Hidden Barrel Hinges-Select size

I am very satisfied with these hinges for use in small boxes. They are durable, attractive and a snap to install with perfect alignment. I use the 10mm size, and mill the box sides a shade over 1/2" thick.I have a few suggestions concerning installation. Firstly, it is a good idea to make a mockup, as shown in the photo in the top-left corner. You will see that, after drilling the holes for the hinges (but before installing the hinges), I've cut relief slots with a bandsaw (only in the mockup, of course). This allows me to remove the hinges by first twisting a slotted screwdriver in the corresponding slots. Without the slots, the hinges could not be removed without damaging the hinge or the box.To drill the holes, first mark the backs of the top and side, as shown in the photo in the top-right. The marked faces are placed against the bandsaw fence. Next, a) postion the bandsaw fence so that the first holes drilled in the side will be approximately centred relative to the thickness of the material; b) position the (say) left fence stop so that the hole at the far end of the side is in the correct position; and c) set the depth stop on drill press so the hinge will bottom-out in the hole when it is fully-seated. This is shown in the photo in the bottom-left corner. Neither the fence nor left fence stop are subsequently moved. After drilling the first hole in the side, pivot the board around the end nearest the hole, bring the bit down into the hole and position the right fence stop, as shown in the photo in the bottom right corner. Now the hole can be drilled at the other end of the back side, after placing the board against the right stop, with the mark on the board facing the fence. After repositioning the depth stop for the holes to be drilled in the lid, the two holes are drilled in the lid, one using each fence stop. By keeping the marked sides of the boards against the fence and the ends against the fence stops, the holes, base and lid will align perfectly.Lastly, when inserting the hinges, first make sure they are not put in (rotationally) backwards (i.e., ensure the lid will open after they are inserted). Then press them into the base and lid simultaneous and gradually, initially opening and closing the lid repeatedly, making small corrections to their rotational alignment, to make sure they are straight and not twisted. This is important, because you will not be able to straighten them in the holes after they are pressed in a very short distance (and you may not be able to remove them and start again). If the holes are drilled deeper than is necessary, care must be taken that one end of the hinge is not pressed in too far, as it cannot be pulled back. That is why it is best to test-drill the holes so that they are precisely as deep as is necessary for the hinges to bottom out when they reach the correct depth.

I've used these hinges on small boxes (jewelry, humidors, etc) and they excel when the lid sits on top, but for a door they were very poor. Even small doors sag and they have absolutely no adjustments. Also, once installed, they are very difficult to remove to realign. I will try to be sure my designs don't use these hinges for door. But the work really well for small tops and lids.

Perfect! Exactly what I needed and wanted. Worked like a champ!

Got these to replace ones on an older desk that had fallen apart. Worked perfectly. Exactly what I needed. They installed easily into the holes the older hinges came out of.

The product was great, they worked well.

While repairing a friend's high end jewelry box, these very same hinges had been used but were damaged beyond repair. And so I was quite pleased when discovering that you had these. I removed the old ones and these slipped right in.

I am sure this product is great if one has the ability/skill to work with such precision that they can make holes to the millimmeter. I cannot, and so this didn't work for me. I wish there were a jig of sorts to help. All of this is simply to say: know your skill level....and unless you have a very steady hand, you may want a simpler hinge that is more forgiving, as virtually every other one would be.

Well-made. They are impossible to get out of the hole once you put them in, so test-fitting is not an option. Be sure you have things in the right place before assembly.

Working with barrel hinges requires some skill and experience. The instructions said to drill a hole the same size as the barrel hinge. In my case that was 14mm. So, I bought a special brad point bit and proceeded. Well, I attempted to insert the hinge and have to say it went in a little hard, in fact once I got it in, I could not get it back out. This was a test run fortunately. Have not removed the hinge yet for fear of damaging it. Considered drilling a 14.5 mm hole, but bits are not available in that size except by special order at $75 per bit. So, proceed with caution, and practice before working on your project.

i fixed a triple panel folding door on a 30 year old Danish TV cabinet with this one

I certainly recommend these Barrel Hinges. They were used quite a lot in old hand-made furniture. It was very hard to find a supplier until someone suggested Rockler. When I need unique and historic items in the future, I will call Rockler---they are good to do business with.

If you line them up right, they work great. I missed lining one up and had to pay some tuition, but I learned how to install them right the first time once I marked center line on both sides of my jewelry box top with a square. The accompanying drill bit makes for a great tight fit for these hinges.

To keep students interested I need quick projects that give good results, this product did the job. We made small gift boxes from various woods and the hinge fit and function was great. We will be ordering more.

very good product

They are working satisfactorily. It would have helped if there had been more detailed instructions and suggestions about installing them.

I really like how these hinges work and that they are completely hidden, but be very careful installing them. They need a hole that is just smaller than they are, and you have to be prepared because they are hard to get out without destroying them. Also if you are using two types of wood (I was using oak and walnut), install the hinge into the harder of the two first. Then tap it into the soft. This way you won't push the hinge too far into the soft wood.

These hinges are great but I prefer the solid style over the slotted arm-style. They still got the job done...

measure twice.....

Just finished making a humidor using these hinges. They work very well.

As other have stated, these hinges take some skill/correct tools/patience to install. The very first of these I installed, the hole was too small! I subsequently purchased a 10mm good quality bit and it have not had a problem. The barrels are very tight and only by carefully tapping can I get them in. The hinges work well, are concealed and overall I am very happy with them.

Hinges work great. Easy to use. Would be nice if you could get 14mm bit to bore them. I had a hard time finding a 14mm brad point.

Easy to install but I suggest you offer a 10mm bit to go with it.

Exactly what I wanted, although they were a bit spendy. They will give you a concealed flush inset for small doors.

These were replacements for the same hinges that broke. The hinges were installed in a 5-ply door flush mounted in a desktop. The old hinges broke at the articulation between the two arms.

I used these for a small door for a hidden compartment in the back of a cabinet. The cabinet and door were plywood. The adjustment screws would not allow me to tighten the hinges in the hole well enough to keep the small door from sagging.

I bought these hinges to use on a small door (3/4"x12"x12"). After installing them I found that they were not strong enough to support the door. The door sagged 1/16".

Very difficult to work with. I would never buy those hinges again.