This powerful vise is perfect for custom workbenches. A quick-release mechanism engages with a 1/4 turn of the handle, letting you make major adjustments almost instantaneously. Two 3/4" dia. solid steel guide rods provide absolute resistance to racking, while an extra-wide 9" wide handle-plate delivers maximum stability to handle any project. Includes a solid hardwood handle. Wooden jaw plate not included.
- 3/4" diameter guide rods keep jaws parallel, even when clamping narrow objects on one side of the vise.
- Handle plate arrives pre-drilled and ready to accept wooden jaws (not included).
- Mounts easily with 1/4" lag bolts (not included).
- 8-3/4" overall travel before adding wooden jaw.
- 6" on-center guide rods.
- Includes hardwood handle.
- Mounting hardware (1/4" lag bolts) not included.
Good function but improvements could be madePosted January 15, 2014
Here are the tricks I discovered when installing:
* I used #14 flat-head wood screws on the back jaw rather than hex-head lag screws. The holes are cone-shaped and hex heads don't really fit. You could also use machine bolts with a conical head if your benchtop has multiple layers or something to allow you to hide a nut.
* I worry about the screws pulling out primarily because the front of the back jaw piece is not square. This means it only has an edge against the wood in front of it, instead of a face. Someone else mentioned using a spacer washer to tilt the back jaw up and flatten it against the wood; I considered that, but it makes the front jaw not square, so I'm going to try without it (if the screws pull out, I'll switch to bolts). I clamped the vice hard to the back jaw board while screwing it on, so hopefully closing the vice won't be able to pull much further and start to tug the screws.
* The front jaw needs #12 flat-head wood screws to fit the conical holes most closely. However my #12 hinge bit didn't work (its outer centering part was much too small). A transfer punch doesn't work well either because the hole has no straight sides. You have to eyeball it. (Which did work OK.)
* If you make the holes for the vice shafts too large, then two of the front face screws are dangerously close to them. This worked out OK but it lowers your margin for error. You can't make the holes larger than 1 inch or so, for the 3/4 inch shafts, so you have 1/8 inch margin for error.
* Take pictures as you disassemble to be sure you know how all the parts are oriented, and then it's easy to reassemble. In particular the orientation of the quick release nut.
So the obvious improvements: flatten the front of the back jaw piece; change instructions to say flat-head screws instead of lag screws; include diagrams in the instructions showing how to reassemble. Also make the front-face screw holes a standard #12 size so a hinge bit or center punch works.
I'd also like to see a couple more screw holes in the back jaw piece. The attachment of this piece to the bench is certainly what will fail, if my vice installation fails. If the jaw face were square, in theory there might not be so much force on the screws; square that face and add a couple more screws and I wouldn't have any worries even with a thin benchtop.