This bookcase project combines some deceptively challenging woodworking to create a durable, attractive and modern storage system.
A common woodworking misconception is that simple joinery is easy to make. While it’s true that dadoes and rabbets are much more accessible than, say, secret miter joints, they must be cut to exacting tolerances to be done well. This is especially true when the joints remain exposed, as in these bookcases. Constructed from ApplePly, the joinery on the built-up shelves and uprights adds visual interest to the project’s clean lines. If the joints are really tight, they look great. If they have gaps, well … not so great.
For the bookcase diagrams and materials list in PDF format, click here.
I say all of this simply to encourage you. Should you decide to build this piece, take your time at each machining step to fit the parts carefully. Also, be sure to stay focused. There is nothing tricky about constructing these modular bookcases but, as I found out the hard way, a moment’s lapse in concentration can necessitate a complete “do-over” on an individual component.
Ripping the Stock
ApplePly has two major advantages for this project (although it can be built from other sheetstock, should you so choose): first, its regular voidless veneer construction creates an attractive edge for the shelves. Second, it is sold slightly oversized as compared to other sheetstock (48-1⁄2″ x 96-1⁄2″). That way, you can trim the edges off if they get dinged during shipping and handling.
I started the project by ripping 3/4″ by 12-1⁄8″ panels, the full length of the sheet. Then I glued and clamped pairs of the long panels into 1-1⁄2″-thick shelving blanks.
To save a little time when gluing up the shelves and uprights to be cut, the author used a moistened paint applicator to spread the glue.
These are really large pieces to handle during a glue-up, so here’s how I did it. Grabbing a large glue bottle, I swizzled a wiggly line of glue onto each piece. Then I borrowed a paint-pad usually used for wall painting, and dampened it with water. Using the painting pad, I spread the glue into a thin, smooth layer on each piece of plywood.
Once you have the glue applied, clamp the long, narrow blanks together and let them cure for at least four hours, or overnight if you have the time to spare.
Assembling the glueblank sandwich, I clamped them together and to my assembly table using square-head clamps with additional Jorgensen woodscrew clamps on either end. Clamping to the assembly table ensured that the glue-up would remain flat. Due to the extra moisture content in the glue and the large surface area, I allowed a minimum of four hours for the glue to cure. Most of the blanks I left in clamps overnight.
