Customer Reviews and Photos for:
Drawer Lock Router Bit
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Average Rating:
3.8
(16 customer reviews)
$37.99
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1) Submitted by
Damon, from Bellingham, WA
on 11/7/2011
Customer Rating: 
I found the solution to routing plywood, first make a shallow pass to cut the score the first ply, then you can set full depth and rout with ease. The bit is designed for joining 3/4 fronts to 1/2 sides. I was hoping to use it for the back which is 1/2" but looks like I will have to use the old school dado.
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2) Submitted by
Thomas Lecoq, from Apple Valley, CA
on 9/14/2012
Customer Rating:
Really handy bit for making simple drawers fast. Get the setup block. Also in the left hand side bar and on the more info page there is a pdf data sheet link you can download with more detailed instructions, which I found really helpful.
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3) Submitted by
Bob, from Cleveland, OH
on 4/23/2011
Customer Rating:
This bit is very good for making drawers quickly. I did not buy the set-up jig, but had no problem setting it up. Three test cuts and I was making drawers with inset fronts was not a problem though you may want to remove the some material with a table saw first.
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4) Submitted by
Bill , from Corvallis, OR
on 4/9/2013
Customer Rating:
I have this bit and wanted to share something about using it with plywood. I have a cutting guage, something like a marking guage but with a small knife-like blade. Scoring the edge of the cross grain cuts will eliminate tearout. Much faster than taking two cuts, you heard it here first. :}
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5) Submitted by
Barry A, from Kiawah Island, SC
on 3/21/2011
Customer Rating: 
The bit is good and with the set-up block, easy to use. One caution: don't even think about using this for plywood drawer sides. At any speed, the bit blows out even 7-ply material. Use this only on sold wood drawer sides.
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6) Submitted by
Evan, from Canberra, ACT
on 5/15/2013
Customer Rating:
Draw lock bit? It's a bit of a challenge to set it up properly. I'm not going to comment on this point. What I want to comment on is that this bit makes an EXCELLENT draw slide creator. It is a bugbear to get hyper sub millimetre exact for draw joints, but if you are to use this to make a pseudo-draw slide joint it is perfect. I will still attempt to use it for its original purpose though.
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7) Submitted by
Tammy, from St Paul, MN
on 5/18/2010
Customer Rating:
This bit is great but the instructions on the online video are incorrect as is the illustration on the "more info" tab. I can see why some people are struggling with this bit which is a pity because it is a great way to make many drawers or boxes quickly. They are quick and easy to glue up as well. The video says the bit depth should be set to your stock thickness minus 1/8". If you look at the dimensioned picture of the bit and do a little thinking, it is obvious that the bit depth must ALWAYS be 3/8" to create a tongue that fits the groove. It is a coincidence that it works in the video because he is using 1/2" stock. The video also says to set the fence at stock thickness minus 1/8". This doesn't work even on 1/2" stock. For a flush edge with 1/2" stock the outermost edge of the bit needs to be 5/16" from the fence and for 3/4" stock it needs to be 7/16". I didn't buy the setup jig but setting this up should be easy with correct instructions.
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8) Submitted by
Richie Stanford, from Cascilla, MS
on 10/11/2007
Customer Rating:
This is a simple alternative to dovetaling drawers and alot faster. It really works well. The only problem is the setup, it's very slow unless you have the setup jig also. With this jig it is a snap and a very good addition to anyone's collection of router bits
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9) Submitted by
Mike Turner, from Renton, WA
on 2/27/2013
Customer Rating:
There is only one correct height setting for this bit. It doesn't matter what the material thickness is. 1. Set the bit so it sticks up approximately 3/8" above your router table. 2. Set the fence so it is slightly back from the lower cutter edge. 3. Run two boards across the bit. 4. Turn one of the boards over and fit the cuts together. If the fit is loose, you need to raise the bit slightly. If the tongues fail to reach the bottom of the grooves, lower the bit slightly. 5. Cut off the test cuts and repeat until you are satisfied with the fit. The fence settings will be different for the drawer sides and the front/back. Best for the sides is so the lower part of the bit just barely skims the ends of the side boards. Multiple passes that remove less material will reduce tearout. Save a sample setup board to use as a setup jig next time.
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10) Submitted by
Neil Brown, from Melbourne, VICTORIA
on 12/3/2009
Customer Rating:
When I first used this bit I had no idea of how to set it up,after several adjustments all went well and I made a lot of drawers on 12mm stock with a added front.(I then made set up blocks)I then needed to use 19mm stock and found that my set up blocks were no use at all and I was back to zero(in fact the way I had used it on 12mm was completely wrong)back to trial and error then sucess,I made a set of set up blocks. Using it the correct way does not require a added draw front.
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11) Submitted by
Dock, from Garland, TX
on 5/3/2010
Customer Rating: 
I worked with the bit for several hours and used the setup block. The tongue and groove did not fit properly. The groove was always to big for the tongue. After about 20 cuts I decided to go back to my dovetail jig and forget this bit as a useless cause.
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12) Submitted by
Lee Fix, from Duncan, SC
on 4/19/2008
Customer Rating:
I had made my son-in-law some bee hives in the past using finger joint joinery, but when he came to me asking if I could make him enough supers for 4 hives and he needed them pretty quick I figured I needed to find something faster than cutting all of those finger joints. Even though it took a little bit of setup time on the router table to get the correct height, this drawer lock bit fit the bill perfectly. Wish I had gone ahead and purchased the set up jig for it.
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13) Submitted by
Duane Lunday, from Mineola, TX
on 8/26/2010
Customer Rating:
I didn't find the bit all that difficult to set up but it will tear plywood drawer sides to pieces. You will have to make a scoring cut before you get to the router table. Worked pretty well after that. Will use it on future projects.
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14) Submitted by
Bill Allen, from Liberty, MO
on 5/28/2011
Customer Rating:
The bit does what it is designed to do. I noticed several comments on plywood tear out.I would recommend anyone wanting to use plywood, to watch the video at
video.wwgoa.com/search/?page=10, and watch the zero clearance router table fence video. This will STOP tear out.
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15) Submitted by
Jay, from Harrisonville, PA
on 9/5/2011
Customer Rating:
This bit is great - once you figure out how to use it! No instructions come with it and no indication that drawer fronts are 3/4 inch and sides are 1/2 inch. What's up with that? When I build a drawer box with an applied front, logic says all pieces should be the same thickness.
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16) Submitted by
Nancy Reilly, from Niskayuna, NY
on 10/18/2009
Customer Rating: 
This bit/jig is designed for 3/4 stock (at least for the front and back pieces). I used it with great difficulty on 1/2 baltic birch drawers. Even though I purchased the set up jig, I still spent a great deal of time setting this up for 1/2 material. The drawers did turn out "ok", but I think it would work much better on 3/4 stock.
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