Customer Reviews and Photos for:
Hex Drive Threaded Inserts
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Average Rating:
3.7
(16 customer reviews)
$6.99
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1) Submitted by
John Webb, from Litchfield, ME
on 4/10/2013
Customer Rating: 
Have a futon with wooden arms with magazine holders. The original threaded inserts which held the futon frame to the arms were so thin they cracked and the bolts literally pulled out and the frame collapsed. After several failed attempts at repair I bought these tapered hex inserts for 5/16" bolts. With a 1/2" pilot holes these worked well and the futon is better than new.
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2) Submitted by
Duane E. Mann, from Woodbine, IA
on 6/13/2012
Customer Rating: 
The secret with these inserts is using the correct size pilot hole. My suggestion is that you test fit an insert into a scrap of the wood you are using to make sure you find the right size pilot hole that will allow the insert to be put in place without too much resistance that the insert breaks or you split your workpiece. Also, I put these inserts in by hand using a double nuted bolt that I screw all the way into the insert and then lock the bolt with a double nut and use a small socket and ratchet to drive it in place. You will not break the insert this way. If you are trying to drive these inserts with a power drill you are asking for trouble.
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3) Submitted by
Michael R. Gottschall, from Bellevue, NE
on 6/16/2011
Customer Rating: 
These worked very well in the end grain of baby crib I made using cherry! I used a 15/32 drill bit for the starter holes and had no trouble installing them with my hex wrench.
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4) Submitted by
John, from Midland, MI
on 1/26/2011
Customer Rating: 
Worked well however did strip out/crack some hex inserts while installing in Ash - solved by wobbling the drill just a bit to enlarge the hole slightly. Then all was fine and trouble free.
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5) Submitted by
Chris, from Dallas, TEXAS
on 10/29/2010
Customer Rating: 
I've been using these inserts in the furniture that I build for my customers. After stripping out the allen socket multiple times, I cut down a bolt slightly so that it doesn't protrude past the end of the insert, then used a socket in my cordless drill to drive the insert in. This method works really well.
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6) Submitted by
Mike Fraher, from Dripping Springs, TX
on 12/2/2012
Customer Rating: 
This pot metal barely works in hardwood. Test holes a must because the recommended sizes were impossiblly too small. I had taught myself the double nut method driving hanger bolts for table legs. After stripping a couple hex inserts I applied the double nut. I came to write my tip and found Duane making the same recommendation. I use these inserts in the aprons for the rockler table angles. I have to enlarge one of the holes to 5/16 to fit the 1/4 hex bolts I use.
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7) Submitted by
Laurie Lewis, from Calgary, ALBERTA
on 4/14/2010
Customer Rating: 
I initially tried to install the insert by using a hex bit in my hand drill. That doesn't work very well and I had to remove a couple of broken inserts. I removed them by using epoxy, inserting a 1/4 - 20 hex nut and turning over the board so that the epoxy would flow towards the bolt. Next day, a wrench removed the bolt and insert easily. I found that using a ratchett works well.
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8) Submitted by
Mark Lewis, from Asheville, NC
on 11/18/2009
Customer Rating: 
Worked perfectly. I can't understand why others had trouble, because these were so easy to install: Drill a hole; Put a hex drive on a socket wrench; Turn.
I've used the 1/4" size in Maple and Red Oak--both end grain--with absolutely no resistance, breakage, splitting, etc. And they hold tight, unlike some of the T-nut options out there.
I used a 7/16" bit for both, but if you simply read the back of the package, the suggested bit sizes are listed for hardwood or softwood applications. A 15/32" bit is recommended for hardwood (NOT a 3/8" hole, as others mentioned). I always start with a smaller hole first, however, because you can make a hole bigger, but not smaller! The 7/16" hole worked on the first test--held fast, and the insert went in with no more torque than needed to run a machine screw.
Great item.
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9) Submitted by
J.W.Haynes, from Spruce Pine, NC
on 6/18/2009
Customer Rating: 
Worked great. You just have to make sure the correct size hole is drilled. I installed mine into red oak with a hex wrench with no problems.
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10) Submitted by
Nolan Brown, from Vilonia, AR
on 4/20/2009
Customer Rating: 
I used the inserts to repair 33 office chairs that had been delivered and set up by a vendor. The people who assembled and installed the previous inserts did not tighten them even hand tight. When I was called upon, months later, to repair the chairs, I used your inserts which were slightly larger and therefore were a perfect fit for the project. I used an 8mm Allen driver in a half-inch driver drill to drive and torque the bolts. Perfect solution to a problem that could have been prevented, but wasn't.
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11) Submitted by
Jim Henderson, from Cromwell, CT
on 11/23/2008
Customer Rating: 
Worked extremely well in end grain. Used the recommended bit size and a 3/8 drive hex metric socket, 3' extension and ratchet handle. Used parafin to lube threads before installing. Very easy and smooth install.
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12) Submitted by
John Saunders, from Lenoir, NC
on 1/19/2007
I had very good success with these threaded inserts. I used them in a maple workbench. I did break a couple until I drilled the correct pilot hole and allen wrench that fit properly. I used a bit of Gorilla Glue on the threads and it had set-up when I tried to make adjustments on the inserts, causing them to break. I learned after the glue dried, to leave them alone. I also used the brass inserts and found them more difficult to screw into the maple until I fabricated a tool to screw them into the wood. The tool is available but oft times you do-it-yourself.
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13) Submitted by
Eugene Rizner, from Brandon, VERMONT
on 3/16/2006
Forty inserts came with a hardware kit for the 3-in-1 transitional bed. The featured bed is made of maple, as is the one I am building. The first two inserts I used broke. A metric allen wrench fit best, but it was still a loose fit. The end of the insert broke off before fully seating in the hole. I wouldn't recommend these for use in balsa wood, let alone maple.
Editor's Note: Wood hardness varies depending on moisture, grain, etc. It is important to use the correct size pilot hole when installing these inserts. For the 31872 (1/4" size) a 11/32" pilot hole is recommended for softwood and a 3/8" pilot hole is recommended for hardwood. For the 31880 ( 5/16" size) a 7/16" pilot hole is recommended for softwood and a 1/2" pilot hole is recommended for hardwood. In addition, we've found a little beeswax applied to the threads can be tremendously helpful.
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14) Submitted by
Wally Crawford, from Stanfield, NC
on 12/5/2008
Customer Rating: 
My experience was similar to others. I am making my transitional bed out of Cherry, and the inserts stripped out with a 3/8" hole as directed. I found the 11/32 worked better but was still not foolproof. Harder material and a better fit for the allen wrench is needed as a real sloution.
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15) Submitted by
Matt Buckli, from Stoughton, WI
on 2/24/2009
Customer Rating: 
They worked well except in end grain. I did not have the bit size called for in the plans so I had to make due with 3/8". The hex slot needs to either be slightly deeper or a tighter fit. I will certainly try to use some wax before next time. I would like to ask for some help. I need to get a few of the inserts out and could use some suggestions. Any help is appreciated.
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16) Submitted by
Drew Shelton, from Georgetown, TX
on 3/5/2008
Customer Rating: 
I, too, am building the 3-in-1 transitional bed in maple. It doesn't help that the packaging doesn't say what size allen wrench to use to drive them. I've found that 6mm works best, but it's still a loose fit. A 3/8" hole is recommended for hardwoods, but that's not big enough. The plans call for 3/8" holes everywhere except endgrain, where it calls for 13/32". I've re-drilled all holes to be 13/32", and I'm still stripping some of the inserts. 7/16" is too loose, but perhaps some epoxy could fix that. I'll definitely try the beeswax idea mentioned in another review before trying larger holes.
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