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- Overview
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Set comes complete with four hook plates and 16 pins for holding them in place.
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Use two plates on each end to make a sturdy bed frame. Just create slots in the head- and foot-boards to receive the hooks.
Hooks are made for pins which are 2'' on center. They require a 3/32'' kerf which is 3 - 1/2'' high X 1 - 1/8'' deep on the bed rail.
For the bed post the kerf should be 3/32'' and 5'' high X 1 - 3/8'' deep.
The mounting holes for pins are 19/64'' in diameter. 16 pins are included.
We suggest these hooks be used for replacement only, not used on new construction.
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Customer Reviews and Photos for:
Bed Rail Hooks
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Average Rating:
(4.0)
(6 customer reviews)
Add your review...
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1) Submitted by
Jean, from Lake Charles, LA
on 12/30/2009
Customer Rating:
I used these hooks as part of a repair project for a bed that was in storage for too long. The old hooks had bent themselves out of shape because of how the rails wew stored. This was the only website I could find that sold this product for so reasonable a price. The repair was easy. I've had no troubles.
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2) Submitted by
Dean, from New Market, AL
on 11/14/2008
Customer Rating: 
The hooks worked very well and good sturdy quality. I used my skill saw to make the mortises then cleaned them up with my jigsaw. My 3 year old is very excited about her new cherry bed.
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3) Submitted by
Curt Gleim, from Noblesville, IN
on 11/10/2008
Customer Rating: 
This set of hooks seemed to be the most secure way to mount rails to a headboard/footboard. The only problem was that the instructions specify a 3/32" mortise 1 3/8" deep in both the rail and post. Nobody had any idea how to make a mortise that thin and that deep. Ended up taking these back and getting something else.
Editor's note: We suggest these hooks be used for replacement only, not used on new construction.
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4) Submitted by
Mike Anderson, from Highland Park, IL
on 2/8/2009
Customer Rating:
This is the only option I could find, where the hardware is 'hidden' and requires no screws/bolts, etc. I realized I could not make a slot that deep and thin, so I doubled up on the plates by buying two kits. Still had a heck of a time getting the slots cut, as I did not want to cut the slot with a table saw and leave an open slot on the bottom of the rail (granted, I could have filled it with wood and glue). I used a large industrial drill press and a standard drill bit to make the slot. I drilled a bunch of holes very close apart and then ran the drill bit back and forth like it was a straight inline router bit. It worked, and I didn't bust the drill bit. The slot was not a perfect slot, but it is all hidden, once you connect the rail to the post.
As my dad used to say: "it ain't going anywhere", and my daughter's birdseye maple/walnut bed with one inch thick maple side rails and 2.5" square maple posts is very sturdy and a breeze to assemble/disassemble (but very heavy), and I did not use any screws on the headboard and footboard.
I am now going to purchase another pair for a bed I am going to make out of white ash. I now do not have access to the industrial drill press, but I will figure out a way to drill the slots.
Unlike the editor's advice, I highly recommend this on new construction for a clean solution.
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5) Submitted by
Bob
on 9/17/2009
Customer Rating:
This package was perfect! I completed my bed rails for about $100.00 saving about $220.00 over purchasing new ones.
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6) Submitted by
Roman, from Enfield, CT
on 11/18/2008
Customer Rating: 
Make the mortise with a 3/32 thin-kerf blade on a circular saw. I also build a jig that I clamped on the end of the rail which helped keep the saw steady and simply cut the slits to the proper depth. Then, after mounting the claw, I back filled the 3/32" slits at the exposed edge with some scrap, sanded, and it was done. Make sure you determine how high the claw sits on your head/footboard before you mount them.
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