Overview
These hard-to-find fasteners make building a bed a snap. One pack of four fasteners will complete a bed. Features quick assembly and disassembly. Requires mortising for recessed mounting. Can be Installed with mallet, chisel, drill bits and drill. Made of heavy steel.
Questions and Answers
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and 89 answers
what is the depth of these brackets item#2859?
BEST ANSWER: The most accurate dimensions are in metric units. Each plate is 14.9 cm long, 1.5 cm (15 mm) wide, and 4 mm thick. Each hook is also 4 mm thick, and extends just 7 mm deep (NOT 1/2") into the post, IN ADDITION to the 4 mm plate thickness. Plates are slightly tapered on the sides only, with the inside width being about 14 mm wide. Both plates are the same size. The back side of the "hooks" are riveted and extend 2.5 mm behind the rail plate. Each riveted "head" on the back of each hook is small, 6 mm wide and 8 mm tall. Each plate has three tapered screw holes to take flat head screws. The whole thing seems to be very sturdy and well-made.
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- Dean G on Apr 22, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 7, 2015
I have and antique double bed. Can I use this product to add on a piece of wood to make the bed longer or do I have to put in a whole new length of rail?
BEST ANSWER: You would want to put on a new length of rail
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- Rick H Staff on Aug 31, 2015
Hi guys, I need help...Can these be used in triple tier bunk bed making? I've searched for weeks & whilst I have nut and 120mm m6 bolts my initial intention was to keep the bunks as streamline as possible without compromising safety. I'm using 4 2meter 2x4 posts with 2x6 side rails. Would the weight distribute evenly? Pls recommend a more HD type if known . Thanks
BEST ANSWER: Since each tier would be separately attached to your posts, there ought not be a problem of weight distribution. I'm assuming that the bunk bed is not intended for three overweight adults, but rather three kids, so the total weight should not be a problem with the 2X4 posts, as the rails assure that the bulk of the weight is transmitted straight down the posts. If you want to be super fail safe, you could structure a ledge on the posts just below the bottom of the side rails, but I really don't think it's necessary and it would make the design appear heavier. Good luck!
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- Sergio P on Nov 16, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
How wide do I make the mortise 9/16 or 5/8 ?
BEST ANSWER: The fasteners are 5/8. I didn't need to make the mortises, but I believe they should be very close to 5/8. I replaced some fasteners that had already been made and the fit had no noticeable margin. The fasteners dropped in flush on both sides. But the instructions say to bevel the sides of the mortise, so perhaps 9/16 beveled to 5/8 is what is wanted.
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- Dale T on Aug 9, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 20, 2015
Hi, What's the optimum screw size for these (6") ?
BEST ANSWER: Frankly don't remember and as the bed I used them on is assembled, can't really check; they're either #6 or #8. Suggest you take one of the fittings to the hardware store when you get the screws. The important thing is to get them as large as possible for strength, but small enough that the head does not protrude above the surface at all. Even a slight protrusion will prevent the fasteners from fitting together.
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- Dean G on Dec 10, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 7, 2015
I am building an upholstered bed, would these work for installation on the outside of the upholstery?
BEST ANSWER: My impression would be "no," but as long as you kept the two mating surfaces clear and separate, then I see no reason why you couldn't make it work. ...But not outside the upholstery; they have to be inletted into the post and the rail. Good luck.
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- Dean G on Jul 16, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 7, 2015
Can this withstand the seasons of used for an outdoor lounge bed?
BEST ANSWER: My use for this product has been for a bed inside and not outside.
We have had no problems with this hardware and it has held up very well.
I would expect it to work well for an outside bed.
One suggestion - be very careful to install this product correctly.
I did a trial run on 2 boards that were similar to what I would be using for the actual bed.
This proved to be a very good idea because I did not get it done correctly the first time.
I hope this helps.
dan
We have had no problems with this hardware and it has held up very well.
I would expect it to work well for an outside bed.
One suggestion - be very careful to install this product correctly.
I did a trial run on 2 boards that were similar to what I would be using for the actual bed.
This proved to be a very good idea because I did not get it done correctly the first time.
I hope this helps.
dan
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- Dan S on May 20, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 3, 2015
Would you recommend this for a full size loft bed?
BEST ANSWER: The fasteners are strong and tight-fitting, if installed carefully and securely. Absolutely must be inlet into wood. If that's done, should work fine.
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- Dean G on Jan 20, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 7, 2015
Can these be safely installed on 1x6 poplar bed rails?
BEST ANSWER: Yes they can it works well
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- Curtis R on Nov 19, 2016
- Purchased on Dec 26, 2014
Are the slots set up on the standard 2" spacing? I want to use an existing frame with hooks and need a mortised mate.
BEST ANSWER: I didn't have existing hooks to check them on since I was making a new bed. You could probably replace the existing hook plate with the one in the set. This set worked great for me and I would recommend them.
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- Jim T on Oct 29, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 29, 2015
Building the 3 in one crib for my Granddaughters(yup twins!) in Wood Magazine (2006). I don't like the fasteners recommended. Can I use these fasteners, or are the fasteners restricted by code?
BEST ANSWER: I don't know about the code, but I used these on my king size bed and I think they are great.
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- Arthur S on May 23, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 13, 2015
How deep do the screw go?
BEST ANSWER: That is really set by your screw choice, these brackets don't include screws.
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- Kurt B on May 31, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 18, 2015
These fasteners where used to contruct beds we purchased for our boys years ago. Now I am considering lengthening the beds to accomodate extra-long mattresses which would entail removing and reinstalling the brackets on new, longer side rails. So, question, how easy and what is the best way to install these?
BEST ANSWER: Should be fairly easy. See my reply (Dean G) above. Basically, all you'll need to do is inlet the rail sections into the ends of the new rails, which mainly involves some careful chiseling. Good luck!
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- Dean G on May 26, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 7, 2015
I guess I should have asked can you install them in reverse?
BEST ANSWER: Not sure what you are asking but they will work if you reverse the male end on the post and install the female side on the rail.
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- Patrick G B on Jun 24, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 4, 2015
I have a homeowner that would like to use the heavy duty wrought steel bedrail fasteners on their bunkbed ladders so the can be moved when needed. I was wondering if you have it in on one hook system instead of the double hook?
BEST ANSWER: I wouldn't use these for bunkbed ladders. They work great for bed rails that are fit very tight. If they are the least bit loose, they will not stay fastened, even with the downward force naturally occurring under use. In fact, I would not personally use them for a top bunk in bunkbed applications because of the natural behavior of children [Kicking the top rails while in the bottom bunk seems much too likely for me.
I made a very tight fit in the beds I have used them on, and have provided a dead blow mallet with each bed so that they can be easily assembled and disassembled.
I use the double hook fasteners. I wouldn't trust single hook units in bed applications.
I made a very tight fit in the beds I have used them on, and have provided a dead blow mallet with each bed so that they can be easily assembled and disassembled.
I use the double hook fasteners. I wouldn't trust single hook units in bed applications.
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- Dale T on Dec 8, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 20, 2015
Are these peices of hardware made in the United States of America?
brackets randomly come loose is there a possible reason for this or solution? I'm hoping that it is because the hooks are not fully engaging so the plates can just be shimmed.
BEST ANSWER: If the plates are inletted even just a tiny bit too much, or if the screw heads protrude even slightly above the surface, it will prevent them from fully engaging. Also, if the wood behind and below the slots isn't sufficiently removed, that will keep the hooks from fully engaging, as well. As you've undoubtedly noted, these fasteners are very solid and tight-fitting.
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- Dean G on Feb 1, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 7, 2015
Reviews
4.4 / 5.0
112 Reviews
Excellent product. When installed properly, makes...
Excellent product. When installed properly, makes for a very solid bed frame. Some of the reviews mention two problems: 1 the middle screw for the female piece interferes with the hook on the male piece. 2 The height of the male and female pieces don't match up. These problems are both caused by installing the female piece upside down. Another potential problem is that the screws for the male piece screw into end grain on the bed rail and might work loose over time. This can be resolved by drilling a 1/2" diameter hole from the underside of each bed frame end and inserting a 1/2" diameter wood dowel. The hole and dowel should be positioned about 1" from the end of the bed frame so that the screws will screw into the dowel which will solve the end grain problem.
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February 7, 2011
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Product works fine but you'll have...
Product works fine but you'll have to let it in to the bed rail about 1/16" below flush so that the bed rail binds against the bedpost. We'll see how it works over time.
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January 26, 2008
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I have ordered four sets, and...
I have ordered four sets, and every one has needed filing before the two halves would mesh properly. Luckily, it doesn't take too much filing.
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July 12, 2009
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Was I surprised!!
Let me say one thing first......these bed rail fasteners are absolutely awesome and here is why:
Late last October (2016) I decided to build a heavy duty Mission style bed frame. After sleeping in many a bed (I'm 63) with a headboard that was "shaky" or "wobbly"..... my first concern was how I was going to attach the bedrails to the headboard and footboard so I wouldn't wind up with that problem. It was critical that I had an absolutely solid bed platform/frame that didn't budge at all.
I read all the reviews on these fasteners and realized that they could possibly be my answer but I wasn't 100% positive. After stressing over it for a while I said what the heck, I will give them a try. If they don't work out then I will find some other fastening hardware and learn my lesson.
I kept in mind one particular reviewer that made a point of mentioning the fact that the part with the "hooks" were not welded and really should have been. So when I got mine I had my next door neighbor do a spot weld on the back side of the fastener where the hook is attached and crimped. At least I think it was crimped or maybe pressed in there....idk. Point being......this is an absolute must. Especially if you are working with a heavy duty frame like I was. I mean hey, it only took him 10 minutes. Well worth it.
Next important step is to try and get your mortise depth as accurate as possible. It really does make a difference. If you are too deep then the rail won't seat. If your are not deep enough, the wood rail will not touch the mating surface of the head board of footboard. After I mortised all the parts I found that I had mortised a touch too deep. That made the rail too tight and even trying to carefully hammer it down into place with a rubber mallet wasn't going to work. The answer was to shim the fastener back out a touch using card stock. I found that each of the 4 joints needed a shim or maybe 2 shims. It was that precise. This worked well as I was able to "dial-in" each joint to perfection.
For me......having to hammer down on each joint a bit, not very hard though (just enough to seat the joint properly) made the connection super strong. (My rails were about 6" in height) I then made sure to dry fit each joint before applying the finish which was 4 coats of hand rubbed Teak oil.
Another important thing I should mention: make sure you bore a hole and glue in a dowel near the end of the rails due to the fact that you want the screws for the fasteners to bite into side grain wood of the dowel instead of just the end grain of the rail. In my case I had 1" thick rails so I used a 1/2" dowel.
So after dry fitting each joint and then applying the finish the day finally came to set up the bed. I was anxious. What if the bed was unsturdy and wobbled?.......I certainly didn't want to have to dissasemble the whole bed and take it back into the shop to figure out some other way to fasten the bed together, not after all that work mortising in these fasteners. But.....to my amazement, the bed came together perfectly, and I have to say, I was amazed at how strong the rails attached and made the bed absolutely solid and rigid!....My headboard is about 45" tall. If I stand and try to push on the footboard the bed will not budge a fraction of an inch. If I try to push at the top of the headboard it might budge 1/32"......maybe! I was totally blown away.
So, if your are on the fence about buying these fasteners, do not hesitate. They will be strong and rigid if mortised in properly, and you will have a solid frame that can easily be knocked down and taken apart.
Just as a side note: I am a cabinet/furniture maker and have been in the business almost 40 years. My bed frame is made from solid white oak. The finish is Seafin Teak oil, 4 coats hand rubbed.
Late last October (2016) I decided to build a heavy duty Mission style bed frame. After sleeping in many a bed (I'm 63) with a headboard that was "shaky" or "wobbly"..... my first concern was how I was going to attach the bedrails to the headboard and footboard so I wouldn't wind up with that problem. It was critical that I had an absolutely solid bed platform/frame that didn't budge at all.
I read all the reviews on these fasteners and realized that they could possibly be my answer but I wasn't 100% positive. After stressing over it for a while I said what the heck, I will give them a try. If they don't work out then I will find some other fastening hardware and learn my lesson.
I kept in mind one particular reviewer that made a point of mentioning the fact that the part with the "hooks" were not welded and really should have been. So when I got mine I had my next door neighbor do a spot weld on the back side of the fastener where the hook is attached and crimped. At least I think it was crimped or maybe pressed in there....idk. Point being......this is an absolute must. Especially if you are working with a heavy duty frame like I was. I mean hey, it only took him 10 minutes. Well worth it.
Next important step is to try and get your mortise depth as accurate as possible. It really does make a difference. If you are too deep then the rail won't seat. If your are not deep enough, the wood rail will not touch the mating surface of the head board of footboard. After I mortised all the parts I found that I had mortised a touch too deep. That made the rail too tight and even trying to carefully hammer it down into place with a rubber mallet wasn't going to work. The answer was to shim the fastener back out a touch using card stock. I found that each of the 4 joints needed a shim or maybe 2 shims. It was that precise. This worked well as I was able to "dial-in" each joint to perfection.
For me......having to hammer down on each joint a bit, not very hard though (just enough to seat the joint properly) made the connection super strong. (My rails were about 6" in height) I then made sure to dry fit each joint before applying the finish which was 4 coats of hand rubbed Teak oil.
Another important thing I should mention: make sure you bore a hole and glue in a dowel near the end of the rails due to the fact that you want the screws for the fasteners to bite into side grain wood of the dowel instead of just the end grain of the rail. In my case I had 1" thick rails so I used a 1/2" dowel.
So after dry fitting each joint and then applying the finish the day finally came to set up the bed. I was anxious. What if the bed was unsturdy and wobbled?.......I certainly didn't want to have to dissasemble the whole bed and take it back into the shop to figure out some other way to fasten the bed together, not after all that work mortising in these fasteners. But.....to my amazement, the bed came together perfectly, and I have to say, I was amazed at how strong the rails attached and made the bed absolutely solid and rigid!....My headboard is about 45" tall. If I stand and try to push on the footboard the bed will not budge a fraction of an inch. If I try to push at the top of the headboard it might budge 1/32"......maybe! I was totally blown away.
So, if your are on the fence about buying these fasteners, do not hesitate. They will be strong and rigid if mortised in properly, and you will have a solid frame that can easily be knocked down and taken apart.
Just as a side note: I am a cabinet/furniture maker and have been in the business almost 40 years. My bed frame is made from solid white oak. The finish is Seafin Teak oil, 4 coats hand rubbed.
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Once I figured out how to...
Once I figured out how to mortise the ends of the rails the hardware was easily enough installed. I installed them in a bed I use in my tent for camping. For a bed that will be assembled and left in place they are fine, but a bed that is assembled and disassembled often they are not so good. The tenons tend to come out of the mortises when moving the bed. I drilled the posts just above the rails and inserted short dowels to lock in the rails. Now I can assemble the bed where there is plenty of room, then move it into the corner without the whole thing coming apart.
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October 27, 2008
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I used these fasteners on a...
I used these fasteners on a classic cherry bed I built in 2005. They failed this month (12/09), probably due to my (now) 7 year old jumping off the footboard onto the mattress. The tabs on the male fastener pulled through the plate, dropping the bed rails to the floor. Two of the four tabs in the foot end of the bed pulled through outright, the others were bent and ready to fail in the same manner.I can't stop a kid from jumping on the bed, and I'll replace these fasteners with same so I don't have to rework the bed - but fingers are crossed. I cannot recommend these for a bunk bed!
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December 15, 2009
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A very well made product. One...
A very well made product. One fault I have found is that over time the hook becomes loose which allows the whole bed to shake. If the hook is welded to the plate before use it remains tight.
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April 11, 2010
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You may be interested to know...
You may be interested to know that the 4" fasteners will not fully seat together in their current configuration if all three screws are installed. The center screw interferes with the upper hook on the hook portion and prohibits the hook side from fully seating. Filing a little bit more than 1/8" from the point on the upper hook will allow proper seating. Of course, one can simply eliminate the center screw on the slotted side, but I don't recommend that.
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April 15, 2008
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The middle screw must be left...
The middle screw must be left out on the female fitting, as it will interfere with the male hook. Additional tenons must also be cut for back side of hook that is stamped in - not welded. [] Rockler has always been my first choice in hardware. This was the exception.
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December 10, 2008
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hardware works great
needed support for heavy 8/4 and 12/4 maple. these worked great.
Added Apr 4, 2016
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