At its essence, creating a book-match means resawing through the thickness of a board. Once the cut is complete and you’ve opened the two pieces, like a book, the grain on each of the two cut faces will almost perfectly mirror one another.
I’ve used book-matched panels on a number of projects. On a small scale, they make great jewelry box lids, but if you own a saw with enough resaw capacity you can create book-matches on a larger scale. I’ve produced book-matched door panels, for instance, and used them on adjacent doors, so each is the mirror of the other. It’s a striking effect. I’ve also created tabletops from book-matched pieces.
The band saw is just the tool for resawing a book-match. You’ll need a resaw fence and, with a few simple setup tips, you’ll be cutting like a pro.
Setting Up the Saw
Before you start cutting, the first thing to do is make sure your band saw is properly set up for resawing. If you plan on cutting fairly wide boards, you’ll need a saw with plenty of capacity.
The general rule with resawing is, “the wider the blade, the better.” I prefer a blade that’s at least 1/2" wide. The blade you select should also have an aggressive tooth pattern with no more than 3 or 4 teeth per inch (tpi). With your blade installed, you’ll want to check the blade tension and tracking and confirm that the table is perfectly perpendicular to the blade.
Reflecting on the Book-match
Selecting your stock is the next step, and when you’re book-matching, there’s a nice little “preview” trick you can try. Want to see what the book-match will actually look like before you ever make a cut? Hold a mirror at the edge of the candidate board, as shown above, and you’ll see the mirror image of the face grain. This gives you a very good idea of what your book-match will look like after resawing.
Marking Your Cut
Now that your saw is all set and you’ve used the mirror trick to select a board that will best show off your book-matching efforts, it’s time to move on to the cut and split your board into two pieces. Before you actually start cutting, use a small combination square to help you draw a line down the center of your board, as shown in the photo.
Setting the Fence
I like using a single-point fence for my resawing operations. This type of fence allows a woodworker to make slight corrections for blade drift during the cut — adjustments that would be impossible with a regular fence.
Set the fence on the band saw table and hold the board you intend to resaw against the fence. The “point” of the fence should be 1/4" in front of the blade so the board contacts the fence before the blade. Next, use the line you marked on the edge of your board to set the distance from the blade to the fence. Clamp the fence in place with your line centered on the blade.
Making the Cut
Resaw the board by holding it against the fence and gently pushing it into the band saw blade. I recommend using a push pad, instead of your hand, to hold the board tight to the fence. Gently guide the board so the blade remains centered on the pencil line throughout the cut. As you near the end of the board, you should switch your hand positions to pull the board past the blade instead of pushing it. This keeps your hands well clear of the cutting path of the blade.
Assembling and Finishing the Bookmatch
If you’ll be using your book-matched pieces as one wide panel, you’ll need to glue them together, as shown in the top photo, this page. If the assembled panel will be wider than your planer, plane off the band saw marks before gluing the panel together. Carefully joint the soon-to-be-glued edges so you have a nice, nearly invisible seam.
With a little finish, your book-match will really “pop.” Many people will look at it and wonder how you created such a beautiful mirror image.