Hidden Barrel Hinges-Select size

I am sure this product is great if one has the ability/skill to work with such precision that they can make holes to the millimmeter. I cannot, and so this didn't work for me. I wish there were a jig of sorts to help. All of this is simply to say: know your skill level....and unless you have a very steady hand, you may want a simpler hinge that is more forgiving, as virtually every other one would be.

I am very satisfied with these hinges for use in small boxes. They are durable, attractive and a snap to install with perfect alignment. I use the 10mm size, and mill the box sides a shade over 1/2" thick.I have a few suggestions concerning installation. Firstly, it is a good idea to make a mockup, as shown in the photo in the top-left corner. You will see that, after drilling the holes for the hinges (but before installing the hinges), I've cut relief slots with a bandsaw (only in the mockup, of course). This allows me to remove the hinges by first twisting a slotted screwdriver in the corresponding slots. Without the slots, the hinges could not be removed without damaging the hinge or the box.To drill the holes, first mark the backs of the top and side, as shown in the photo in the top-right. The marked faces are placed against the bandsaw fence. Next, a) postion the bandsaw fence so that the first holes drilled in the side will be approximately centred relative to the thickness of the material; b) position the (say) left fence stop so that the hole at the far end of the side is in the correct position; and c) set the depth stop on drill press so the hinge will bottom-out in the hole when it is fully-seated. This is shown in the photo in the bottom-left corner. Neither the fence nor left fence stop are subsequently moved. After drilling the first hole in the side, pivot the board around the end nearest the hole, bring the bit down into the hole and position the right fence stop, as shown in the photo in the bottom right corner. Now the hole can be drilled at the other end of the back side, after placing the board against the right stop, with the mark on the board facing the fence. After repositioning the depth stop for the holes to be drilled in the lid, the two holes are drilled in the lid, one using each fence stop. By keeping the marked sides of the boards against the fence and the ends against the fence stops, the holes, base and lid will align perfectly.Lastly, when inserting the hinges, first make sure they are not put in (rotationally) backwards (i.e., ensure the lid will open after they are inserted). Then press them into the base and lid simultaneous and gradually, initially opening and closing the lid repeatedly, making small corrections to their rotational alignment, to make sure they are straight and not twisted. This is important, because you will not be able to straighten them in the holes after they are pressed in a very short distance (and you may not be able to remove them and start again). If the holes are drilled deeper than is necessary, care must be taken that one end of the hinge is not pressed in too far, as it cannot be pulled back. That is why it is best to test-drill the holes so that they are precisely as deep as is necessary for the hinges to bottom out when they reach the correct depth.