Two small but very important parts are the alignment pins (pieces 6). Made from 3/8″-diameter by 1-3⁄4″ dowels, they serve to keep the rails aligned and parallel when in coffee table mode. They also create a small gap between the rails to prevent the table halves from pinching your fingers when closing up the bed. To install the pins, bore the holes to a depth of 7/8″. Then add a drop or two of glue to the holes and tap in the pins until they are fully seated. Mark for the opposing holes and bore them to a depth of 7/8″ minus the depth of the hinge knuckles.
The removable headboard panel (piece 5) mounts to the folded-up coffee table configuration with magnetic catches (pieces 8). The steel plates are attached to the headboard panel, while the magnetic catches are screwed to the inside faces of the rails. It is a clever way to hold the captured panel securely. You’ll also need to drill a 3/4″ or 1″-diameter finger hole through the headboard panel.
That way, you can grab the piece more easily and pull it free of the table before you open it up into a bed.
To finish the project, sand the assembly until smooth. I started at 80-grit paper and worked my way through the grits until I got to 180-grit. Ease all the sharp edges and corners, too.
Cover any knots with a sealer such as shellac to keep them from bleeding through the paint, and then apply a coat of good quality primer. Allow the primer to dry and, if needed, apply a second coat. Lightly sand again with a fine grit before applying two coats of interior enamel. You can choose whatever method you prefer to apply the paint, but I used a good quality bristle brush. Take your time and be systematic in your approach, and you’ll get great results.