The middle of a glue-up is no time to be searching around for the clamps you need. But for many of us, sadly, that’s the way things usually happen. If only we all had a place perfectly designed for storing clamps, adhesives, rags and other clamping-related equipment; or better still, a handy rolling clamp storage cart that we could bring right up to our workbench whenever we needed it.

The tool designers at Rockler know that in just about every shop, space is at a premium – and that it’s especially true for a small home-shop. To help out, they’ve recently tackled one of the most pernicious shop organization problems known to woodworking. With the new Pack Rack Clamp and Tool Storage System, you now have the opportunity not only to easily keep tabs on your core clamp collection, but also a chance to free-up valuable shop space, and streamline the clamping/gluing process.

The basic Pack Rack consists of a heavy-duty steel A-frame mounted on four industrial-quality casters and a system of  5/8” steel clamp-hanging rods, which can be arranged in any of thirteen possible positions. The eight clamp rods included with the basic kit will let you keep all of your most used clamps at your fingertips, on up to 4 foot pipe and bar clamps.

But you won’t want to stop there. Fitting the bottom of the Pack Rack frame with a plywood shelf will help you keep glue bottles, Clamp-It Assembly Squares, Web Clamps, a dead blow mallet – whatever comes in handy during the clamping process – ready and in reach. Also included are four steel auxiliary shelf brackets for the addition of a shop-made shelf at the height of your choice. The shelf brackets hang from the clamp rods, and are designed to provide a little extra shelf-to-bar clearance, and won’t interfere with the clamp-hanging function of the bars.

Even more space and versatility comes with a few accessories. Additional shelf hooks and standard clamp rods are available for a modest price, in sets of two and four respectively. Extended-length clamp rods are also available. They extend out past the edge of the Pack Rack frame and give you a place to keep those awkward extra-long pipe and bar clamps. And to top it all off (no pun, please) there’s an optional steel top shelf that bolts on to the top of the frame.

When it’s all said and done, the Pack Rack offers the potential for a one-stop mobile glue-up station. It’s a great storage solution, both for large shops, where it simplifies the process of moving clamps, glue and related equipment form one location to another, and for small shops, where it helps keep things organized and out of the way when not in use. We think it’s a winner, and we can’t wait to hear the same from Pack Rack owners. In fact, we’re so anxious to hear what our customers think, we’re planning to give one lucky Pack Rack customer reviewer (chosen at random, of course) a $100 Gift Card just for offering an opinion. How’s that for a deal? Efficient, rolling clamp-containment and - provided you post your review by June 15 - a chance to win back two thirds of the cost. See the Pack Rack offer for details.

Wood filler

Wood filling can be devided into two basic tasks: filling voids – such as nail holes, chips and dents – and filling the pores of “open grained” woods, like oak and mahogany.  Fillers designed strictly for filling voids are thicker, and for one reason or another may not work well for filling grain pores – they may contain particles too large to work into miniscule grain openings, or may not be easily thinned down to a viscosity suitable for the task. Fillers designed strictly for filling grain are thinner, with a consistency often compared to pancake batter. They simply lack the “body” to fill larger voids. Some fillers can be used for both - they are thick enough to span a void, and can be thinned to fill grain pores in an entire wood surface.

For filling voids, many woodworkers swear by fillers composed of a nitrocellulose lacquer binder and wood flour (very fine wood particles). Famowood is an example – and a product that truly lives up to its name. It dries quickly, shrinks minimally, comes in a variety common wood species, and earns customer reviews like this:

“There is no substitute when it comes to the best of the best. That’s what Famo is all about. You simply will not find a better wood filler. Its ability to basically become invisible is what sets it apart from everything on the market. Nail holes vanish, slight imperfections in a mitered joint seam together...”

Wunderfil, another favorite, is a dual purpose filler. It comes in putty form, suitable for filling voids, and can be thinned with water to a consistency that works well for filling grain. It cleans up easily with water and is available in a number of colors, which can be mixed together or custom tinted to produce a perfect color match. Wunderfil is also heartily endorsed in our customer reviews:

"The absolute best filler I have used. I have only used this for damage repair so far but will be starting a project soon and using it as a grain filler. Have confidence it will work well. Nearly undetectable after being stained."

"I recently build a desk for my wife using 5/4 oak for the top. I've never used a woodgrain filler before and couldn't find any on the store shelves. Got it from Rockler, followed the directions and was very happy with the results. Showed it at my woodworkers club, Woodworkers of El Paso and was highly praised for it...thanks Rockler."

"Unquestionably the easiest filler to apply and sand I have ever used. "

(etc.)

Products designed strictly for filling grain come in two varieties: oil/varnish based and water based. Bartley Paste Wood Filler is a classic oil based grain filler, and a top choice for filling grain under oil based wood finishes. It comes in three shades and when used as correctly, will produce the perfectly flat surface necessary for a “glass-smooth” finished product. Crystalac is a water-borne grain filler, cleans up easily, works under any type of film finish, and has a unique and often desirable property: it dries water-clear.

Filling grain requires something of a “knack”, and seems to be the source of the most wood-filling confusion. But it’s not beyond the reach of anyone with average woodworking skills. As with any advanced finishing technique, a little knowledge and a practice run or two can go a long way. If you’ve never filled grain, advice from a pro – such as that found in a wood finishing book or DVD - can really flatten out the learning curve. Bob Flexner’s Understanding Wood Finishing, for example, contains a thorough discussion of various grain filling techniques that can help you choose the best method, and apply it successfully on your first try.

If your tool of choice happens to be a lathe, on the other hand, luck is on your side. While the stock lasts, Rockler is offering truly unique Bubinga Bowl Turning Blanks in a variety of sizes – all cut from the very same tree that’s been causing all the stir.

Of course we couldn’t leave turners out of the loop - it’s such an obvious application for the material. Despite its hardness (heavier and harder than maple) Bubinga is a prized turning species. It has a fine texture, machines well, and polishes unaided to an almost glossy surface. In terms of color, even an “everyday” hunk of Bubinga has plenty to offer: namely, a subtle range of rich reddish brown tones punctuated with darker grain striping. On top of that, this particular Bubinga offers a striking grain pattern - uncommon for the species - and comes from a tree of uncommon proportions and notoriety.

Right now, blanks are available for everything from small decorative pieces on up to show-stopping bowls and platters. You’ll also find a few larger dimension chunks, any of which would make a great set, or could represent one-of-a-kind opportunity for oval turners. Whichever way you might decide to go, we’ll offer the same advice that we did when the board-foot lumber hit the market: if you’re interested, don’t procrastinate. We don’t expect these unique blanks to last long, and when they’re gone, they’re gone.

The Wixey Protractors work by electronically comparing a reference angle of zero degrees with any other angle over the tool’s 180 degree range. But instead of using the fixed plane of a tool surface as a reference – as is the case with the Digital Angle Gauge - the digital protractors take their reading based on the location of a positionable blade. This, of course, adds tremendous versatility: you can take angle readings with an accuracy of +/- .1 degrees in any plane, in any orientation – anywhere. Both models have a blade lock-down mechanism for holding angle settings. And both have strong magnetic strips on all blade edges, making them perfect for setting table saw bevels, band saw table angles, jointer fences and any other set up task on tools with ferrous metal surfaces.

The 3” protractor is small enough to fit in your shirt pocket, and works great for quick, accurate tool set ups, marking angles on small parts, and reading angles in tight spaces. The longer blades of the 8” model give you the added reference surface length required for larger projects, like reading the true angle of wall intersections for trim work, laying out cabinet parts, etc. Either one will give you something all woodworkers need – precise angle measurements.

We think they're both very useful additions to a wave of woodworking-oriented electronic measuring devices that already includes decimal digital calipers, fractional digital calipers, Rockler's own highly rated digital height gauge, digital planer readouts, and moisture meters. And since the Wixey protractors simply haven’t been on the shelves long enough to accrue the customer accolades they deserve, we’ll leave you with a sample of the more than 50 reviews of another favorite, and their nearest relative: the afore-mentioned and extremely well-received Digital Angle Gauge:

"Wow! This is one of those products that you just gotta have. Form table saw blade angles to jointer fence settings, it's really improved setup accuracy."

Ted Prinz, from Webberville, MI

"A must-have for the shop. Consider it a must for the table saw and jointer. Worth every penny."

Matt R, from Lake City, AR

"VERY HANDY!!! This little guy gives great confidence to set ups up real fast. It is so quick and easy you don't mind checking angles frequently - resulting in better looking projects."

John, from NEW YORK

"Constructing a gazebo. Hexagonal. 10 feet per side. Used the gauge on the table saw to make the outside wall foundation pillar posts. When the outside wall forms, 22 inches high, were secured, the hexagon was 1/8" off fit. Pretty darn good for 60 feet of wall. Great tool and darn accurate. Thanks."

John Marks, from Pine Grove, CA

"From the moment I unpacked this product, it has proved it's worth time and time again. It has made precise setup effortless. I recently needed to cut some dovetail splines for a shadow box project I was making. The splines needed to be cut at a precise 14 degree angle to match the dovetail slots. With the Digital Angle Gauge, it was effortless to set my table saw blade to a precise 76 degrees and rip my splines. They were 100% accurate. I would recommend this product to anyone who needs precise angles; and let's face it, who doesn't?"

Mark Andrews, from Kokomo, IN

And now, with the addition of a “Top-Rated Products” link to the Rockler.com website (in the upper left corner) finding useful, unbiased information on everything from hinges to screws is easier than ever. Choosing this handy option will take you to a wealth of often detailed customer reports on a wide range confusion-inducing hardware items. Better still, it’s all neatly categorized and easy to navigate. In just a few seconds you can be deeply immersed in the nitty-gritty on just about anything you could have on your list.

It’s amazing how clearly customer reviews can answer specific hardware questions. Let’s say, for example, that you’re wondering whether there’s an easy-to-install center mount drawer slide available to replace old, worn out or inferior slides. A quick read through customer reviews of Accuride’s Center Mount Slides for Face Frame Cabinets will tell you that there is, and that they’re easy to install and actually work:

"I used these center mount slides to replace inferior drawer glides on a chest-of-drawers we purchased from one of our local furniture stores (the plastic guides had broken after a week of use). The unit was worth the time to change over to the "Accuride center mount slides" instead of the cheap factory installed glides. The drawers can now support the clothes in them instead of falling out when opening."

Michael Reed, from Springfield, IL

"We replaced our original parts from our bathroom vanity (our house is 44 years old) with this product and I can only say positive things about it. It saved us tons of money, and we also could keep the original charm of the house that we loved so much when we purchased our home. "

Brett Hudock, from Chesapeake

"Refaced kitchen cabinets and reused the drawers in some simple cabinets that I built for the workshop. Used the center supports to make the cabinet work simple and was very please with the simplicity and operation of the supports. I now have more than adequate space in my chest of drawers to keep things organized."

Willie Williamson, from Marietta, GA

"We replaced center wooden slides with these slides. We tried 2 other styles that did not work very well. These are great, they slide smooth with no side movement at all. They are also very easy to install."

Larry Harvey, from Salem, OR

Or, you could have a “heavy duty” drawer slide project on your hands, and need a slide that travels easily under heavy loads and above all, won’t give out. Depending on what the slides are intended to support, you might be less than thrilled about making a purchase based strictly on a manufacturer’s specs. In that case, customer reviews of Accuride’s Heavy Duty Full Extension Slides could go a long way in putting your mind at ease. After all, if the very same slide is out there right now holding up washers, dryers and 200 lb. woodworkers...

"We made some drawers that were 27" wide 24" tall and 48" front to back. These sliders made the drawers operate with the tip of your finger. I even went as far as to put one of my employees in the drawer and close it. Even with 200+ pounds in it they still slid with a finger tip."

Chad, from Franklin, TN

"I purchased 2 pair of these (28") for a Washer/Dryer pedestal I have been working on. These things are serious drawer slides. Probably overkill for what I used them for but I won't need to worry about them being overloaded!"

 Tony Jones, from Sullivan, IL

"I installed these 20-inch slides flat under a platform for my 42-inch LCD TV in an armoire. Great product, great service."

Michael R. Walsh, from Brecksville, OH

Or you might have a whole kitchen’s worth of drawers to install on a tight budget. In that case, the perfect solution would be a slide that offers a respectable weight rating and good performance for a price that won’t break the bank. Blum’s Epoxy Coated Low Profile Slides are definitely on the more affordable end of the spectrum, but how well do they really work? Without a flaw, apparently. Reading the customer reviews, you’d find everything from the approval of pros and people accustomed to more expensive slides, to reports of easy installation from less experienced woodworkers, to installation tips and advice on building pullouts:

"Having been in the cabinet industry in the past, have used these glides many times. I did a couple of drawer sections for a friend's business. The glides worked as usual, perfectly, and of course the price makes it so as you can and will take on the project."

Michael Skinner, from Minersille , UT

"...These slides are great. I have used much more expensive higher load rating slides before and was not as happy as I am with these ones. I was delighted to see that they came with screws. I have 8 drawers total and they all work silky smooth. Thanks for the great products Rockler!"

Steven Dyndiuk, from Mariaville, ME

"The drawer slides are smooth, quiet, and self-closing. I am no expert, but I just followed the easy installation instructions and they work perfectly. I mean, what good is a nightstand if the drawers don't work. The slides are the finishing touch. I will always use these slides for all my drawer making projects, simply because they're fool-proof."

Mack Hall, from Enterprise, AL

"Used these slides to make pullout trays for a new vanity rather than order them with the cabinet. Cost of 5 slides was less than one tray from cabinet mfg. Was able to use them with rear support brackets I had on hand from another co. They fit perfectly.
 
"I have added pullout trays to several base cabinets and wouldn't go back to fixed shelves for anything. Well worth the effort to add. The trays are simple to make - 1/2" solid or plywood sides 2" high with a 1/4" plywood bottom. Make width 1" narrower than width of face frame opening and length 2" less than depth from face to cabinet back. Attach front of slide to edge of face frame. Add brackets to attach slide to cabinet back."

D A Tiede, from Glen Carbon, ILLINOIS

"This is an excellent product and it works exactly as advertised."

Henry Sullivan, from Rio Rancho, NM

You get the idea.

In our opinion, customer reviews are among the most valuable sources of information about the tools, equipment and supplies we offer, and we’re happy to see their numbers growing every day.  Now, with our “Top-Rated Products” tab, we’ve added a quick and easy route to the products our customers appreciate the most. It’s a great way to zero in on exactly what you need and find field-tested products that will do exactly what you want.

Beginning with a fairly uncommon application, at Rockler, you now have two choices for cutting cove and bead, or “canoe” joints, the standard joinery method for constructing (you guessed it) canoes, and a great one for any staved construction forming a curved shape. Typically, canoe joint bits come in a set – one for the cove and one for the bead. The new Rockler canoe joint bit, on the other hand, incorporates both the bead and cove profile into a single bit, a configuration that we believe is unique. It’s a simple modification that allows you to make both of the necessary cuts without time-consuming bit changes. It costs less than a set, and gives you the unexpected bonus of increasing your decorative edge bit collection with the handsome cove and bead profile the bit produces when the entire height of the cutters are used.

We’ve also considerably fleshed-out our cabinet door making bit selection with new stile and rail bits and sets, and several new raised panel bits. Along with a full range of profiles – ogee, bevel, traditional, round-edge, bead, cove and so forth – you’ll find a number of stile and rail bit configurations and other options at your disposal. We’ve added a range of cabinetry bits from Freud, including several money-saving stile and rail / raised panel bit sets. We’ve also added a center-bearing stile and rail set and reversible stile and rail bit to the Rockler line. In the raised panel bit department, you’ll now find just about anything you could ask for, including all of the most common profiles in vertical and horizontal configurations.

The breadth of the selection means that you can put together raised panel door in just about any way you could imagine. Top-bearing matched stile and rail sets are factory-ground for a perfect cope-to-profile match, and because they cut the entire profile, including the front edge of the sticking and stub tenon, they ensure a clean, consistent profile and a perfectly matched cut depth. Using the sticking bit’s top bearing, you can even follow an arched top door template and end up with a perfect, clean curved profile without having to go the extra step of smoothing out a band-saw cut with a flush trim bit beforehand.

Or you might prefer a center-bearing stile and rail bit configuration. Matched center-bearing sets have the advantage of preserving the exact overall dimensions of the stock; the pilot bearing rides along the edge of sticking and the ends of the rails, making it impossible to accidentally change the width of the stock or the length of carefully dimensioned rails in the milling process. Reversible bits are another center-bearing configuration bit and popular among budget conscious woodworkers. A few minutes changing the cutter configuration is, for many, a very reasonable tradeoff for the affordability of a single-bit set-up.

Other frame and panel bit options include Amana’s popular In-Stile and Rail System, which allows incredible flexibility in a two bit set, a dedicated glass panel door stile and rail set from Freud, the choice between arguably safer vertical raised panel bits, more versatile horizontal raised panel bits, and the ultimate in router table panel raising, raised panel bits with backcutters.

We’ve zeroed in on common router bits, too. We’ve added more sizes of double-flute straight bits, more mortising bits, more spiral bit options, stagger straight bits (for fast cutting in a variety of materials) and more flush trim bits. With bits designed for plunge cutting deep mortises (up-cut spiral bits) bits designed to cut a clean top edge (down-cut spiral and shear flush trim bits) bits designed to leave both edges clean (spiral double-compression bits) and bits designed for just about every straight-edged cutting possible, we feel certain that we have grooving, trimming, dadoing  and rabbeting covered exceptionally well.

You’ll find more molding bits, including and expanded selection of crown molding bits and industry standard molding profiles, a broad selection of everyday decorative bits covering ogee, cove and bead profiles, and more table, drawer and door edge bits. We’ve added specialized bits and sets for wainscoting and V-panels, bits designed for solid surface materials, more joinery bits - the list (really) goes on and on. 

In short, we know that routers are in league with table saws and band saws as the most valuable tools in woodworking, but to get the most out of them, you need access to a good selection of bits. Over the past few months, we’ve made a priority of transforming a very good router bit selection into an unbeatable one. There are more bits to come, but we think we're getting very close.

What makes this particular pile of lumber so inspirational isn’t just that it’s cut from a prized and not all that readily available species, but the fact that it comes from one of the most amazing trees any of us have ever seen. It was huge, as you can clearly see. Even more importantly, the wood is figured in a both uncommon and beautiful pattern that Rocky Mehta of West Penn Hardwoods – who brought the opportunity to our attention and was a key figure in seeing the project through – has aptly dubbed “curly waterfall”.  Once it’s shined up, this rippling, undulating pattern adds appreciable depth and visual interest to the subtle range of reddish browns and purple veining that even a “run of the mill” piece of Bubinga brings to the table.

Bubinga (Guibourtia Tessmanni or Guibourtia Demeusei) is an extremely dense, stiff wood that resists denting, takes stain well, and finishes beautifully. Rotary cut veneer form the species, known as Kevasingo, is highly esteemed and exhibits a wild, swirling, veined grain pattern. Bubinga lumber isn’t widely know for its exciting figure  (this stuff is definitely an exception) but is valued nonetheless for its other fine qualities and is typically used to make decorative pieces ranging from furniture to knife handles. It works and saws well, but is a little on the mineral-intensive side, so decent carbide tooling for power tools and a willingness to sharpen hand tools is advised. The tree itself likes things wet, and prefers rain-saturated forests, where it can reach a height of 130 to 150 feet with boles of up to 70 feet before the first limb.

Now, you too can have your very own piece of this-one-of a-kind tree. Curly Waterfall Bubinga lumber is available in 4/4 thickness (lumber lingo for 1”) in widths ranging from 6” to 14” (depending on availability) and lengths from 20” to 60”. Order as much as you’d like, but do it soon. There’s a pretty good-sized stack down there, but it’s not unlimited, and the interest is likely to keep going strong. Or consider this option: as you might expect from tree of this magnitude, there are a number of impressively large slabs on the pile, and they’re available individually. Just about any one would make a knockout desk, conference table, bar, or anything that calls for a single very large piece of lumber and a decided “wow” factor.  If you’ve got an important commission on the horizon, or just want to pop for a piece of wood the likes of which neither you nor anyone you know has ever seen, just call 1-800-279-4441 and ask for a quote.

There’s just one more thing: you might notice on your way through the checkout that this unique load of lumber is priced a tad bit higher than your typical piece of – oh, say – red oak. But it doesn’t look like red oak either, and nothing else like it is likely to come along anytime soon. And unlike most other lumber deals, it does come with one unexpected bonus: the feeling that you’ve done something meaningful to help ensure that your kids, grandkids, or whoever else you’d like to see happy in future generations, will have the opportunity to work with and enjoy a rich variety of lumber. Rockler is donating 10 percent of the proceeds from every piece sold to the Nature Conservancy’s Adopt an Acre program. So far, though, it seems that most people have found the expense well worth it. At least that’s what we gather from Curly Waterfall Bubinga customer reviews like these:

WOW!!! What a beautiful piece of wood. I showed my husband the article in Woodworkers Journal about the Bubinga, his reply "go buy some!", so I did. I wanted small pieces for pen making, little did I realize the cost. After turning 2 cross cut pieces of the Bubinga I realized the price was cheap in relation to the amazing beauty of this truly "Once in a lifetime " piece of wood. Unfortunately, when it's gone it is gone......I still want some small cutoffs guys!!!

Submitted by Debra White, from Las Cruces, NM

This is expensive wood, now comes the "but" it has to be one of the most beautiful pieces I've seen. I got two 60" and one 30" boards. They were packaged very well. On a scale of 1 to 5 I would rate these a 6 and shipping a 5. This is truly a once in a lifetime chance. 

Submitted by Tom Yost, from Fremont, OH

I ordered a 12 inches by 48 inches 5/4 piece of the curly waterfall bubinga on my first order. I was very impressed not only with the figure but also with the way in which it was milled perfectly. It was dead flat without a hint of a bow, twist,etc. I was so pleased that I immediately ordered 4 more pieces 8 inches by 48 inches 4/4 thick before the supply was exhausted. Once again, all four pieces were perfect. Thank you for offering such high quality and unique wood to those of us who aren't professional woodworkers. Please be on the lookout for similar quality wood in other species.

Submitted by Clinton A. Netherland M.D., from Bastrop, LA

Measuring height is one of the most common and difficult to perform measuring tasks in woodworking. Everything form quickly ripping out a rabbet in a piece of stock to getting the cope and sticking cut on a frame and panel door to match requires an accurate judgment of the height of a blade or bit. But surprisingly, most woodworkers don’t own a single tool that’s well suited for this crucial purpose. New from Rockler, the Digital Height Gauge is.  In fact, it’s designed specifically with the height measuring needs of woodworkers in mind.

The Digital Height Gauge offers a couple of key improvements over the usual method of balancing the blade of combination square on the tip of a saw blade or bit, or simply using a steel rule and your eyeball. For one thing, it takes all of the guesswork out of actually reading the measurement. The gauge offers up an easy to read display of the height in decimal form, with an accuracy of +/- .001”. The gauge can be zeroed out to the surface to the tool with a press of a button. Every time you use it, you’ll be sure of getting an accurate, uncorrupted reading.

But every digital measuring tool does that. What takes the Digital height gauge beyond the now-common digital caliper as a height measuring instrument is its physical design. With its heavy steel foot, the gauge will rest flat on the surface of the tool of its own accord - which means that you’ll be able to concentrate on other things, like judging when you have the tip of a table saw blade tooth positioned at top dead center, or simply reaching under your router table with both hands to raise the bit. The foot is heavy enough, in fact, that along with the option of presetting the height and bringing the bit or blade up to meet the gauge, you can rest the gauge’s blade on the tip of the tool and raise both until gauge reads out the correct height.

The gauge’s reach is another handy feature. One of the main drawbacks of other height measuring methods is they make it difficult to measure based on the guaranteed flat permanent surface of the tool - a much more reliable reference point than a table saw throat plate or router table insert. With the digital height gauge, you can take a measurement based on a surface that’s a couple inches away from the blade or bit – in other words, base your measurement on the surface that’s actually supporting the workpiece.

Getting things to end up in exactly the same (correct) spot on a number of parts is another of woodworking’s most common measuring challenges. It doesn’t take long for most woodworkers to learn that when it comes to repetitive measuring – cutting a number of parts to the same length, drilling holes that have to be in the same spot on multiple parts, stopped cuts on multiples, etc. – hauling out a tape measure and marking off each and every one isn’t way to go. It’s almost always much more accurate and efficient to take the time to set up a jig or stop or some other type of auxiliary piece of equipment that essentially “does the measuring for you”. That way, you only have to measure once – when you set up.

For length stops – one of the most common repetitive measuring aids – there’s an even easier method: give the tool its own measuring device. We’ve all seem this in action. Every table saw has a measuring scale for fence settings. But where do you get the necessary equipment? Right here at Rockler – and you have a couple of options. Self-Adhesive Measuring Tape, sold in 6 foot lengths, is perfect for taking quick and easy measurements on a chop saw or radial arm fence. With both left-to-right and right-to-left number orientations available, you’ll be able to line up and set a stop for both right and left hand cuts in a couple of seconds.

New in the last couple of weeks, the 18” Measuring Kit for Jigs gives you the same convenient on-the-tool measuring set up, with the added accuracy afforded by an adjustable positioning cursor. The kit includes three each of left-to-right and right-to-left measuring tapes in 18” lengths and two cursors. It’ ideal for the drill press, where repetitive positioning is practically the rule, and also great for stopped cuts on a router table, band saw or table saw. The measuring kit also makes a nice added touch to a shop built crosscut sled or miter gauge fence, and will also work very well as a length stop positioning system for a number of with a number aftermarket miter gauges. For t-slotted models, like the Rockler Sure Loc, just add a square scrap of wood a T-bolt and a knob and you’re all set for accurate, quick and easy repetitive length cuts.

Measuring tools seem to be undervalued in woodworking - that’s why we mention them so often. In truth, the investment in a few tools and gadgets that help make measuring reliable and easy can have a surprising impact on both the quality and speed of your work. Building up a measuring toolkit is also one of the most affordable ways to bring your work to the next level. (You can have all of the tools mentioned above for less than you spend on a couple of basic router bits.) If you’re one of the many woodworkers who get by on a standard tape measure and a single (reasonably square) square, we urge you to take a look at what you’re missing in the world of marking and measuring. And while you’re there, take the time to read through a few customer reviews and see how much these sometimes overlooked tools mean to woodworkers who’ve seen the light.

"Does anybody have any instructions or ideas on how to make and glue up raised panel doors with mitered corners?"

Here are a few thoughts:

If you are planning to make raised panel doors with mitered corners, a good place to start might be with asking yourself why. Most often, raised panel door frames are put together using a “cope and stick” joint. There are good reasons to consider doing things that way, instead of using miters. Most notably, a cope and stick joint is easier to make. With a router table, a “stile and rail” bit set and a little care, you can be virtually assured of a good joint appearance, and moreover, you can make the parts for several doors in a fairly short amount of time. A cope and stick joint also makes it possible to trim the door after it’s assembled – you can take a little off of one edge, or trim the door slightly out of square to match an out-of-whack cabinet opening without any noticeable change in the appearance of the door or the joint.

Still, in certain situations a miter is the better choice. Door frames with elaborate profiles - or anything but a mostly flat face - won’t lend themselves to cope and stick joinery. And while there are a number of stile and rail router bit profiles available, the selection by no means endless. Since a mitered door frame does not require a perfectly-matching edge profile and cope cut, you’re free to experiment with a greater variety of decorative treatments. Or, you may just prefer the appearance of a mitered joint, and consider the extra care required worth the bother (an equally valid reason, as far as we’re concerned). Whatever the deciding factor, mitered joints have a few basic requirements.

As with any frame and panel construction, materials make a huge difference. For a door frame with mitered corners, it is especially important to choose flat, straight and properly dried stock. It is extraordinarily difficult to make a reasonable flat frame with four tight miters out of even slightly crooked lumber. Mitered joints are a little fussy when it comes to moisture content, as well. To avoid miters that pull apart on one end or the other, the stile and rail material should be dried to a moisture content that is as close as possible to a state of equilibrium with the environment where it will be used. If possible, consider using more dimensionally stable quarter-sawn or rift-sawn stock for the stiles and rails.

To get started, you’ll still need to cut the panel groove on the inside edge of the stock, of course, and any decorative profiles. Once that’s accomplished and the panels are made, the next step is to plan and execute the joints. Mitered joints require reinforcement, especially when they’re used for something that’s likely to take a little banging around – like a cabinet door. There are a number of ways to reinforce a miter joint; a particularly fitting method for this application is to use a loose tenon. A loose tenon joint is easy to assemble, and will provide more than adequate strength for virtually any cabinet door. A loose tenon joint can be easy to make, as well - provided you’re willing to invest in one of a couple of specialized tools. 

If you’re feeling cashy, there simply isn’t a slicker, easier way to cut a loose tenon mortise than the Festool Domino System. It’s a considerable investment, but a worthy one if what you need or want is to make rock-solid joints in just about any type of construction in the same amount of time that it takes to pop in a couple of biscuits. For a little more work and lot less money, the BeadLock Jig will give you the same results. It’s another great, all-around alternative to traditional mortise and tenon joinery, and works out especially well for anyone who has trouble justifying the expense of the Domino or other more costly jigs.

Making the eight 45 degree cuts required to make the frame can be a sticking point. It sounds easy enough, but in practice, making a frame with tight fitting miter joints can prove frustrating – to say the least. If you’ve taken the advice above and are working with straight, edge-jointed stock that is relatively free of bow and wind (twists), following a few simple suggestions is almost a guarantee of success.

Every frame that lies flat – as a door needs to – has tight, perfectly matched miters and approaches a geometrically perfect rectangle has three things going for it: opposing sides that are exactly the same length, miters that are perpendicular to the face of the material and pairs of miters that add up accurately to 90 degrees. To make a mitered frame and panel door that looks good, and lays flat on the front of the cabinet, all you have to do is make these things happen.

Getting the parts cut at the right length is an easy condition to meet. If you’re using a chop saw to cut the joints, an auxiliary fence with a makeshift length stop will do the trick. Simply cut one end of each part, measure and clamp on a length stop at the appropriate place on the auxiliary fence, and cut both of the second miters for each pair of same-length parts using the stop as a reference. The resulting stiles and rails are guaranteed to come out in pairs that are exactly the same length. On a table saw the procedure is the same, except you’ll use a miter gauge or a crosscutting jig to support auxiliary fence, the stop and the workpiece.

Miter cuts that aren’t perpendicular to the face of the material can result in noticeable gaps in the joint, or in frames that won’t lie flat. Fortunately, making cuts at a perfect right angle to the surface of a material – provided the material itself is flat - is simply a matter of accurately setting the angle of the blade. Rather than trusting the saw’s angle scale – a notoriously inaccurate method - place a square on the surface of the saw, hold it up against the blade plate, and adjust the angle of the blade until the two agree. Another approach is to use an electronic angle gauge. An electronic gauge, like the Wixey Digital Angle Gauge, will tell you in a matter of seconds that you have the blade set at a right angle – give or take a few hundredths of a degree.

Getting mitered joints to come out at a perfect 90 degrees is, for most people, the most challenging part of the procedure. But it doesn’t have to be. The important thing to note is that two adjoining miters do not need to be cut at exactly 45 degrees – although that’s a good thing to shoot for. In reality, it’s more important that the angles add up to 90 degrees. The Rockler 45 Degree Miter Sled takes advantage of this fact, and makes cutting perfect 90 degree miter joints a simple, foolproof procedure. If you’ve had trouble in the past using the “two perfect 45s” method, we urge you to take a look at how this clever, affordable jig uses the concept of complementary angles to circumvent the problem.

Once you have all of the parts ready to go, it’s a good idea to dry fit the entire assembly and make sure that all of the miters are satisfactory, the panel fits, the mortises are deep enough and in the right spot, etc. It’s also a good time to run through a checklist of the supplies you’ll need during the glue-up – clamps, glue, rags and so forth - and make sure they’re in reach. Remember that you’ll need a clamping method that applies pressure both lengthwise and widthwise. If the parts fit together perfectly, a Web Clamp will do the job. Another choice is to use a clamping arrangement that holds pipe or bar clamps at 90 degree angles to one another, such as Rockler Bench Blocks.

The great thing about learning to cut parts accurately is that when it comes time to glue up, the assembly will, in all likelihood, go together square and flat “automatically”. It’s still a good idea, however, to work on a surface that is itself as close to perfectly flat as possible. Once the clamps are tightened down, you can and check the door for flatness by sighting along its surface, and for squareness by measuring diagonally across opposing corners (the measurements should be equal). If you’ve worked carefully up to that point, the purpose in doing so will be to confirm that you’ve made your first perfect mitered raised panel door.

In the past, spray finishing was largely reserved for commercial shops with plenty of space and the deep pockets necessary to invest in state of the art equipment. But that’s rapidly changing. More and more, small professional shops and hobbyists are coming around to the fact that the there just isn’t a better way to put finish on a piece of wood. Spraying is faster, and almost always turns out a more professional-looking product. Spray finishing offers more options. Nearly any brush-able finish can be successfully sprayed. In contrast, a number of finishes that spray extremely well just aren’t designed for application by any other means. And with efficient, easy-to-master HVLP sprayers ever more affordable and readily available, spraying finish has become a cost-effective proposition for just about any woodshop.

No doubt about it: for a wide variety of wood finishes, spraying wins hands-down on just about every front. In fact, it would be an almost perfect solution, if it wasn’t for one pesky problem. Along with many advantages, spray finishing comes with a single, considerable drawback: the arduous and solvent-intensive process of cleaning guns, paint cups and pressure pots, mixing containers and strainers – often many times over before all of the stains, sealers, clear-coats, toners and whatnot are on. In fact, as any experienced spray finisher will tell you, in most cases cleaning up between different types of finish and at the end of the job takes many times longer than the actual spraying.

But remarkably, even the clean-up problem has been solved – within the past few years for industry, and just recently for everyone else. Thanks to the clever engineers at 3M, there’s a spray finish delivery system that fits almost any gun, and makes clean-up easier than washing a paintbrush. And now, through the combined efforts of 3M and Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, this once cost-prohibitive spray finishing solution is in reach for just about any woodworker. With the new EZ-Clean™ Spray System, for the first time you can have the most useful components of 3M’s hugely successful PPS™ paint preparation system in a small, affordable package – perfectly sized for the needs and means of one-off professional shops and weekend woodworkers.

What is EZ-Clean? In essence, it’s a unique delivery system that eliminates needless inefficiencies in the spray finishing process. In terms of basic components, the system consists of a clear hard-plastic mixing/application cup, disposable plastic cup liners, disposable lids equipped with a built-in strainer, and a screw-on collar to hold the lid, cup and liner together. A special adaptor fits the components to the sprayer, where they replace the supply cup that came with the gun. The system also includes a couple of handy auxiliary items: plugs used to cap-off the disposable lids for short-term storage of finish, or for mixing finishes that require “shaking”, and a mix ratio film that slips between the liner and the cup to aid in accurate thinning and mixing of two-part finishes.

This simple arrangement allows the finisher to measure and mix a finish and spray it on using a single, disposable container. The end result is a negligible amount of clean-up. Apart from the few seconds it takes to rinse out the tip of the gun, in fact, the entire cleaning process consists of unscrewing the collar and dropping lid and liner in the trash. Very slick indeed, compared to the usual routine of mixing the finish in one container, straining it into the gun’s supply cup, cleaning the mixing container, cleaning the strainer, spraying the finish, cleaning the cup, cleaning the gun, and repeating the process not only when you’re done, but every time you change finishes.  It’s such a striking contrast, in fact, that everyone from furniture and automotive manufacturers to aerospace equipment makers have happily adopted industrial version of the system, and continue to report huge labor savings and solvent use reductions on the order of 70 percent.

Along with obvious advantages centering on the cleaning process – a healthier work environment, less time wasted on cleaning up, and far less solvent consumption – the EZ-Clean system offers appreciable benefits for the spraying process itself. EZ-Clean is a “closed” delivery system, meaning that once the air is bled from the liner – which is accomplished by pulling the gun trigger for a few seconds – only finish is available to the gun. With no outside air available to the feed system, the gun can be held upside-down, sideways or in any orientation - the liner will still collapse as intended and supply an even flow of finish to the tip. Difficult spray angles aren’t a problem, in other words. The entire inside of a cabinet, for example, can be sprayed without having to flip it over to spray the top.

The complete absence of air in the delivery system also helps as you near the end of the finish supply. There’s no chance that the gun will start sucking air when you run low on liquid and ruin a coat with a sudden blast of un-atomized splatter. And the fact that no outside contaminants can enter the system makes for almost perfectly clean finishing, and a virtual absence of inclusions. Each and every time, you’ll start with a fresh, clean container; one that’s equipped with its own integrated strainer and ready to catch anything that might be lurking in the finish. 

Still another attractive quality of the EZ-Clean™ Spray System is its almost universal applicability. Adapters are available to fit a huge range of existing sprayers from manufacturers including DeVilbiss, Binks, SATA and many, many others. The system works equally well with gravity and siphon fed guns, and even offers a kit for pressure fed guns. The wide range of applications works out great both for shops that already spray finish, and for woodworkers who are getting ready to take the plunge. A quick look through the EZ-Clean “Adapter Reference Chart” will, in all likelihood, turn up any sprayer that you already own, or a gun for any type of system you might want to buy.

The EZ-Clean system also offers a number of options when it comes to finish capacity. Starter kits, which include the mixing cup and collar, the mix ratio film, and enough liners, caps and plugs to get you started, are available in three sizes. For most projects, the 22 oz. Medium Starter Kit is a perfect choice. A good balance between of weight and capacity, the medium kit will supply enough finish to put a few coats on a good sized project, with no stopping to reload. For extra-large jobs – like an entire set of cabinets – the Large Starter Kit, with its 28 oz. capacity, will keep you going longer and help you save on liners and caps.  The diminutive 6 oz. Mini Starter Kit makes for a lightweight, agile set-up, and is the most economical per batch of the three sizes. The Mini Kit is perfect for small jobs, like touch-ups, toners and small-scale projects.

Whichever starter kit (or kits) you choose, the permanent components – the mixing cup, mix ratio film and the collar - are a one time buy. After that, you’ll be able to replenish the disposable elements at a price that’s easy to swallow. A refill kit for each size is available, and contains a manageable 10 each of the disposable lids and liners, and 5 lid plugs.

If you’re getting ready to set aside your brushes and pads in favor of the speed and consistently good results you’d get from a sprayer, it’s worth factoring in the relatively insignificant cost of the EZ-Clean™ Spray System – a cost that you’ll easily make up in the long run with savings on solvents, strainers and rags. If you do, you won’t have to experience the drudgery and potential heath risks involved in cleaning your equipment the old fashioned way even once. And if you already own a sprayer, we encourage you to check and see if there’s an adapter and kit that’s right for your gun – unless of course you really like spending significant amounts of time needlessly elbows deep in thinner.

As all pen turners know, a successful project starts with an accurately drilled blank. And for that, you need some way to hold the pen blank securely in a vertical position on the drill press, and accurately center it under the bit. Typically, this involves some sort of shop-built jig and/or elaborate clamping arrangement; a workable solution, but not always the most convenient or reliable.

The Pen Press/Drilling Jig, on the other hand, is made specifically for the purpose of holding a pen blank under the drill press quill, and designed to make lining things up as easy as possible. Notches in both jaws hold the blank at the center of the jig, and in a guaranteed perpendicular-to-the-table position. Along with that, the jaws move toward the center of the jig, instead of a single jaw moving toward a fixed end. Together, the notched jaws and their self-centering action make lining up the bore a one shot deal. Whether you’ve got one blank to drill, or a stack of fifty, once the jig is centered and secured to the drill press table, you can rest assured that each and every bore will be exactly centered, regardless of slight variances in the size of the blanks. The jig even comes with three sacrificial over-drill blanks that fit into the base of the unit and prevent blow-out at the exit point of the bore. 

With the pen barrel turned, sanded to perfection, finished and shined up with your favorite polish, you’re ready to press in the tip and the transmission. Here, the down and dirty method is to use a bench vice, or even a clamp. The problem with doing things this way is that a small amount of pressure in the wrong direction can turn a delicate, thin-walled barrel instantly into piece of scrap. The Pen Press helps out by providing an easy way to center the pressure accurately, and to apply it at a steady, consistent rate. Both of the jig’s jaws have centering countersinks, which make it just about impossible to crack the frail edges of the barrel with off center pressure, or to install parts at the wrong depth.

Going beyond the basics, a couple of easy customizations can turn the out-of-the-box Pen Press into a full-on pen turning station. The jig comes pre-drilled for easy attachment to a custom sub-base. If you make the base close in size to your drill press table, clamping it in place with a couple of C-clamps will only take a few minutes.

But for proud owners of the Rockler Drill Press Table, there’s an even slicker solution. With a couple T-blots and knobs, you can take advantage of the T-tracks in the drill press table surface, and make aligning the jig a ridiculously simple matter. You’ll only need to get the pen press aligned once – when you attach it to the sub-base. After that, the T-tracks and a couple of registration marks on the sub-base will make setting up to drill blanks will be an easily repeatable, two second process.

While you’re at it, take note that the jig’s base was left purposely left hollow to leave room for a shop-made drawer. If you can tear your self away from your pen projects for an hour or so, building a drawer to fit the jig will give you a handy place to keep all of your easy-to-misplace pen parts, mandrels and related equipment.

If you’re a seasoned pen turner, we think you’ll see instantly how the Rockler Pen Press/Drilling Jig can help you breeze through some of the craft’s less engaging tasks, and let you get on to honing your skills on a selection of pen turning blanks that would take years to work through. (If you haven’t been here for a while, take a minute to check out our greatly expanded pen blank offerings. You’ll find some great new hardwoods along with a number of new man-made materials, some of which is pretty far out there: resin encased Grape Nuts®, anyone?) 

If, on the other hand, you’re just an interested passerby, let us say this: pen making is one of the most popular and easy to master entry points into the world of turning. It’s an affordable, compact and quiet hobby that yields beautiful, finished results in hours - not days or weeks. If you’re in the market for a great pastime, but short on time, space or the luxury of an unlimited woodworking budget, pen turning could be just the thing. Take a look through our complete selection of mini lathes, turning tools, blanks, and pen kits to get an idea of the possibilities. Then check out our pen turning video for a look at just how easy it is to get started.

 

Customer Rating: "A bunch of us are using these to build our TOS [The Original Series] Star Trek replica command chairs.......the swivel return works perfect, thanks for a great product! (Photo shows chair in progress of being made)" [Thanks to Bruce Boyd, from Roseburg, OR]

It hits on something that we think everyone knows deep down in their heart: when it comes to intergalactic security, the hardware you choose really does make a difference. As a matter of fact, it has us thinking about our 3 Degree Tilt Swivel ad copy. Over the past couple days we’ve been tossing around a few possibilities...

"Whether you’re struggling with a difficult moral conundrum, maneuvering into battle, or just taking a casual cruse to Orgellius II for some badly needed shore leave, you’ll be glad you chose the Deluxe 3 Degree Tilt Swivel from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. With its built-in back tilt, this starship-class swivel will provide the extra comfort you need, and help you stay relaxed, calm and focused under the most demanding circumstances. You’ll appreciate the smooth ball bearing swivel action when you swing around to accept a fresh cup of coffee from a passing yeoman, or join in a little good-natured sparring with your fellow officers. And when things heat up, the 3 degree tilt swivel won’t let you down. With a squadron of warbirds peppering your forward deflector, the last thing you need is command chair swivel failure. Not a problem, with the 3 degree tilt swivel: its rugged 13 gauge steel construction will stand up to the most violent lurching to and fro and still operate as smoothly and effortlessly as the day you took it out of the box. The swivel’s spring-activated “home” position memory mechanism will keep you front and center for all the action..."

On the most basic level, the best way to get drawer slides to function correctly is to work toward perfect drawer travel geometry right from the start. In other words, take care to build cabinets and drawer boxes as square as possible, and in the correct proportions with one another. While you’re at it, get to know the slides you are planning to use, and do everything in your power to build cabinets that make installing them as easy as possible. That way, when it comes time to install the drawers, all you’ll have to do is get the slides installed straight, and in the right vertical location.

Even with the most careful planning and building, getting the slides in the right spot and level can be a challenge. The precise, mechanical nature of the average drawer slide doesn’t allow much margin for error, and while most drawer slides are adjustable in some measure, it’s not often by very much, and not necessarily in every direction. That’s where a slide jig can really help out. In fact, if the raw materials – the drawers and cabinets – are as straight and square, a simple, affordable jig can mean the difference between several awkward adjustment cycles and getting the slide in the exactly correct position on the first try.

The Blum Slide Jig Gun, made for use with the extremely popular Blum Epoxy Coated Low Profile Slide, is an excellent example. The slide gun holds the cabinet-half of the slide in a perfectly level position, and makes it easy to keep it there while you either screw it in place or drill a pilot hole. The Rockler Drawer Slide Jig-It works on a similar principle, and makes level installation of a wide range of popular Accuride ball bearing slides - as well as Blum’s low profile series – a simple task. Each of the Jig-It slide jigs is laid out and drilled with mounting hole locations for an entire series of slides. Used in combination with a self-centering drill bit, the Jig-It makes drilling perfectly aligned mounting holes fast and simple – especially when it comes to difficult-to-reach screws toward the back of the cabinet.

For face frame cabinets, another common slide-mounting challenge is bringing the slide out flush with the face frame opening. The most typical solution is to bring the cabinet wall out flush with the drawer opening. This is a common practice among pros and hobbyists alike, and is usually accomplished by simply ripping down material to match the distance between the edge of the face frame and the inside wall of the cabinet, and then attaching it in strips at the drawer slide locations.

A slicker version of the same approach is to use pre-made Face Frame Spacers. Made for Blum slides - but a workable solution for a variety of others, including Accuride ball bearing slides – face frame spacers come in three base thicknesses, each of which can be further adjusted in 1/16” increments using an included set of shims. This helps not only when it comes to getting the right spacer thickness, but can also provide a quick and easy solution for a cabinet that’s a little out of whack and needs to have slides installed on a slight diagonal. The spacers come complete with Euro screws and alignment pins for 32mm hardware attachment systems, but also can be simply screwed to the cabinet wall. Either way, the end result is less messing around with getting spacer stock ripped to right thickness, and a little more polished final look.

Another option for the rear end of the slide is to use a slide socket. Blum Mounting Sockets, for example, hold the back end of 230m series slides securely in position on the cabinet back, and allow for minor adjustments to the position of the slide once it’s installed. A slide socket is also one of the simplest solutions for situations where there isn’t a cabinet wall to rely on, such as a cabinet with two drawer stacks and no partition in between. Remember, though, that the cabinet back has to be able to take a screw, and if you’re planning to use 1/4” material for the back, you’ll have to add a block of thicker material wherever your have a socket.

Of course, once you have the slides installed, there may be a thing or two left to tackle. So, while we’re on the subject, here are a few of words of advice on couple of related challenges: getting drawer fronts attached – if you’ve built separate drawer boxes and fronts – and on getting the pulls on straight and in a hurry.

One of the most common bottlenecks in the drawer installation process comes when it’s time to attach drawer fronts to drawer boxes, and get them lined up in the correct position. Here, simply using the right screws can have a huge effect. Washer head screws have a large, low profile head designed to cover oversized clearance holes in the drawer box. In other words, they give you the opportunity to fine tune the position of the drawer front once it’s installed, which turns out to be much easier than trying to fasten them in the perfect spot on the first try. All you have to do is get the drawer front within 1/16” or so of the perfect position on the first attempt. After that, you’ll be able to tweak the drawer front into the right spot with out having to remove and reattach it in the process.

Washer head screws can so greatly simplify the process of attaching drawer fronts that you may, in fact, have the energy left over to move right on the drawer pulls – in which case, you’ll be looking for an equally expedient method for this final stage. Once again, a simple jig can make all the difference. The Rockler Deluxe Drawer Pull Jig-It will help you mark off hole locations in about half the time it takes with a tape measure. The jig’s measuring scale makes it easy to find the center of the drawer, and a side stop block makes repeating the process on same-sized drawers instantaneous. The jig’s front surface is drilled with pre-set spacing for the most common drawer pull bore dimensions, so you won’t have to grapple with the usual arithmetic exercise of subtracting the bore width from the drawer front width and dividing by two, etc. In fact, the Drawer Pull Jig-It makes messing up, or taking a long time to install knobs and pulls hard to do. Used together with a few other simple drawer installation helping hands, it may even lead to thoughts like, “You know, this isn’t so bad after all."

“Planning” is without a doubt the single most important word in a cabinet installer’s vocabulary. For the best chance at success, you'll need to have an adequate plan for everything from plumbing rough-ins to under-cabinet lighting. In fact, before you start screwing the cabinets in place, it’s a good idea to know the installation space on an intimate level. Get out a tape measure, level and angle finder and spend some time mapping out the location of humps and sags in the floor and walls, the direction and degree of any slope in the floor or the tip in the walls and irregularities in the angles where walls meet.

The general rule of thumb is this: cabinets are straight; rooms are – by and large - somewhat crooked. The cabinet installer’s job is to find the best possible compromise between these two incompatible conditions. With an adequate understanding of the installation space, you’ll avoid unpleasant surprises and know ahead of time where to shim - and possibly even where to fudge a little on plumb and level - to make the best possible resolution of conflicts between the shape of the cabinets and the shape of the room.

With a thorough plan in hand, layout lines and stud locations marked off, and all of the measurements double checked, all that’s left is the actual work. Where should you begin? There are many strategies that could work well. In general, it makes the most sense to start a run of cabinets at one end, and work your way to the other. Runs that terminate in a corner of the room should almost always be started in the corner. If both upper and lower cabinets are involved, most installers would suggest starting with the uppers. That way, you won’t have to lean in over the deeper lower cabinets while you install the uppers, and you won’t run the risk of damaging the lowers in the process.

To get started, you’ll need some way of holding the cabinets in place while you level them and screw them down. Unless you have a crew at your disposal – or a couple of very willing and fairly strong friends – you’ll need a mechanical means of support. The T-Jak Support System is made for the purpose, and has a number of advantages over the typical quick and dirty shop-built cabinet jack. A quick release height adjustment mechanism makes it easy to get the support plate near the correct height, and the fine tuning height adjustment knob makes it just a simple to get your cabinets positioned exactly on the line. The T-Jak Support System also has a sturdy, stable upper and lower support plate, both of which are pre-drilled with screw holes in case you want to add your own larger or “custom” support.

The fastening process itself is fairly straightforward. You’ll need to attach the cabinets securely to the wall studs and to each other. If you’re working by yourself or with minimal help, a sensible approach is to begin by getting one cabinet shimmed, lined up as well as possible and screwed to the wall (remembering that mistakes in the position of the first cabinet tend to multiply as you add more cabinets to the run). Then move the second cabinet into position and attach it to first cabinet, before firmly attaching it to the wall. Doing things this way makes it easier to get the highly visible joint between cabinets to come out tight and accurately aligned.

Getting the cabinets attached to one another correctly, unfortunately, turns out to be one of the more demanding tasks in the installation process. To get a good joint, it is absolutely necessary to clamp the cabinets together in exactly the right position before driving in the screws. Doing so can be something of a challenge. For face frame cabinets, a set of Cabinet Claw Clamps is hands-down the best helper. These specially designed clamps hook around the back of the face frame and apply pressure both to the sides of the frames to hold them together, and to the front to bring the surfaces flush. They’re easy to operate with one hand and have the added feature of a drill guide for accurately centered pilot hole drilling.

If you’re planning to install only a few cabinets, and a set of dedicated cabinet clamps seems like an extravagance, hand screw clamps are the next best thing. This woodshop standard has a million uses, and works better for cabinet installation than other types of clamp – it’s also an excellent choice for frameless cabinets. The large wooden clamping jaws are easy on the cabinet surface while still applying enough pressure hold the edges tightly together. They’re also comparatively easy to operate with one hand.

For attaching solid wood face frames to one another, a standard countersunk wood screw is perfectly acceptable. Using a Lube Finished Screw with square or square / X drive will save on fatigue and make it easier to get the screws snugged down tight. If you don’t already own one, you’ll need a countersink as well. This is another common tool – one that you’ll use time and again on other projects, so consider picking up a good one. A Rockler tapered countersink will save you the trouble of drilling separate pilot and clearance hole, and is designed to produce the cleanest possible hole edges.

For attaching frameless cabinets to one another, and for attaching cabinets to a wall, standard wood screws may not be your best bet. Today - unless you’ve built the cabinets yourself - you’ll be relying, almost certainly, on a piece of particleboard or MDF to hold your heavy cabinets and all their contents to the wall, and for frameless cabinets, to hold one cabinet to the next. These man-made materials have many fine properties – unfortunately, standing up well to the stress produced by the head of a typical countersunk screw is not among them. In fact, it is surprisingly easy to inadvertently drive a typical wood screw well past the surface of these materials, leaving an ugly, ragged hole and a seriously compromised attachment point in your wake.

The large, flat head of a Powerhead screw distributes force much more sensibly for these types of materials, all but eliminating the chance of a pull-through. As an added feature, they have cutting nibs on the underside of their heads. When the screws are driven with an impact driver, the nibs cut away enough material to sink the screw flush with the surface of the material. The head can then be covered with a 9/16” self-stick screw cap made of either white melamine or wood veneer for a clean, finished look. For an even more refined look, the Custom Screw Cap Punch Kit lets you make screw caps out of any material you desire. The handy stopped counter sink bit that comes with the kit pre-drills a counter bore that puts the cap exactly flush with the surface of the material for practically undetectable cabinet fastening.

Of course, getting the cabinets set isn’t the entire battle. You’ll still have work to do installing trim and toe kick, choosing and installing knobs and pulls, installing lighting and so forth. But with a tight, clean installation to work from, and the bulk of the work behind you, the finishing touches will feel like a breeze.

None of it is very hard; it just seems to wear you down: The doors have to correspond to the dimensions cabinet openings, of course, and whether it’s an overlay or a reveal, it has to be factored in. With that done, and the overall dimensions of the doors recorded, you can move on to calculating the length of the rails. To do that, simply subtract twice the width of the stiles from the overall width of the door, but don’t forget that the twice the length of the overlapping stub tenon has to be added back in. Once that’s accomplished, you’re ready for the panels. In length, they need to equal the length of the stiles, minus twice the width of the rails, plus twice the depth of the panel groove, minus 1/16” or so for a mechanical margin of error. In width, they simply need to be the overall length of the rails, including the stub tenons, minus a 1/16” or so – unless it’s the middle of winter and the humidity in your shop is hovering around 20 percent, in which case you’d better take off a little more to allow for expansion – but just from the width… And so on.

It’s a dismal way to kill a couple of hours. And still, you’ll probably need to spend even more time calculating stock requirements before you can head to the lumberyard. The entire process can be an invitation to make a costly error, a great thing to never have to do again.

And for a modest investment in the Woodshop Calculator, you won’t. This straightforward software takes door opening sizes, overlay dimensions and stile widths, and spits out a complete cut list, in fractional or decimal form, for doors with up to doors four panels each. Even better, the program includes a handy board foot calculator to help you figure costs and buy the right amount of lumber. Even if you rarely make cabinet doors, we’ll bet the Woodshop Calculator will earn its keep in time saved and frustration averted. At least, that’s the impression we get from customer reviews like these:

"The Woodshop Calculator CD-ROM is an amazing product it makes figuring door sizes so easy! It also makes figuring the lumber cost very simple!"

"This software works wonderfully and accurately. All you have to do is measure the actual cabinet opening, tell the software your desired rail and stile width and door overhang and it calculates exactly the rail and stile length and panel size and prints out a cut list for each piece. I used it to make the first two doors in my kitchen remodel project (one opening, two doors) and they matched exactly. Now on to the rest of the doors. It sure saved a lot of measuring and guessing. I highly recommend it."

"Outstanding program! I've used it for some cabinet doors in my shop. The learning curve was short and the finished product was wonderful. I don't believe the program was intended for commercial use, but it certainly would be an asset to any cabinet shop."

"The Woodshop Calculator is one of the best tools I know of. I put in all entries and doors came out perfect. I highly recommend this CD."

(Read more…)

The included dust collection port is something that most Deluxe Fence owners will probably want to buy separately, regardless what they decide about the kit. It’s designed specifically to accommodate the Deluxe Fence’s taller, more substantial aluminum primary fence, and makes catching the dust from this almost uniquely debris-intensive piece of equipment quick and tool-free. The Deluxe Dust Port also has one decided advantage over other router table ports. It has a low profile rectangular base, which means that you can use it along with the Incra Universal Positioning Jig, or any of a variety of other popular fence positioning systems. In fact, it would be worth considering no matter what Rockler fence you own. It bolts to any Rockler fence in a couple of seconds, and includes a damper mechanism that makes it easily adaptable to the Standard Fence’s shorter bit opening.

The featherboard set, however, is clearly the centerpiece of the kit. By all estimates, the common featherboard is a necessity when it comes to any router table operation that demands a high level of accuracy.  A featherboard’s spring-like fingers hold the stock in firm contact with the fence and/or the surface of the table, greatly reducing chatter and wavy, uneven cuts. This effect has the added benefit of leaving the operator free to concentrate on moving the stock at a smooth, even feed rate, which can be crucial with tear-out or burn prone wood species. A featherboard also considerably improves the safety of many router table operations. The angle of the featherboard fingers makes sliding stock in one direction fairly easy, but extremely difficult in the other. And while a featherboard does not represent a guarantee against kickback, it does greatly reduce the likelihood of sudden, unpleasant surprises.

Most experienced router table users consider downward pressure featherboards - like the two fence featherboards included in the kit - standard equipment for a good many router table cuts. Joinery cuts, like the edge profile cut on door frame stock, demand both extremely accurate and extremely consistent cut heights if the joint is to fit together correctly. A featherboard helps ensure that the stock stays flat on the surface of the table throughout the operation, and can have a surprising effect on the results of all kinds of exacting router table work.

Why does the kit include two fence featherboards? Using two featherboards – one on the in-feed and one on the out-feed side of the fence – isn’t pointless overkill. Ideally, downward pressure would be most useful directly above the bit, but in many situations, the height of the bit makes this impossible. Stationing two featherboards in close proximity on either side of the bit is the next best thing. Doing so helps keep the very end of the cut as smooth as the rest by continuing the downward pressure after the stock clears the forward featherboard. With thin stock, the second featherboard prevents the stock from flexing upward after it clears the jig, and it helps minimize the vibration and chattering that can plague cuts in narrow and thin stock.

Keeping the stock up tight against the fence is equally important; the kit takes that into account as well. The Double Featherboard included with the kit perfectly matches the purpose of the Deluxe Fence. With its higher, more rigid vertical support, the deluxe fence is designed to handle cuts that require tipping the stock up on edge, such as cutting the profile in a door panel with a vertical raised panel bit.  The stacked featherboard design applies pressure both at the base of the stock and a little ways above the bit, making it much easier to control the feed of panels, wide moldings, and anything else that needs to be run through on its edge.

In short, the Deluxe 4-Piece Router Accessory Kit will give owners of the Deluxe Router Table Fence all of the most useful auxiliary router table equipment in one money-saving package. And better, every component is designed specifically for the purpose, and for easy, no-tools-needed incorporation into the system. For everyone else: we encourage you to learn more about the Rockler Deluxe Router Fence, and what makes it one of the most popular additions to our selection of router table equipment in years.