Very useful in home workshop if on budget
Posted March 2, 2014
Unlike others, mine went together and works well. The outfeed table requires a little trial and error adjustment, but one right seems to have held the alignment. Blades a little tricky to adjust, again needing trial and error, but once set seems to remain aligned. I have had no power issues, even with hard maple, but can clearly hear that the machine is working hard. Waste ejection not very good, but hooking to a shop vacuum helps. I also must occasionally use a blower to clear the waste chip, or cut quality deteriorates.
For an old guy on SS, it is this or no jointer & planer at all. I am happy to have this, and it works fine in my garage workshop. It is clearly not up to production or jobsite duth however.
I have been wanting/needing a unit...
Posted May 16, 2009
I have been wanting/needing a unit like this for several years now and finally picked up my 10" planer/jointer combo unit yesterday. I have yet to use it however! After assembling everything, I found that the infeed table is out-of-square (left to right) across the cutter head. The table slopes down to the left end of the cutter head, taking a shallower cut near the fence. The maunal has a troubleshooting section but there is no information about table alignment anywhere. If I can figure out how to correct this alignment issue, I'm sure I'll get many years of reliable service for my new toy!
The design and precision of workmanship...
Posted November 17, 2009
The design and precision of workmanship of some aspects of this machine leave a lot to be desired. The upside to me is the compact size, since I have limited space in my basement workshop. I had a similar issue as the previous poster, with the front edge of the infeed table about 1/16 lower than the back edge, and no way to adjust this. Fortunately the two tables were relatively flat in the longitudinal axis (left-to-right), i.e. just a little bit of a break in alignment across the blades. To fix the back-to-front alignment, I custom machined some small parts to replace the factory-made ones (infeed table spacer, part # JJP8BT-51), and also converted the infeed table from a depth-adjustable one to one that is fixed in depth at about 1/16 , to enable me to adjust the alignment accurately. By design, the infeed table is suspended on two rods that pass between the front and back frame panels and through four infeed table spacers that ride in grooves cut into the frame. These grooves are angled at about 19 degrees downwards and to the right of the machine. Per design, adjusting the depth of cut involves moving the infeed table in or out towards or away from the blades, and in the process sliding the spacers with the rods slightly up or down in their grooves. These infeed table spacers consist of a square side that rides in the grooves, and a concentric cylinder that fits into holes in the infeed table. By machining four replacement parts so that the cylinder part is placed eccentrically with respect to the square part, I was able to lift the infeed table in the front and drop it in the back, resulting in a more level infeed table. Since the two tables were relatively flat in the longitudinal axis, and I had to adjust it only in one plane, I made the two front spacers identical to each other, and the same with the two back ones. Had the alignment been off across the blades in addition, I'd have had to figure out how much to adjust the sideways alignment and make the left spacers different from their right mates. In the process, I machined spacers that fit more snugly than the originals, eliminating some of the loose play of the infeed table in the original design. By also tightening the front nuts on the suspension rods, I fixed the front firmly to the frame, and left the back free to move as in the original. Now, small adjustments of the height adjustment knob rock the back edge of the infeed table slightly in or out and up or down, and allow for very accurate calibration. It took me a few evenings after work to make the replacement spacers, but the materials used were cheap. I used a ¼ x ¾ steel welding bar obtained from a DIY store, a drill press, a handheld rotating metal cutting tool, some files, an electronic depth gauge and an electronic caliper. Assembly requires removing the front and back covers, the drive chain and the two suspension rods with all their little parts (unplug it first!). It may be a little easier to just return the whole thing, but I figured the next one would probably not be that much different.