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Top quality bits that meet the high demands of Rockler Woodworking and Hardware.
 These
larger bits are designed to be used in a router
table.
Router Bit Set-Up Jigs - Set your
router bit to the precise height every time! Simply bring the router bit up through
the table and align the jig with the cutting edge of the bit.
Router
Safety Tips:
It's easy to prevent mishaps if you take a few simple precautions.
1) Rockler recommends using 1/2'' shank router bits whenever possible.
1/2'' shanks provide better stability with less vibration to produce a smoother
cut and longer cutter life.
2) Make multiple light passes rather than one heavy cut.
3) Install your router bit so that 90% of the shank is inside the
collet. Here's a rule of thumb: fully insert the bit, then pull it back
1/16 to 1/8 of an inch.
4) Use a router table whenever possible.
5) When using large diameter bits, reduce the RPM of your router.
Then test your set-up on scrap lumber.
6) Always follow your router manufacturer's recommendations. |
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Customer Reviews and Photos for:
45° Lock Miter Router Bit
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Average Rating:
(3.4)
(13 customer reviews)
Add your review...
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1) Submitted by
Don Lucas, from Eugene, OR
on 12/19/2008
Customer Rating: 
Bit is high quality and makes good, clean cuts, IF--
you are extremely careful and precise in your setups. I believe that a good quality router table, fence system, and "sled fixture" are absolutely mandatory, for successful cuts with this bit. Be extra careful when you are cutting the "half of the joint" where the work piece must be held in a vertical position. Do not even think about trying to hold the work piece "by hand" and guide it along the router table fence. The work piece must be firmly clamped in a suitable fixture (I used my table saw tenoning jig, for the vertical cuts). You only get "one chance" with this bit. If the work piece moves the slightest amount during the cut, the joint will be "sloppy and loose".
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2) Submitted by
Richard Herman, from Suwanee, GA
on 12/3/2008
Customer Rating: 
I am building a toy box for my brand-new grandson (so I have a little time to finish it). I set it up in my router table (did not order/use the jig), made a couple of small adjustments, ran both edges through on the same setting, and whipped all four sides (eight cuts) in no time at all. It worked exactly as advertised.
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3) Submitted by
Mike Elliott, from Richmond, TX
on 3/8/2009
Customer Rating: 
This bit will produce very nice results but a tenon jig or something like it MUST be used for making the vertical cross grain end cuts on smaller stock like 1 1x4 or a 1x6 which is exactly the type of cut that you will be making for small jewelry boxes, etc. If you try and make it without the tenon jig your results will be poor and you very well might be seriously injured in the process. If your cute are long vertical cute then it will not mater and the bit will work just fine without the tenon jig. I repeat, the vertical cut with this bit is very dangerous without the use of a tenon jig to hold the material steady and secure. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS BIT. My rating of only a 3 is because of the dangerous nature of this produce, not its result.
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4) Submitted by
Ted Trask, from Wichita, KS
on 10/1/2008
Customer Rating:
I am building a bed for my Grandson and wanted to make the corner posts of the head board and footboard out of quarter sawn white oak with face grain showing on all 4 sides. I cut this profile on about 115 lineal feet of 1" white oak stock after putting a 45 bevel on each edge of all 16 components on the table saw. (both edges of 4 sides of 4 posts.) This was my first experience with this and after lots of trial and error getting set up finally got started. The bit performed very well.
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5) Submitted by
Terry, from Milwaukie, OR
on 10/20/2008
Customer Rating:
I bought this bit, and the setup jig. The setup jig didn't fit the blade profile, so I tossed it! After many test cuts, and adjustments, I was able to get nice clean cuts. Using baltic birch (void free)plywood the trick is to move the fence and make multiple passes. Instead of taping a guide block, I made a sled fixture to hold the workpiece square and flush to the fence. I also discovered that the bit setup is different for corners than flat joints. After you get it, be sure to make your own setup jigs! Overall, this is a decent bit, but due to the setup difficulty I rate it good.
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6) Submitted by
Steven Bommelje, from Visalia, CA
on 9/26/2009
Customer Rating:
First time I used it, it wasn't a good experience on 3/4 oak. Oak splinters - it's too much bite for one pass. This time I set up the fence & bit height and verified with a sample. I clamped a second fence behind the router fence to hold that final position and inserted 1/4 and 1/8 spacers between reducing the depth of cut. Four passes increasing the depth of cut worked.
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7) Submitted by
Butch, from Vista, CA
on 3/2/2007
Check closely if you purchase the set-up jig (53817) to ensure it is the right profile. Sometime over the years the profile has been changed slightly and the jig did not match the 22627 Lock Miter bit which I had purchased previously. Take some time and make your own set-up blocks from materials of thicknesses you tend to work with most of the time. The lock miter bit when properly set up works great, I've used mine for years.
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See all
13 reviews...
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