New European Style Hinge for Lipped Cabinet Doors
posted on December 21, 2006 by Rockler

If you're fixing up an older kitchen, you'll be especially interested in this. Salice recently introduced a European style hinge designed to fit "lipped" cabinet doors. Until now, if you wanted to outfit 1940s and 1950s cabinetry with new hinges, your options were limited: You had a few styles of traditional wing hinges to choose from that were designed to fit cabinet doors with the 40s and 50s ubiquitous 3/8" deep lip around their edge. Now, thanks to the Salice Hinge and Plate for 3/8" Overlay Doors, you can take advantage of the features that make European style hinges (aka "cup hinges") the hinge of choice for just about all new kitchen cabinetry.

There are good reasons for the European style hinge's popularity. To start with, they're exceptionally durable and suited for a wide variety of applications. Most are self-closing, and many offer tool-free mounting and dismounting of the door once the hinge is installed. European style hinges are also 100 percent concealed from view when the cabinet door is closed, which means that you don't have to match the style of the hinge to the knobs and pulls you've picked out.

Most importantly, European hinges are exceptionally forgiving. The Salice hinge's three-way adjustability means you don't have to worry if the cabinets are a little out of square or the doors are a touch out of flat.  With a turn of a screw you can compensate for small irregularities in the shape and size of the cabinets and doors, and in a matter of a few minutes align the edges of an entire bank of cabinet doors - an important consideration if you're planning to update a set of 60 year old cabinets.

European hinges are also one of the easiest  to install of any type of hinge. There are no time-consuming mortising operations or the need for dead-on accuracy if the hinge and door to are going to end up in the right place. The adjustability feature and the fact that the hinges are hidden from view most of the time mean that you have a good deal more "wiggle room" than with many other types of hinge.

The installation will go even faster if you pick-up a Rockler JIG IT for Concealed Hinges. With the JIG IT, drilling the cup holes in exactly the right spot takes only a few seconds each.  And for those of you who already own the jig: The JIG IT will work for the new Salice hinge without the need for any add-on parts or adapters: Instead of using the pre-set 3mm and 5mm tabs, flip the guide plate around and use the adjustable slots on the other side.  Installing the Salice Hinge and Plate for 3/8" Overlay Doors is the same simple, foolproof procedure as with any other type of cabinet door you've come across.

posted on December 21, 2006 by Rockler
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Comments

2 thoughts on “New European Style Hinge for Lipped Cabinet Doors”

  • Jeremy

    This is good timing as I wanted to use this door type in my new kitchen, but was less than thrilled about the hinge avialability. Once again, procrastination pays off! I would like some more info on this hinge. The manufacturer's product ID would be helpful as I can't identify it on Salice's website by Rockler's description. I am interested if the door clears the opening (for slide out shelves). Also what are the specs on the mounting plate for using the hinge on non-face-frame or "less than standard" clearance between the FF and the cabinet side.<br />Thanks for any help.

  • Blog Editor

    Jeremy,<br /><br />Thanks for the question.<br /><br />The hinge bracket was developed exclusively for Rockler; that's why you won't find information on it on the Salice Website. The clearance required for the bracket between the cabinet wall and the edge of the face frame is 5/8". <br /><br />The hinge is not a "zero clearance" type of hinge. In other words, like most European hinges, the door edge does not end up outside of the cabinet opening when the door is opened all the way. You can get around this by making pullouts at a width that does clear the door edge, and then using a spacer block on the cabinet wall to make up the difference in width. You loose a little pullout width, but not a significant amount.

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- Orval - 08/07/2012
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