Our High Pressure Laminate Router Tables now come standard with 3/8'' thick phenolic router plates, offering excellent stability and a naturally low-friction surface. The tables are 1-1/8'' thick MDF, strong enough to support even the largest routers, and are surfaced with white HPL for good visibility and durability. A combination miter track and universal accessory T-track runs the length of the table for mounting featherboards, stops and jigs. The included fence also has universal T-tracks, as well as an adjustable bit guard. Choose from four pre-drilled plates for common router bases, or two non-drilled plates. Either way, you'll get a perfect fit with far fewer catch points than typical ''Swiss Cheese'' universal plates.
- 3/8'' thick phenolic router plate offers good flatness, rigidity and low-friction sliding
- 8-point plate leveling system with two locking points
- 24'' x 32'' table for over five square feet of surface area
- Dual track in table combines standard miter track with universal accessory track, which accepts 5/16'' T-bolts or 1/4'' hex bolts for custom made jigs and featherboards
- Extruded aluminum fence backer provides a stiff, straight reference surface when routing
- Fence backer features top-mounted universal T-track that accepts 5/16'' T-bolts, 1/4'' T-bolts, and 1/4'' hex bolts
- Opening in fence is easily adjustable to accommodate large router bits
- Ergonomic T-knobs for easy fence adjustment
- Includes bit safety guard for safe routing
- To add a dust port and featherboards to this package see e.g. 55629, which includes our 4-Piece Router Table Accessory Kit
- 57188 - Rockler High Pressure Laminate Router Table, Fence and Non-Drilled Phenolic Plate with 3-1/4'' Opening (for Standard Inserts)
- 51720 - Rockler High Pressure Laminate Router Table, Fence and Non-Drilled Phenolic Plate with 3-11/16'' Opening (for Large Inserts)
To choose a pre-drilled plate, find your router below. If it's not listed, choose from two non-drilled plates—one with a 4'' insert ring, and the other a 4-3/8'' insert ring—and drill the plate to fit your router.
- Plate A routers: Makita 1100; Milwaukee 5615-5624; DeWalt 616-618; Bosch MRC23 Series, 1617-1618; Ridgid 2930 Combo Kit; Hitachi M12VC (fixed and kit); Porter-Cable 690, 890, 7529, 97529 and 8529. Note: Current models of the Porter-Cable 892 require at least two screws to be 1/2" long versus 5/8".
- Plate B routers: DeWalt DW621 and DW621K; Craftsman Standard; Freud FT 1700E and 1702VCEK
- Plate C routers: Porter-Cable 7518, 7519, 7538 and 7539; Milwaukee 5625-20; Triton TRA001 and MOF001
- Plate D routers: Bosch 1619-1619EV; Freud FT2000; DeWalt 625
- Top Dimensions: 24'' x 32'' x 1-1/8''
- Plate Dimensions: 8-1/4'' x 11-3/4'' x 3/8''
- Insert Ring I.D. (All): 1-1/2''
- Insert Ring O.D. (Plates A and B): 4''
- Insert Ring O.D. (Plates C and D): 4-3/8''
- Table Material: MDF and HPL
- Plate Material: Solid Phenolic
- Insert Ring Material: Plastic
1 Review(s)View All
Good, but Crafstman router owners pay attentionPosted December 31, 2014
Now, regarding the Craftsman router comment. I selected a Group B plate, hoping that 'Craftsman standard' would apply to my Crafstman 2HP router, purchased about a year ago. I think it's model #02768. The screws to mount the base fit fine, but I had to remove the handles from the fixed base so that the router would fit. Not a big deal. I have both a fixed base and a plunge base. I'm hoping to leave the fixed base in the table and the plunge base for stand alone routing. By releasing the course height adjustment, it's easy to move the router from the table to the plunge base.
My kit also came with a handle that's intended to be inserted through a table into the fine adjustment on the base. That's where my router diverges from the 'Craftsman standard'. I had to drill a hole for that. It works great, though.
After seeing the the multiple holes in the plate for other routers, and drilling my own for the through-table height adjust, I would consider going with the non-drilled plate. That way you have a smoother plate. But maybe you'd rather drill one hole instead of 4? I think it depends on how confident you are about getting the base centered after drilling the 3 mounting holes.
Oh, and I'm also not sure about the 3 screws that mount the center insert to the plate. They're small, and just screw into pilot holes in the plate. If you change inserts a lot, these might wear out.
Overall, I'm very happy with this table setup. A lot more convenient than my old, homemade router table.