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effective, inexpensive way to maintain the edge on your
sharpening chisels, plane irons, jointer knives and
other expensive tools
honed to perfection using this 12'' square x 1/4''
thick plate glass system.
The plate glass is guaranteed to be the most level
surface you can find
to lap all your tools.
The Coarse Sharpening System includes the glass
plate; a honing
guide; 25 soft plastic feet; and two each of 220,
320, 400, and 600
grit, 4-1/2'' x 11'' Klingspor silicon carbide
A™ weight paper with
a ''peel and stick'' backing.
Coarse Sharpening System for removing knicks
and correcting angles
on chisels and blades, as well as flattening
Fine Sharpening System consists of the glass
plate; honing guide;
25 soft plastic feet; and two each of 800, 1200,
1500, and 2000 grit,
4-1/2'' x 11'' Klingspor finest paper with ''peel
and stick'' application.
Sharpening System is ideal for putting that final
sharp edge on all your
wheels use this link.
Customer Reviews and Photos for:
Plate Glass Sharpening System
(17 customer reviews)
Add your review...
1) Submitted by
Bob Albers, from Mandeville, LA
The system is easy to use in operation. The set-up can be a bit tricky as the backs of the sandpaper may not be clearly marked with the grit. It all depends on exactly the paper is cut. There are several different numbers on the back. Only the grit is written along the length of the paper and may be cut-off. As some of the grits are close, it may not be easy to tell which is which.
2) Submitted by
Dan, from Napa, CA
This system is inexpensive, quick and capable of producing very sharp edges on chisels. Take your time setting up the honing guide so that it holds the chisel square and at the proper angle then you can quickly produce a sharp edge that will pare end grain easily. Be sure to flatten the back of the chisel first. Great sharpening system, like most things in woodworking setup is key. If you have never worked with truly sharp chisels, you will be amazed how enjoyable it is when your tools work as they should.
3) Submitted by
TGalster, from Wausau, WI
I have used this on my wood chistles and recently on my block plane. For the money, a great inexpensive sharpening system
4) Submitted by
Nathan B, from Windsor Mill, MD
Good product that arrived in good condition and did a great job overall. The honing guide is a little troublesome when working with smaller chisels, but still works well. You should tighten the screw on the honing guide with a screwdriver as finger strength isn't always good enough to hold the tool snugly.
5) Submitted by
Egolf, from Ashland, IL
Happy with the system and you can not beat the price. Have had only one problem and that is that my smallest chisel does not fit very well but I just did it with out the guide and it work great.
6) Submitted by
I studied the Workshop 3000 and the "Scary Sharp" method for a long time. When Rockler had this kit on sale, I took the plunge. After 3-4 tries, I got the chisel back and bevel shiny. after another 6-8 tries, I was able to get an edge sharp enough to square off dadoes in Baltic Birch plywood with minimal compression, it easily shaved off fibers left by the router with no effort. Free-hand sharpening! amazing! never thought I would have this level of skill. (I still need the blade holder when sharpening < 1/2" chisels). It helps to have a small spray bottle of distilled water handy.
7) Submitted by
James Harris, from Southern Shores, NC
I have a need to sharpen wood chisels. This was made easy by this sharpening system Determining the angle of each chisel to be sharpened is not easy. If the instructions had a firm number to measure for each degree of chisel angle to set the holding tool would be very helpful. Sticking the high quality sandpaper to glass is pure genius.
However there is a small problem with my tool that holds the chisel at angle. When I finally figured out my chisels did not use the provided examples, things got off to a good start. But after some time stroking a blade I noticed the sharpened area was not square to the tip of the chisel. The device is holding the chisel at a very slight out of square angle to the surface. It is a tolerance problem. Reversing the chisel tends to balance out the problem. But it does not fix the problem.
8) Submitted by
Tim, from Poughkeepsie, NY
I've been able to get very good results using this set. I ordered the fine set because I can get the coarser grits of silicon carbide paper at the local hardware store. My first project was bringing an old Stanley low angle block plane back to life, and I have to say I'm really pleased.
My only complaint about the set is the honing guide. It works great for plane irons, but the bevel for the chisel guide assumes your chisels are tapered almost all the way to the sole. My chisels rock back and forth when I set them in the guide, so I have to sharpen them freehand.
I appreciate the opportunity to get into the sharpening game at a reasonable price!!
9) Submitted by
Ron M, from Austin, TX
This is a great system for the money. I spent a small fortune on other items to sharpen my tools but was not happy with the results. This set up finally helped me get my tools in working order for less than half of what the other stuff cost me. Well worth the price.
10) Submitted by
Dan, from Council Bluffs , IA
Pretty good setup for the price. Very effective for occasional sharpening.
11) Submitted by
Gerald, from Fort Collins, CO
Been using this sharpening system for some time. At first I had mixed impressions, but now when combined with a basic leather strop I can get a mirror finish, and scary sharp chisels. There maybe better methods out there, but for the bang for the buck you can’t go wrong.
12) Submitted by
MikeT, from Columbia, MO
I bought the fine sharpening system and a set of course paper, and I have the fine on one side of the glass and the course on the other. I've already brought one chisel and two planes back to life, and now I just have to catch up with the rest of my chisels.
It's a fantastic system.
13) Submitted by
Walter, from Petersburg, VA
It's not my intention to offend anyone, but you people who purchase (and practice) the "Scary Sharp" system are making things unnecessarily complicated, and getting mediocre results, at best.
Hollow-ground knives, flat-ground chisels, even recurved blades: sharpen them well beyond the capabilities of "Scary Sharp" in a fraction of the time. No dangerous glass necessary; just a little faith in basic physics. Supplies:
1. A medium-grit stone (400 to 600; sized appropriately).
2. One moderately fine stone (800 to 1200 grit).
3. One 4" wide piece of melanine (of aapropriate length); be sure it has one very smooth, flat side.
4. A hunk of red stropping compound
Time to dispel some myths. For context we'll assume a bench knife (wood carving knife), recently dulled after an ambitious project. Let's bring it back to a prime wood-whackin tool without having to tape up sheets of glass or sort through sandpaper grits.
1. Grab your tri-stone (or whatever), and jump straight to the "fine" stone. Don't even think about medium or lower, unless your blade's nicked or something.
NO OIL OR WATER! That's just useless myth---one of the silliest---with ZERO foundation in science. Simply keep a brush handy to whisk off the stone's surface, if needed.
2. HOLD the stone. Don't put it down and pretend like you have super powers when it comes to estimating angle of attack.
3. Now draw the blade toward you, edge first, and here's the trick: watch for LIGHT. The goal is to angle the blade as high as you can before letting any light through. Same principal applies to a curved blade; it's just a smaller contact area where you'll be fighting the light.
Remember, for our little walk-through here, we're dealing with a blade a with a well-established bevel. I won't go into putting on new grinds.
4. Of course repeat this on the other side, and then alternate as you'd expect. But don't wait for wire edges or other nonsense. Use the fingernail test or whatever to decide that your pretty sharp (but you just wait).
5. Now load the slick side of your piece of melamine with a liberal rub-down of red compound, then do much as you did above (high an angle a possible, but no cracks of light), and this tiime push and pull the spine of the blade, instead of the edge. In the case of a chisel, you may want to continue to push the bevel, as long as it doesnt scrape up too much rouge.
6. After a mere 60 seconds or so of this final sharpening process (because it's not really stropping), you'll likely have in your hands the sharpest knife you've ever held.
Go at it some more, and see what happens. See if Scary Sharp's really worth the bucks, the hassle, the storage space, or (like so much sharpening "wisdom") is a perrenial reminder that geometry and basic physics apparently were only taught to me, clandestinely. Because the pseudo-scientific nonsense surrounding edge sharpening is quite the swamp of half-truths and rampant fantasy.
*NOTE: If your piece of melamine is getting covered with gray stuff, that's just metal from the edge. Good sign; just wipe it off with a wet paper towel, and recharge the board.
14) Submitted by
Jim O'Brien, from Garden Grove, CA
What first drew my attention was a sale on the honing guide. My old Sears 1" chisel was in need of a new edge. I tried to resharpen it, with out success, holding the correct 25 degree angle for me was impossible! I just purchased set of three chisels and after reading a few reviews was disappointing to find out my new chisels were not sharp enough.
I wanted to take the burrs off with out screwing up a nice new blade. The Plate Glass system was a great idea so I bought the kit. This is a fantastic way to put a keen edge on the tools. The old Sears Chisel was resurrected and I plan to buy hand plane in the near future and this will be valuable for blade maintenance. I'm very satisfied to have these well thought out new ideas come along.
15) Submitted by
Michael, from Mt. Shasta, CA
For the price, you can't beat it. I had problems using the honing guide with my chisels, especially the skinnier ones. You can't rely on this system to take a lot of material off. I had some old, beat-up blades that needed sharpening and I attempted to get them back in shape using only this system and that was a mistake. This system is good for sharpening edges that aren't too far gone. I am not sure whether there will be problems with the spots of adhesive that are left when you take one piece of sandpaper off to put a new one on.
16) Submitted by
Robert Albers, from Mandeville, LA
My first try with this system was with my 1/4" chisel. I found the honing guide to be awkward with this narrow blade. It turns out that one of the jaws of the honing guide is slightly convex resulting in only one point of contact on that side of the jaws. This results in right to left instability and even allows the chisel to be twisted out of the device with only moderate effort. Instead of a flat cutting edge, you can get a rounded one.
17) Submitted by
Douglass, from Watts, WA
Great system. You always have a true flat honing surface. I no longer use stones that always hollow out. It is also nice to have a larger surface area to work on. The only drawback is that you can cut the paper if you are not careful. It would be nice if the kit came with honing oil.
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