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- Home /
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- Wood Filler and Grain Filler /
- CrystaLac® Clear Waterborne Wood Grain Filler
Overview
Clear wood filler dries rapidly for quick sanding! It's great for exotic woods that are colorful, and it can be tinted with dyes or colors to match the wood. Makes an ideal wipe-on sealer for porous woods.
Features:
- Just wipe on and trowel off with sanding between coats
- Apply several coats on deep holes
- It can be tinted with dyes or colors to match the wood
- For best results, stain wood before applying filler
- Minimal shrink formula
What's included
(1) Quart of CrystaLac Wood Grain Filler
Technical Details
- Brand: CrystaLac
- Manufacturer Part Number: WOOD GRAIN FILLER QT
- Weight (lbs): 2.3500
- Size: Quart
Product Warnings
Caution: Avoid breathing sanding dust. Use an OSHA approved dust mask. Contains silica. Do no ingest. Keep out of reach of children. Keep from freezing.
Technical Downloads
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Frequently Bought Together
Questions and Answers
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Browse 15 questions
Browse 15 questions
and 57 answers
Why did you choose this?
Rockler Store
painting oak cabinets
Kurt Z
on Jan 4, 2018
To fill an open-grained oak table top
John G
on Jul 10, 2017
Initially, read good reviews. After using it for a year I am very pleased. It does what it's supposed to do.
Lew S
on Mar 11, 2017
Rec-emended by my son
robert b
on Oct 17, 2016
reviews
Blizz
on Jul 10, 2016
to improve the quality of my wood finishing
DOUG T
on May 15, 2016
antique radio cabinet restoration hobby
Christopher Y
on Apr 5, 2016
I've used this in the past; it works great.
Mark H
on Mar 25, 2016
I am running out
Temple B
on Feb 8, 2016
read that it is a good grain filler and it proved to be great for the jobs I needed it for.
Raymond S
on Jan 9, 2016
Your review said that this is good to cover woodgrain on furniture. To get a slick finish.
James R
on Dec 14, 2015
discussion with sales person in store
dOUG H
on Dec 1, 2015
I thought I could try it out
Paul B
on Sep 8, 2015
Making an oak table top and want to fill the grains in the oak plywood.
STEPHEN B
on Aug 9, 2015
Trying this product to help get a mirror type finish.
Guy B
on Jul 11, 2015
need a product that will do what it proclaims.
stephen b
on Apr 20, 2015
painting oak cabinets
Kurt Z
on Jan 4, 2018
Sealing and hiding grain for old oak cabinet I am painting
Thomas R B
on Aug 30, 2017
To fill an open-grained oak table top
John G
on Jul 10, 2017
I want to have the tops of the tables smooth. I have used grain filler many times, but never have used CrystaLac. I am hoping that this works well.
Paul M
on Jul 6, 2017
Initially, read good reviews. After using it for a year I am very pleased. It does what it's supposed to do.
Lew S
on Mar 11, 2017
try it
mark c
on Nov 2, 2016
Rec-emended by my son
robert b
on Oct 17, 2016
I need a grain filler for oak cabinets. This is specifically designed for this situation. There are other products that can be used but their design is for other uses.
Robert E B
on Sep 12, 2016
reviews
Blizz
on Jul 10, 2016
Hope to get a polished look finish on Red Oak without the typical deep grain groves.
Grant C
on Jun 13, 2016
to improve the quality of my wood finishing
DOUG T
on May 15, 2016
To improve the finish on the guitars I am building.
KENNETH M
on May 2, 2016
antique radio cabinet restoration hobby
Christopher Y
on Apr 5, 2016
Was recommended on the Antique Radio Forum
James O
on Mar 25, 2016
I've used this in the past; it works great.
Mark H
on Mar 25, 2016
I had an order for a round kitchen table on a pedestal to be made of red oak. I wanted a very even colored, smooth glass like polyurethane finish on this very open grain wood. It was beautiful.
Carl B
on Feb 21, 2016
I am running out
Temple B
on Feb 8, 2016
Works wonderfully
James P T
on Jan 26, 2016
read that it is a good grain filler and it proved to be great for the jobs I needed it for.
Raymond S
on Jan 9, 2016
To try it out on an Oak project where I need a mirror finish.
Edward S
on Dec 17, 2015
Your review said that this is good to cover woodgrain on furniture. To get a slick finish.
James R
on Dec 14, 2015
To fill grain in segmented turnings
Mark R
on Dec 13, 2015
discussion with sales person in store
dOUG H
on Dec 1, 2015
I read the report and how this item works and the ease of using it.....
jim s
on Nov 29, 2015
I thought I could try it out
Paul B
on Sep 8, 2015
needed it for a Chinese bench made of oak and a new walnut table top on and antique table frame
Paul S
on Aug 27, 2015
Making an oak table top and want to fill the grains in the oak plywood.
STEPHEN B
on Aug 9, 2015
I'm impressed with the ease of use; does a great job of filling the wood in my scroll saw projects. I finish some of my wood with lacquer and the nice part is the wood still keeps its natural beauty.
Gerald S
on Jul 12, 2015
Trying this product to help get a mirror type finish.
Guy B
on Jul 11, 2015
preparing a finish sample on teak for a clear, full fill finish.
JIM T
on Jun 30, 2015
need a product that will do what it proclaims.
stephen b
on Apr 20, 2015
Sealing and hiding grain for old oak cabinet I am painting
Thomas R B
on Aug 30, 2017
I want to have the tops of the tables smooth. I have used grain filler many times, but never have used CrystaLac. I am hoping that this works well.
Paul M
on Jul 6, 2017
try it
mark c
on Nov 2, 2016
I need a grain filler for oak cabinets. This is specifically designed for this situation. There are other products that can be used but their design is for other uses.
Robert E B
on Sep 12, 2016
Hope to get a polished look finish on Red Oak without the typical deep grain groves.
Grant C
on Jun 13, 2016
To improve the finish on the guitars I am building.
KENNETH M
on May 2, 2016
Was recommended on the Antique Radio Forum
James O
on Mar 25, 2016
I had an order for a round kitchen table on a pedestal to be made of red oak. I wanted a very even colored, smooth glass like polyurethane finish on this very open grain wood. It was beautiful.
Carl B
on Feb 21, 2016
Works wonderfully
James P T
on Jan 26, 2016
To try it out on an Oak project where I need a mirror finish.
Edward S
on Dec 17, 2015
To fill grain in segmented turnings
Mark R
on Dec 13, 2015
I read the report and how this item works and the ease of using it.....
jim s
on Nov 29, 2015
needed it for a Chinese bench made of oak and a new walnut table top on and antique table frame
Paul S
on Aug 27, 2015
I'm impressed with the ease of use; does a great job of filling the wood in my scroll saw projects. I finish some of my wood with lacquer and the nice part is the wood still keeps its natural beauty.
Gerald S
on Jul 12, 2015
preparing a finish sample on teak for a clear, full fill finish.
JIM T
on Jun 30, 2015
Can this product be used on marine mahogany planking under oil based marine finish?
John F
on Jan 19, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The water evaporates when dry, but I have used a seal coat of shellac between water based and oil finishes with good results.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Clint E on Aug 1, 2016
- Purchased on Sep 26, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The water evaporates when dry, but I have used a seal coat of shellac between water based and oil finishes with good results.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Clint E on Aug 1, 2016
- Purchased on Sep 26, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
I'd like to use a stained wood filler to bring out wood grain in otherwise blah pieces. Can CrystaLac be heavily tinted with either dye stain or liquid dyes to accomplish this?
Monday317
on Dec 28, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I have added die to the filler and it worked ok but I have stained over top of it.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Pat R on Dec 29, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I have added die to the filler and it worked ok but I have stained over top of it.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Pat R on Dec 29, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
We "oaked out" and wanting to paint our staircase and want as little grain showing through the paint as possible. Paint stores say clean, sand, primer, sand, primer, sand, and on and on. We realize this is going to be a tedious project, but we do have more time than money and hope to get a good result. Will your wood grain filler do the trick?
Suzanne M
on Jan 15, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Clean your project with water and a little dish detergent. Squeegee the Crystalac into the open grain. A little goes a long way. Let it dry and harden at least overnight. Lightly sand and then prime. Touch up with more Crystalac in places you may have missed, sand and reprime those areas. Sand those spots then paint as you wish. You should end up with a very smooth surface. Good luck
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- D O on Jan 16, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Clean your project with water and a little dish detergent. Squeegee the Crystalac into the open grain. A little goes a long way. Let it dry and harden at least overnight. Lightly sand and then prime. Touch up with more Crystalac in places you may have missed, sand and reprime those areas. Sand those spots then paint as you wish. You should end up with a very smooth surface. Good luck
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- D O on Jan 16, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
I would use the wood filler, sand, then coat with shellac, sand with 200 grit, then finish with what ever covering your wish. This should eliminate all wood grain from showing through.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Randy N on Jan 18, 2016
- Purchased on Jun 12, 2014
Yes this product will help fill the grain and when dry sands good, follow the recommended coats and dry time. primer will then fill a lot faster.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Cherry W on Jan 15, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
Haven't used on oak, but judging by my results on tropical walnut it seems it will fill the grain much quicker than primer.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Daniel D on Jan 15, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 26, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
HOW MUCH COVERAGE PER QUART?
Bill T
on Oct 20, 2015
BEST ANSWER: My project was a 22" x 96" tabletop. 2 applications of area and less than half used. Used as directed on unfinished wood. When clear coat was applied, white blotches appeared = a lot of sanding. Checked internet forums and same issues. Thought it was just me. On stained wood, it worked great. Will cover big projects...Hope it helps
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- BOB S on Oct 20, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 4, 2015
BEST ANSWER: My project was a 22" x 96" tabletop. 2 applications of area and less than half used. Used as directed on unfinished wood. When clear coat was applied, white blotches appeared = a lot of sanding. Checked internet forums and same issues. Thought it was just me. On stained wood, it worked great. Will cover big projects...Hope it helps
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- BOB S on Oct 20, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 4, 2015
That depends when I use it as a grain filler it depends on how many coats it takes to get the job done.c I usually get about 2-3 years out of 1 quart. So it is really hard to figure our square feet. You get about 125 squart feet of coverage out of a quart of paint if that helps at all.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Dennis B on Oct 21, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 20, 2015
Bill, we have used very little of this product, we try it on a sample board 12x12 , have not used it in any other substrait
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Cherry W on Oct 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
After following the instructions and reading advice posted on rockler, I put two coats of crystalac on my mahogany piece. I went great except for, it seems to dull/not clear in certain spots. I can't figure out why these spots were different. It looked fine and level after application. I am learning constantly at this point so any advice on how to smooth out my issue is welcome. Thanks.
Bri B
on Feb 26, 2016
BEST ANSWER: This generally happens to wood that isn't stained or treated with something prior to applying this product. The only way I found to remove blotches was to sand them out, and that means the whole project usually. When you think you have sanded it down enough, take a damp cloth and wipe it to see if there are still remaining blotches, If so, keep sanding. Good Luck. I ended up just using clear coats then wet sanding-then polishing-then waxing like you would a vehicle.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- BOB S on Feb 29, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 4, 2015
BEST ANSWER: This generally happens to wood that isn't stained or treated with something prior to applying this product. The only way I found to remove blotches was to sand them out, and that means the whole project usually. When you think you have sanded it down enough, take a damp cloth and wipe it to see if there are still remaining blotches, If so, keep sanding. Good Luck. I ended up just using clear coats then wet sanding-then polishing-then waxing like you would a vehicle.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- BOB S on Feb 29, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 4, 2015
Personally only used it twice and I dyed it yellow before dieing the wood a different color after sanding for a candy effect. I didn't follow the directions because I let each coat sit over night becausee of the weather at the time I did it so I wouldn't trap any moisture. I hope this helped.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Pat R on Feb 29, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
Although the directions it works on unfinished wood, I have had no problems when a sanding sealer was used first and then the CrystaLac. That seems to be the consensus on finishing forums.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- D O on Feb 29, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
by chance did you spill some glue? This would hinder Crystalac from bonding.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Randy N on Feb 29, 2016
- Purchased on Jun 12, 2014
Vote for the best answer above!
i have already stained my oak table top and have some minor grain that i need to fill can i use this on top of the stain and then put clear urethane on or should i try to fill grain with the urethane an answer would be appreciated ?
jack o
on Feb 25, 2018
BEST ANSWER: If you put the filler over the stained surface, the stain will be removed when you sand the sealer off. It is very difficult to fill the grain with urethane. The best thing to do is put three coats of urethane on and then use the filler. When you sand down the filler make sure you only sand through the third coat off urethane so you do not damage the stain.
Jim
Jim
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Jim L on Feb 27, 2018
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
BEST ANSWER: If you put the filler over the stained surface, the stain will be removed when you sand the sealer off. It is very difficult to fill the grain with urethane. The best thing to do is put three coats of urethane on and then use the filler. When you sand down the filler make sure you only sand through the third coat off urethane so you do not damage the stain.
Jim
Jim
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Jim L on Feb 27, 2018
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
I would use the Crystalac first. I have had the best success applying thin coats with a rag and sanding with very fine sandpaper and 0000 steel wool before applying the topcoat. If you sand through to the stain, you can still touch up the stain without removing the Crystalac.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- James O on Feb 27, 2018
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2016
Vote for the best answer above!
will it yellow in sunlight?
Damien L
on Jan 14, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I don't think so. But just make sure that you use it only to fill the pores and wipe of all the rest, Let it dry properly than do the sanding . It leaves a nice smooth surface.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Paul B on Jan 14, 2017
- Purchased on Feb 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I don't think so. But just make sure that you use it only to fill the pores and wipe of all the rest, Let it dry properly than do the sanding . It leaves a nice smooth surface.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Paul B on Jan 14, 2017
- Purchased on Feb 5, 2015
Not as of yet, but I don't have anything placed where it gets prolonged direct sunlight. (filtered windows).
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Michael F on Jan 15, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 6, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Have several oak projects ...large built-ins in LR, kitchen cabinets, stairs & banisters, and bathroom vanities. I want to COMPLETELY cover and smooth the heavy oak woodgrain before painting - some black, some white. I'm a DIY-er and this is my first grain-filling project. There is a shiny clear coat on all the oak, I assume poly?? What are my steps? Can this be applied directly to the cleaned shiny poly w/ no sanding first? Then follow w/ primer? Or should I sand, prime, then do grain filler?? (I realize I need to sand between coats, just wondering if I need to sand to start.) I've researched many grain fillers, I think this one looks easiest to use, esp for a first-timer on such a big project. Please help! Much appreciated!!
J. H
on Apr 8, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Have never used this product in this fashion. But, I will say this as a x body man I never applied any kind of filler over a shinny surface because it would de-laminate over time. Sand your surface first and then go back over again with scotch bright to try to nock the shine off in the pours and then apply your grain filler.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Pat R on Apr 8, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Have never used this product in this fashion. But, I will say this as a x body man I never applied any kind of filler over a shinny surface because it would de-laminate over time. Sand your surface first and then go back over again with scotch bright to try to nock the shine off in the pours and then apply your grain filler.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Pat R on Apr 8, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
I would remove the poly first otherwise this stuff will just wipe off without penetrating. If it's raw / bare wood, specifically oak or walnut it works great. I gets it super smooth.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- casey j on Apr 8, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 4, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Is Crystalac OK for filling the grain on an EXTERIOR door?
James E L
on Nov 14, 2015
BEST ANSWER: You should be able to use it on a exterior surface, providing you use a exterior finishing product after completing the filling. Good luck.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Paul B on Nov 14, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: You should be able to use it on a exterior surface, providing you use a exterior finishing product after completing the filling. Good luck.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Paul B on Nov 14, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 5, 2015
So long as the coat you put on as your protector coat is weather resistant, this should be fine.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- david h on Mar 24, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 3, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Can this be used on vertical surfaces? If so, any suggestions?
Greg B
on Dec 2, 2017
BEST ANSWER: Yes, It’s thick consistency allows it to be used on vertical surfaces. Best to apply in several thin coats without much excess to avoid extra sanding, but it does powder pretty nicely when it comes time to sand it.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Paul Z on Dec 3, 2017
- Purchased on Dec 27, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Yes, It’s thick consistency allows it to be used on vertical surfaces. Best to apply in several thin coats without much excess to avoid extra sanding, but it does powder pretty nicely when it comes time to sand it.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Paul Z on Dec 3, 2017
- Purchased on Dec 27, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Can this product be used for the cerusing technique? I am currently putting one layer of thinned latex on raw wood oak cabinets then putting one layer of water based General Finishes High Performance Top coat and I need a tinted grain filler to accentuate the grain and then I will put two more layers of GF top coat to protect and seal the cabinets. I need a good grain filler that doesn't wipe out as easily as furniture wax, something that can be tinted and something that can be top coat sealed with GF. Would this product work? Thanks!
Ashley J
on Jan 30, 2017
BEST ANSWER: This would work, but I would put this on the Oak before anything else. Then you can finish it anyway you want.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Randy N on Jan 31, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 12, 2014
BEST ANSWER: This would work, but I would put this on the Oak before anything else. Then you can finish it anyway you want.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Randy N on Jan 31, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 12, 2014
Vote for the best answer above!
Can I use CrystaLac between Cetol 1 and Cetol 23 applications on exterior mahogany door?
Michael S
on Jun 18, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Providing the Wood is very dry , in between coats, I believe that it is ok to use it as a filler before using a good quality product for the final coats. Good luck.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Paul B on Jun 19, 2016
- Purchased on Feb 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Providing the Wood is very dry , in between coats, I believe that it is ok to use it as a filler before using a good quality product for the final coats. Good luck.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Paul B on Jun 19, 2016
- Purchased on Feb 5, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
I am building a project using Hickory, a very heavy and dense wood and plan to use a spray lacquer. The wood has been sanded to a 600 grit and I want to know if given the grit and the wood is it still recommended that I "level" it first? What is the best way to test to see if I need this?
Mark M
on Jun 2, 2016
BEST ANSWER: absolutely not with crystalac. If you absolutely want to use lacquer then the sealer will be plenty. a couple coats with the sealer followed by light sanding with 300-600 grit. then the final coat will suffice. However you may consider using a product called waterlox, which is a tung oil based finish and and is very easy to apply. I've used pre-cat lacquer for years and waterlox for years.. years after application the waterlox looks far better then any lacquer i have ever used, especially in color. I use waterlox original for the first coat, wipe on liberally reallly let it soak in, then wife off. followed by several coats of waterlox satin, wiped on then quickly wiped off.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Joseph L on Jun 2, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
BEST ANSWER: absolutely not with crystalac. If you absolutely want to use lacquer then the sealer will be plenty. a couple coats with the sealer followed by light sanding with 300-600 grit. then the final coat will suffice. However you may consider using a product called waterlox, which is a tung oil based finish and and is very easy to apply. I've used pre-cat lacquer for years and waterlox for years.. years after application the waterlox looks far better then any lacquer i have ever used, especially in color. I use waterlox original for the first coat, wipe on liberally reallly let it soak in, then wife off. followed by several coats of waterlox satin, wiped on then quickly wiped off.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Joseph L on Jun 2, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Is this heat resistant? I'm trying to line the inside of a wooden container for homemade soy candles... when the wax in thin enough during burning it soaks into the wood and seeps through all over the table. Want to make sure it won't melt off and go into the wax.
Paige B
on Oct 26, 2015
BEST ANSWER: This is strictly a grain filler, not the final coat. It requires lacquer, polyurethane or a final top coat which should water proof or wax proof your box.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Norm V on Oct 26, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 18, 2015
BEST ANSWER: This is strictly a grain filler, not the final coat. It requires lacquer, polyurethane or a final top coat which should water proof or wax proof your box.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Norm V on Oct 26, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 18, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Reviews
3.5 / 5.0
48 Reviews
5 Stars
4 Stars
3 Stars
2 Stars
1 Stars
16
14
4
5
9
Wood grain Filler
Crystalac is a water base product that is easy to apply and easy to work with. My experience was better than expected. It filled in and smoothed out the oak that I was working on making for a great finish.
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Great product
This product goes on easy and it is easy to work with. My results I wanted to accomplish was nice.
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Great filler
Crystalac is a great wood grain filler. Used it with oak and being careful with the application one coat was all that was needed.
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Good stuff
I use it a lot expecially when working with exotic woods. I apply by hand with rubber gloves and rub it in until it is not detectable to the naked eye. Then sand with my Klingspor sanding mop. Sometimes more than one coat is needs but it does the job. Particularly good where you are not applying a stain.
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Works Wonders
I found that although it takes a couple of coats, this does a great job at getting into all the grain. I used it specifically for a Red Oak cabinet and the smoothness is impressive. A Great Product.
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Easy to use
I have used various wood grain fillers, including one from a guitar material vendor, that have not been as easy to use as this product. It was easy to work with enough time to level.
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Easy
Easy to use and dries fast. A bit expensive.
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crystalac
Very good product. Expensive but wrorth it.
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Professional opinion...
There are many instances when a clear grain filler is really necessary. I'm glad this product exists.
What I've been surprised is how little is out there in the way of product guidelines and instructions for use. This stuff behaves uniquely and can have some funky interactions with our finishes.
It does dry clear, we routinely use it rather than burn-ins when the areas get large. It does tend to telegraph through until you get at least a couple of mils of film thickness over it, even if you wet sanded it out perfectly flat.
I have had little success in scrubbing out like is typical with mineral spirit and linseed-oil based traditional grain fillers. Instead, we generally find it better to use a straight edge or squeeqee to overbuild the area and then do a final cleanup wipe at the end. It's usually dry enough on thin builds to sand out in 15-30 minutes. The thicker builds we usually jump the gun and still coat while "white spots" are in it, but careful application will still allow the white to dissipate and the boil bubbles in the topcoat finish are small enough to scuff out in between coats - a real time saver. We've always hated using linseed-oil base and other slower-drying grain fillers for cycle times, and this one does not disappoint.
I read reviews about the difficulty in sanding, but the product wet sands with silicon carbide 220 or 320 just fine, and dry sands better with stearated "finish" papers better than catalyzed lacquer, so I am thinking the others opinions are more due to the fact they are used to sanding raw wood, but maybe not "fine finishes".
Anyways, your mileage may vary, but we have been happy to finally find a product that works to solve a problem that has before seemingly only had poor solutions.
What I've been surprised is how little is out there in the way of product guidelines and instructions for use. This stuff behaves uniquely and can have some funky interactions with our finishes.
It does dry clear, we routinely use it rather than burn-ins when the areas get large. It does tend to telegraph through until you get at least a couple of mils of film thickness over it, even if you wet sanded it out perfectly flat.
I have had little success in scrubbing out like is typical with mineral spirit and linseed-oil based traditional grain fillers. Instead, we generally find it better to use a straight edge or squeeqee to overbuild the area and then do a final cleanup wipe at the end. It's usually dry enough on thin builds to sand out in 15-30 minutes. The thicker builds we usually jump the gun and still coat while "white spots" are in it, but careful application will still allow the white to dissipate and the boil bubbles in the topcoat finish are small enough to scuff out in between coats - a real time saver. We've always hated using linseed-oil base and other slower-drying grain fillers for cycle times, and this one does not disappoint.
I read reviews about the difficulty in sanding, but the product wet sands with silicon carbide 220 or 320 just fine, and dry sands better with stearated "finish" papers better than catalyzed lacquer, so I am thinking the others opinions are more due to the fact they are used to sanding raw wood, but maybe not "fine finishes".
Anyways, your mileage may vary, but we have been happy to finally find a product that works to solve a problem that has before seemingly only had poor solutions.
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Smooth as glass
Great product in works as advertised
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Works great for me.
I am a little baffled by the negative reviews here. I always have good results with CrystaLac. It is not magic, but works better than any other filler I have tried. My process is simple....mix the product very well with a wooden mixing stick, use the mixing stick to slap down a few blobs of filler (enough to work about 2 square feet at a time), then squeegee down hard with a auto body filler soft plastic squeegee. Try to fill the pores, but not leave much on the surface. If done right and not too humid, it dries in 20 to 30 minutes. I use 280 grit sandpaper to finish up and repeat if the poses are still present. It is critical that you use STEARATED sandpaper or it will gum up quickly. I use CrystaLac on projects ranging from cabinetry and shelving to Pinewood Derby cars. Good stuff if used right.
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I tried
Great filler but did not wok for me ,I was trying to hide the RED in red oak cabinet grain by mixing in green tint to hide the red to the eye . The problem I had was by the time I got to the point where it did actually hide the red the stain then to hide the green was just to dark for the misses and my self we wanted light . I played with the coloring for days 9 differant proportional mixes very frustrting but that how you learn even at 72 you can still learn very exspensive exersize but you can't take it with so go for it . But the crystal lac works great as a good grain filler much better than that crap I bought years back the crystl lac goes on easylly and sands like dust even though it is very hard also drys fast which is abig plus .
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There are no shortcuts !
As a professional furniture maker for 30 years, I have tried a lot of grain fillers. I had good results with this product. After applying a generous coat of shellac to the raw wood, that was sanded to 150/180 grits, and sanding the shellac once well dried with 220 grit, I applied CrystaLac with a cloth across the grain generously with a final wipe out of excessive amount. No squeegee used. After a couple of hours, I sanded the filler with 220 grit with a sanding block for flatness, applied a coat of solvent based lacquer sanding sealer and let it sit for 4-6 hours. I sanded the sealer and observed the porosity on the wood and re applied CrytaLac as required. After several applications of lacquer, using the filler as required, it resulted in a surface totally void of grain traces and mirror like surface with either semi gloss or gloss lacquer. Finishing is not easy, folks and there are no shortcuts.
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July 19, 2015
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great product!!
Great product with a little bit of work it fills tear out in ash and other hard to work with woods, Takes a nice finish when you are done it looks like you never used the product!!
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Well, Yeah--But Still:
IMHO, the one-star folks should just stick with Minwax PolyShades and try not to go beyond that. Why? Because you test your finishing on scrap, NOT on your project! The tub I bought at the local Rockler's this winter came in about the consistency of pudding, not thin as others have suggested. Don't know if it's the 65 degree room or what. (Kudos to the Rockler folks: if the stuff EVER freezes. you will have a useless tub of artificial cottage cheese and the staff here opened every tub in stock to ensure mine was OK!) I used one of those cheap, china bristle brushes to swab on a thickish layer over my walnut crystal-stained maple test board. This dye is water-soluble and the Crystalac took a bit with it as I brushed, but not to an objectionable extent. If it had, I'd seal first with a thin wipe of shellac or solvent poly. In the time it took to clean up my brush, the stuff was just beginning to set up with a very mild latex paint odor. This was all of 3-5 minutes and I used a plastic scraper to level the material as it reached school paste consistency. Probably too much, I needed a second coat to get ready for a glassy surface. Sanded with 400, then a quick 800 pass. A few coats of Wipe-On Poly and it looks nice. Not the most chatoyance I've seen, dunno if that's the Crystalac, or poly instead of Maloof or Waterlox. Got plenty of scrap to work with, and patience as well.
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February 28, 2014
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I didn't have much luck using...
I didn't have much luck using a squeegee or putty type of knife so it sat on my shelf for quite awhile. One day I really needed something to fill in a top made of flat sawn Red Oak so I took it down, put on rubber gloves and applied it by hand and it worked like a charm. I put down large dollops and proceded to really work it in with my hands and then would smooth it out leaving a very light film all over and I then allowed it to dry over night. The next day I hit it with the sander and my pores were nicely filled. When I first used it I think I was filling the pores but when I would wipe it or use a squeegee to clean of the excess it would pull out the filler which is why this time I allowed it to completey dry and sanded off the excess.
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May 11, 2012
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Grain filler works wonders
African Mahogany has a grain that stands UP upon receiving any liquid including urethane even after sanding to 320 and using tack cloth to remove dust. Grain filler was the miracle answer to arrive at a very smooth finished surface.
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Works as advertised
Sealed the end grain of a beveled walnut table top so that it was as smooth as the top face. I would recomend this product.
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Works well on open grain strata
Usually takes two maybe three coats. It can be applied before stain, after stain and even after first coat of poly when it's obvious that some areas were missed. Easy clean up. I'd recommend the product.
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works on oak
I have used this on oak without stain. Two applications (in one day) filled in the open grain pretty well. I got a smooth finish with polyurethane varnish after three coats instead of six, with no adverse effect on color.
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Works well on Oak
Works well to fill open pores in Oak but, as the instructions suggest, be sure to do any dying/staining before applying this grain filler. Apply sparingly and scrape before it is dry. If you apply too much it will leave a haze that is difficult to remove once dried. If applied correctly it will leave the surface very smooth.
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As advertised.
Expensive and it took a lot to get all of our cabinets "de-grained" but satisfied with results.
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easiest grain filler I've used
If you need or want the grain filled on your project, this is the easiest method I've found. I have tried the oil based and found it tedious, messy and hard to clean up. I've traditionally used shellac and pumice and found it a nice finish but again, tedious. This stuff works well, and is easy to clean up. I sealed the wood with a 1# cut of shellac, worked across the grain into the pores, and polished off each coat with burlap. Excellent fill on mahogany, pretty good fill on oak. If you're worried about compatibility with oil finishes, a thin coat of shellac will seal it nicely, then you can apply any topcoat. It rubbed out beautifully with both oil and water based poly for me.
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Smooth finishing wood filler
I was working with leopardwood and kept getting defects from the natural grain characteristics. This did fill the defects so I could get a smooth finish but the only drawback was the salad bowl oil finish does not penetrate the filler evenly. Next time I would apply the finish first and then apply the filler for even color. I hope the filler sticks to the finish.
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Crystalac is very different from other...
Crystalac is very different from other non-water based grain fillers I have used. I thinned it a little bit with water, and spread it on mahogany with a brush. It seemed to fill all the pores really easily, and without much extra help from the brush, which is what I'm used to having to do. I left it on for 15-20 minutes. It stayed really wet for quite a while, maybe because I thinned it a bit. But after about 15-20 minutes it began to set up and became the consistency of pudding. At that point I troweled it off with a plastic scraper. The excess came off really easily without removing any filler from the pores. I was really happy with how cleanly it scraped, it didn't leave behind much for me to sand later. I let it dry for a few hours. Then I sanded away the excess, which wasn't much. And the sanding took me a lot less time than with other fillers I've used. I'm really happy with the results. I can't wait to try using dye for a colored fill!
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July 1, 2011
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As others have noted, instructions on...
As others have noted, instructions on product are worthless and I learned how to use it from the successful reviews here. I used two coats on my quartersawn white oak table top. It was applied with a plastic 3" putty knife which allowed me to force it into the pores. On each coat I made no attempt to leave excess material. Beyond that I did a light sanding with 320 grit paper and followed up with several coats of shellac. This product allowed me to avoid about 15-20 coats of shellac I'd otherwise do to obtain a piano finish. Although it claims to dry clear I can see it has an nearly imperceptible whitish hue. This stuff rocks!
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June 18, 2011
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I read the reviews but still...
I read the reviews but still decided to try this product. I started using it and had the same problems as everyone else, hard to sand, not filling grain at all, it seemed worthless. Then I figured it out and this product actually works really well. This is how I applied it. Work in small areas, 15" x 15", apply with a foam brush leaving a typical finish layer making sure it is pretty level. Then let it set up a little, maybe 2-3 minutes. Once it starts to get tacky, rub across the grain with burlap. I rubbed until it was almost dry. This forces the filler into the grain, it also leaves a very thin layer on the surface which makes sanding very easy about an hour later. After two coats, the grain on my walnut burl table was completely filled. Hope this helps some people out.
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February 24, 2010
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Did the job for me. You...
Did the job for me. You have to apply very very thin coats and scrape off most of the filler before it dries. Then wait to sand, so that you get a thin white powder residue. Of course I was not trying to fill a table-top to mirror finish, but just smoothing over some African mahogany that had the fuzzy stripes in between the smooth stripes. I got a smooth surface as a result with the grain still all there.
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October 17, 2009
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I can understand why so many...
I can understand why so many people who have purchased this product were disappointed. The directions on the package are misleading. After finding out that it loaded up the sandpaper after the time recommended on the instructions, I let it cure for a full 48 hours prior to sanding aggressively with 220 grit and applying a second coat. After that, I let it sit for another 48 hours and sanded again. After 4 coats of wiping varnish, I got a mirror finish on a table top made of Honduras mahogany and walnut. I have had a similar experience on other projects. I recommend applying the first coat over a water based sanding sealer. True, it requires two coats of this product to do the job, but it does work well and it doesn't obscure the beauty of the wood like other fillers I have used.
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January 16, 2009
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This product has saved a project...
This product has saved a project more than once. A maple burl coffee table would have used 20 or more coats to get where it is now, if ever. It fills clear,hard, and ready to sand. Okay it's not easy, but there is no other product that can do what it can do. Don't let the poor ratings fool you, take the time to learn this product you will like what it can do for you.
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November 15, 2008
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When I first applied this product...
When I first applied this product over a water-based brown mahogany stain, it took the stain off. I had to sand back down to the bare wood and start over! I applied the grain filler first. I appled two coats of grain filler, wiped accross the grain each time as recommeded in another review and then stained again. The results were pretty good with this process.The instructions on the container and the website are worthless.
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August 7, 2010
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After some trial and error (the...
After some trial and error (the instructions are pretty close to worthless), I managed to learn a few key points. Being thin bodied, it soaks in more than you would think. As a result, you can't be to quick to remove the "excess". I apply it liberally working it in with a rubber squeegee with an eye to leaving a thin layer proud of the wood surface. After about 45 minutes, you can remove any excess product with a plastic body putty spreader (it will be pasty at this point). You may also see dry spots where the original layer was too thin and completely soaked in to the wood. I take this opportunity to work the excess paste scraped from other areas into those dry spots. Using this technique has given me pretty much a complete fill in luann with only one coat. Wait at least 36 hours to sand (48 or more is better) and the sand paper won't clog as quickly. Like all fillers and finishes though, drying time varies considerably based on conditions. If your sand paper loads up rather than giving you a fine white powder, stop sanding and let it dry longer. All in all, it's a finicky product but produces results (a clear, stainable filler) that I haven't been able to get with other products.
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February 14, 2010
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Cons: Not enough instructions with the...
Cons: Not enough instructions with the product. Plugs up sandpaper in seconds. Took too many coats to get to the advertised finish. Pros: Easy to use after some experiments. Easy clean up. Even though it took many application I did get the finish I wanted on a walnut cabinet. Over-all I did like this product better than others I've used but it looks like it could be a little thicker or pastier (if that's a word).
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June 30, 2009
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This is a tough one. It...
This is a tough one. It solved a problem I was having, but it was not as easy as it seems. Your sandpaper will gum up in literally seconds, so be prepared for that. The end result however, is what I needed, and that was a filler that was unnoticed.
Editor's note:Allow more drying time and sandpaper will do much better. See other reviews for more advice on this.
Editor's note:Allow more drying time and sandpaper will do much better. See other reviews for more advice on this.
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May 22, 2009
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Didn't exactly work.
I found that the product was difficult to build in the grains of my walnut test pieces even with 2-3 applications. It is fast drying, which depending on your application method makes it difficult to work with. However, the most disappointing characteristic is that it dried clear....... until my clear coat went on. For some reason once I sprayed my varnish all the filler turned milky white again and made the piece useless.
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First of all its not like pancake batter. Very thick and drys almost on contact. Working time is very short. Maybe this was an older batch and on the shelf for a period of time. Will not order again. Found it hard to work with.Cost is extreme for what you get. Very little instructions or how it may be thinned.
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Wood grain filler.
Very disappointed in the filler. It leaves white glow on the timber. It is not a clear filler as stated.
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Fills fairly well disregard the instructions...
Fills fairly well disregard the instructions with a couple of coats. Let dry a couple of days before sanding. The problem is, it's very hard to get a uniform color on unstained wood. When you use poly or shellac slightly amber toned over a sanded filled surface, the hard clear finish must be completely sanded off, or you get a blotchy color. However, that much sanding cuts back down to the filled grain. I've only had some success using this stuff with Crystalac's finish coat product. If you don't really need a water clear finish, use a conventional filler and save yourself a lot of grief.
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February 17, 2012
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While the clarity of this product...
While the clarity of this product is good, the actual process of grain filling requires more work than the marketing would lead you to believe. I practiced on a piece of white oak and found that filling the pores to a "level surface" required several passes at filling and sanding. As this is a fairly thin product, you need to be careful about the product dripping over sharp edges or puddling, which are quite difficult to remove once cured.
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January 25, 2008
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Do not waste your time or money
Not impressed, makes more work trying to sand it off then it would have taken to just sand and apply a couple coats of finish
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inferior wood filler
By far the worst wood filler we have ever used.
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Does Not Dry Clear
My first attempt with this stuff was pretty disappointing. Every little thing that was a little too deep, as in the deeper grains, dings, dents, etc.. These were very small and should have dried clear and didn't, I even waited 3-4 days and nope, still milky white. I had to dig those spots out with a tiny razor blade edge. My next attempts were exactly the same. All projects were different species of wood. I experimented with sealed wood and raw wood and "ALL' attempt were the same thing, I had tiny white specks that never cleared. I was also putting it on at such a minuet amount it should dry 100% clear. I'm very unhappy with this product. It's way too expensive and you have to buy enough to last for 100 years.
I will use this junk for painted things but as far as clear coats over a nice piece of wood ?.. Forget it, what a waste of time
I will use this junk for painted things but as far as clear coats over a nice piece of wood ?.. Forget it, what a waste of time
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Took multiple coats with sanding in between and still did not properly fill the grain.
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CrystaLac
I found this product to be less than desirable!
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I tried trowel, I tried scraper,...
I tried trowel, I tried scraper, I tried burlap. With the grain, against the grain, wiped off after 3 minutes. Nothing usable. Don't waste your time.
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June 7, 2012
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The problem with this product is...
The problem with this product is that you cannot trowel/squeege off all of the filler before you set it to dry, After it drys, by the time you sanded off all of the crystallac you have essentially sanded down to where the filler did not reach to begin with. Also if you don't get all of it off and I mean all, you will have imperfections in your final piece after finishing. Nice idea but not practically possible. Try calling the number on the label sometime if you want some added entertainment/frustration.
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January 31, 2012
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I have to echo the comments...
I have to echo the comments of the other users. I ended up applying two coats and should have stopped at one. The product did not fill the grain and left a coat of material on the desktop that has been a bear to sand off. The dried product clogs up my sander and there are streak marks still showing after going over everything with 80 grit. After all of this I can't say that it did anything to fill the pores.
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October 14, 2008
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I was not impressed. Maybe I...
I was not impressed. Maybe I need more practice with this product, but I found it didn't fill the grain all that well and was difficult to sand smooth without affecting the stain. I suggest removing all unused product from the wood surface to avoid any sanding. You have to do this quickly before it sets up or you get a sticky mess. I still ended up applying a multi-coat wiping vannish. It did better on natural wood, but still required a multi-coat wiping vanish cover.
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October 13, 2007
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Our price is lower than the manufacturer's "minimum advertised price." As a result, we cannot show you the price in catalog or the product page.
You have no obligation to purchase the product once you know the price. You can simply remove the item from your cart.
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