52'' to 104'' Low Profile Straight Edge Clamp System

Purchased while I was trasforming my garage into a Man Cave / Woodworkers Ultimate Workshop. Just looked at the shipper, that was 4 months ago. I spent time cutting, shaping, drilling the acrylic base to fit my DeWALT DC390 Circular Saw yesterday. Today was the first time I used this system. It is one of those V8 moments: "Dang, wish I had this a long time ago". I will only use this system to cut large sheets, window frames or doors, so the 6 1/2 blade will do the job and I did not want to mess with cords. I went with the DC390 because it is super easy to remove the motor from base so I could drill/tap so I could mount the acrylic sheet. On the inside I had to remove a lot of tap to get to the parts, Rockler did a great job of shipping this to me, they didn't take any chances. Everything inside the box was taped down and secured.

Works like a charm
(click to see full-size picture in new window)

This product does the job nicely but would be better if the clamps could be tightened from above or below. It was purchased for working in limited spaces and there is inevitably something too close to allow access on one end or the other.

The only problem I had with this product is the clamps. They are very whimpy and I had both of them bend and throw the tool out of aligment. I ended up causing damage to two sheets of plywood. When I added two of my own bar clamps this took care of the problem. I am going to try two pair of 36767 clamps and see if I can eliminate the problem of having to use additional clamps.

My last aluminum straight edge guide has lasted me a good 7 or 8 years, but it was time for something new. I knew I wanted some kind of a tracking system, as it's all too easy for the saw to move away from the guide rail, or under it when cutting thin sheets that like to bow for example. I found this system a little bit cumbersome when it came to assembling the two 50" guides. As others have mentioned, the machining on the edges is not square, and it's hard to confirm when the two parts are properly aligned. 2nd, an Allen wrench is required to tighten 4 set screws, and there is nowhere to store it. I resorted to some self adhesive Velcro, but some type of provision to store the allen wrench would be nice. This is kind of a nuisance on a job site. My old guide had a spring-loaded piece of metal that require no tools, and seem to work well enough. Something that did not require a tool would be nice. Tapered dovetail perhaps? Set screws?-not a good ideal. Enough said. The plastic handle is a nice touch to transport the straight edge, which are rather substantial nice, but they require a Phillips screwdriver to loosen, and I would have preferred to see some knurled nuts to allow this to be positioned easier. The bolts are slightly too long as well for the handle T-nuts, and mar the inside of the channel very easily. The finish seems extremely delicate, and the slightest turn of a clamp or set screw removes the finish. I can certainly see where this is going to show lots of "battle wounds" rather quickly. I think I'd just as soon see plain old aluminum without the coating or a better coating. Rockler sells a self-adhesive "weatherstripping" foam rubber, to put on the bottom you need two btw, to keep the guide from sliding. Once those are attached it increases the height of the rail, and consequently causes the Plexiglas guide to then angle down, and you will have to readjust your saw as it will no longer cut square or perpendicular to your wood. Some washers should solve the problem, but kind of an oversight to me. The weatherstripping seems to prevent the straight edge from moving, assuming downward pressure with the saw is maintained, but not so sure I would want to use it with a router without clamps. Still, it's really nice to be able to use a straight edge without clamps. The clamps as mentioned are pretty awful, no protection on the round clamping surface, and flimsy. There are a lot of clamps on the market that will work, so it's not a deal breaker for me, but for a tool that's over $100, the clamps should be more substantial. There is a little bit of slop in the mating parts to the sliding saw guide and rail, but not sure if it's going to present a problem or not. My Square was just under a 16th of an inch off in 4 feet. I consider the square to be a bonus, but don't rely on for precision work. For cutting sheet rock, it would be great. I have not tried the yellow edge for layout, again, not exactly a major selling point to me. In my 15 years of woodworking I have seen some really well designed systems, but I think the designers could have spent more time with this one. It works, but has its shortcomings. There's a lot of pieces and parts that can get lost as well, and it's finicky about assembly. Machine tolerances could be tighter. An average guide, no more, no less.

This straight edge clamp leaves a lot to be desired, especially considering the price. The good: I like the "T-Square" capability, as the drywall T-Squares you can buy are rarely dead-on square. The bad: 1. The bars are not thick enough. I would like a little taller edge for routing dados or truing a panel edge using my router with a pilot bit. 2. The clamps that slide in the T-Track on the bottom of the clamping bars are unsatisfactory. They are too small/light/weak. When you tighten them down, the bar creeps on the top of the panel, so "precision" is not a word that applies. The "foot" of the threaded shaft that applies the pressure needed to clamp the bar on top turns with the screw shaft, and that means it torques the clamp. One of my clamps is permanently twisted, so there is no hope of clamping the bar on top without mvoement. I have to guess how far it will creep when I tighten the clamp, and hope it ends up in the right place. I usually have to try it several 5 or more times before either get it in the right place, or give up all together. 3. The bars have two T-Tracks on their bottoms, one close to each side. There should be one dead center so the pressure the clamp puts on teh panel you are cutting is even across the bars. For $  I expected better quality.

The guides are rigid and do not flex. The clamps need protective caps.  The power tool guide fits tight without slop for accurate cuts when used as saw guide. You do need to make your own power tool sled to attach to the power tool guide. The guides work well for 8’ sheets if you mill the ends so they are square, and clamp the guides to a straight edge before you tighten the connection links. Now the cutting guide will be straight and when using the power tool guide, it will not catch on the seam. With these modifications this guide actually works very well as a saw guide rail system when using the included power tool sled attachment. The t- square attachment needs to be reworked to make it square. As is, it is not useful as a square. If you are not able to mill the guide ends, then the cutting guide is great for 4' cuts, but not if you want to attach the guides together.

Purchased this recently and am rating it Very Good. Not sure why other reviews mention it needs additional guides, as these are available from Rockler for a good price. 42279 12' x 12' Acrylic Base for Straight Edge System, 42173 Power Tool Guide Kit with Mounting Hardware For Straight Edge System, and 43492 Straight Edge Grip Tape.  Comments relating the the T square are valid, but I would never rely fully on any square over a distance of greater than 24 inches....just way too much chance for errors.