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This plan from Wood magazine, along with Rockler's special value lift mechanism and hardware kit, can help you build a beautiful, highly functional sewing center!
- 38655 - Deluxe Sewing Center Plan: The detailed plan gives instructions on how to build a sewing cabinet featuring extension tops that fold out in two directions to double your work surface, multiple storage drawers and a special serger compartment. (Sewing Center Hardware Kit and Lift Mechanism Sold Separately)
- 38647 - Sewing Center Hardware Kit: This kit contains necessary hardware to build the Deluxe Sewing Center (wood not included). Includes brass sewing machine hinges, twin ball catches, cherry shaker knobs, table pins, and brass piano hinges.
- 33100 - Sewing Machine Lift Mechanism: Designed to lift and lower a sewing machine. Mounts to underside of table top and back of cabinet. Release and latch mechanism lock the sewing machine height at different levels which may be adjusted. Mechanism can be adjusted to fit most free arm sewing machines.
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Technical Details
- Base cabinet in the plan measures 48-1/2'' long x 18-1/2'' deep x 30'' high
- Left extension measures 35-5/16'' long x 18-1/2'' deep x 29-1/4'' high
- Right extension measures 18-1/2'' long x 13'' deep x 29-1/4'' high
- Sewing Machine Lift Mechanism (33100): Slide and table are concealed when retracted. Max height is 19-1/4". Maximum length of travel is 14-3/4". Use #7 RH wood screws for installation.
What’s in the Box?
- 38655 - Deluxe Sewing Center Plan: Includes the plan to build the Deluxe Sewing Center only (hardware, wood, and lift mechanism sold separately)
- 38647 - Deluxe Sewing Center Hardware Kit: Includes brass sewing machine hinges, twin ball catches, cherry shaker knobs, table pins, and brass piano hinges.
- 33100 - Sewing Machine Lift Mechanism: Includes lift mechanism only. Recommended accessory for the Deluxe Sewing Center.
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Customer Reviews and Photos for:
Deluxe Sewing Center Plan
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Average Rating:
4.5
(23 customer reviews)
$13.95
Add your review...
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1) Submitted by
John Dixon, from Winchester, KY
on 4/8/2011
Customer Rating: 
Built the piece shown below from these plans. The finished product followed the Sewing Center plans exactly with a couple of additions to fit the needs of the owner. The piece was placed on ball casters so it can be easily moved about and a drop leaf extension was added to the back of the unit. The drop leaf swings up on a continuous piano hinge, two folding legs under the leaf swing down and lock into place to provide support. This drop leaf extension provides a large work space behind the sewing machine that is almost 24” deep. This work space is useful when sewing large items such as quilts or curtains. With this drop leaf added, this piece has 19 sq. feet of work space when fully opened up.
The piece was finished with General Finishes oil base stain – Salem and two coats of Waterlox satin finish.
The entire piece save the door panels, drawer sides and bottoms, is constructed of solid red oak. It took almost 80 board feet of 1” rough sawn red oak to make this project. Figuring on $2 a b/f for the oak lumber, $250.00 for the hardware and another $45.00 for stain, finish and other supplies, cost of this piece comes in just under $500.00. I probably have 160 hours of time invested in the construction.
The plans offered here for this cabinet are far better than the norm. All of the measurements provided were true and extensive step-by-step instructions took the guess work out of how to proceed. I only found a few areas of concern or confusion which I will attempt to outline here:
The plans are drawn up for construction of this cabinet using hardwood veneer plywoods for the large surfaces pieces. The plans do not give you a detailed cut material list for solid wood construction. If you want to construct this piece using solid hardwoods you must modify some of the measurements shown on the plans – take some time to digest the diagram and instructions and carefully lay out these changes before you start tearing up expensive hardwood boards.
The lift mechanism now sold for this piece has changed slightly from the one that is shown in the plans. On the plans it shows this lift mechanism centered in the opening between the two pedestals, mounted on the back of the unit and flush with the lower top panel. The measurement given on the plans however 13 3/8” from the left pedestal side to the center of the lift places the lift mechanism several inches right of center within the opening area. This is confusing as the detail drawing on the plans shows this device centered in this area. I found that placing the lift mechanism right of center as far as possible is best. Placing the lift in this position best aligns the work space of the machine, the needle which is at the far left side of the sewing machine, as close as possible to the center line of the opening area where the operator will be seated.
When cutting the hole in the lower top for the sewing machine to lift through, only use the plans as a general guide. The sewing machine depicted in the plans is an older style machine with a housing that is more square than most of the modern machines. Study the machine that will be used with the piece being constructed and customize the opening and free arm replacement yoke piece to fit.
Again, these plans are far better than most and easy to follow and I would recommend them however, even though the plans are clear and concise, this is a moderately complicated piece to complete. I would not suggest this project to someone who did not already possess better than average abilities in cabinet construction.
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2) Submitted by
George David Mills, from Bedford, IN
on 10/2/2010
Customer Rating:
I just finished building this for my wife and she is very happy with it, I did alot of upgrades and used oak plywood and red oak trim, it's really nice.
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3) Submitted by
Bill Fisher, from Vancouver, WA
on 1/16/2010
Customer Rating: 
I built this cabinet for my wife shortly after the article came out in Wood Magazine. I used red oak lumber with red oak plywood in the panels for the top pieces. For the door panels, I laminated two pieces of 1/4-in. walnut plywood together back to back, then trimmed the four pieces to size. Rather than use the lift mechanism, in its place under the cabinet in the knee hole I added a narrow shelf for my wife's smaller sewing machine. I finished the cabinet with Min-Wax Golden Pecan followed by three coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. She leaves her large Elna on the top center section, stows her serger in the space to the right, and her smaller Morse on the knee hole shelf. The only thing she does not like about the cabinet is the locator pins on the tops of the doors. If she doesn't hit their socket inserts dead on, they leave small scratches on the flip-over panels. All in all, I invested about $350.00 in material and hardware.
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4) Submitted by
Curtis Vixie, from Susanville, CA
on 1/2/2010
Customer Rating:
I used walnut, walnut plywood, walnut burl veneer and rock maple for the drawer sides. I have close to $1500 in materials. I paid a bit extra to have 1/64 wood backing on the burl veneer but it made it much easier to work with. I used hide glue to put the veneer to 5/8's Baltic birch ply wood. I also ordered the manual lift that Rockler sells. It is the way to go.I added a framed-in area around the opening to put three different inserts.
I used Watco dark walnut danish oil.
(click to see full-size picture in new window)
I did box joints for the drawers.
(click to see full-size picture in new window)
This photo shows the three different inserts for the top I made:
(click to see full-size picture in new window)
And here is the finished product:
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5) Submitted by
Lydia Daigle, from Houlton, ME
on 8/15/2011
Customer Rating: 
This cabinet was made for me by a carpenter that lived 4 hrs south of me but I knew him and his workmanship from previous work he had done in our home. He made me a beautiful cabinet that is solid oak and he also added an extension on the back for me. There is a definite flaw in the pattern/directions. The sewing machine should not be centered to the opening where you sit, the needle area should be. I was really disappointed when I picked up my cabinet with my sewing machine in it and saw how it was sitting in the cabinet. I have to sit off centered with my legs touching the drawers on the left hand side and even that doesn't really put me in front of my needle. My suggestion is to either leave off the drawer and opening on the right hand side and move the lift mechanism over that way or at least make that area 1/2 the size it is so that the lift mechanism is more to the right side of the table. I wish I lived closer when the cabinet was being made so that I could have checked it out at different stages and maybe the cabinet would have gotten modified. I didn't ask the carpenter what he thought about the pattern/directions so I don't know if they were easy or hard to understand.
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6) Submitted by
Mike Hale, from Puyallup, WA
on 12/26/2009
Customer Rating:
The plans are excellent and easy to follow. I did some minor changes to accommodate flush door closure, mobile wheel base, and stronger support for a heavy serger. Overall, I stayed as true to the design plans as possible. I used three coats of Minwax Peacan polyurethane.
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7) Submitted by
Eva Galbraith, from Roseville, IL
on 5/11/2009
Customer Rating:
I received these plans several weeks ago, and although I have never done any woodworking, found them extremely easy to follow. I tweaked them a bit in that I did not want to use plywood, instead built the unit out of scrap barnboards planed down and biscuited together. I can't wait to get the finish on so I can start my first sewing project. Guys, this cabinet would cost a fortune purchased in a store. I have about $225 in this with the lift and finish. Cannot even buy a particle board unit for that. And as a seamstress, this is an incredible piece of furniture.
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23 reviews...
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