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Beautiful casket plan includes detailed drawings and step-by-step instructions.
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Complete this beautiful full size casket in a short time. The plan provides
a simple, economical and fulfilling alternative to buying a manufactured casket. Build this beautiful casket using the detailed drawings and step-by-step instructions
that come with this plan. Using our decorative hardware (sold separately), you
can personalize the design- or make your own out of wood.
This plan includes all the details you need to build the casket shown. Let
40 years of experience go to work for you in your shop.
You get:
- Full size patterns for all shaped pieces
- Detailed exploded view
- Step by step instructions
- Complete material list
- Elevation drawings
This plan is recommended for intermediate or advanced woodworkers.
Hardware required for this project:
- Lid Hinges #33575
- 2 pair required
- Lid Latches #33562
(Left Hand) or #33588
(Right Hand) - 4 are required
- Lid Support #33601
- 2 each required
- Mattress Spring and mounting hardware #33627
- 1 required
- Metallic Corners #33692
Antique Nickel Stamped set or #33731
Antique Gold Stamped set - 1 set required
- Handle Brackets #33666
Antique Nickel or #33705
Antique Gold - Sold in pairs -8 pair are required
- Handle Ends #33679
Antique Nickel or #33718 Antique Gold - Sold
in pairs -4 pair are required
- Memorial Tube (optional) #33614
Please note: The size of Casket Bed Frame and Hardware package prohibits shipment
through the postal system. It must be shipped by another carrier (i.e. UPS). Due to the size of this package, there will be an additional shipping charge will be added to the order for Oversized Packages.
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Customer Reviews and Photos for:
Wood Casket Plan
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Average Rating:
(4.7)
(5 customer reviews)
Add your review...
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1) Submitted by
Rick Haskell, from Sandy, UT
on 3/26/2008
Customer Rating: 
I recently built this casket for a close family member as she passed away. I'm not a master woodworker, but the project turned out well and the family appreciated this more than one might suppose. I used solid cherry and milled the moldings just as the plan called for. Rather than use a plywood insert inside of the top set of moldings I milled the top out of solid cherry - I think it gave it a nicer look and honestly, it was easier than trying to mill the insert to fit perfectly into the frame. I spent between 40 - 50 hours on this and my wife, who did the lining, spent another 10 hours. I'd recommend this to anyone who thinks they have the skills and tools - even if it stretches you. It was a great experience and I think we turned out a handsome casket.
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2) Submitted by
Curtis Vixie, from Susanville, CA
on 11/18/2007
Customer Rating: 
I made this from a Western Red Cedar tree from the back yard of the friend who will be using it in a few months. Working the lumber from a raw tree added a fair amount of time. I hve about 80 hours in it. The plans from Rockler are wonderfull. The adjustable mattress frame was a nice addition. If I made another one I would make it 2-3 inches wider. This could be done very easy still using the plans as they are. I used Danish oil, Dark Walnet. Then a satin polyurethane spray.
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3) Submitted by
Curtis Vixie, from Susanville, CA
on 11/18/2007
Customer Rating:
I still used 3/4 plywood as the plan called for but then veneered it with 1/4 inch cedar on the sides, also from the same tree. I bought 10 yards of material to line it and could have used a couple more but the store was out. Instead of foam I used quilt batting in verious layers depending on location.
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4) Submitted by
Jesse Horn
on 6/4/2010
Haven't started on casket yet. Plans are not as detailed as I would have liked. Does not give measurements for lid pieces so you have to do a some calculating and hope for the best. For example parts list says you need 102 inches of a certain size wood, but plans do not give you the measurements of strips. If plans had been printed on paper a couple of inches bigger the drawings could have been used for templates. I was told by customer service that handle hardware sticks out 2 inches from side (doesn't tell that in plans) which gives me 3/8 inch clearance for casket to fit in grave liner. Just feel that plans could be a little more detailed with more measurements, especially considering the close fit in liner. Funeral director warned me to check measurements as one person who built his casket had to remove handles to get it to fit in grave liner. Suggest anyone attempting this top be sure and check with funeral director or grave yard to get exact measurements of liners or you may have a problem.
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5) Submitted by
Dan Fischbach
on 8/25/2008
I recently completed a casket in walnut using subject plans. I am very pleased with the results, but believe a few comments and suggestions might save future builders a lot of angst. Despite your assessment, I believe this project might be a bit advanced for a true "novice". Especially since the plans frequently referred to "Follow manufacturer's instructions" which in some instances were less than adequate for a beginner.
1. Gluing the crown was very taxing and required two people. Biscuits in the corners helped. I also used two quick grip clamps on each side between the bottum trim and top of the lid core box molding to set the position of the crown molding lower edge relative to the core box molding edge.
2. It was impossible to find a six foot lathe to turn walnut handles. A previous builder warned me that turning the long handles in two pieces was a nightmare when it came to joining the pieces. My solution was to cut the handles to octagonal shape ( 1 3/8" flat to flat worked perfectly). The finished look is classic.
3. The plans as shown result in the sides and lower trim extending 1/4" below the bottom. This could present a problem when loading the casket into a hearse with standard rollers, as it could damage the edges of the trim. My solution was to glue a piece of inexpensive 1/4" particle board to the bottum of the casket. Had I anticipated the problem, I would have placed the dado for the bottom up the same distance as the thickness of the bottom, and then could have cut the "bottom backer" from the same plywood as the bottom itself. I don't think the added weight was significant.
4. Due to minor variations in the lid frames, I found it easier to build up the lid end caps out of separate pieces of hardwood cut to fit the individual frames. I also back cut the end of the plywood top panel at 45 degrees and glued a piece of walnut to it. This was easier than messing with veneer and looks great.
5. For economy, I cut the lid top panels from the same piece of (expensive) 3/4" walnut veneer plywood as the sides and ends. The slight increase in weight couldn't possibly justify buying a sheet of
1/2" walnut plywood. I also recessed the top panels about 1/8" which was much easier than getting the top panels perfectly flush with the top frame, and really looks good.
6. I will be returning the lid support brackets, as they looked cheap and a previous builder told me they were tedious to install. My solutions was two 10" pieces of decorative chain attached with screws and washers to the inside of the end panel and the lid core box molding. When the lid is opened to 90 degrees, there is sufficient over-center weight for good stability. The screws and washers will be covered by the interior linings.
This has been a most rewarding project.
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