plans for the deluxe cabinet were something to be desired.
Posted December 21, 2013
The plans for such a detailed piece of functioning furniture needs to be looked at very seriously, I am an advanced wood worker and I have never experienced such a misleading blueprint in the entire time I have been wood working. The door dimensions were the worst, I cut everything to the exact dimension to the blueprint and the doors ending up being 3/8" too short and 5/16" to narrow.
I think Jan Hale Svec needs to re thinks these plans
First, the plans were chronologically written,...
Posted May 27, 2013
First, the plans were chronologically written, however you have to refer to the drawings as well as written narrative as everything is not in the narrative. As other reviewers wrote, this is a fairly complex piece and some of the tolerances leave little room for error in measurements and positioning of hinges. The biggest issue is the width of the opening which is 22 3/4 ". Newer quilting sewing machines have deeper throats meaning a wider machine. Before starting, I strongly suggest a paper template that measures the 22 3/4" wide, then position the sewing machine as far to the right without going off the paper, and then look at where the needle on the sewing machine is positioned on the paper/opening. The needle is where business takes place and your seamstress is going to want it as close to center on the opening as possible. I ended up rebuilding the right side of the base from scratch and narrowed it to the same width as the right side. This gave me an extra 6 inches in the opening so I could move the machine to the right 6 inches which brought the needle closer to center although still left of center- it was at least useable without my wife having to straddle the drawers on the left. Another option is to leave out the right side base altogether. Other changes I made, I made raised panel doors, used oak instead of cherry, made the feet 1/2" shorter but wider and deeper to accommodate and hide casters. This is a very heavy piece. I used old wooden spools of thread for the door handles that came from my grandmother's sewing stuff. I coated them several times with polyurethane for protection. I used the recommended lift, and it is well worth the money, but it didn't come with mounting screws. I also used the recommended "hardware package" , and several of the brass screws, washers, etc. as well as screws for putting this piece together were not included. I also didn't use the provided door knobs, so for me those were a waste.
This cabinet was made for me...
Posted August 15, 2011
This cabinet was made for me by a carpenter that lived 4 hrs south of me but I knew him and his workmanship from previous work he had done in our home. He made me a beautiful cabinet that is solid oak and he also added an extension on the back for me. There is a definite flaw in the pattern/directions. The sewing machine should not be centered to the opening where you sit, the needle area should be. I was really disappointed when I picked up my cabinet with my sewing machine in it and saw how it was sitting in the cabinet. I have to sit off centered with my legs touching the drawers on the left hand side and even that doesn't really put me in front of my needle. My suggestion is to either leave off the drawer and opening on the right hand side and move the lift mechanism over that way or at least make that area 1/2 the size it is so that the lift mechanism is more to the right side of the table. I wish I lived closer when the cabinet was being made so that I could have checked it out at different stages and maybe the cabinet would have gotten modified. I didn't ask the carpenter what he thought about the pattern/directions so I don't know if they were easy or hard to understand.
Built the piece shown below from...
Posted April 8, 2011
Built the piece shown below from these plans. The finished product followed the Sewing Center plans exactly with a couple of additions to fit the needs of the owner. The piece was placed on ball casters so it can be easily moved about and a drop leaf extension was added to the back of the unit. The drop leaf swings up on a continuous piano hinge, two folding legs under the leaf swing down and lock into place to provide support. This drop leaf extension provides a large work space behind the sewing machine that is almost 24 deep. This work space is useful when sewing large items such as quilts or curtains. With this drop leaf added, this piece has 19 sq. feet of work space when fully opened up. The piece was finished with General Finishes oil base stain Salem and two coats of Waterlox satin finish. The entire piece save the door panels, drawer sides and bottoms, is constructed of solid red oak. It took almost 80 board feet of 1 rough sawn red oak to make this project. Figuring on $2 a b/f for the oak lumber, $250.00 for the hardware and another $45.00 for stain, finish and other supplies, cost of this piece comes in just under $500.00. I probably have 160 hours of time invested in the construction. The plans offered here for this cabinet are far better than the norm. All of the measurements provided were true and extensive step-by-step instructions took the guess work out of how to proceed. I only found a few areas of concern or confusion which I will attempt to outline here:The plans are drawn up for construction of this cabinet using hardwood veneer plywoods for the large surfaces pieces. The plans do not give you a detailed cut material list for solid wood construction. If you want to construct this piece using solid hardwoods you must modify some of the measurements shown on the plans take some time to digest the diagram and instructions and carefully lay out these changes before you start tearing up expensive hardwood boards.The lift mechanism now sold for this piece has changed slightly from the one that is shown in the plans. On the plans it shows this lift mechanism centered in the opening between the two pedestals, mounted on the back of the unit and flush with the lower top panel. The measurement given on the plans however 13 3/8 from the left pedestal side to the center of the lift places the lift mechanism several inches right of center within the opening area. This is confusing as the detail drawing on the plans shows this device centered in this area. I found that placing the lift mechanism right of center as far as possible is best. Placing the lift in this position best aligns the work space of the machine, the needle which is at the far left side of the sewing machine, as close as possible to the center line of the opening area where the operator will be seated. When cutting the hole in the lower top for the sewing machine to lift through, only use the plans as a general guide. The sewing machine depicted in the plans is an older style machine with a housing that is more square than most of the modern machines. Study the machine that will be used with the piece being constructed and customize the opening and free arm replacement yoke piece to fit. Again, these plans are far better than most and easy to follow and I would recommend them however, even though the plans are clear and concise, this is a moderately complicated piece to complete. I would not suggest this project to someone who did not already possess better than average abilities in cabinet construction.
I just finished building this for...
Posted October 2, 2010
I just finished building this for my wife and she is very happy with it, I did alot of upgrades and used oak plywood and red oak trim, it's really nice.