It’s a perennial problem for woodworkers: how do you deal with projects that take finish on all surfaces? You need touch-free access to as much surface area as possible and at the same time, have to avoid such problems as picking up dust from surrounding surfaces and finish or stain seeping under the workpiece. After all of the planning, cutting, milling, fitting, gluing, sanding, etc. that goes into almost every woodworking project, most of us would do just about anything to speed through the finishing process, and above all, avoid having to back up to fix mistakes. So, while we’re all waiting for someone to come out with a finisher’s dust repelling anti-gravity machine, here are a couple of handy finishing helpers, and what our customer’s tell us about how they work.

If you work in a small shop, chances are a dedicated finishing area is simply out of the question. In fact, we’d bet most home-shop woodworkers do the lion’s share their finishing on the very same surface that they use for the dust-inducing processes that brings their projects to the finishing stage. If that’s your situation, a ten-pack of affordable Painter’s Pyramids could do wonders for the efficiency of your “finishing department”. Painter’s Pyramids elevate your projects 2 inches above the work surface, and support them on slightly rounded, non-stick, non-reactive polymer points. Improving on the common “nail board” approach, Painter’s Pyramids can be quickly arranged to provide single-point support for projects of any size (up to a load limit of 200 lbs.) and greatly speed the finishing of projects that require finishing on front and back surfaces.

In a small shop, Painter’s Pyramids let you side-step the need to cut blocks or construct a custom nail board for each one of your projects, and when you’re finished, they stack neatly in a compact arrangement until you need them again. It’s a small upgrade to your shop’s finishing equipment, but it can have a big impact on how this final stage of most projects goes. At least that’s the impression we get from our Painter’s Pyramids customer reviews:

“Absolutely great idea! Since they're symmetric, you always have a suitable point sticking up no matter how you strew them around. I threw out all of my boards with nails sticking up!”

Gnugs , from Arlington, VA

"These little things quickly become an important tool. No thinking goes in to the set up and they're easy to store when you're done. They do exactly what they are supposed to do. Very refreshing in these times! Be sure you get enough because no matter what size project you have, you're probably going to use at least three or four to make your project balance on top of the pyramids."

Jim, from Katy, TX

"Great items for spray painting small items. Using these with a lazy suzan turn-table made the job a breeze."

Guy Reece, from Spring Lake, MI

"These are handy little accessories. If you have to finish two sides of a workpiece, these allow you to cut down on the time the project takes. Basically you apply your finish to one side, then turn it over and rest the wet side on the painter's pyramids. This allows you to then do the other side and the edges without having to wait for drying time..."

Robert, from Madison, WI

Painter’s Pyramids are a handy thing to have around even if your finishing set-up is a little more sophisticated, and you spray most of your finish. But if that’s you, and cabinetmaking figures prominently in your work, there’s an even slicker way to open up one of the most common finishing bottlenecks: cabinet doors. Rockler’s own Sure Hook 360 takes advantage of the popularity of European style hinges, and the 35 mm cup hole that nearly all of them require. With one simple motion, the Sure Hook clamps into the only spot on the door that you don’t want finish – the cup bore. After that, you’re free to hang the door up and spray every surface in one shot. And when you’re finished, the Sure Hook let’s you just as easily move the door to a drying area without ever having to touch it. Like Painter’s Pyramids, the Sure Hook has been thoroughly field tested, and has passed with flying colors:

"I bought 12 but wish I had enough for all 27 doors I was making. They not only hold the doors while I sprayed they held them so I could hang them to dry side by side and not have to worry about the doors swinging into each other as my old string and screw method. "

Ralph Shields, from Lakeland, FL

"I ordered 40 of these hooks for my shop and I must say that they are worth every penny! They are easy to use and make spraying doors much easier than finishing the old way."

Rick McBride, from Greenbrier, TN

"These hooks work exactly as advertised. I purchased six of the hooks and was able to stain and poly six doors on both sides without any finger marks, no drips, no runs, just great professional looking results. The clamping action that fits in the standard 35mm pocket is sure and trust worthy and releases very easily when you are ready."

Andy Vester, from Eustis, FL

"I am building new cabinets for my kitchen remodel and bought 12 of these to hopefully speed up the process of finishing the 30 doors for the project. They worked great! In fact, I used them to finish the shelves too by putting a small screw in the shelf end and affixing it to the hanger with a piece of string."

Gary Majors, from Kansas City, MO

The Sure Hook 360 and Painter’s Pyramids are a couple of great ideas, we think, and have the added bonus of being refreshingly affordable to implement. As you’ve probably discovered, wood finishing isn’t a “detail” that has to be cleared up before you can call a project done, but instead represents a pivotal and often challenging part of the entire process. Anything that helps you get through it efficiently and successfully is more than just a luxury. And that, we’re guessing, is what makes these two inconspicuous accessories something to get excited about.

Wood filler, grain filler, wood putty – what’s it all mean? Judging by the raft of questions we field on the subject, filling wood is a source of general confusion.  Here’s a little clarification.

Wood filling can be devided into two basic tasks: filling voids – such as nail holes, chips and dents – and filling the pores of “open grained” woods, like oak and mahogany.  Fillers designed strictly for filling voids are thicker, and for one reason or another may not work well for filling grain pores – they may contain particles too large to work into miniscule grain openings, or may not be easily thinned down to a viscosity suitable for the task. Fillers designed strictly for filling grain are thinner, with a consistency often compared to pancake batter. They simply lack the “body” to fill larger voids. Some fillers can be used for both - they are thick enough to span a void, and can be thinned to fill grain pores in an entire wood surface.

For filling voids, many woodworkers swear by fillers composed of a nitrocellulose lacquer binder and wood flour (very fine wood particles). Famowood is an example – and a product that truly lives up to its name. It dries quickly, shrinks minimally, comes in a variety common wood species, and earns customer reviews like this:

“There is no substitute when it comes to the best of the best. That’s what Famo is all about. You simply will not find a better wood filler. Its ability to basically become invisible is what sets it apart from everything on the market. Nail holes vanish, slight imperfections in a mitered joint seam together...”

Wunderfil, another favorite, is a dual purpose filler. It comes in putty form, suitable for filling voids, and can be thinned with water to a consistency that works well for filling grain. It cleans up easily with water and is available in a number of colors, which can be mixed together or custom tinted to produce a perfect color match. Wunderfil is also heartily endorsed in our customer reviews:

"The absolute best filler I have used. I have only used this for damage repair so far but will be starting a project soon and using it as a grain filler. Have confidence it will work well. Nearly undetectable after being stained."

"I recently build a desk for my wife using 5/4 oak for the top. I've never used a woodgrain filler before and couldn't find any on the store shelves. Got it from Rockler, followed the directions and was very happy with the results. Showed it at my woodworkers club, Woodworkers of El Paso and was highly praised for it...thanks Rockler."

"Unquestionably the easiest filler to apply and sand I have ever used. "

(etc.)

Products designed strictly for filling grain come in two varieties: oil/varnish based and water based. Bartley Paste Wood Filler is a classic oil based grain filler, and a top choice for filling grain under oil based wood finishes. It comes in three shades and when used as correctly, will produce the perfectly flat surface necessary for a “glass-smooth” finished product. Crystalac is a water-borne grain filler, cleans up easily, works under any type of film finish, and has a unique and often desirable property: it dries water-clear.

Filling grain requires something of a “knack”, and seems to be the source of the most wood-filling confusion. But it’s not beyond the reach of anyone with average woodworking skills. As with any advanced finishing technique, a little knowledge and a practice run or two can go a long way. If you’ve never filled grain, advice from a pro – such as that found in a wood finishing book or DVD - can really flatten out the learning curve. Bob Flexner’s Understanding Wood Finishing, for example, contains a thorough discussion of various grain filling techniques that can help you choose the best method, and apply it successfully on your first try.

In the past, spray finishing was largely reserved for commercial shops with plenty of space and the deep pockets necessary to invest in state of the art equipment. But that’s rapidly changing. More and more, small professional shops and hobbyists are coming around to the fact that the there just isn’t a better way to put finish on a piece of wood. Spraying is faster, and almost always turns out a more professional-looking product. Spray finishing offers more options. Nearly any brush-able finish can be successfully sprayed. In contrast, a number of finishes that spray extremely well just aren’t designed for application by any other means. And with efficient, easy-to-master HVLP sprayers ever more affordable and readily available, spraying finish has become a cost-effective proposition for just about any woodshop.

No doubt about it: for a wide variety of wood finishes, spraying wins hands-down on just about every front. In fact, it would be an almost perfect solution, if it wasn’t for one pesky problem. Along with many advantages, spray finishing comes with a single, considerable drawback: the arduous and solvent-intensive process of cleaning guns, paint cups and pressure pots, mixing containers and strainers – often many times over before all of the stains, sealers, clear-coats, toners and whatnot are on. In fact, as any experienced spray finisher will tell you, in most cases cleaning up between different types of finish and at the end of the job takes many times longer than the actual spraying.

But remarkably, even the clean-up problem has been solved – within the past few years for industry, and just recently for everyone else. Thanks to the clever engineers at 3M, there’s a spray finish delivery system that fits almost any gun, and makes clean-up easier than washing a paintbrush. And now, through the combined efforts of 3M and Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, this once cost-prohibitive spray finishing solution is in reach for just about any woodworker. With the new EZ-Clean™ Spray System, for the first time you can have the most useful components of 3M’s hugely successful PPS™ paint preparation system in a small, affordable package – perfectly sized for the needs and means of one-off professional shops and weekend woodworkers.

What is EZ-Clean? In essence, it’s a unique delivery system that eliminates needless inefficiencies in the spray finishing process. In terms of basic components, the system consists of a clear hard-plastic mixing/application cup, disposable plastic cup liners, disposable lids equipped with a built-in strainer, and a screw-on collar to hold the lid, cup and liner together. A special adaptor fits the components to the sprayer, where they replace the supply cup that came with the gun. The system also includes a couple of handy auxiliary items: plugs used to cap-off the disposable lids for short-term storage of finish, or for mixing finishes that require “shaking”, and a mix ratio film that slips between the liner and the cup to aid in accurate thinning and mixing of two-part finishes.

This simple arrangement allows the finisher to measure and mix a finish and spray it on using a single, disposable container. The end result is a negligible amount of clean-up. Apart from the few seconds it takes to rinse out the tip of the gun, in fact, the entire cleaning process consists of unscrewing the collar and dropping lid and liner in the trash. Very slick indeed, compared to the usual routine of mixing the finish in one container, straining it into the gun’s supply cup, cleaning the mixing container, cleaning the strainer, spraying the finish, cleaning the cup, cleaning the gun, and repeating the process not only when you’re done, but every time you change finishes.  It’s such a striking contrast, in fact, that everyone from furniture and automotive manufacturers to aerospace equipment makers have happily adopted industrial version of the system, and continue to report huge labor savings and solvent use reductions on the order of 70 percent.

Along with obvious advantages centering on the cleaning process – a healthier work environment, less time wasted on cleaning up, and far less solvent consumption – the EZ-Clean system offers appreciable benefits for the spraying process itself. EZ-Clean is a “closed” delivery system, meaning that once the air is bled from the liner – which is accomplished by pulling the gun trigger for a few seconds – only finish is available to the gun. With no outside air available to the feed system, the gun can be held upside-down, sideways or in any orientation - the liner will still collapse as intended and supply an even flow of finish to the tip. Difficult spray angles aren’t a problem, in other words. The entire inside of a cabinet, for example, can be sprayed without having to flip it over to spray the top.

The complete absence of air in the delivery system also helps as you near the end of the finish supply. There’s no chance that the gun will start sucking air when you run low on liquid and ruin a coat with a sudden blast of un-atomized splatter. And the fact that no outside contaminants can enter the system makes for almost perfectly clean finishing, and a virtual absence of inclusions. Each and every time, you’ll start with a fresh, clean container; one that’s equipped with its own integrated strainer and ready to catch anything that might be lurking in the finish. 

Still another attractive quality of the EZ-Clean™ Spray System is its almost universal applicability. Adapters are available to fit a huge range of existing sprayers from manufacturers including DeVilbiss, Binks, SATA and many, many others. The system works equally well with gravity and siphon fed guns, and even offers a kit for pressure fed guns. The wide range of applications works out great both for shops that already spray finish, and for woodworkers who are getting ready to take the plunge. A quick look through the EZ-Clean “Adapter Reference Chart” will, in all likelihood, turn up any sprayer that you already own, or a gun for any type of system you might want to buy.

The EZ-Clean system also offers a number of options when it comes to finish capacity. Starter kits, which include the mixing cup and collar, the mix ratio film, and enough liners, caps and plugs to get you started, are available in three sizes. For most projects, the 22 oz. Medium Starter Kit is a perfect choice. A good balance between of weight and capacity, the medium kit will supply enough finish to put a few coats on a good sized project, with no stopping to reload. For extra-large jobs – like an entire set of cabinets – the Large Starter Kit, with its 28 oz. capacity, will keep you going longer and help you save on liners and caps.  The diminutive 6 oz. Mini Starter Kit makes for a lightweight, agile set-up, and is the most economical per batch of the three sizes. The Mini Kit is perfect for small jobs, like touch-ups, toners and small-scale projects.

Whichever starter kit (or kits) you choose, the permanent components – the mixing cup, mix ratio film and the collar - are a one time buy. After that, you’ll be able to replenish the disposable elements at a price that’s easy to swallow. A refill kit for each size is available, and contains a manageable 10 each of the disposable lids and liners, and 5 lid plugs.

If you’re getting ready to set aside your brushes and pads in favor of the speed and consistently good results you’d get from a sprayer, it’s worth factoring in the relatively insignificant cost of the EZ-Clean™ Spray System – a cost that you’ll easily make up in the long run with savings on solvents, strainers and rags. If you do, you won’t have to experience the drudgery and potential heath risks involved in cleaning your equipment the old fashioned way even once. And if you already own a sprayer, we encourage you to check and see if there’s an adapter and kit that’s right for your gun – unless of course you really like spending significant amounts of time needlessly elbows deep in thinner.

Not too long ago, Rockler introduced the Sure Hook Tool-less Cabinet door hanger. A uniquely useful device for cabinet door finishers, the Sure Hook mounts in less than a second in the 35 millimeter cup hole used for the incredibly popular European style hinge. Because the Sure hook is able to support a cabinet door solely through contact with the only place on a that you don’t want finish – the cup hole – it leaves the cabinet door finisher free to spray the entire surface of the door - and even move the door from place to place - without ever having to touch the finished surface.

It was an exciting time. At the risk of sounding immodest, we knew it was a great idea, and as we’d guessed, the Sure Hook was greeted with enthusiasm, to say the least. Propelled in part by a modest price of around $4, they simply flew out the door.

However…

Along with a number of very positive comments, we began to notice a theme developing in customer reviews of the Sure Hook as it was originally designed:

“With this device I am now able to finish both sides of the door at one time. Quite a timesaver. I have even begun boring holes in my drawer fronts so I can hang them also. These holes are concealed after assembly so no problem with aesthetics. My only complaint or comment otherwise is that it would be great if the hook could swivel or at least was at 90 degrees to the current configuration. That would allow for closer nesting while the parts are drying.”

“Great idea…[but] The hangers don't allow doors to be hung on a pipe like clothes in a closet. The hook needs to be turned 90 degrees or at least 45 degrees in order for true space savings.”

“Nice product, but the non-swivel hook lacks flexibility.”

“Only complaint is the hook needs to be able to turn or be turned 90 degrees to allow closer spacing when doors are hung to dry.”

Focused as they were on the considerable benefits of being able to quickly and reliably hang a cabinet door and spray the entire surface in one shot, the Sure Hook’s designers apparently overlooked another important use for the device by giving it fixed-position hook: convenient, compact and touch-free drying of a large number of parts. Their answer: the new Sure Hook 360. Now you can have your Sure Hook and turn it too.

Submitted by MaryAnn, from Knox, NY

The new Sure Hook 360 still locks into a 35 mm hinge bore with one simple motion, giving you an easy, fast and reliable method for applying finish to the common cabinet door. And now, thanks to customer comments, it offers the considerable added benefit of letting you dry several doors in a small space. The Sure Hook 360 swivels so that you can hang the door for finishing in any orientation to the direction of the hook convenient for that process, and then swivel the device – again without touching the door – to a position that lets you store a stack of doors (as one reviewer put it) “like clothes hanging in a closet.”

This small design change, we think, makes the Sure Hook a much better tool. But the moral of the story is this: equipment design and development works best as a collaborative effort among as many people who actually use tools as possible. So, if you notice something that would make any of our tools or supplies more accurate, more efficient or easier to use, please let us know. If it makes as much sense as the Sure Hook design modification you requested, we’ll be happy to oblige.

HVLP sprayers are arguably the preferred means of applying wood finish among serious amateurs and professionals alike. And there’s good reason for that: HVLP sprayers deliver in the neighborhood of four times the “material transfer efficiency” of a conventional spray gun. In other words, they put a whole lot more of the finish that comes out of the gun onto the desired target. Instead of the clouds of overspray that conventional high pressure sprayers generate, HVLP (high volume low pressure) guns produces a polite, relatively self-contained stream of spray that lands with 60 to more than 80 percent efficiency in the intended location - and they do it without sacrificing the high degree of finish atomization required for acceptable results.

HVLP sprayers come in two basic forms: “conversion” spray guns set up pretty much like conventional sprayers, using an air compressor as the source of the sometimes vast volumes they require. Turbine driven systems, on the other hand, are self-sufficient and come with the gun, the hose and a turbine unit to supply the stream of air.

At first glance, a conversion gun might seem like the answer – after all, many woodworkers already have a compressor and plenty of air hose around the shop. But before you invest in a gun, remember that HVLP sprayers can draw lots and lots of air, and can run a small-capacity compressor down to nothing in short order. Remember too, that the air coming out of a typical compressor is often loaded with moisture and other contaminants that have to be filtered out in order to avoid spoiling the finish.

By contrast, turbine HVLP systems supply a steady, consistent stream of bone dry air that’s filtered and in sync with what the gun requires to do a good job blasting the finish into tiny particles and delivering it at a decent rate. That makes turbine systems the more attractive option for many hobbyists and smaller operations. But there is a catch – or at least there might be: turbine systems can be fairly expensive. In fact, most reviews that you’ll find in woodworking magazines only give serious consideration to guns costing at least $500, and top honors to guns costing much more.

Does that price you out? We’re guessing that most hobbyists and DIYers would have a hard time justifying the expense of a professional class turbine system. But there are more affordable alternatives. Here, for example, is an  HVLP Spray Gun for around $100 that works on the very same principle as more costly guns. True, it isn’t designed to satisfy the demands of a busy production shop, but that may not be what you’re after. In fact, if you simply want an efficient, reliable means for applying most common wood finishes with smooth, professional-looking results, it could be just the answer. But instead of taking our word for that, find out how this modestly priced HVLP system handles common finishing tasks in Rockler customer reviews like these:

"I truly must admit that I wasn't expecting too much for the price, especially after receiving it and I saw how compact it was. I must tell you in all honesty that I've used a top brand and just knew that this wouldn't perform like them. But I was wrong. After making all adjustments this machine really impressed the heck out of me. I applaud Rockler for having such a fine machine at a very reasonable price. I will tell others about this machine. A lot of bang for your buck. Thanks again ROCKLER."

Ronald Willis Sr., from Raleigh, NC

"I have to say this is a fantastic system for the price. I have basic needs and wasn't expecting much for the price but honestly I am continually impressed by the results from this system. It's dead simple and does a great job at spraying everything from acrylic's to my water poly I finish most of my projects with. Great investment."

Paul Van Lierop, from Woodinville, WA

"I have sprayed both latex (properly thinned) and oil based polyurethane with very good results. For my home based shop, for the money it can't beat. Thanks Rockler."

Gale Deane, from Perrysville, OHIO

"I almost didn't buy this unit when the cashier said it wouldn't spray latex paint. And it was on closeout - my presumption was that perhaps it is being discontinued. But I was pleasantly surprised - it sprayed my Benjamin Moore latex just fine (thinned just slightly with water). This is a great buy."

Nick Hodapp, from Seattle, WA

"The system is a very good basic system for home use. I get good results spraying polyurethane un-thinned."

Arden Young, from Woodbine, MD

"… Using this gun is dynamite! TNT! (Taint Nothing To it!) Thanks Rockler for offering this unit! And thanks to all the users who gave reviews! I'll certainly recommend it to anyone needing a HVLP sprayer. I don't know that anyone could get more value from an HVLP that cost 3 or 4 times more.

"The blower unit is compact, light weight and well designed. The power switch is placed in a handy place. Even has a built in storage spot for the gun. An extra needle valve and a small wrench are also included.

"Most likely, all of my future stain and finish will be applied with this unit."

CHUCK WRIGHT, from Lancaster, CA

(Read more HVLP Spray Gun reviews)

Have you ever added up how much money you spend on woodworking’s most disposable supply? If you did, you might develop a serious interest in prolonging the working life of your sandpaper – especially those spendy specialized abrasives that go on your disc, drum and belt sanding equipment. Unfortunately, there’s still no way to sharpen sandpaper, but you can get a lot more mileage out of it while it still has an edge by keeping it clean. And if you do take the time to clear away all of the resinous gobs of dust with some frequency, your abrasives will actually stay sharp longer. Not only will they cut better, but they’ll run cooler, and won’t break down nearly as fast.

So, how do you clean sandpaper? With one of the most popular products in Rockler’s entire catalog – an Abrasive Cleaning Stick. This magical device consists of a specially formulated rubber that abrades away slowly when moved against a sandpaper surface. The heat generated causes dust particles stuck in the grit to bond to abraded rubber particles, which are in turn whisked away in the process. You just hold the stick up against your belt, drum, disc, or whatever kind of sander’s abrasive material while it’s moving and watch it magically restored, often to like new condition.

It really does work. If you ask around, you may even run into a few abrasive cleaning stick “enthusiasts”. Normally, we wouldn’t expect people to get excited about a product with such a prosaic purpose as cleaning sandpaper. But everyone who ever tries one seems swear by their miraculous sandpaper rejuvenating properties ever after. And many of them are more than willing to tell you about it, as they have in these Rockler customer reviews:

"Holy Cow! I was skeptical about leaving the wrapper on, but it didn't stop it from working perfectly. My disc and belt are far cleaner than compressed air and a vacuum ever got them. And it literally only took a few seconds. Worth every penny!"

Chris R., from Manchester, CT

"I never used one of these but heard good things about it and thought I would try it. I got one and they work GREAT. My sanding devices would get clogged and I was changing out sand paper way too often. I used this device and I am getting a very extended life out of my belts, spindles, discs etc. Very versatile. Well worth the small price you pay to extend the life of your sand paper. HIGHLY RECOMENDED."

Greg V., from St.Paul, MN

"If you have a sander--you MUST have one or more of these!!! I have been using them for years and have never been disappointed. Highly recommended!!"

Richard DiPasquale, from Mesa, AZ

"Had my doubts as I had never used one before. It works great. Recommended it to my son-in-law already. If you haven't used this before, buy it with confidence."

Lloyd M. Herrin, from Empire, AL

"I have used this product and it works great. 5-10 seconds and it cleans the belt like new. I can use a belt 5-10 times longer than before. I would guess each stick is good for about 100 cleanings. Well worth the money."

Steve Adams, from Valdosta, GA

"I have and use this product regularly. This product really does what it says, saves me time and money. The time is saved in the changing of belts and money in the amount of belts purchase. I would recommend that every shop and woodworker have one."

Scott Saylors, from Cohutta , GA

Does anyone out there actually like to sand? If so, please write in and tell us why. Otherwise, we have a suggestion: Think about the amount of time you spend on a task that's just about the least amount of woodworking fun you can have, and how great it would be to cut it by a factor of three.

The "3X" in Norton 3X Sandpaper means (according to the manufacturer) that it sands three times faster than standard aluminum oxide sandpaper.  Sound like an extravagant claim? The more you learn about the product, the easier it is to believe. Just spend a few minutes surfing the abundance of glowing reviews and you'll get the idea. And the raves come from reliable sources: Popular Woodworking Magazine named Norton 3X sandpaper 2003's "best new tool." Teri Masaschi started off her Fine Woodworking article, “Favorite Finishing Products” with the stuff. In fact, when anyone says anything about Norton 3X, it always seems to sound pretty much like these Rockler customer reviews:

"I am a piano refinisher and have been sanding for over 25 years. I discovered the Norton 3X Sandpaper about three years ago and wish I had discovered it 20 years ago. But I suppose it didn't exist 20 years ago. All I have to say is "Thank You" to the Norton company for developing the BEST sandpaper I have ever used. It really lasts a long time and it doesn't gum up for a long time. There are so many more comments I could make but I will stop now. Enjoy your sanding with 3X Sandpaper."

Chrysler in Ashland, NC

“I am always skeptical of manufacturers' claims, but this sandpaper does indeed seem to last 3X! It is well worth the only slight increase in price over traditional sandpaper.”

Brian in Knoxville, TN

Norton 3X has a few things going for it that set it apart from standard aluminum oxide sandpaper: It's made with a superior grade of abrasive that cuts better and last longer. To keep it from tearing over its exceptionally long usfeul life, Norton 3X is backed with fiber-reinforced paper. Best of all, its stearate coating helps keep it from loading up with resin and old finish for far longer than uncoated sandpaper.
 
Still not sure? Give Norton 3X sandpaper a test drive. The Norton 3X Sandpaper Assortment Pack includes one each of 60, 100, 180 and 220 grit paper - enough to take you through a small project.  But be forewarned: Once you've tried it, the thought of going back to standard sandpaper may be too dismal to entertain. Fortunately, Norton 3X Sandpaper is also available in economical twenty-sheet packs of individual grits ranging from 60 to 400 when you're ready to stock up.

Nothing catches the eye like a big ole scratch or chip right in the middle of an otherwise beautifully finished wood surface – except, possibly, a failed repair attempt. Below, Michael Dresdner outlines two of the most time-honored finish repair methods in answer to a Woodworker’s Journal eZine reader who's having trouble getting the invisible fixes he's after.

Q. When the finish (lacquer or varnish) on a tabletop or dresser is chipped down to the bare wood, what is the best method to repair this damage? Usually these chips are 1/4" wide and 1/2" or 1" long. I have a light- colored mahogany dresser with three small scratches and have tried padding lacquer, but it doesn't level the scratch to the surface. What can I use to bring the surface level and smooth? I have also tried shellac sticks but am not satisfied with the finish these leave or with the color. Can the so-called wax sticks be used for this type of repair, and will the topcoat finish of varnish, lacquer or Varathane® adhere to these waxes?

A. Michael Dresdner: "There are two good techniques for filling chips. The faster one requires more skill, while the simpler one is slow and tedious.
"The classic quick method is burn-in stick (sometimes called stick shellac, though modern sticks are of other resin combinations.) Sticks come in a wide range of colors including clear and translucent amber, so with a deft hand and some experience, you can indeed get a very good match. I suspect your dissatisfaction with them could be attributed either to lack of experience (they are not particularly user-friendly, and take quite a bit of practice to get good results) or a lack of access to the proper color assortment.
 

"The other method, called 'doping in,' is both slower and somewhat easier. Use a small artist's brush to fill the voids, a few drops at a time, with a fast-drying spray lacquer. Use clear, or if color is needed, tinted lacquer. As the lacquer cures, it will shrink substantially. Come back each day and add another drop or two, letting each day's addition cure fully before you continue. Depending on the depth of the chip, this method will take several days or longer. Keep filling until the lacquer sits just slightly proud after it is cured and hard. Sand the area flush to the surrounding finish using 600 grit or finer sandpaper wrapped around a small, stiff block.

"No matter which method you use, burn-in stick or doping in, the repair will look much better if you add another topcoat of whatever the finish is to blend the sheen of the repair.

"I doubt you will be happy with a wax stick repair. They are opaque, and while they will hide chips in obscure, hard-to-see areas, the repair will be very obvious when viewed head-on, as on a tabletop. In addition, most coatings will not cure over wax stick."

From the Woodworker's Journal eZine archives

If you decide to try your hand at the burn in method, you’ll need, at minimum, a burn-in knife and burn-in stick. We recommend practicing your technique on a piece of finished scrap before you take after the neighbor’s Steinway. For best results, consider picking up a tin of heat-resistant Burn-In Balm. Wipe a little on the areas surrounding the repair to avoid overheating the finish and turning a small defect into a major blemish.

For doping-in, try a few drops Brushing Lacquer applied with a Sable Touch-Up Brush as directed above. With either a burned in or doped in repair, absolutely invisible repairs can be achieved by applying a coat of a compatible clear finish to the entire surface as a final step.

“Fuming” is a method of coloring wood by exposing it to ammonia fumes. In short, the wood and ammonia are sealed into a fuming chamber where the concentrated fumes react with the tannin in the wood and cause it to turn anywhere from a rich brown to almost black, depending on the length of exposure. The method became popular around the turn of the century, especially with Arts and Crafts furniture makers, who liked it because it evenly colored the quarter sawn white oak they favored. The process lives on, and is still considered the method of choice for Mission style furniture. And it’s not all that difficult, although there a few important safety considerations. Below, Michael Dresdner explains the process – including how to protect yourself - in answer to a Woodworkers Journal eZine reader’s question.

Q. "Fuming wood. It's a finishing technique used in Mission style furniture. What strength ammonia is required and where to obtain it? Does it require heat and how much heat? How long does the process take, and how much ammonia is required? Does anyone have any ideas for the "Fuming Chamber"?

A. Michael Dresdner: "Fuming is a dangerous process, so gear up with eye protection, respirator, and gloves. Suit up BEFORE you open the jug, or open the chamber. Use 35% solution ammonium hydroxide, which you can get from a chemical supply house or blueprint supplier (this is the ammonia used in blueprint machines -- something becoming increasingly rare thanks to computer plotters.) The ammonia generates fumes that are trapped in a chamber -- hence, very little is required, since a small amount will generate a good bit of fumes. One bowl will do a tented table or chair, and a gallon will do an entire chamber full of furniture. Naturally, it can be used again and again."

"The longer the furniture is in the chamber, the darker it gets. Typical schedules go from 12 hours (a very light fuming) to 72 hours (rather dark). Test scraps first.

"The temperature in the chamber not only affects speed of fuming, but also color. The hotter the chamber, the more reds it brings out. Colder chambers result in a more greenish brown. Make one section of the chamber of clear plastic, and shine a heat lamp into it. Remember, ammonia corrodes aluminum, so no electrical connections should be inside the chamber. You'll notice that when the air inside gets up to 80 or 82 degrees, the reaction goes faster and the colors get slightly redder."

"A simple chamber can be nothing more than a frame draped with clear or black 2 mil plastic. Make the frame of wood scraps or plastic pipe -- anything that will hold up plastic and surround the piece you are fuming. Seal the plastic at the bottom with duct tape. (Obviously, don't fume on a wood floor -- fuming works even through most finishes.) For a more permanent, reusable one, try one of those ubiquitous Rubbermaid storage sheds. Close it and seal up the edges and seams with duct tape."

From the Woodworker's Journal eZine Archives

You’ll also find some great tips on fuming white oak in the Woodweb Knowledge Base. As a bonus, the discussion includes a glimpse of how they did things in the old days:

"There was this old story about fuming my grandfather told about oak and some other woods done in France. He said the work was interior installations of small stores. When the work was complete, everything inside the space was removed, and all windows and doors were sealed except one. This would be sealed from the outside. When it was sealed really tight, the finisher would set a big flat pan of ammonia on a metal grate, and light a real thick candle under it. Next morning he'd come by, check the color, make sure the candle was still lit, and wait for the right tint to the wood. (Ahh… the old tricks--who would care to hand stain an entire architectural molded interior space?)"

(We assume that wood fumers of years past used appropriate, government approved safety equipment as well – of course they did. - ed.)

If you have access to the Fine Woodworking magazine archives (a modest subscription fee is required) make sure you read Kevin Rodel’s "Fuming with Ammonia” (FW # 126). You’ll find a thorough explanation of the process and a look at how fuming works with species other than the traditional white oak. Marc Spagnuolo (aka the Wood Whisperer) offered his wood fuming method recently (see May 14). Note the emphasis, again, on taking the proper safety precautions. Knowing that the sheer nastiness of the chemicals would put off some woodworkers, he added a link to a Jeff Jewitt article on simulating the look of fumed wood with stains and dyes and other common wood finishes. 

Finally, if you want to learn Mission furniture making from start to finish, pick up a copy of The Furniture of Gustav Stickley. It covers the entire process, including how to fume your finished projects to the point of perfect authenticity.

When most of us think of wood stain, we picture a can of premixed oil-based wood stain with a name like “Golden Oak” or “Vermont Maple”. And most of us know the familiar application process: Wipe the stain on the surface of the wood, let it “soak in” and then wipe off the excess.  Sometimes the results are great; sometimes, not so good. For most woodworkers, that’s just one of life’s mysteries, and for every wood coloring project there’s an underlying risk and a spine-tingling element of suspense. But a little knowledge can quickly help you to take more control of the process, and get more consistent, predictable results.

Stain Colors

The wood color effect of most wood stains is produced by either a “pigment” or a “dye”, or a combination of the two. It’s important to understand the difference - they behave very differently from one another. The most familiar type of colorant – pigments - are fine particles of inert compounds, and include natural pigments, such as ochre, umber and sienna, and synthetic pigments, which come in a wider variety of colors and go by less poetic names, like Quinacridone Violet and Phthalo Green.

The main difference between the two is has to do with the depth of the color they produce, and the degree to which they obscure the grain pattern of the wood. Contrary to the common conception, pigments don’t actually “soak in” to the wood. They rest of the surface. Dyes, on the other hand, do actually penetrate the cell structure of the wood. Because of this, dyes tend to produce more transparent and natural looking results.

Pigmented Wood Stain

Since pigments do not penetrate wood cell fibers, they have to be affixed to the surface of the wood with a “binder”.  A typical can of oil-based stain relies mainly on pigments (but many contain some dye, as well) and hence, needs to include a binder in its mixture. A binder can be any clear wood finish that will cure and adhere to the surface of the wood, but most commercially available stains use a “long-oil” (high curing oil content) binder, which dries slowly and helps insure that there is plenty of open time to wipe on the stain before it begins to set up.

Most water-based stains are also heavily reliant on pigments. In a water-based stain, the binder is essentially a thinned down waterborne clear finish. Water-based stains have the advantage of being more environmentally friendly than oil-based stains, and also clean up easily with soap and water. The trade off is a shorter drying time, which can make them difficult to apply evenly. And, as with anything that you can put on wood that contains water, they have a tendency to raise the wood grain. But “pre-raising” the wood grain by wetting it with a small amount of water and then sanding off the “fuzz” after it dries can help to mitigate the grain-raising effect of all water-based finishes, including stain.

Since pigmented stains do not actually penetrate into the fibers of the wood, they need something to “grab onto” when they are applied. In other words, when you brush on a pigmented stain and wipe of the excess, what remains is the pigment caught in irregularities in the wood surface – the surface of the wood cells, sanding scratches, etc. You may have noticed that it’s difficult to get a very smooth, close grained wood to take pigmented stain, such as a piece of hard maple that just been through a planer. In order to get a pigmented stain to “take”, you need to leave some surface irregularity for the stain to get a hold of. And for that reason, most experts suggest not sanding raw wood with finer than 150 grit sandpaper prior to applying a primarily pigment-based stain.

Dye Stains

The most common type of dye stain comes in power form and is meant to be dissolved in water to produce the desired color concentration. Water soluble dye stain powders, like Homestead Dry Dyes, are most often used to add color to raw wood, just as a pigmented stain is, but with one important difference: Because a dye stain actually takes seat in the cells of the wood, and not just on the surface, you can achieve a much deeper concentration of color without obscuring the grain pattern. And unlike pigmented stains, dye stains mix well for custom blending, and are easier to color-correct (simply by adding more color or wiping off some of the stain) after they have been applied.

Water soluble dye stains do have one drawback, however. Although the color-fastness of dye stains has greatly improved over the years, water soluble dye stains are subject to some degree of fading caused by exposure to sunlight. Pigmented stains, in contrast, can be considered virtually colorfast, regardless of lighting conditions. A more recently developed type of dye – known as metalized or premetalized dyes – offers a significant improvement in colorfastness over “standard” dyes. Often referred to as NGR (non-grain raising) dyes, these dye stains come premixed in a blend of alcohol and a retarder (to slow down the drying process).  Concentrated NGRs, like Homestead TransTint Dyes are particularly useful for the hobbyist. They can be mixed with water or alcohol to produce about 1 quart of dye stain per ounce, and they are also exceptional for tinting a variety of wood finishes.

Finally, oil-soluble dye toners should be mentioned. Oil-soluble dyes are found in premixed commercial oil-based stains, along with natural and synthetic pigments. The main advantage of keeping a few shades of oil soluble dye on hand is that it makes it easy to adjust the color of store bought oil stains, and to deepen their penetration into wood cells. Along with that, oil soluble dyes come in handy for adding a little color to almost any oil-based clear finish. A small collection of oil soluble dyes, like the 6-piece oil-based dye toner set, offers a good basic palette of oil soluble dyes; with it, you’ll be ready for most any color matching situation where the nearest commercial stain is close, but just needs a little “tweaking”.

Understanding that the few varieties of premixed stains available at you local hardware store isn’t the sum total of your wood toning and coloring options is an important step in gaining control over the results of you woodworking efforts. But, of course, getting the hang of enhancing the appearance of finished wood does take a little practice.
Fortunately, you can experiment all you want with wood finishes for only a modest investment. The best way to become an expert in coloring and toning wood with pigment and dye stains is to arm yourself with an understanding of the basic principles involved and then experiment, experiment, experiment.