Well, Yeah--But Still:
Posted February 27, 2014
IMHO, the one-star folks should just stick with Minwax PolyShades and try not to go beyond that. Why? Because you test your finishing on scrap, NOT on your project! The tub I bought at the local Rockler's this winter came in about the consistency of pudding, not thin as others have suggested. Don't know if it's the 65 degree room or what. (Kudos to the Rockler folks: if the stuff EVER freezes. you will have a useless tub of artificial cottage cheese and the staff here opened every tub in stock to ensure mine was OK!) I used one of those cheap, china bristle brushes to swab on a thickish layer over my walnut crystal-stained maple test board. This dye is water-soluble and the Crystalac took a bit with it as I brushed, but not to an objectionable extent. If it had, I'd seal first with a thin wipe of shellac or solvent poly. In the time it took to clean up my brush, the stuff was just beginning to set up with a very mild latex paint odor. This was all of 3-5 minutes and I used a plastic scraper to level the material as it reached school paste consistency. Probably too much, I needed a second coat to get ready for a glassy surface. Sanded with 400, then a quick 800 pass. A few coats of Wipe-On Poly and it looks nice. Not the most chatoyance I've seen, dunno if that's the Crystalac, or poly instead of Maloof or Waterlox. Got plenty of scrap to work with, and patience as well.
I didn't have much luck using...
Posted May 11, 2012
I didn't have much luck using a squeegee or putty type of knife so it sat on my shelf for quite awhile. One day I really needed something to fill in a top made of flat sawn Red Oak so I took it down, put on rubber gloves and applied it by hand and it worked like a charm. I put down large dollops and proceded to really work it in with my hands and then would smooth it out leaving a very light film all over and I then allowed it to dry over night. The next day I hit it with the sander and my pores were nicely filled. When I first used it I think I was filling the pores but when I would wipe it or use a squeegee to clean of the excess it would pull out the filler which is why this time I allowed it to completey dry and sanded off the excess.
Crystalac is very different from other...
Posted July 1, 2011
Crystalac is very different from other non-water based grain fillers I have used. I thinned it a little bit with water, and spread it on mahogany with a brush. It seemed to fill all the pores really easily, and without much extra help from the brush, which is what I'm used to having to do. I left it on for 15-20 minutes. It stayed really wet for quite a while, maybe because I thinned it a bit. But after about 15-20 minutes it began to set up and became the consistency of pudding. At that point I troweled it off with a plastic scraper. The excess came off really easily without removing any filler from the pores. I was really happy with how cleanly it scraped, it didn't leave behind much for me to sand later. I let it dry for a few hours. Then I sanded away the excess, which wasn't much. And the sanding took me a lot less time than with other fillers I've used. I'm really happy with the results. I can't wait to try using dye for a colored fill!