Adding the Outfeed Support and Casters
Use a long shim to fit the drawer slide into the cart for installation, while you have the cart inverted, bolt the casters onto the cart as well.
Hopefully, your helper is still within earshot to help you flip the project upside down on your bench … I found that to be the easiest way to install the rather heavy full-extension drawer slides (pieces 16). But first, grab a length of rope or a ratcheting tiedown to hold the wings closed before inverting the cart.
Detach the drawer side section of the slides and fasten them to the outfeed table cleats so the edges are flush, then reattach the slides to the cart.
When you study the Drawings, you’ll see that the outfeed table must be positioned low enough to close up inside the cart and accommodate for the height of the roller hardware — the top curve of the roller has to be even with or slightly lower than workpieces exiting your planer. All of this considered, I determined that my slides could be located 1″ down from the top inside face of the cart top. Then, I could shim the roller up as needed to suit my planer’s bed height. So, I used a long 1″-wide spacer to align each slide on the side panels while I drove the attachment screws. Position the ends of the slide housings flush with the back (outfeed) end of the cart when fully closed.
Once the slides are attached and ready to go, install the locking casters (pieces 15) to the cart bottom. I positioned mine 1/2″ in from the outside corners and drove 1/4″ x 3/4″ lag screws with washers to secure them. Flip the cart upright again.
Head back to the table saw to cut the outfeed table and a pair of cleats (pieces 17 and 18) to size. Round the outer corners of the table panel with 1″ radii, and ease its edges as you’ve done previously. Finish-sand these parts before fastening the cleats underneath the table panel so their rear ends are even with its back edge. Space the cleats accurately apart so they’ll align with the slides. Screw the “drawer side” sections of the slides to the cleats. Adjust the front ends of these parts flush.
Use a long level to measure the space between the outfeed table and the bed, so that you can properly allow for the space you need for the shim and rollers.
Once your outfeed table is installed, pull it out all the way, and position the roller (piece 19) near its end. Set your planer on the cart, and shift it so its infeed table, when lowered for use, is about even with the front (infeed) end of the project. Now use a long level, resting on the planer bed, to help measure the height between the planer bed and outfeed table surface. Subtract the height of the roller, and you’ll know the thickness you need to make the shim (piece 20) that will bring the roller up to final alignment. Make the shim and screw it to the metal parts and casters, and I sprayed on four coats of satin aerosol lacquer. It’s easy to apply, sufficiently durable and dries fast as lightning. I was all done spraying and the finish was dry in about two hours’ time. Finally, drill holes for the bolts you’ll need to secure your planer to the “deck.” I used carriage bolts, which allowed enough clearance for the outfeed table beneath. I fastened them with washers and nylon-insert lock nuts from above. Here’s a project that’s already getting a workout from me each time I process new lumber. I’m sure your cart will, too! outfeed table, 1/2″ from the end.
Once you have measured out the space for your shim, you can begin to start securing your roller assemblies and rollers to the outfeed table.
Fasten the roller housing to it, and clip in the roller. Verify that the height is correct using the level again. Workpieces should lightly graze the top of the roller as they leave the planer. Adjust the shim thickness now, if needed.
The Final Details
To ensure that the cart doesn’t move around while you’re using it, weighting it down with 50 lbs of sand can ensure more stable and safer planing.
Given the locking casters, an overall low stance and the weight of the plywood, this cart is very stable already. But since I anticipate needing to plane really thick and long stock now and again, I added 50 lbs. of mortar sand to the base. With this ballast, I may not even need to lock the casters for typical jobs. Then I cut the bottom shelf (piece 21) to size, sanded it and screwed it to the shelf supports and crosspiece.
Fill all the screw counterbores with wood plugs, and chisel them flush. The last step that stands between you and many hours of convenient planing to come is to finish your cart. Instead of removing all of the hardware, I simply masked off the metal parts and casters, and I sprayed on four coats of satin aerosol lacquer. It’s easy to apply, sufficiently durable and dries fast as lightning. I was all done spraying and the finish was dry in about two hours’ time. Finally, drill holes for the bolts you’ll need to secure your planer to the “deck.” I used carriage bolts, which allowed enough clearance for the outfeed table beneath. I fastened them with washers and nylon-insert lock nuts from above. Here’s a project that’s already getting a workout from me each time I process new lumber. I’m sure your cart will, too!
