Woodworkers have used CA glue for years, but its extremely short open time and runny consistency have always limited its usefulness to certain areas, mostly turning. Enter Nexabond 2500, which lengthens the working time of the glue, yet bonds extremely quickly so you spend less time waiting for glue to dry, and more time working with wood.
- Winner of the 2013 Visionary Award from the Association of Woodworking and Furnishings Suppliers (AWFS).
- Forms a glue bond stronger than the wood itself.
- Sets in only minutes, cures in 1 hour!
- Bonds reach full strength after 8 hours in most subtrates.
- Generous open time gives you more time to work.
- Thick consistency won't run or drip.
- No activator required.
- Nexabond 2500 is ideal for joinery applications such as dowels, mortise and tenons, biscuits, dovetails and box joints.
- In addition to wood on wood joints, Nexabond bonds other materials to wood, such as metal, ceramic, glass, foam, leather, paper, composites, plastics and more.
- No water means no swelling and subsequent shrinkage.
- Unlike with water-based glues, you can sand or machine immediately after curing without worrying about joint lines becoming visible when the water evaporates and the joint line shrinks.
- Because Nexabond contains no water, it is also an excellent adhesive for joining extremely oily woods.
- Tight joints are important, since the parts won't swell as they do with waterbased glues.
- Accepts most stains and finishes.
- How to Apply Plywood Veneer Edge Banding to Solid Wood with Masking Tape Hold-Downs
- How to Apply Hot Melt Veneer Shelving Tape with a Hot Iron and J-Roller
- How to Renovate a Wall Cabinet with Maple Veneers and Paneling
- How to Stain Veneers to Match Hardwood Plywood Lumber
- Applying Unbacked and Sliced Veneer Sheets with Yellow Wood Glue
- Specialized Router Bits: Edge-banding Bits Cut Plywood Veneers with V-Groove Joinery
- Tips for Using a Clothes Iron to Apply Veneer to Plywood Shelving
- Top Routing Techniques: Cleaning Up Veneer
- Hand Saw Series - Veneer Saws
- Is Veneering Just for Experts?
- Veneers: Quarter or Plain Sliced?
- How to Make Wood Veneer Sheets With the Caul Veneering Technique
- How to Make a Shop-Made Veneer Press
- Bookmatch Larger Veneer Wood Sheets by Splicing and Joining
- Using Exotic Wood Veneer Sheets to Make Decorative Cabinet Drawer Fronts
- Apply Veneer with Contact Cement
- Thin Air Vacuum Veneer Press Tips
- Refacing Your Cabinets with Veneer
- Introduction to Veneering
- How to Tell the Difference Between Baltic and Veneer Birch Plywood
4 Review(s)View All
Awesome!Posted August 17, 2014
PERFECT viscosity, doesn't immediately absorb into the wood like some CA glues I have used, so it can get a good grip on both workpieces. I don't think I am replacing my Titebond with Nexabond, but Nexabond has earned a permanent home in my shop.
Other uses: today I had to fix one of my son's fireman costumes and I can't sew for anything. Tried fabric glue (two pieces of spandex/nylon) and it didn't hold. Went out to the shop, grabbed my Nexabond and used that. PERFECT. Wow, those two pieces of fabric will NEVER come apart. Fantastic!
NexabondPosted May 14, 2014
Hands down, the only wood "super" glue I will ever buy!Posted March 28, 2014
Do I start by comparing it to other products that say they can bond wood, but don't even hold a…bond when compared to Nexabond 2500?
Do I start by saying how much time this product has already saved me?
I have never tried a sample product and loved it so much that I went out and bought a bigger bottle almost immediately after I finished off the free test sample I received from a third-party product-testing company!
Because it has absolutely zero water content, this product does not swell the wood in the surfaces being glued. This means less clamping time, less clamping pressure, less sanding afterward.
The quick dry-time means you can handle, sand and machine the glue-up parts in 15 minutes to an hour (depending on how much surface you glued.
Less water, means more actual glue, which means, you will be able to use less Nexabond 2500 than you would normal wood glue. Less glue means less squeezeout.
So far, I have made two projects using this glue: Nine, red oak awards for a Boy Scout troop and a compost bin. Each project was a vastly different experience with this glue, but were very clear in how they justify this glue’s place in my shop.
I used Nexabond 2500 to make nine awards for a friend's son's Boy Scout troop. The awards were made from red oak with 18 precisely cut parts, precisely glued together to form each award. Each award was then sanded, stained then varnished. This project was when I fell in love with Nexabond 2500!
There were a lot of pieces that had to be glued and frankly, when I could not get the flush trim routing to make smooth cuts on all of the end-grain work, I was absolutely disheartened to think about how I would get this project to work. I thought I was going to have to make a little mortise and tenon to attach each piece to their mate because I absolutely did not want to have these things break. Clamping each of the little parts was going to take days with regular glue. This product test sample could not have come at a better time!
Once I cut, planed, and sanded all of the pieces, I laid them out on my glass top dining table (best place for glue ups in my opinion…just a quick run with a razor blade for cleanup). I started the process with the fletchings on each arrow, five very small dots of Nexabond on one piece, push it into place, hold for five seconds, five dots on the bottom or opposite piece, hold for five seconds, then put on the clamp, lightly squeeze, move onto same part…next award. By the time I got through all of the awards, and came back to the first award to start the second set of red oak fletchings, the clamps were more than ready to come off. Just to make sure, I smacked the first on the table at an angle (hitting the corner of the fletching) and it just didn’t budge! I ran through the entire assembly in that manner, one or two pieces on each one, clamp, rotate to next award. Took me the better part a Saturday, but I just don’t even want to think about how long it would have taken with normal wood glue.
One of the best parts of this whole project? Even with all that gluing and me using way too much at certain points, I only used two-thirds of the 1 oz. free test bottle I was sent.
My second project with the final one-third of the bottle was a compost bin made out of western red cedar.
The compost bin is a beast (has to be to hold my sawdust!), measuring five feet wide, two feet deep and three feet tall and is made entirely out of western red cedar fence planks purchased from a local home center. I cut and laminated four planks to form the corners (did not have Nexabond 2500 when I started this so I used an outdoor woodglue). I used three planks to form the cross bars. Each cross bar had a ¾” groove so that I could insert the sides, a ½” thick lattice I made by ripping the ¾” X 5” X 6’ boards into 3/16" X 3/4" slats, laying them out perpendicular to each other and gluing each one to the other with a dot of Nexabond 2500…that is…until I ran out. Which is where the story of how awesome this glue is begins!
In order to make this lattice without nails or staples (did not want to detract from the looks), I glued each slat to the each perpendicular slat beneath it with a tiny dot of Nexabond 2500. Once all of the glue dots were in place, I used a small spring clamp to hold it in place while I moved onto the next slat. This was a tedious, but efficient process…until my Nexabond 2500 sample ran out.
Since all three woodworking stores “nearby” are an hour away from my house, I decided to take the “quicker” route and go grab some super glue at a home center. I settled on Gorilla Super Glue Gel, thinking, the gel part might make it the same consistency as the Nexabond 2500 and since the packaging said Gorilla Super Glue Gel bonds wood, I hoped it would be “good enough”. Even with the Boy Scout awards experience behind me, I was not a complete Nexabond 2500 convert yet!
There were probably 500 joints I had to clamp on each side of this lattice (the multiple thicknesses of each slat made using a clamping caul a no-go). I instead, used small spring clamps to hold every joint in every row together, then moved them, one-by-one, to the next row's joints.
Well, western red cedar is very, very porous and pretty acidic and while the acidic nature does slow the dry time of the Nexabond 2500 a little (maybe 50% longer), it seemed to slow the Gorilla Super Glue Gel dry time...well, it just seemed to kill the dry time in some cases. As soon as I took the first clamp off of the first Gorilla Super Glue Gel joint, the joint popped apart after being clamped for ten minutes!
I only have so many little spring clamps and each time I would finish a row, I would start the next row by putting my glue dot on the cross-slats, setting the next slat, perpendicular across the glued cross slats, and transferring the spring clamp from the previous row to the new row (in the same order I had attached them to the previous row, oldest first). With the Nexabond, 2500, not a single glue joint popped apart. With Gorilla Super Glue Gel...I had to take fifteen minute breaks between rows—meaning the clamps had to be in place 25 minutes with each row (ten minutes each row from start to finish plus fifteen minutes clamping time).
What started as a quick (though tedious) and relatively painless job--with Nexabond 2500--turned into a full week-long affair with Gorilla Super Glue Gel.
As I said, at the very next opportunity, drove an hour to the woodworking store and purchased a bigger bottle of Nexabond 2500!
I honestly have nothing I can think of that would improve this product, it is, in a word, AWESOME!