Buying a table saw is one of the most important investments a woodworker can make. If your in the market for your first saw or ready to step up to a better model, keep reading. We’ll bring you up to speed on table saw types and classes, what to look for in any table saw, and how to choose a model that suits your woodworking style and budget.

Types of Table Saw

The table saws available on the market today almost all fall under one of the following classifications: portable or “jobsite” saws, contractor saws, hybrid saws and cabinet saws. If you’re shopping for a new saw, the first things you’ll need to know is what the classifications mean, and what you can expect from saws in each class.

Portable Table Saws

Portable table saws are designed to be easy to lift and move around, making them great for carpenters and others who spend most of their time on the job site. Portable table saws perform the same basic function as larger table saws, but on a smaller scale. Instead of the hefty induction motor that you’ll find on saws in the other classes, they use a lightweight universal motor, and because of that, tend to be a little short on muscle and also fairly loud. As another concession to portability, most portable saws have an aluminum top, instead of cast iron. The aluminum top and less torquey universal motor are not necessarily “problems” but they are definitely less durable and also mean that the saw will produce more vibration and feel less stable to operate.

Improvements in recent years to “jobsite” saws have made them more viable for woodworkers, and better than ever for carpentry tasks. The Bosch 4100 Portable Saw you see here, with its 15 amp universal motor and 25″ rip capacity offers enough power for most common ripping jobs and reasonable capacity for cutting sheet materials. Still, portable saws lack the power to rip thick hardwoods and aren’t really designed to provide the accuracy that fine woodworking demands. Since contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws represent more realistic choices for professional woodworkers and serious hobbyists, we’ll consider them in more detail below.

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The Powermatic Model 64B is a “classic” contractor saw with high-end features, including an Accu Fence rail and fence system and cast iron extension wings.

Contractor Saws

Contractor saws were originally designed to be portable enough to haul from jobsite to jobsite. These open-based table saws are characterized by a straightforward design and an affordable price. Contractor saws are relatively lightweight (in the 250 – 350 lb. range) usually priced within the reach of the hobbyist and homeowner and until recently, have been virtually the only option for the small shop.

Contractor saws do make a few concessions in the name of affordability and portability. Although most contractor saws have a solid cast iron table top, the extension wings may be made of “open webbed” cast iron or stamped metal. The trunnions, gearing and arbor assembly of a contractor saw are less husky than those found on more expensive saws. The contractor saw’s motor hangs off of the back of the saw – a feature originally meant to make the motor easier to remove for transport – and is most often connected to the arbor assembly via a single V-belt.

Contractor saws are still the most affordable solution for the home shop, and are suitable for carpentry, small cabinetry projects, trim work, and basic furniture making. Many contractor saws now come with high quality fence systems. Using the best quality saw blade – and using blades designed for a specific type of cut – can enhance the performance of a contractor saw and bring it up to speed for many more advanced woodworking projects. Buying a contractor saw that’s equipped with solid cast iron extension wings will increase the stability of the saw, and help reduce the impact of vibration on the saw’s less substantial trunnions and gearing.

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Cabinet saws offer performance and durability the put them in a class by themselves. The Powermatic PM2000 pictured above comes standard with everything you’d expect from a professional-class saw.

Cabinet Saws

Cabinet saws – so called because of the fully enclosed “cabinet” style base – represent the other end of the spectrum from the contractor saw. Cabinet saws are designed to meet the performance and durability needs of professional woodworkers. Cabinet saws are more substantial in overall construction than contractor saws – they’re built using more cast iron and steel, have heavier trunnions, gearing, and arbor assemblies, and more powerful motors than their contractor saw counterparts. The cumulative result is a saw that can cut through even the thickest hardwood stock easily, all day long, with very little vibration to wear on either the saws alignment and settings or the operator’s nerves.

A number of features set the cabinet saw apart. The motor is enclosed inside the cabinet base, making it a quieter saw, and the fully enclosed base has the advantage of making dust collection easier. The motor and arbor assembly are held in place with heavy-duty trunnions that attach to the cabinet base (instead of the table) which makes bringing the saw blade into alignment with the miter slot and fence much easier. As a rule, cabinet saw are manufactured to more exacting standards than less expensive saws: their tables are flatter, their bearings and pulleys heavier and more robust, and most often, they’re equipped with a more reliable fence system.

A good quality cabinet saw is more of an investment than a contractor saw. And because cabinet saws use more powerful motors (3 -5 HP as opposed to 1 – 1-3/4 HP for contractor and hybrid saws) they require a 220 volt circuit for operation. They are by no means portable – a full sized cabinet saw weighs in at upwards of 600 lbs. But even with the greater expense, the electrical power requirements, and the physical heft of the machine, cabinets saws are still the preferred saw of professional woodworkers and serious amateurs alike due to their superior performance.

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Hybrid saws, like the Jet ProShop pictured here, combine affordability with cabinet saw features, including a fully enclosed base and heavier trunnions and gearing and more advanced drive belt systems.

Hybrid Saws

In recent years, tool manufacturers have begun to recognize the gulf between affordable contractor saws and professional-class cabinet saws. The result has been a new class of table saw. “Hybrid” table saws capture some of the most valuable cabinet saw features at a price that’s still in range for the hobbyist.

Some hybrid saws have a cabinet saw-style base while others have a shorter enclosed base and legs. In either case, the base is fully enclosed, with the motor mounted inside. Hybrid saws are equipped with more substantial trunnions and arbor bearings, often a more advanced drive belt system, and better gearing than most contractor saws. In addition, the trunnions of many hybrid saws are mounted to the base of the saw, making precision alignment of the blade with the miter slot and the blade much easier.

Hybrid saws are essentially a scaled down version of the cabinet saw. They’re lighter weight, and are equipped with motors in the 1-1/2 – 1-3/4 HP range (which means that they can be used with standard 110 volt service). Many believe that hybrid saws represent the wave of the future for home shops. They’re not quite in the same class as their larger cousins, but hybrids are sturdy and well constructed and offer many advantages for the serious hobbyist.

Choosing the Right Saw for Your Shop

The type of saw to consider for your shop depends on the type of woodworking you do, the amount of time you spend woodworking, your budget and, in part, the space and type of access your shop affords (you should think twice, for example, before committing yourself to moving a full scale cabinet saw into a small basement shop).

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The Delta UNISAW – a top performer and a top choice of professionals and dedicated hobbyists for years.

If you spend only a few hours a week in your shop, mostly making small cabinetry and craft projects, a cabinet saw might be nice to have, but a little more than you need. On the other hand, if you operate a small professional shop, and are looking for a saw that you can comfortably and reliably run for hours at a time, a low end contractor model will probably slow you down and end up being a disappointment. Hybrid saws offer a good middle ground for serious hobbyists, and will even prove suitable for certain small-scale professional operations. Jet Tools offers a surprising breadth of advanced features in its line of affordable “Supersaws.”

As important as the type of saw you choose are the individual features of the saw. Some affordable contractor model saws offer many of the same features that you’d expect to find on a top-quality cabinet saw, such as the widely respected Accu-Fence system and precision ground cast iron table tops and extension wings you’ll find on Powermatic contractor models. By the same token, while saws in the cabinet saw class all share certain features – a 3HP or larger motor, trunnions that attach to the base, and heavier construction – they are not all manufactured to the same standards. Take a close look at the quality of all of the saw’s components, including the quality of the fence system, the mass and stance of the trunnions, the grind and finish of the top and extension wings, and features that make power transmission to the blade more efficient.

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Table saw technology continues it’s advance in the SawStop brand. New safety features in this contractor model greatly reduce the potential for injury without bumping up the price beyand the reach of hobbyists (learn more).

Buying a table saw is a big investment, and worth careful consideration. You may not be able to “test drive” every table saw on your list, but you can read reviews, compare specs and features, and it doesn’t hurt to take the manufacturers reputation into account. When you’re ready to buy your new dream table saw, Rockler offers a wide variety of contractor saws, hybrid saws and cabinet saws from the most trusted brands in the business.

Keeping Tools Sharp – One Size Does Not Fit All

How seriously should you take keeping your tools sharp? Ask around and you’ll get a range of opinions. For some woodworkers, sharpening is at best a necessary evil – to be taken up only when a tool will no longer successfully cut wood. For others, the practice of keeping every chisel, plane iron, gouge, saw blade and pencil in the shop in absolute razor-sharp condition carries an almost spiritual significance. Most, however, would take a more moderate position. They’d say – as so many professional woodworkers have – that reasonably-to-very sharp tools, and a system for keeping them that way, are prerequisites for enjoyable, accurate and safe work.

Settling in with a sharpening system that offers the results you want, and that you actually use, can mark a real turning point in your woodworking. Sharp tools cut faster and with less resistance, leave a smoother surface, and are simply more fun to use. Having consistently sharp tools is likely to improve your accuracy and your attitude toward using hand tools. You’ll get things done faster and have a better time doing it.

So which sharpening system is the best? There’s no shortage of opinion on that, either. The one that will work out best for you depends on the type of woodworking you do most, the type of tools you need sharpen, the amount of time you want to spend sharpening, and the amount you want to invest in a sharpening system. Below, to help you get started, we’ll sort through a few of the most popular sharpening systems available.

The Venerable Benchstone

One of the most familiar sharpening tools is the good old bench stone. Benchstones come in a variety of types and materials, each of which has it’s own unique properties. In general, sharpening stones can be divided into three basic groups: oilstones, water stones, and diamond stones. There’s nothing wrong with the bench stone method of keeping an edge on your tools – as long as you don’t mind supplying a little elbow grease. in fact, sharpening systems that make use of various natural and man-made abrasive materials are still among the most popular.

It would be possible to devotee several chapters in a book to a treatise on benchstone sharpening techniques – in fact several people have. One of our favorite, Leonard Lee’s TheComplete Guide to Sharpening, provides in depth information on just about every sharpening task you’ll run into, and is highly recommended reading for anyone who’s just beginning to take sharpening seriously. But in short form, here is how the various stone differ:

Oilstones have traditionally been the favorite here in the West, and are still among the most popular. Oilstones are lubricated with oil during the cutting process, and may be made of naturally occurring or man-made materials. Oilstones are available in a variety of degrees of coarseness, from fast-cutting Washita stone to extra-fine Hard Black Arkansas stone. Oilstones tend to wear well and require less flattening than waterstones. While naturally occurring oilstone is less plentiful and more costly than in the past, a one-time investment can last a lifetime.

Waterstones originated in Japan, and cut much faster than oilstones. They are also available in finer grades, which makes them a popular choice for honing and polishing devotees. Waterstones also wear much faster than oilstones and have to be flattened periodically on a lapping bed, or with a flattening stone. Diamond stones, by contrast wear like iron. A diamond stone, as the name suggests, is made from diamond crystals bonded to a steel plate. These man-made stones are typically more expensive than other types of stone, but have the advantage of staying perfectly flat regardless of how many times they have been used.

The Scary Sharp (and Very Affordable) System

If you’re the frugal type, and like to maintain intimate contact with the sharpening process, you might want to look into the Scary Sharp ™ system. What’s Scary Sharp? It’s a method, not a thing. Scary Sharp means using successively finer grits of wet/dry sandpaper and a lubricant to sharpen tools. There is some debate as to the origin of the Scary Sharp system; some believe that it predates World War II, and has been passed down from master to apprentice for generations. Although this now-classic account is not the origin of Scary Sharp, as many believe, it is one of the best, and certainly the most entertaining, endorsements of the practice available.

The key to success with the scary sharp system is having the right “equipment.” That means having a range of wet/dry sandpaper grits, a honing guide to maintain the correct bevel angle, and a perfectly flat surface to work on. You can collect all of the material yourself, or you can save time by picking up one of Rockler’s Scary Sharp kits. They come with everything you need, including high-grade silicon carbide self-adhesive sandpaper, a honing guide, and a guaranteed flat 12″ square x 1/4″ thick plate glass work surface.

Motorized Systems

The Scary Sharp ™ system is certainly the most affordable of sharpening systems, and many woodworkers swear by it for sharpening bench chisels, plane irons and the like. Carvers, turners and other woodworkers who have (or anticipate developing) large collections of cutting tools may prefer a motorized system for its versatility and advanced features. Outfitting yourself with a respected motorized system is a significant step up in cost, but if you are a serious hand tool user, and like to keep all of your expensive cutting tools in top condition, the added cost may turn out to be a bargain in the long run.

A motorized sharpening system should not be confused with a bench grinder. A typical bench grinder is best suited for quickly removing material from a metal object, and is not a good choice for the delicate operation of sharpening a fine hand tool. A sharpener’s grindstone moves much slower than a bench grinder’s, and it usually delivers coolant to the grinding/sharpening operation – most often, a stream of water. The cooling system prevents over-heating that would affect the hardness of the tool; the slower speed makes the grinding operation easier to control, and also prevents centrifugal force sufficient to drench the operator with coolant.

In the world of water-cooled sharpening systems, there is no more respected name than Tormek. There are several reasons for this longstanding position of honor. Chiefly, the Tormek system lets you grind a variety of tools reliably and repeatably. An array of jigs available for the Tormek mean that you can grind gouges, skews, chisels, plan irons and a variety of other tools time and time again at the exact same bevel angle. More recently, Jet Tools released it’s own motorized sharpening system: The Jet Slow Speed Wet Sharpener. In many ways comparable to the Tormek, the Jet offers an impressive list of optional jigs and accessories, and at the same time is a little easier on the checkbook.

Being able to do that is a great advantage: Once you’ve established the correct cutting geometry for a given tool, you can restore it in successive sharpenings reliably and with the minimum of material removal. In other words, the sharpening process goes faster, your tools last longer, and you know that you are applying the best possible cutting geometry all of the time. The Tormek also employs a handy stone grading system that lets you do both coarse grinding and fine sharpening with the same stone. The advantages there are speed, of course, and more importantly, the ability to easily and accurately repeat the correct grinding angle in the coarse and fine modes.

Work Sharp – The New Kid on the Block

There are countless committed disciples of wet sharpening systems like the Tormek and Jet’s Slow Speed Wet Sharpener. And in the opinion of many, there’s no reason to look further. That notwithstanding, we’d like to mention one relative newcomer: the Work Sharp Sharpening System. Available in two models, the Work sharp is (in a sense) a hybrid of the Scary Sharp system and a motorized sharpener; it has a couple of features that you don’t see every day. First of all, it’s an air cooled system, the convenience of which may appeal to some who think a water cooled system is a hassle.

Both Work Sharp models have a unique angled sharpening port leading to the underside of the abrasive disk. The port makes it practically foolproof to sharpen straight chisels and plane irons at the proper bevel angle evenly and repeatably. To make matters even easier, the sharpening port has an integrated, patent-pending ceramic oxide lapping abrasive on its surface. With a few quick strokes, you both sharpen the tool and remove the resultant burr from the cutting edge.

If the angled sharpening port is clever and efficient, the system has yet another feature that’s downright ingenious: the Work Sharp’s proprietary “Edge-Vision” sharpening method. Both Work Sharp models come with special slotted sharpening wheels and corresponding slotted abrasive disks which allow you to sharpen gouges and other non-straight edged tools on the underside of sharpening wheel while you watch the goings-on through the top of the wheel (in much the same way as you can “see through” the blades of a window fan when it’s running).

How do the WS2000 and WS3000 differ? The WS3000 is the luxury model; it comes with all the capabilities described above and includes few appreciable refinements. The chisel and plane iron port is adjustable in five degree increments from 20 to 35 degrees, giving you more say in choosing a bevel angle, along with the ability put on a quick and easy to re-hone 5 degree micro-bevel. And not that you’ll need to worry about it much, the lapping abrasive is replaceable.

The WS3000 turns slower than the WS2000 and probably feels a little smoother to operate. It also comes with two tempered glass wheels – the traditional guaranteed-flat substrate for abrasive paper sharpening. The glass wheel are two sided, adding the advantage of being able to keep each of four grinding surfaces loaded up with a different grit for fast changeovers.

The Work Sharp WS2000 has one standout feature to separate it from the WS3000: the price. At around $100, we feel confident in saying that it’s the most sharpener for the money that you’re ever likely to get. If what you want mainly is a tool that quickly and repeatably grinds and hones straight chisels up to 1-5/8″ at a perfect 25 degree bevel angle, it’s a pretty good bet. And on top of that, you’ll get the handy “Edge-Vision” capability and plenty of tool rest-supported freehand grinding surface on top for larger tools.

There’s No Wrong Answer

In the end, just about any sharpening system will keep your tools sharp. The best one for you may depend more on your temperament and budget than on anything else. But one thing is true for everyone: once you reached a certain point in woodworking, you understand that keeping your tools sharp isn’t an optional pursuit – it’s a (necessary) part of the job.

Items marked with a star indicate our most frequently recommended products. In our experience, these products are among the easiest to use, and give consistently good results.

Wipe-On Finishes

When applying wipe-on type products, we recommend using lint-free cotton or Rockler’s high-quality Cheese Cloth.

Rockler Shellac Kits

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: It dries very fast and gives you a nice appearance.
APPEARANCE: Best for matching antique finishes. Tinted for different wood tones.
DURABILITY & USAGE: It is not completely water resistant, and it can be brittle.

Sam Maloof’s Poly/Oil by Rockler

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Gives a very professional looking, handsome finish yet is relatively easy to use.
APPEARANCE: When used alone, you’ll get a satin to semi-gloss finish with good chatoyance. Adds warmth to natural wood color.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Good durability. World-renowned furniture maker Sam Maloof uses this in combination with the Sam Maloof Oil/Wax (see below) for his museum-quality tables, rocking chairs, and other furniture.

Sam Maloof’s Oil/Wax by Rockler


CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: This oils-and- beeswax formula is made to be used in conjunction with Sam Maloof’s Poly/Oil finish.
APPEARANCE: Use after applying Sam Maloof’s Poly/Oil finish to increase chatoyance and give a rich, semi-gloss appearance.
DURABILITY & USAGE: See above. Oil/Wax formula is recommended for use on furniture that won’t be exposed to excessive heat or moisture.

Arm-R-Seal by General Finishes

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Deeply penetrates wood and builds to a highly protective finish.
APPEARANCE: Available in satin, semi-gloss, or gloss.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Excellent. Our most durable wipe-on finish due to the high polyurethane content. Great for kitchen tables and other pieces that need to stand up to heat, moisture, and alcohol.

Minwax Antique Oil Finish

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Deep penetrating oil blend for a classic hand-rubbed finish.
APPEARANCE: Produces a low gloss sheen with the recommended 2 – 3 coats.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Intended for use on interior raw or stained wood surfaces. Additional coats may be applied occasionally to maintain like-new appearance.

Minwax Tung Oil Finish

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: This tung oil blend produces the grain enhancing effect that tung oil finishes are highly prized for.
APPEARANCE: Satin sheen.
DURABILITY AND USAGE: Good durability on interior wood projects. Can be applied to raw or stained wood, or over other Minwax finishes.

Minwax Wipe On Poly

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Voted best value in a wipe on finish by Fine Woodworking Magazine. Combines the beauty of a hand rubbed finish with the toughness of polyurethane.
APPEARANCE: Satin sheen with very light amber cast.
DURABILITY AND USAGE: Good to excellent durability. Easy application and suitable for interior projects like furniture, molding and trim.

Butcher Block Oil

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Safe natural penetrating oil finish for butcher blocks, cutting boards, wood utensils, salad bowls and other wood surfaces.
APPEARANCE: Grain-enhancing, flat sheen.
DURABILITY & USAGE: A completely natural oil that meets all FDA requirements for surfaces that contact food.

General Finishes EF Extender

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Specially formulated to for use with General Finishes waterborne wood finishes. Use to increase the drying time of General Finishes top coat finishes.
APPEARANCE: Does not affect the final appearance of the finish when used as directed.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Use EF Extender in hot, dry weather to enhance the leveling properties of GF top coats, or whenever extended drying time is desired.

Tried and True Original Wood Finish

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Tried and True Original Wood Finish is a premium oil finish made with 100% natural, plant-derived ingredients. It’s FDA approved as non-toxic and nonallergenic.
APPEARANCE: Natural sheen finish.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Excellent durability and this finish will become even more hard and durable as it ages. Safe to use on children’s toys, cutting boards, etc.

Rockler’s 100% Pure Tung Oil

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: A 100% natural oil containing no driers or solvents.
APPEARANCE: Flat to satin-sheen finish.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Good to very good. Very water-resistant. Use on furniture or any wood object where easy maintenance is desired

General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Made to be 100% safe for use on any wood surface that comes into contact with food. Varnish/oil blend.
APPEARANCE: Flat to satin sheen.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Good durability. Use on salad bowls, wooden spoons, cutting boards, etc.

Liberon Finishing Oil

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: A quick drying, low odor blend of high quality oils.
APPEARANCE: Produces a very even soft sheen.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Safe for food preparation areas. Resistant to water, heat, alcohol and food acids.

Behlen Woodturner’s Finish

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: High gloss wipe on finish designed for small woodturning projects.
APPEARANCE: Ultra high sheen finish designed for turned work.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Wipe on bare wood and polish while your project is still on the lathe for a durable finish.

General Finishes Toy Maker’s Finishes

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Safe for use on children’s toys and furniture. Applies easily like an oil, yet looks like a varnish.
APPEARANCE: Flat to satin sheen.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Good to very good durability. Use on bare wood or stained children’s furniture and toys.

Bush-On Finishes

General Finishes PolyAcrylic Blend

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Very fast drying and easy to apply. Easy water clean-up.
APPEARANCE: Available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. Virtually clear so it adds almost no color to wood.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Good to very good. Use on chairs, dressers, chests, molding and woodwork.

General Finishes EF High Performance Waterbase Polyurethane

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: “EF” stands for environmentally friendly! Fast-drying. Easy water clean-up.
APPEARANCE: Your choice of satin or gloss. Virtually clear, so it adds almost no color to wood.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Excellent durability. Tough enough for kitchen/dining room tables. Durable enough even for floors!

Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Affordable choice for an all-around clear waterborne finish.
APPEARANCE: Water-clear when dry. Available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss
DURABILITY AND USAGE: Perfect for cabinets, molding and trim. Can be applied over oil-based and water-based stain. Recommended for lighter colored woods and stains.

Rockhard Table Top Varnish

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: A “short-oil” varnish formulated for an extra hard and durable finish.
APPEARANCE: High-gloss with an amber cast.
DURABILITY AND USAGE: Superior resistance to moisture, household chemicals and abrasion. Use on table tops or wherever an extra hard finish is desired. For interior use.

Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: A clear, premixed 2 pound cut of de-waxed shellac. Can be applied with either a brush or lint-free cloth.
APPEARANCE: On raw wood, 2 to 3 coats will produce a soft velvety sheen. SealCoat is most often used as an undercoat, however.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Use to seal raw wood in preparation for a final finish. Makes an excellent sanding sealer and barrier coat. For interior use.

General Finishes EF Sanding Sealer

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: This waterborne sealer sands easily and is designed to seal raw wood, help fill in wood pores, and build up surfaces in preparation for final finishing.
APPEARANCE: Flat – not intended as a final finish.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Great for sealing wood pores prior to final finishing. Stearated for easy sanding and extra surface build. Easy water clean-up.

Spray Finishes

Zinsser Clear Spray Shellac

CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: The classic finish for furniture and other wood surfaces now in convenient aerosol form. Safe and non-toxic, this natural finish enhances grain pattern and produces a soft, deep glow.
APPEARANCE: Soft, velvety sheen after 2 to 3 coats.
DURABILITY & USAGE: Good durability. Best for small-scale interior projects where a traditional finish is desired. Also has excellent sealing properties and can be used as a barrier coat under latex and oil paint.

See Finishing Q&A with Nordy Rockler.

Besides producing ample force, a vacuum press has features that make it just about the perfect method for applying veneer. Unlike  mechanical clamping systems, a vacuum press applies even, consistent pressure over the entire surface of the workpiece, creating “intimate contact” between the veneer and the substrate. Additionally, a vacuum press actually draws air out of the cells of the wood, which is replaced by adhesive. According to adhesive manufacturers, intimate contact and cellular penetration are the two most important features in creating an optimum bond.

How it Works

A vacuum press consists of nothing more than a vinyl bag with a pump attached to evacuate the air from the bag. The press relies on atmospheric pressure to press the veneer against the substrate while it is being glued.  Vacuum presses produce a surprising amount of clamping pressure — at 25 Hg (inches of mercury) a vacuum press will exert 1872 lbs. of pressure on a 1 square foot piece of wood.  And for all of the advantages that a vacuum press offers, it’s a fairly easy to use piece of equipment.

Most vacuum presses are operated with an electric air pump, or a Venturi pump that operates using compressed air and the Venturi principle to create a vacuum by running air through a small orifice. The Thin Air Vacuum Press instead uses a very simple hand pump to evacuate air from the veneering bag. One of the features of the Thin Air pump is that the bag is so well made that it virtually eliminates leaks, which means that there is no need to keep pumping air out of the system, as is often the case with larger systems.  The Thin Air bag will hold 24 Hg of vacuum for days - far longer than you’d ever need in a veneering operation. Bags for the system are available in 14′ X 47′ and 26′ X 28′ sizes and are perfect for everything from marquetry projects to making parts for smaller pieces of furniture.

The Thin Air Kit comes with everything you need to do a great job of veneering small project, including easy to follow instructions that cover vacuum veneering onto a substrate, “freehand” vacuum bending, and vacuum bending using a form. Be we think this vacuum press is such a great tool, we’d like to add a few of our own suggestions for getting the most out of the pump.

Thin Air Vacuum Press Tips

 Make a platen for the press.  It’s important for your work to maintain the correct position and shape while it is in the press. If you’re going to be doing a lot of veneering of flat surfaces, we recommend making a “platen” for the the press.  A platen is a rigid flat surface that’s positioned underneath the work-piece and helps keeps things flat and lined up while the glue sets. It’s also important for the vacuum press to have a route for air to flow out of the bag when it’s being drawn down to a vacuum. The kit comes with a mesh bag that covers the glue-up parts and helps give the air in the bag an “escape route.”  A vacuum press platen usually has groves cut into it to give the air in the bag an easy route out of the press.

A piece of 3/4′ melamine that’s a couple of inches smaller than the usable area of the bag will make a perfect platen.  Cut groves 1/4′ deep in the melamine 2′ apart going in both directions. Remember to ease off all of the sharp corners of the platen to protect the bag from cuts and sharp creases when the press in use.  The platen will help keep your flat work flat, and it’ll give the air that you want out of the bag an easy route.

Make sure that you use the right sized cauls when veneering. A caul is a flat piece of wood laid over the top of the veneer to help evenly distribute pressure. In most cases, the sheet of veneer you use will be trimmed to a slightly larger size than the substrate. It is important to make the caul you use slightly larger than the substrate to avoid breaking the edges of the veneer during the gluing process.  If you use a thin material, like 1/4′ sheet material, the edges of the caul could be snapped off by the pressure of the press. Worse, the caulks could bend at the edges and bow upwards in the middle of the workpiece, causing an area of insufficient pressure in the center of your project.

To avoid these catastrophes, use 3/4′ material for your cauls.  MDF (medium density fiberboard) surfaced with melamine is an excellent choice because PVA glues (like yellow wood glue or ordinary wood glue) won’t stick to it.  Again, remember to round off the top edges of your cauls to protect the bag.

 Stack cauls on glue-ups of rigid materials. Occasionally, you may want to laminate two or more fairly rigid materials together using your Thin Air press.  For example, you might need three thicknesses of 3/4′ material glued together as a blank for a decorative bracket for a handsome new bar you’ve just built. To make sure that the pieces of thicker stock are thoroughly drawn together, you can increase the pressure applied by the press by stacking 3 or 4 caulks of incrementally smaller size on top of the workpiece.  Since  these caulks serve in a supporting role, and don’t have to be of any exact size, keep them around for future projects.

Keep the press clean and out of harm’s way.  One of the great things about the Thin Air vacuum press is its capacity for holding vacuum for a long time.  Dirt and dust that’s allowed to get into the valve, or onto the butyl sealing tape, will decrease the presses’ capacity to hold a vacuum.  Since the press is the type that gets pulled down to maximum vacuum once, and has to stay that way until the glue sets (in other words, doesn’t have an electric pump and automatic switch to turn the vacuum back on as larger systems do) it’s especially important to protect the components from dust and other contaminants that could interfere with  the systems ability to keep a strong vacuum.

We expect you’ll get years and years of  reliable service out of your Thin Air Vacuum Press.  During that time, you’re going to need lots of veneer related supplies. Be sure to check out Rockler’s extensive stock of veneer and veneer equipment and supplies – you’ll find the Thin Air Vacuum Press Kit and accessories there, too.

As always, happy woodworking.

And some great solutions have come along. For traditional mortise and tenon joinery, it’s pretty tough to beat a tricked out router jig like the Leigh FMT Frame Mortise and Tenon Jig and a plunge router. With a relatively fast set up, easy calibration of the mortise-to-tenon fit and an impressive library of joint guide templates, the Leigh jig has made a name for itself among woodworkers who take mortise and tenon joinery seriously.

Then there’s Festool’s revolutionary Domino Joinery System. If you’ve thumbed through a woodworking magazine in recent history, you’ve almost certainly seen at least one picture of the Domino joiner. But in case you haven’t, the tool bears a striking resemblance to a biscuit joiner, and operates in a similar way. That’s really its claim to fame: The Domino is as quick and easy to use as a biscuit joiner, but instead cuts mortises that are perfectly matched to Festool’s proprietary “Domino” loose tenons. The result is a joint that’s arguably every bit as strong as a traditional mortise and tenon joint in the time that it takes to pop in a biscuit or two.

If there’s a problem with these two solutions, though, it has to do with cost. Not every woodworker can justify the investment in a $700-plus gadget that doesn’t do anything other than make really great mortise and tenon joints. Woodworkers who are still building a collection of the basic equipment, along with those who only occasionally need to cut a mortise and tenon, will undoubtedly be in the market for a more affordable solution. And for them, we think we have just the thing. Recently, Rockler teamed up with Incra Tools, to develop the STS Slot Mortiser Kit, a router table jig that brings accurate, repeatable mortise and tenon joinery in reach of the most budget-conscious woodworker.

Like the Domino, the STS produces a loose tenon joint, a joint type that continues to gain on the traditional mortise and tenon because of its relative ease and comparable joint strength. The loose tenon method essentially cuts that joiner’s work in half. All of the tenon stock for an entire project can be made in a couple of table saw rips, a quick (essentially optional) pass through a planer and a little rounding off of the edges. After that, the challenge is simply to cut one identical mortise after another, cut the tenon stock to length, and fit the parts together.

Cutting mortises on a router table is nothing new, but it’s never been an extremely poplar choice. That’s because the usual router table method – using the fence as a guide and dropping the stock into the cut from above the bit – comes with a couple of serious problems: First, getting the mortise in the right spot can be a surprising challenge. In many cases, set up involves multiple fence and stop block positions each of which can be nearly impossible to repeat. When you consider the fact that an average furniture making project can easily require a couple dozen mortises, constant set up problems are more than a minor nuisance.

The STS Slot Mortiser solves this by providing positioning scales for both the mortise length stop blocks, and for the distance of the integrated fence from that bit. Setting the width and depth of cut takes only a few seconds, and you can return to a position for repeat cuts reliably and just as fast.

Another problem with router table mortising has to do with starting the cut. Typically, the procedure for cutting long-grain mortises on a router table is to butt one end of the stock up against a stop block, and move the stock down slowly onto the spinning bit from above. Doing this, however, can be a little unnerving, even if you follow the safety rules and make the cut in a number passes. Cutting corresponding mortises in the end of a board is another matter – Cutting an end-mortise on a router table, in most situations, is virtually impossible without a special jig.

The STS system’s answer to this problem is to take advantage of the recent boom in the popularity of the router lifts. Instead of bringing the stock to the bit, you bring the bit upwards into the stock while it is securely clamped into the stable and substantial STS Mortiser. The procedure still requires several passes to complete a mortise, but the difference is that it takes only a couple of seconds to raise the bit each time. Also, since the jig is guided by the by the router table’s miter slot – instead of relying on your steady hand maintain firm between the stock and the fence – each successive pass is guaranteed to repeat the exact same cut width and length.

The catch to all of this is, of course, that you have to have a router table equipped with a router that allows depth adjustments from the top of the table. Still, if you had to start from scratch, you could put together a router table package, add a suitable router, and get the STS Slot Mortiser Kit for virtually the same investment as one of the premium mortise and tenon solutions. Given the woodworking versatility a router table adds to a shop, it should be pretty easy for anyone who’s still building a collection of basic tools to decide which makes more sense.

NOTE: The STS Slot Mortiser is no longer available.

For years, the BeadLOCK joinery system has been the affordable exception. With one simple jig and an ordinary drill, the BeadLOCK lets you make a sturdy “loose tenon” joint with speed and ease. Arguably stronger than a traditional mortise and tenon joint, the BeadLOCK jig takes advantage of the drill bit’s cylindrical shape and produces a series of overlapping holes that lock together with the unique BeadLOCK tenon stock. The result is not only a superior mechanical fit, but a joint with an impressive amount of glue-up surface area – all through a procedure that takes only a few minutes to master.

And now, the BeadLOCK is better than ever. Following a recent redesign, BeadLOCK introduced two new versions of its patented jig. Now, you have your choice between an improved version of the classic BeadLOCK jig (still at a very modest price) and the new BeadLOCK Pro jig, a system that gives you mortises up to 3-1/2” wide, more advanced centering capabilities, and an easy, doweling jig-like clamping mechanism. Along with that, the Pro kit also includes a paring fixture that slips into the jig and serves as a chisel guide for squaring off the sides of a BeadLOCK mortise. If you ever need a crisp, professional-looking through mortise that matches your rectangular tenon stock perfectly, the BeadLOCK Pro Jig will give you one – in about ten minutes.

Both systems come with everything you need to get started making 3/8″ mortises – except the drill, of course – in a rugged case that provides extra space for the optional 1/4″ and 1/2″ guides and bits. As always, solid birch tenon stock is available ready-made, or you can save money in the long run by cutting your own with BeadLOCK tenon cutting router bits.

Since its introduction, the BeadLOCK jig has occupied a unique position as a fast, accurate, and at the same time affordable entry point to the high craft of mortise and tenon joinery. There simply has never been a more sensible way for a budget-conscious hobbyist or an “occasional” tenon maker to approach the most revered joint in woodworking history. Now, with an improved, easier to use basic BeadLOCK system and the huskier, more versatile BeadLOCK Pro jig to choose from, it makes more sense than ever.

To get ready, you’ll want to pick the section of the veneer that you want to include. In most cases, you’ll want to cut your substrate to finished size before you begin.  That way, you can simply trim the veneer when you’re done, without having to worry about damaging the veneer by trimming the whole finished piece with a table saw. You’ll want the most attractive area of the veneer pattern centered on the substrate, and with the contact cement method, you’ll have just one chance to get it right. Here’s an easy method for getting that perfect piece of maple burl or Macassar ebony veneer in just the right spot.

One way to make sure you get the section of the veneer you want on the finished piece is to is to make “window” out of a piece of cardboard that’s exactly the same size as your substrate. Place the substrate panel on top of a piece of cardboard, mark off the outside edge of the substrate and cut out your “veneer selecting window.”  Position the cardboard window over the part of the veneer you want placed on the finished piece. Mark the section of veneer and trim it ½’ oversized.

Now you’re ready for the contact cement.  Following the manufacturers instructions, apply contact cement to both the veneer and the substrate and allow the cement to set.  One advantage to using contact cement is that once the pieces touch, they will not slip as they might with liquid glue.   But that also means the pieces must be in the right positions before they are pressed together.

One way to make sure that the veneer ends up in the right place is to put a piece of waxed paper between the panel and the veneer.  This allows you to position the veneer over the panel before pulling the waxed paper out slowly. To make centering the veneer easier, cut the waxed paper to the same size as you cut the veneer on three sides, and a little longer on the end you’ll hold when you remove it.

When you have the veneer in position, carefully pull out the wax paper, making sure that the veneer stays in place during the process. Once the pieces have made contact, roll the veneer down with a veneer roller, starting at the center of the veneer and moving outwards to the edge of the substrate. After you roll down the veneer, it’s best to go over the surface with a smoothing blade to insure that the veneer is thoroughly adhered to the substrate.

Now, run your hand over the surface of the veneer to make sure that it is flat and that there are no trapped air bubbles between the veneer and the substrate. Tap your finger on any suspect areas – a higher pitched sound indicates a bubble or an area where the veneer isn’t adhered.  Roll down any improperly adhered areas and go over them with a smoothing blade. For a really persistent bubble, you may have to make a small slice in the direction of the grain with a razor knife to let out the trapped air.

Finally, turn the workpiece upside down on a cutting surface and trim the veneer with a razor knife using the edges of the substrate as a guide. Remember to make a few scoring strokes to establish the cut before bearing down on the veneer. Following adhesive and finish manufacturers’ instructions, allow ample curing time for the contact cement before finishing the piece.

Rockler Woodworking and Hardware offers everything you’ll need for your veneering project.  Rockler keeps a wide variety of veneers on hand, along with quality veneering supplies including adhesives, rollers, smoothing blades, veneer cutters, and scrapers.

Happy Woodworking!

Decreasing Humidity and Protecting Your Tools

It’s not always easy to predict or control the humidity in your woodshop, but ignoring the moisture in the air can have serious consequences. It doesn’t take long in damp air for corrosion to appear on your expensive woodworking tools. What can you do to protect your investment? Below, expert woodworkers Michael Dresdner and Rob Johnstone offer a few words of advice.

Q. I am in the process of setting up a woodworking shop in my basement. The basement is dry, but can get humid on occasion. Should I be concerned about my woodworking equipment rusting? If so, what can I do to prevent it?

A. Rob Johnstone: “There are several products on the market that protect against rust. It pretty easy to prevent surface rust on the exposed areas of your equipment, but the hidden (or more accurately enclosed) areas are a bit trickier. It would not hurt one bit to invest in a de-humidifier: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

A. Michael Dresdner: “Congratulations, and welcome to the club! You are about to embark on a long and very satisfying career of perpetually yearning to buy new tools, and trying valiantly to shoehorn them into your shop.

“There are two things you can do to keep them from rusting, and I would suggest doing both. First, coat all the exposed (unpainted) surfaces with either paste wax, or one of the many rust preventative coatings (Boeshield, Slipit, etc.), all of which work even better than wax. Second, invest in a good dehumidifier and run it during the wet season. (See, I told you this would lead to buying new tools!)”

(from the Woodworkers Journal eZine)

A dehumidifier is the most direct solution for a damp shop. Still, bringing the humidity down doesn’t eliminate the need for tool maintenance. Corrosion still takes place in “normal” ranges of relative humidity, although at a slower pace. Along with the effects of moisture, dust and grit routinely produced in a woodshop get into working parts and cause wear, and buildups of resin on blades and tool surfaces causes increased friction and poor tool performance.

The small amount of time and money involved in taking care of your tools and protecting them from the elements and excessive wear is a very worthy investment. Read more about what’s involved in Rockler’s article, “Tool Maintenance Made Easy“. And if that inspires you to step-up your tool care regimen, you’ll find everything you need in tool maintenance supplies right here at Rockler.

Dealing With the Effects of Moisture on Wood

There are numerous books and other sources of information explaining the effects of moisture on wood, drying techniques, and how to deal with ever-changing relative humidity. Understanding Wood, by Bruce Hoadley, is held by many to be the best, and covers moisture content thoroughly, along with just everything else you’d ever need to know about the physical properties of wood. We’re sure that all serious woodworkers have a copy of it – or a similar book – in their library, and are experts on the effects of wood moisture content. For anyone new to woodworking, here are a few of the basics:

The moisture content of a piece of wood is the ratio of the weight of the water in it to the weight of the wood fibers if they were completely dry. Usable lumber is produced by reducing the moisture content of green wood (sometimes well over 200 percent) to 12 – 18 percent by air drying, or to 6 – 10 percent by kiln drying. The purpose of doing this is to bring the wood into equilibrium with the relative humidity of the climate in which it is intended to be used. If a piece of wood is in perfect equilibrium with relative humidity of the air surrounding it, it will neither absorb moisture from the air, nor will the air absorb moisture from it. For the woodworker, equilibrium is a good thing, because it means that the wood will stay (for practical purposes) the same size and shape.

In reality, of course, there are changes in humidity, and they can be dramatic, especially in climates where heating greatly reduces the relative humidity indoors during the winter months. “Equilibrium moisture content” is really an ideal. The best you can do is to build with wood that has a moisture content suited to meet future changes in humidity, and to make allowances for variations in moisture content in the way your design and build your projects. To begin taking moisture content into account, you’ll need an accurate reading of the moisture content of the stock you use. And for that you’ll need a moisture meter.

There are two basic types of moisture meters to choose from: Pin-Style Moisture Meters and Pinless Moisture Meters. A pin-style meter has two probes, or “pins” that are pressed into the wood; the meter measures moisture content by measuring the resistance of the wood as the conductor of an electrical current from one pin to the other. A pinless moisture meter uses radio waves to create an electro-magnetic field penetrating the wood. The meter measures the reaction of the radio waves to the moisture in the wood.

The Digital Moisture Meter and an affordable Pin-Type Moisture Meter both give accurate readings of moisture content, but there are a couple of differences to consider: The Mini-Ligno offers a wider range of readings – from 6 to 36 percent compared, with 4 to 22 percent for the Wagner. The Mini-Ligno has a built in depth-adjustable set of pins with a convenient automatic activation switch in between. The Wagner Pinless Moisture Meter penetrates to a depth of ½ inch, and will give you a good idea of what is going on inside the wood, and not just on the surface – something that might not be easy to do with a pin-type meter in very hard wood. And of course, the pinless variety won’t leave two pinholes in your stock.

Adding either one to your tool collection, along with a reliable wood book, is an excellent way to begin sidestepping the frustrations that go along with ignoring moisture content: miter joints that pull apart, unexpected cupping or twisting, loose mortise and tenon joints, and a host of other surprise difficulties that can ruin a woodworker’s day.