- Overview
- More Info
- Reviews
Our acrylic cribbage templates let you drill 100 holes or more in minutes—making it easier than ever to create lots of games quickly, accurately, and with excellent repeatability! The 1/4'' acrylic templates are transparent for easy alignment, and protect your game boards during the drilling process. Choose from two different styles: Original and Track Style. Self-Centering Drill Bit sold separately below. Also available from Rockler, XL Cribbage Board Templates.
Technical Details:
- Original style Templates measure 3-3/4'' x 10-1/4''.
- Track style Templates Measure 5'' x 15''.
- Made of durable 1/4" thick acrylic.
- Attach with clamps or double-sided turner's tape.
- Includes template only, drill bit sold separately.
What's in the Box?
(1) 1/4" Acrylic Cribbage Drilling Template
|
| |
Customer Reviews and Photos for:
Standard Size Cribbage Board Templates
|
Average Rating:
4.0
(17 customer reviews)
Add your review...
|
|
|
1) Submitted by
Richard Wile, from Bedford, NOVA SCOTIA
on 4/21/2010
Customer Rating:
I have now made four boards from the template. Using the drill press seems to be the only way to get consistent (straight) holes and minimize wear and tear on the template.The challenge was the recess for the pegs, building a jig and the router collar worked just fine - I inset a rare earth magnet into the board and a washer into the dovetailed cover to hold it in place. As others have stated you must seal the wood before drawing the lines (I used an ultra fine Sharpie, I sealed it with a few wipes of my homemade shellac, which dries virtually instantly. Fifteen two, fifteen four and two is six...
|
|
2) Submitted by
Shawn Petersen, from St. Paul, MN
on 4/30/2011
Customer Rating: 
I purchased the template and drill bit a few months ago. I finally got around to building a board and decided to use some leftover oak plywood to make it a little different. I am in the process of making a few more boards now. The template worked well and secured nicely to the wood using double sided tape. A few of the holes ended up not being inline but I an sure that had more to do with user error rather then the template.
|
|
3) Submitted by
John, from Pueblo West, CO.
on 11/1/2009
Customer Rating: 
I used the template to make a cribbage table for my daughter. She wanted 4 tracks so friends could all play, and using the track template it was very easy to adjust to add another track on either side to make the 4 tracks.I found that using a fine point sharpie permanent marker worked better than the paint stick with the marking template.
|
|
4) Submitted by
Dad, from Indianapolis, IN
on 8/7/2009
Customer Rating:
I have used this product to make 3 boards so far. No problems so far just make sure you use a fast enough drill speed - 1000 rpm plus lean and clear drilling. The line template should be used only after sealing the wood in order to provide a surface for the paint to adhere to. I use two coats of spray shellac lightly sanding to 1200 grit between coats and followed by one coat after 30 minutes of allowing the paint to dry.
|
|
5) Submitted by
Melvin Neill, from Baker City, OR
on 3/23/2009
Customer Rating:
Like very well. Use it all the time. Best thing to come along for making boards.
|
|
6) Submitted by
Charles Stromme, from Cottage Grove, OR
on 12/5/2008
Customer Rating:
I bought these products in about 2006 or so. The template is fine, not perfect, and I've made a dozen or so boards with it for gifts. The holes tend to wear out and open up but a lighter touch (than mine) might be the answer for that. The bit is fine. I bought two of the fine pens and the line template but the ink ran (spread) on one of my first boards, spoiled it, and I won't use them again. Yes, I should have tried them on some scrap first. Later, I did try them on scraps and couldn't find a species they wouldn't run on when applied. As an alternative, add skunk holes to the drilling template which is what I did later on, just something to indicate where the skunk lines are. That would make a much better template but at the cost, I suppose, of selling pens and line templates. The other lines are simply decorative and you may or may not like them. They don't add anything that I value, I don't use them and I don't miss them. I use double-sided tape to attach and that works fine for me. Although this product is less than perfect, if you use it with just a little care and use decent wood with a careful finish you can make cribbage boards that your friends will be happy to receive. I just dragged mine out the other day to make up a surprise commission for two of them for gifts. That more than paid for the original cost of the template. All in all, I would buy the template again if I don't have an aluminum version made up locally.
BTW, the Rockler premium pegs are the best I've ever used and should be the only ones you consider.
|
|
7) Submitted by
Myron Bernard, from McCormick, SC
on 5/6/2008
Customer Rating:
I fastened the template with a small piece of double-sided tape in each corner and used the self-centering bit to drill the holes. Extremely easy. I used a scratch awl with the line template and then painted in the the grooves. Looks great. I also drilled a hole in each side of the starting end and turned a small tapered peg to use for peg storage.
|
|
8) Submitted by
Matt from MN
on 1/2/2008
Customer Rating:
To hold the cribbage board template down I used two number 2 or 3 screws with washers (one on each end). I laid the template on the piece and drilled a hold thru one the template holes (where one of the pegs would go) with a 1/16 bit. I used a screw with washer and screwed it right to the piece. After I was all done with the drilling of the holes, I removed the screws and drilled the last two 1/8 inch holes where the screws were. The screws were smaller than a 1/8 of an inch so you'll never know. Worked great.
|
|
9) Submitted by
Bob Piche, from Ottawa, ON CANADA
on 12/23/2007
Customer Rating:
Regarding the templates and to fasten them to the wood. What I did is lightly hammer tiny nails in the cribbage holes in the corners (4), Then I used the Rockler 1/8" insty-drive self centering bit to do all the holes leaving the four ones where I put the nails in to do last. That was easy!!!
bob
|
|
10) Submitted by
Gene Mollenhauer, from Toddville, IA
on 12/21/2007
Customer Rating:
I purchased the cribbage board template and recommended self align drill bit. I designed a board using light and dark woods and the template has been wonderful to use. I used double sided tape to attach to the board. Only had to use a few small pieces and it worked fine. I then designed a base for the board to set in for the cards and pegs to be stored. Everyone loves the board.
|
|
11) Submitted by
Robert A. Settineri, from Edenton, , NC
on 7/24/2008
Customer Rating: 
This is a gift for a friend. He needs more width than the jig offers so I made him an alternate one where the "end" holes are at double the separation. Made from polycarbonate instead of acrylic it will be more durable.
|
|
12) Submitted by
Lewis, from Janesville, CA
on 9/14/2010
Customer Rating:
I purchased this template some years ago and used it for 3 boards and noticed that the self-centering bit was eroding the plastic template. I then got a 1/8" piece of tempered aluminum and made a new template. This works much better without the problem of eroding the holes. Also, the use of double stick tape is much easier than trying to attach the template with screws etc.
|
|
13) Submitted by
Cal Pond, from Calgary, AB
on 7/3/2011
Customer Rating:
I've manually created several cribbage boards previously, but having access to a template makes the process much, much easier. If anyone wants to add lines, and more specifically text like "skunk line" to their board, use Letraset rub-on lettering. Finish the board with one coat of your preferred product to seal the wood, then apply the lettering on top of this. I then sealed mine with a second spray coat of Varathane to seal the lettering as well. The end result is extremely professional and tidy. You used to be able to buy Letraset products from local drafting supply stores, but in case you don't have one in your area, you can also purchase the sheets of lettering lines, symbols, etc. from letraset.com.
|
|
14) Submitted by
Keith Schwartz, from Washington, MI
on 7/25/2011
Customer Rating:
My first attempt ended up with a few holes drilled out of line. What I found was I had to be extra careful when making first contact between the 'self-centering' drill bit assembly and the template. When I made the second board, I noticed a few times where the drill bit mechanisim didn't center itself properly, and I stopped feeding the drill before it made contact with the wood. All I had to do was back the drill out slightly and feed it a bit slower until proper contact was made, and then finished drilling the hole. I plan on plugging the few holes drilled out of line on the first board crotch figured black walnut and re-drilling them. It's a nice piece of wood and the mis-aligned holes stick out like a neon sign in the middle of a desert! A slight chamfer, 0.015"-0.025" deep, on each hole would help the bit center better. As for adding lines, I skipped the whole paint or Sharpie problem and used Dry Transfer Decals from Woodland Scenics. These are available at most Hobby Shops in the Model Railroading department. They will work on bare wood, but I would suggest at least one coat of sealer before applying the stripes, and also that you test the stripes on a scrap piece of wood with the sealer or finish of your choice to make sure the chosen finish doesn't attack the ink used to make the dry transfers. They come in multiple colors and widths, and are very easy to apply. They also have a wide selection of letters and numbers in different fonts and sizes if you wish to add names or numbers to the board.
|
|
15) Submitted by
Mark, from Murfreesboro, TN
on 9/8/2012
Customer Rating:
OK, got the jig, stuck it down to a test piece, and tried the holes with both a drill press and a hand drill. I personally got much better results with a hand drill. It's too hard to align the self-centering bit on each hole using a drill press. I can see already that the jig won't last an awfully long time due to the self-centering bit "countersinking" each template hole. I tried taking the bit apart and lubing, oiling, and waxing the insides and each method worked for a short time but soon the centering part of the bit began spinning again. The answer to this is to make a bit like the ones used in Rockler's shelf pin jig which has a collar that actually rides inside the hole. It also makes for a perfect hole perfectly aligned each time. It would be worth re-making the template even if it had to be re-indexed halfway through the drilling process. Pre-drilled indexing holes could be added and the template shifted to allow the close proximity required for this pattern. This template should last longer than a few times before losing its accuracy. I really think this would make for a much better template.
|
|
16) Submitted by
Gary Reuter, from Amery, WI
on 10/9/2012
Customer Rating:
I have had good luck with the template. The only issue is with the bit. Others mention it spinning and damaging the template. I had the same problem until I put a small amount of high temp bearing grease on each end of the spring. I have drilled 8 boards since and works fine.
|
|
17) Submitted by
Tom, from Savage, MN
on 2/21/2007
I bought the cribbage board template and recommended drill bit assembly on a Friday and returned it on Monday. Fastening the template to the board to be drilled appeared to be extremely "user unfriendly." Why isn't there an extra inch or two of material on the template that would allow one to use woodscrews or bolts to hold the template in place?
Editor's note:
Thanks for the suggestion, Tom. We've forwarded it to our product development team. We suggest using double-sided tape such as our #50492 to hold the template to the board while drilling.
|
Home  Wood Products Hobby Kits and Small Wood Parts Game Pieces and Templates Standard Size Cribbage Board Templates 
|
(0 Items)
