Customer Reviews and Photos for:
45° Lock Miter Router Bit
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Average Rating:
3.8
(19 customer reviews)
$57.99
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1) Submitted by
Jim, from North Wales , PA
on 3/27/2011
Customer Rating:
I was happy with this bit, it worked as promised.
I practiced on poplar before moving to cherry. When used properly the corner joint pretty much disappears from view. Like all fine woodworking proper alignment and flat wood delivers excellent results.
Newel post base
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2) Submitted by
Ron Dunlap, from Anaheim, CALIFORNIA
on 3/27/2011
Customer Rating: 
I use the 45 lock miter bit to give me face grain on all four sides of the Stickley style funiture legs I make. Several comments have been made on how sensitive the set up is on this bit. I have found that by the use of a digital height guage, I can set the bit height spot on. I measure the thickness of the stock and devide by half and add .22 in. I derived the .22 in. by measuring from the top of the juncture where the 45 cutting surface meets the top cutter arm and the bottom juncture where the bit is 45 deg. again. On my bit this measured out at .44. I take half the stock meassurement, add .22 in. and set my digital height gage to that measurement. I raise the bit untill the gage contacts the juncture of the top 45 cutter where it meets the top cutter arm and I'm spot on. I usually make at least three passes to sneak up on the final edge and minimise chipping and tearout. I have had great results with the bit. I almost never need to test cut anymore
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3) Submitted by
Swede Nelson, from Watford City, ND
on 3/1/2011
Customer Rating:
I bought the jig also and it is an excellent tool. Using the jig it takes no time at all to be set up and running. Would definitely recommend this to anyone.
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4) Submitted by
J. Scott, from Las Vegas, NEVADA
on 2/22/2011
Customer Rating:
As a hobby-intermediate level woodworker, I didn't have any trouble setting the height. For the trickier vertical piece, I simply taped a flat board to the bottom outside of the workpiece and clamped a 2x4 to the routertable to make a track for both the workpiece and the flat board. I've made several columns with an MDF substrate and wood veneer. The lock-miter joint appears far superior to a regular miter. Great bit!
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5) Submitted by
Don Lucas, from Eugene, OR
on 12/19/2008
Customer Rating:
Bit is high quality and makes good, clean cuts, IF--
you are extremely careful and precise in your setups. I believe that a good quality router table, fence system, and "sled fixture" are absolutely mandatory, for successful cuts with this bit. Be extra careful when you are cutting the "half of the joint" where the work piece must be held in a vertical position. Do not even think about trying to hold the work piece "by hand" and guide it along the router table fence. The work piece must be firmly clamped in a suitable fixture (I used my table saw tenoning jig, for the vertical cuts). You only get "one chance" with this bit. If the work piece moves the slightest amount during the cut, the joint will be "sloppy and loose".
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6) Submitted by
Richard Herman, from Suwanee, GA
on 12/3/2008
Customer Rating:
I am building a toy box for my brand-new grandson (so I have a little time to finish it). I set it up in my router table (did not order/use the jig), made a couple of small adjustments, ran both edges through on the same setting, and whipped all four sides (eight cuts) in no time at all. It worked exactly as advertised.
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7) Submitted by
Mike Elliott, from Richmond, TX
on 3/8/2009
Customer Rating: 
This bit will produce very nice results but a tenon jig or something like it MUST be used for making the vertical cross grain end cuts on smaller stock like 1 1x4 or a 1x6 which is exactly the type of cut that you will be making for small jewelry boxes, etc. If you try and make it without the tenon jig your results will be poor and you very well might be seriously injured in the process. If your cute are long vertical cute then it will not mater and the bit will work just fine without the tenon jig. I repeat, the vertical cut with this bit is very dangerous without the use of a tenon jig to hold the material steady and secure. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS BIT. My rating of only a 3 is because of the dangerous nature of this produce, not its result.
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8) Submitted by
Ted Trask, from Wichita, KS
on 10/1/2008
Customer Rating:
I am building a bed for my Grandson and wanted to make the corner posts of the head board and footboard out of quarter sawn white oak with face grain showing on all 4 sides. I cut this profile on about 115 lineal feet of 1" white oak stock after putting a 45 bevel on each edge of all 16 components on the table saw. (both edges of 4 sides of 4 posts.) This was my first experience with this and after lots of trial and error getting set up finally got started. The bit performed very well.
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9) Submitted by
Terry, from Milwaukie, OR
on 10/20/2008
Customer Rating:
I bought this bit, and the setup jig. The setup jig didn't fit the blade profile, so I tossed it! After many test cuts, and adjustments, I was able to get nice clean cuts. Using baltic birch (void free)plywood the trick is to move the fence and make multiple passes. Instead of taping a guide block, I made a sled fixture to hold the workpiece square and flush to the fence. I also discovered that the bit setup is different for corners than flat joints. After you get it, be sure to make your own setup jigs! Overall, this is a decent bit, but due to the setup difficulty I rate it good.
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10) Submitted by
Steven Bommelje, from Visalia, CA
on 9/26/2009
Customer Rating:
First time I used it, it wasn't a good experience on 3/4 oak. Oak splinters - it's too much bite for one pass. This time I set up the fence & bit height and verified with a sample. I clamped a second fence behind the router fence to hold that final position and inserted 1/4 and 1/8 spacers between reducing the depth of cut. Four passes increasing the depth of cut worked.
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11) Submitted by
Butch, from Vista, CA
on 3/2/2007
Check closely if you purchase the set-up jig (53817) to ensure it is the right profile. Sometime over the years the profile has been changed slightly and the jig did not match the 22627 Lock Miter bit which I had purchased previously. Take some time and make your own set-up blocks from materials of thicknesses you tend to work with most of the time. The lock miter bit when properly set up works great, I've used mine for years.
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12) Submitted by
R. Harting, from Camby, IN
on 1/1/2007
Great bit. Be careful when working against the grain on plywood. The veneer tends to tear out. I put electrical tape over the area near the top of the cut and that stopped some but not all of the tear out.
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13) Submitted by
Pete Newman, from Lilburn, GA
on 10/7/2008
Customer Rating: 
For the life of me I cannot get this darn thing to work. I even bought the jig that goes with it.
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14) Submitted by
Jack, from Stockton, CA
on 1/15/2008
Customer Rating: 
I've had a lot of tear our problems with plywood. The side running "down" flat on the table worked great. But the side that runs upright against the fence is tearing something awful. I've tried tape (masking not electrical) and it ripped through the tape and piled it up between the fence and piece ruining the cut. I plan on trying a scoring cut with a utility knife next.
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15) Submitted by
Steve Lindhurst, from Wilmer, AL
on 5/30/2008
Customer Rating:
The bit is not designed to be used in cheap plywood. I believe it is meant primarily to be used on hardwoods. However, if you try it on some baltic birch or equivalent, I think you will see that your results are much different. A great product.
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16) Submitted by
Jesse, from Eufaula, AL
on 6/16/2008
Customer Rating:
Very fine tool, but I need to learn more about how to use it for vertical cuts. On wide boards that slip right across the fence not a problem. On narrow boards I have not yet been successful in holding a square face to the bit, and cuts go everywhere. Over all good bit, but I need training.
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17) Submitted by
Tony, from Akron, OH
on 2/27/2011
Customer Rating:
This is a fantastic bit. Its ten times easier than the same method with a tablesaw, or just butting two miters together. Everyone who rated this bit lower than 5 for difficulty or danger has forgotten that all tools are dangerous and this is the easiest way to make the strongest miter joint possible without dowels or biscuits. If only the users of this tool were as fantastic as the bit itself.
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18) Submitted by
Perry, from Richland, WA
on 3/30/2011
Customer Rating:
I liked the bit. With a little time to figure out how to set it up, I was able to make very tight and square joints.
A couple of things though:
1. - The B height of the bit's cutting edge is 7/8" and the height of the angle cutting portion is 13/16".
2. – I believe the setup blocks are a waste of time and money.
You will spend all of your time trying to find or plane wood to exactly 3/4" - suspect that is not going to be easy. Plywood is already 11/16"
Best to center by raising the bit to an approximate center, move the fence so just the leading edge of the center cutter is exposed. Then run a wood scrape half way past the bit, turn over the wood scrape and run it again to meet the first cut. Adjust the bit height up-down to 1/2 the difference of the two cuts - then retest and confirm the center.
3. - Suggest that in making the joinery edge, don't try to get a sharp knife edge.
It is nearly impossible to make the tolerance without some overcutting of the edge. If the tolerance isn’t made when cutting, the milled edge will then be unsupported by the fence by the depth of the overcut. And will cause a wavering of the edge and some skipe at the tail end when the piece as it becomes unsupported when passing the bit opening in the fence.
Suggest leaving 1/64" - 1/32" - It will not be noticeable in the finished joint and will help to prevent tear out of the edge.
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19) Submitted by
Joseph , from Winter Garden, FL
on 4/16/2008
Customer Rating:
I have also had some problems with tear out, especially on plywood. I solved it by ripping to size after the routing operation. If care is taken on the setup then it makes a very strong joint
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