Are Radial Arm Saws a Thing of the Past?

sliding miter saw bladeIt's a perennially popular debate: With all of the great sliding compound miter saws out there these days, is there any point in owning a radial arm saw? Is a radial arm saw an inherently dangerous tool? There's no concensus among  expert woodworkers, as you'll read below. Here's our two cents: The blade you put on a radial arm saw - or any saw, for that matter - has a lot to do with how well it will perform and how safe it is to use. Read more on choosing radial arm saw blades here on the blog. 

Q. Are radial arm saws obsolete, especially when you take into account the latest compound miter saws out there on the market? And are they safe?

A. (Rob Johnstone) "Radial arm saws are great and a very useful power tool. With the increasing popularity of power miter boxes and their slide-arm cousins, I can understand how the question could be asked, but my answer is they are in no way obsolete. The main reason they remain a great option for woodworkers is their versatility.

R.J. DeCristoforo used the radial arm saw for so many operations it would simply amaze you. He routed, sanded and did horizontal boring in addition to actually cutting wood with it. In fact he used it so often, I wonder if he could do woodworking at all without one. Paul Eckhoff of Ridgid Tools made the versatility point quite strongly when I posed the question to him. Ridgid introduced a brand new radial arm saw this year and I asked him point blank why they did it. Paul offered the opinion that radial arm saws offer a woodworker more options than a table saw. So if you think of radial arm saws as a power miter box on steroids, you might feel that their days have passed. But if you understand their remarkable versatility, you just might wonder what you are doing without one".

A. (Rick White) I don't know if they're obsolete, but I know I wouldn't buy one. The new compound miter saws and radial miter saws are much nicer. They are a lot more accurate and are becoming much more reasonably priced. The radial arm saw can be a lot more flexible if you add sanding accessories or chucks for shaping.

In terms of safety, they can be a bit more tricky. The blade is coming at you and is climbing the wood, so there's a lot of momentum between the blade and arm toward the person using it. It can be pretty dangerous in the shop, but that can be said of any power tool. Just look at a chop saw and imagine the accidents that could cause. The danger of the radial arm saw is the way it walks toward you. I can also imagine safety issues when you're ripping with one of these. If, for example, you're ripping a long piece with a dado blade, I'd think the blade would 'want' to take that wood and throw it."

A. (Ian Kirby) "Radial arm saws were built for industry early last century when thick wide boards of solid wood were staple materials. They were used in mill work to rough cut to length, and in production, to cut to length. Holding a right angle was not a problem for the well engineered, heavily built machines, but the quality of the grain cut was poor since it was the age of the spacing set blade.

After WWII a lightweight downmarket version of a radial arm saw sold vigorously to homeowners?it was said to be the "must own" woodworking machine in the U.S. Unlike it's industrial counterpart, it didn't hold a right angle at all well and the quality of the end grain cut was what you got with the blade of the times. In the 60s, with the introduction of the TCT blade, the end grain cut was greatly improved but the inaccurate angle cut remained. Today's mitre saws are better engineered than the "homeowner" radial arm saws. They are generally limited to a 12" cut length and they use a TCT blade. They hold the set angle very well and deliver a first rate end grain cut?that for me takes care of to the vast majority of cross cuts. Dimensions longer than 12" are best cut using a sliding cross cut fence or box on a table saw.

Are they safe? If they're used to cross cut and if accuracy is not important, yes. If they are used in any other way, no."

A. (Ellis Walentine) "In my mind, radial arm saws are not at all obsolete. Although sliding compound miter saws do an excellent job of finish-crosscutting boards up to 12" wide, nothing beats a radial arm saw for crosscutting wider stock and rough boards. Properly adjusted, the radial arm saw can cut very accurate dados, referenced on the opposite side of the board, which is a big advantage for some jobs.

The radial arm saw's reputation has suffered because of the "do-everything" billing it received in the '60s and 70s through the marketing efforts of a couple prominent mass marketers. It was touted as the best all-around solution not only for crosscutting, but also for ripping, dadoing, shaping, routing and saber-sawing. In fact, the radial saw is a poor match for many of these tasks; and some of these secondary operations, particularly ripping, have proven to be quite hazardous."

From the Woodworker's Journal eZine archives

Comments (Comment Moderation is enabled. Your comment will not appear until approved.)
I use both, doing compound and angle cuts on the mitter saw and square cuts on the radial. A radial arm saw does one more thing we fail to remember. They can be turned to do a fine job of ripping long boards. I keep mine set nice and square and do almost all my cross cuts on it. Always there, ready to flip a switch and cross cut using the added laser pointer, but I must admit, I spent some time tuning it to near perfect squareness. .. and I never change the angle... it is a work horse.
# Posted By Randy Kimball | 2/21/07 1:02 PM
I use my radial arm for a multitude of things.....specialty moldings using a moulding head (Sears, don't you EVER discontinue them!), tenons, lap joints, and especially crosscuts.
I frequently make moldings of exotic or uncommon woods.

Yes, I do have a sliding compound mitre saw, but I save that for on-site jobs where most of the work is just cut-off work.

I have a TINY 8x12 shop, and have the radial arm set in a corner. The left fence/tabletop extends out to the double doors; the right side is right against a wall, with a small door set up to pass-through stock. I can rip stuff on the saw if needed.
There is room to swing the saw both ways for angled cuts.

I HIGHLY recommend that the side tables be covered with laminate to provide slipperyness.....the area right by the blade is MDF for a sacrificial top.
It provides enough friction to hold the stock still for cutting, and the De Cristoforo book on using the saw is an incredible resource....use it!
# Posted By Ryan Grimm | 7/20/07 7:59 AM
I have a 1948 DeWalt GR 24" crosscut 14" radial arm saw in my shop. I frequently use it to crosscut rough slabs for tabletops, doors and windows. Also good for cabinet crosscuts for plywood parts. It sets up square and stays there. Properly adjusted they do not "climb" at you. Anyone who thinks they can cut rough lumber safer than this machine with a chop box or skill saw should submit for a drug test. At nearly 1000# I do not move it to job sites as was actually done decades ago...this beast is stationary. An original saw or old dewalt or delta is a fine machine to have if your space/needs/budget can afford it. My dewalt also makes finish end cuts smooth as glass and very square. That said I grew up with and have used a Craftsman homemaker model in another shop and would rather crosscut my slabs by hand than risk my life with one of those.
# Posted By Matthew Reguin | 10/2/07 8:08 PM
All good comments here, but these two saw formats are both evolving. It will be interesting to see how this goes. I'd like to see each saw evolve new capability; dado capability on a sliding miter saw, that is the capacity for a dado blade on the arbor and set height slider setting, and cross cabinet length dado cuts on the RAS for nominal 24" wide panels as is the case with "The Original Saw" RAS.

RED
# Posted By Ernest Demaray | 10/24/07 9:20 AM
I tend to think that the RAS is one of the safer power tools in the shop, when treated with respect for it's power. Why? With a RAS you are controling the saw and thus tend to always know where the blade is, versus a table saw where often times the kerf is the only sign of where the blade is going, and often times a woodworker hunches over the saw. But each tool has it's place, I find a table saw unrivaled for ripping and a RAS unrivaled for crosscutting. I think the danger with a RAS comes in with taking the tool into questionable waters. I'd say that if you have to ask yourself should I make this cut then the tool is beyond it's use. My theory use a table saw for ripping, use a jointer/planer for it's purpose, a router for it's purpose, bandsaw for it's purpose, and a RAS most definately belongs in the shop.
# Posted By Seth Hook | 11/25/07 8:37 PM
Very interesting; I have used a Radial Arm saw for over 30 years and find many of the comments about safety are made on hearsay or without due consideration; for instance:
1. You can rip from either end of the table. Rip from one end and, sure enough, the blade tries to climb and throw the board, but rip from the other end and the saw blade tries to lift and with the blade guard in a suitable position it then works almost like a table saw. My saw was built in the 50's or early 60's ( I got it at a garage sale) so didn't have all the modern safety features.

2. I have found that even after long use the cross cut function is still within 1° to 2° and if I check and adjust it occasionally it will hold less than 1°. Good enough?

I haven't used multiple brands, but am inclined to say accuracy and function are likely more dependent on quality than saw type. Is this a Chevy vs. Ford debate?
# Posted By Don Watts | 2/26/08 11:13 PM
can any 1 with real experance ,not hearsay, tell me the proper saw blade to use on a radial arm saw? i have read that the safest blade has a -5% saw tooth ???? plz. let me know for sure.
# Posted By joe purman | 3/23/08 10:01 PM
I couldn't imagine my shop without a Radial Arm Saw. I've never even had as much as a close call for safety, but I do use it properly. Accuracy is a bit of a problem if you don't keep it "in tune". The major problem I've found is when you are constantly swining the arm to different angles and then back to 90 degrees. My RAS is a 28 year old Craftsman and it is WELL used and still working well. The sliding compound miter saws just don't have the reach I use in making furniture. I can't ever see being without a RAS
# Posted By David Heath | 3/31/08 4:06 PM
I own a Rigid radial arm saw and am trying to locate a fitting that will allow me to hook my shop vac up to the dust port on the blade guard. Does anyone know where I can purchase this? Thanks, Michael
# Posted By Michael P. O'Connor | 8/28/08 10:22 PM
Michael - what are the inside and outside dimensions of the saw's dust port? We may have a fitting that will work.
# Posted By Blog Editor | 8/29/08 3:57 PM
Radial arm saws have a lot of versatility compared to table saws. Horizontal boring, sanding, milling, etc. The saw does have to be adjusted properly to make accurate cuts. Most of my friends who do not like radial arm saws were those who used a saw which was out of adjustment. They are not very portable, but can cut large stock, if the proper supports for the stock are used in the shop. No single saw will do everything.
# Posted By Lewis Pond | 9/5/09 2:05 PM
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