create traditional smooth-sided mortises. Just pop the included paring block into the jig to provide an accurate guide for your chisel. With a 3-1/2" width capacity, it will easily handle the large joints found in tables, chairs and big casework. Slide the guide block along the rails to place your mortise precisely where you want it. Includes Beadlock® Pro Jig, 3/8" drill bit, 3/8" stop collar, 3/8" Beadlock® guide block, 3/8" mortise paring guide block and a molded plastic case with added space for the optional accessory kits. All Accessory Kits include corresponding guide block, mortise paring guide block, HSS drill bit and stop collar. Storage case is molded with additional spacing for optional 1/4" and 1/2" drill block sizes (#39882 and #36546, sold separately).
Features:
- Beadlock® system overlaps drill bit holes precisely to accept a special Beadlock® loose tenon
- Creates an extremely strong, totally concealed joint
- Integral clamp
- Infinite adjustability
- Constructed of heavy-duty 3/8" anodized aluminum with
- All adjustments are made with easy-grip knobs
- Index lines on the guide block allow you to precisely align the jig with your reference marks
- Index lines on the ends of jig, allow you to line up mortise width-wise on the piece
- Handles stock thicknesses of 3/4" and up
What's included
(1) 3/8" Stop Collar
(1) 3/8" Beadlock® Guide Block
(1) 3/8" Mortise Paring Guide Block
(1) Molded plastic case with space for Accessory Kit
Technical Details
- Brand: Beadlock
- Manufacturer Part Number: TAMPJ-38K
- Weight (lbs): 7.9500
Product Warnings

Technical Downloads
Related Articles
- beadLOCK Pro and Basic Joinery Systems with Adjustable Drill Guide and Mortise Paring Kit
- Beadlock Loose Tenon Joinery Success
- Making Doors with Mitered Corners
- The New BeadLOCK - Easier, Faster, and Still Affordable
- A Strong Argument for Loose Tenons
- The New BeadLOCK Jigs - Affordable, Rock-Solid Joinery
Frequently Bought Together
Questions and Answers


A real time saving jig which is what we need.
A real time saving jig which is what we need.
The Beadlock is a great and more affordable alternative to the Domino. I'm confident people would pay more for a beefed up version with top notch bass knobs and upgraded version.
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- Steve Staff on Jun 9, 2015
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- Steve Staff on Jun 9, 2015
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- WILLIAM F on Oct 6, 2015
- Purchased on Jan 31, 2015
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- WILLIAM F on Oct 6, 2015
- Purchased on Jan 31, 2015
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- Don on Nov 18, 2016
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- Guest S on Sep 27, 2017
- Purchased on Sep 4, 2017
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- Guest S on Sep 27, 2017
- Purchased on Sep 4, 2017
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- Peter J on Oct 6, 2017
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- Peter J on Oct 6, 2017
You will need a special mounting system to position the drilling block on the 45 miter face.
Additionally the depth of drilling will need to be precisely controlled so as not to cut through the opposing side.
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- Glen R on Oct 28, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 7, 2015
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- stephen t on Apr 5, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 5, 2015
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- Glen R on Sep 23, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 7, 2015
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- Glen R on Sep 23, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 7, 2015
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- Erik E on Sep 23, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 15, 2015
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- Fred M on Sep 23, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 7, 2015
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- David R on Sep 23, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 31, 2015
Yes, as long as you will be drilling parallel to the faces of the rail board, but you will need to be extra careful in your layout. The Beadlock tenon stock will travel perpendicular to the end of the rail, so, at an angle to the grain, but must travel parallel to the faces of the rail so that it doesn't come through the faces and show. The tenon stock will travel like normal in the leg of the stand, but you are not going to have a good reference face in the end grain due to the compound cut there. Layout is key, I suggest you layout the entire tenon on each piece on the outside so that you can visualize where it needs to be and how it travels, give yourself extra space above it and below it, because in the leg it will be traveling uphill towards the shortest corner, but in the rail you will be traveling downhill towards the lowest edge (which bevels backwards and is shorter on the inside face). It may make sense to not do the top & bottom bevels on the rail or the compound bevel on the legs until after you have done the Beadlock mortises and leave that board wider than necessary (you WILL need to cut the ends of the rails to properly do this, though). Since you are not going to be able to use an end or corner as reference like you can with a square project, after you do the layout, you will need to make yourself a reference point/lines to work from with the Beadlock. You will use that set of lines for all the mortises so all the mortises will be drilled from the same reference line. You will need to drill the rails slowly because you will be fighting the grain. Good Luck! In your case definitely Measure Twice and Cut Once!
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- Inaccurate
- WILLIAM F on Aug 1, 2015
- Purchased on Jan 31, 2015

Yes, as long as you will be drilling parallel to the faces of the rail board, but you will need to be extra careful in your layout. The Beadlock tenon stock will travel perpendicular to the end of the rail, so, at an angle to the grain, but must travel parallel to the faces of the rail so that it doesn't come through the faces and show. The tenon stock will travel like normal in the leg of the stand, but you are not going to have a good reference face in the end grain due to the compound cut there. Layout is key, I suggest you layout the entire tenon on each piece on the outside so that you can visualize where it needs to be and how it travels, give yourself extra space above it and below it, because in the leg it will be traveling uphill towards the shortest corner, but in the rail you will be traveling downhill towards the lowest edge (which bevels backwards and is shorter on the inside face). It may make sense to not do the top & bottom bevels on the rail or the compound bevel on the legs until after you have done the Beadlock mortises and leave that board wider than necessary (you WILL need to cut the ends of the rails to properly do this, though). Since you are not going to be able to use an end or corner as reference like you can with a square project, after you do the layout, you will need to make yourself a reference point/lines to work from with the Beadlock. You will use that set of lines for all the mortises so all the mortises will be drilled from the same reference line. You will need to drill the rails slowly because you will be fighting the grain. Good Luck! In your case definitely Measure Twice and Cut Once!
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- WILLIAM F on Aug 1, 2015
- Purchased on Jan 31, 2015

What I have learned is that the device is very versatile and with some simple longer screws, etc., you can quite possibly make it work for you. Rockler will refund your purchase if you find you cannot adapt it to your project.
Regards, Carlos
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- Carlos S on Aug 3, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 20, 2015
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- Travis M on Oct 6, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 11, 2015
While the plastic tri-wing knobs work well in many applications due to my larger hands I was skinning my knuckles too much and replaced the knobs with socket hex-head cap screws and use an Allen hex wrench to tighten those fasteners.
To insure that the beadlock fixture does not move during use I use an Irwin Quick Clamp for added insurance.
The sale price of $109.99 is a great offering and this system produces solid, well aligned joints in minimal time.
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- Glen R on Feb 21, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 7, 2015
thanks
mack
Their router bits are well worth it to make your own tenons out of any type of wood, would definitely go with 1/2 tenons for 1" and up stock.
While the plastic tri-wing knobs work well in many applications due to my larger hands I was skinning my knuckles too much and replaced the knobs with socket hex-head cap screws and use an Allen hex wrench to tighten those fasteners.
To insure that the beadlock fixture does not move during use I use an Irwin Quick Clamp for added insurance.
The sale price of $109.99 is a great offering and this system produces solid, well aligned joints in minimal time.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- Glen R on Feb 21, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 7, 2015
thanks
mack
Their router bits are well worth it to make your own tenons out of any type of wood, would definitely go with 1/2 tenons for 1" and up stock.
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- Jonathan D on Feb 21, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 20, 2015
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- Andrew on Nov 30, 2016
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- Andrew on Nov 30, 2016
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- Kevin L on Feb 14, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 5, 2015
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- David S on Feb 23, 2018
- Purchased on Mar 2, 2016
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- David S on Feb 23, 2018
- Purchased on Mar 2, 2016
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- WILLIAM F on Nov 15, 2015
- Purchased on Jan 31, 2015


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- WILLIAM F on Nov 15, 2015
- Purchased on Jan 31, 2015


Reviews
My one error was due to drilling a dowel on the wrong side of the line on the jig. However by being mindful of this, I feel confident using the jig for dowels, Beadlocks, or loose tenons.




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Joining gate frame with an inch and an eighth dado in center for wood lattice.
Instructions were step by stp lettr perfect. Nobody at Rockler could tell me if mitered corners on 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" material could be beadlocked.
It can!
Used 1/2" tenons.
Built first joint with scraps. Thouroughly impressed.
Hard part of assembly was getting all joints glued up before dry joint.
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This has enabled me to create amazingly accurate, clean and extremely strong floating tenon joints in a fraction of the time it takes to go the traditional route and with the added bonus that the shape of the tenons resist racking.
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I've used it to join long edges together for table tops and side panels, and dresser legs to rails, and so on. As with most woodworking, the key to getting this thing right is to measure well. And don't get complacent with which side you've done first when you have to loosen, move and tighten down the paring block. (If you're doing a lot of these, you tend to get into a zone - or I do - and can screw it up.)
Pics below are a couple of the projects where it came in handy.




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The directions are well done but you should do some practice cuts before using on an actual project. There is some learning curve when joining wood of different sizes. I did find that when making the second set of drill holes a flash light helped determine which holes to drill.
One improvement that could be made is to include storage space for the loose tendon stock in the storage case.
Overall I would purchase this jig again.
Larry Kolbrak
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Jeff Korbman
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It does have one significant design flaw. The two thumbscrews for locking the Guide Block into place are not adequate. Unless you screw the thumbscrews extremely tight the Guide Block may shift sideways while drilling. Bummer! Since the Guide block must be moved for each mortise drilled it slows down progress and is rough on the thumbs.
The Guide Block should be in one of only two positions, either full right or full left. There is no need to lock it in a middle position.
Therefor, I recommend a design change to allow the Guide Block to be placed only into either of those positions. Adding groves and matching ridges to the Guide Block and Jig would allow the Guide Block to drop into either of the proper positions. That would be much faster than loosening and fastening a pair of small thumbscrews.
I hope someone with authority to act is paying attention.
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I decided this unit wasn't the best unit for easily joining plywood panels (or boards), and wound up buying the auto-centering dowel jig. This unit is so easy to get the perfect joint between boards so the surfaces are spot on (if both pieces are exactly the same thicknesses). Buy the complete jig for about $12 more, as what you get is more than worth it.
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The two major limiting factors for this are material thickness and material width. Stock must be roughly 1 1/4" thick for the clamp to properly grip and lock the stock in place. And this jig won't accommodate anything over 3 1/2". So it is very limited those applications.
So with a bit of curiosity and some help from my friend Jerry and and his rigs i was able to find a way around this. I was working with 3/4" material that was 4" wide. I removed the front face of the jig (the piece with the clamp) and locked the back face into the tail vise on my workbench. This stabilized the jig plenty enough to use a couple quick clamps to lock my stock in place and keep everything in line. With this set up the jig functions as it normally would with no loss in performance or accuracy.
One limiting factor that remains is that I can still only drill the mortise parallel to the edge of the stock. And I can only go roughly 3 3/4" from the edge of the stock without the drill guide becoming sloppy while hanging off the guide rails.
I am trying to find a way to build a jig to hold the drill guide adequately so that I can drill perpendicular to the edge of panels that also will allow me to traverse at least 12" or so.
Sorry, I don't have pictures of the set up I used with the tail vise. But it really is just as simple as it sounds.
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As you can see in the photos, it can be used as a dowel jig as well as with floating tenons. For the smaller pieces that wouldn't allow tenon stock I just centered the piece using two pieces of tape on the jig as reference and used the two center most holes to drill dowel holes.
Issues I ran into:
1. When I got to drilling the second set of holes, if I hit something hard in the wood, it would walk over to the side and the bit would want to fall into the original holes. This happens about 30% of the time. No amount of cranking down on the knobs prevented this. It was frustrating, but to remedy, just reset the holes back to their original position, reset the piece in the jig, then slide back over to the second set of holes and give it another shot.
2. As I mentioned above, no amount of cranking down on the work piece could prevent all walking. This is especially the case on smaller pieces that aren't completely covered by the hold down "disk". Would be nice to see a redesign that allows skinnier pieces to be held tight.
3. I'd pay more if all the knobs and pieces of the jig were just a bit "meatier". I felt a bit apprehensive in really cranking down on a couple of the knobs. And even if I did, when I hit some resistance in the wood, the holes sometime not only walked side to side, but front to back, and then the pieces didn't line up perfectly.
4. Wish they could figure out how to give this jig the ability to "self center". That would make this a really amazing tool. Centering I found to be a problem, that is, really getting it perfectly centered and staying there...see "walking" above. The other issue is that the reference marks on the jig to match up with the center line (that you have to mark) didn't line up with each other. Basically there are two separate marks on the side on two different pieces of the jig and they aren't in line with each other, so I didn't know which one of them to line up with my line. Important to keep the jig always referenced to the "outside" or "inside" of you work so that everything lines up.
5. I did have to clean out the holes with a small screwdriver. This was time consuming, but not a deal breaker.
6. Tenon stock price. These are very expensive. It's like buying a printer for cheap, then having to spend a lot on ink. Having to use dowels on a lot of my pieces kept the cost down on this project. Got a whole box of 3/8 dowel pins for a couple dollars.
Aside from the above issues, which were manageable, I'm very happy with my purchase overall. For around a hundred bucks (on sale), I feel that I got a hundred dollar jig, and then some. And my stools turned out great!


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