- Overview
- More Info
- Reviews
Homestead dry dyes come in a fine powder form and are used to make dye-based stain for wood. Once dissolved, they can also be added to water-based clear finishes as toners or used to modify the color of off-the-shelf waterborne stains. Dyes contain no fillers or extenders; one ounce of dry dye makes two quarts of stain. Dye stains are colorfast and can be applied with brush, cloth, or sprayed. Available in a variety of popular colors, which can be mixed to produce an endless array of hues.
|
Technical Details
- Water soluble powered dyes
- Contain no VOC’s (volatile organic compounds)
- Non-flammable, virtually oderless
- Colors can be mixed
What’s in the Box
One 1 oz. bottle of Homestead Dry Dye
|
| |
Customer Reviews and Photos for:
Homestead Dry Dyes
|
Average Rating:
4.2
(13 customer reviews)
$12.29
Add your review...
|
|
|
1) Submitted by
Dale Maley, from Fairbury, IL
on 3/30/2013
Customer Rating: 
I recently scroll sawed some wood lily flowers using the compound cut method. I used common pine, then dyed the flower petals bright yellow using the yellow dye. The wooden flowers turned out very nice with the yellow color.
Pine dyed yellow for lily wood flower
|
|
2) Submitted by
Robert, from San Diego, CA
on 1/29/2012
Customer Rating:
I used black, cardinal red, and yellow to color a turned bowl using a layering technique. The quality of the color is incredible on the ash vessel. I purposely didn't want a complete coverage of some of the colors, so it worked well for my needs. One thing to note though, out of the 3 jars of colors the amounts of powder in each one was completely different, although the amount I have will last a long time.
|
|
3) Submitted by
Terry T, from Orlando, FL
on 12/13/2011
Customer Rating:
I use as a thin wash to let original grain and some color show through. Immediately after application, I wipe it off with a dry cotton cloth for the effect. I don't measure, but use only a tiny pinch of dye in about 4 to 8 oz denatured alcohol instead of water. A few more grains of dye in water and leaving it to soak into the wood will give a more intense color. However, the water raises the grain more than does alcohol, requiring more light sanding or steel wool work. To prevent too much absorption at end grain, I first lightly seal the end grain with very thin shellac mix. Can also be mixed with wood glue so squeeze out and slight gap filling is less visible. Love this product!
|
|
4) Submitted by
Tom Kulek, from Hastings, NE
on 4/10/2011
Customer Rating:
My chest has several knots and holes in the red cedar wood so I filled them with filler and then applied the Burnt Sienna dye to the spots. The color matched perfectly and you cannot tell they were even there. This is a great product and I will recommend it.
|
|
5) Submitted by
Dale Maley, from Fairbury, IL
on 4/5/2010
Customer Rating:
My sister-in-law, the math teacher, came up with a project for me. She wanted a pie made from wood, where she could take half the slices, put them into the other slices, and show the area of a circle. I decided to try all 3 Rockler dyes (yellow, green, aqua) on the plain pine that I used. The dye colors came out reasonably well, especially when you consider that plain pine is very difficult to stain. I applied polyurethane over the dye to finish the project.
|
|
6) Submitted by
Dale C. Maley, from Fairbury, IL
on 3/13/2010
Customer Rating:
I have been using red padauk and purple heartwood from Rockler for some time to add color to the mechanical models I design and make. I tried the yellow dye (see my other review) and it worked fine. I went ahead and bought the blue and green dyes. In this model I used yellow for the pins in the grist mill gearing, and green for the dowel pins retaining the gears. The crank handle is also green. The additional dye colors spruced up the visual image of my model. I mix up half a baby food glass container for each color, and it stores fine for future projects.
Combination grist mill and bevel wood gear model
|
|
7) Submitted by
Dale C. Maley, from Fairbury, IL
on 1/9/2010
Customer Rating:
I make a lot of wood models that illustrate basic mechanical movements. I have been using red padauk and purpleheart wood from rockler to add color to the models. I decided to try some yellow dye and add the color yellow to my model. I mixed a very small amount of dye with hot water and filled half a baby food bottle. I stained maple with the dye solution to a yellow color. I followed this with 1st coat of polyurethane, 220 grit sand, 2nd coat of polyurethane. The yellow held its color as shown on the photo. I will continue to use the yellow dye....possible some others to add more colors to my models.
|
|
8) Submitted by
Adrian, from El Paso, TX
on 1/1/2009
Customer Rating:
This dye works very good. Used it on my custom joystick box. I just stained it darker to my liking but a very light turquoise blue looks great. I still have plenty left for more boxes. Overall great product and it will make my joystick look very original.
|
|
9) Submitted by
Kevin McGovern, from Shreveport, LA
on 11/18/2008
Customer Rating:
I was raised on Minwax products, and thought water-based stains were worthless... WRONG! The things you can do with this stuff are unimaginable--until your first project. I build custom drums, and find you can do nearly any kind of fade or finish with these stains. If you spill the powder and vacuum it before water touches it, you get clean quick! It stains the daylights out of wood and natural-fiber fabrics, yet doesn't really mess up much else. My first project was a lemon yellow snare drum, and the dye gave a bright, vivid color beyond what I've seen with anything else. Easy to use, clean up, store and great performance. Buy with confidence!
|
|
10) Submitted by
T. Thiesse from VA
on 1/19/2009
Customer Rating: 
I have used several water based dyes for projects with great success, but my old supplier went out of business. These dyes are vastly inferior to my last manufacturer. They must be mixed much stronger than the directions and they still leave an inconsistent color on the wood. I completed this current project with a diferent product.
|
|
11) Submitted by
Joe Kramer, from Elkridge, MD
on 5/1/2009
Customer Rating: 
I'd never used a wood dye before. These seemed to work well but I had a dickens of a time with bleed through. When dissolved in water, I kept getting the orginal color of the wood to bleeding through in the open grain areas. I used several coats in water but the problem persisted. I solved the problem by adding some of the dye to some polyacrylic. Worked nicely after that. Color was good and quite intense but it took about 3 coats in water and one in the polyacylic. I'd use again. I used 1/8th of a teaspoon in 1/2 cup of water or polyacrylic. I would use again if I needed but admit. I don't do a lot of wood coloring.
|
|
12) Submitted by
Mark Booher, from Slippery Rock, PA
on 8/30/2011
Customer Rating:
I used this product in Mission brown to adjust the color on an Arts & Crafts desk I was refinishing. This stain does not work well on Oak or Ash! Here is a blurb from the tech tips from Homesteads website: "On woods with very pronounced pores like oak and ash, you may notice that the pores do not accept the dye and remain unstained."
|
|
13) Submitted by
Bill Porada, from Thousand Oaks, CA
on 9/16/2008
Customer Rating:
I built this curly maple jewel box and dyed it with your "Burnt Sienna" dye. I had to mix it a bit more concentrated than what the directions recommended but I finally got the color I wanted. It turned out better than I thought. Note, I also used your barrel hinges and full mortise lockset. I like the way the project turned out.
|
Home  Finishing, Sanding, and Glues Stains and Dyes Homestead Dry Dyes 
|
(0 Items)
