Overview
The late Sam Maloof, one of America's most accomplished woodworkers, used these same finishes on pieces placed in museums and the White House. Sold in pint- and quart-size cans.
"One of the most important aspects of finishes, I believe, is that they invite me to touch, to caress and to take pleasure in the wood surface." Sam Maloof.
Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish is a custom blend of polyurethane varnish and natural oils developed by Sam Maloof to beautifully finish his finest pieces. Ideal for use on furniture, cabinets and millwork. Enlivens wood grain and adds warmth to its color. Gives your project the look of a hand-rubbed satin finish in half the time it takes using pumice and rottenstone. Consider using Sam Maloof's Oil/Wax for the final coat to complete the look.
Sam Maloof Oil/Wax Finish is a blend of oils and waxes used as a final coat over Sam Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish to create a soft, hand-rubbed appearance while enlivening the wood's character. This topcoat is recommended for fine pieces that won't be exposed to heat or moisture. Apply with a cloth.
For more information on Sam Maloof, see Jeremy Adamson's book, The Furniture of Sam Maloof, the first thorough documentary of Maloof's life and work.
Questions and Answers
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Browse 26 questions
and 106 answers
Why did you choose this?
Rockler Store
Have used it for years. Excellent product.
Rita N
on Sep 15, 2017
I looked up on youtube best wood finishes and found Sam Maloof's wood Finish to be the best for the results i was looking for!
I would also like to say thank you to my beautiful girlfriend Renee for putting up with me and buying my exotic Macassar Ebony book matched lumber to build my speakers :O I love you baby! Ian
I would also like to say thank you to my beautiful girlfriend Renee for putting up with me and buying my exotic Macassar Ebony book matched lumber to build my speakers :O I love you baby! Ian
Ian B. C
on Sep 11, 2017
Have used it for years. Excellent product.
Rita N
on Sep 15, 2017
I've used it exclusively for years. No need to try anything else.
ARLIN C
on Sep 14, 2017
I have a 3-year-old Cherry surface finished with the Poly/Oil and (I think??) the Oil/Wax. I love the finish. It has of course darkened over time. There are a couple scuffs, not scratches, that I would like to repair prior to entering the piece in a show in one month. I tried applying a bit of the Poly/Oil, but not much difference. I could sand with a high grit and reapply the Poly/Oil, but I'm afraid of exposing lighter wood. Any recommendations for repair assuming I probably have the Oil/Wax finish coat?
Is this finish ok to use on a mantel? The fireplace is a gas with fake logs.
BEST ANSWER: There is nothing like it that you can buy in ca.it gives you a true hand rubbed finish and good amount of time to work with theres a reason for the price andits worth it
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- ROB J on Jan 6, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 29, 2015
Do you still sand to 400 grit even with walnut? I've sanded to 325 and it looks like I have a finish on it. I heard to stop at 150 and then apply a finish because once the pores are closed up, it won't take a finish as well....what do recommend to do with walnut before using Sam Maloof?
BEST ANSWER: Maloof believed in finishing his wood first then sealing with finish. You can read his books about it. His favourite wood to work in was walnut. If you follow his method and sand until the wood is very smooth, then apply his finish, you get a very nice finished product. Walnut still has an open grain, yet it is still very polished and smooth. If you want a lacquered finish, you should use something else. This is not a grain filler, just more of a preservative and a polish. My family owns some Maloof pieces and this finish if you follow the protocol will give you a Maloof style finish.
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- Gregory H on Mar 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
How does the Sam Malouf Poly/Oil Finish perform on table tops?
BEST ANSWER: I've been using this finish since I took a seminar from Maloof in the early 90s. It's a beautiful finish that he used on everything, but in my experience it's not a durable, wood protection finish like a pure polyurethane would be. Like most oil type finishes, it doesn't build up a surface film for protection. That being said, if you have a table that you're willing to baby a little bit, it's still a beautiful finish and my favorite way to go. The best part is that it's very easy to renew the finish by just wiping on another coat if it starts to get dull or is exposed to too much heat or liquids, etc.
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- Gary A on Oct 1, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
Can poly/oil be applied over stained wood?
BEST ANSWER: Yes. Make sure your stained wood has dried for 24 hours. Sand with 400 grain sand paper very lightly. Wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Apply the poly/oil lightly and wipe off with a clean cotten cloth at least two times so only a thin coat remains on the wod. Let dry 24 hours and then reapply three more times.
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- John H on May 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 23, 2015
What do you use to wet sand the oil wax or the poly oil?
BEST ANSWER: I used Abralon pads on a random orbital sander. They are often used for polishing bowling balls. For the poly oil, I used sanded all the to 500 grit for the first coat and 1000 grit for the second coat. Works great on black walnut as it fills in the pores. It's amazingly smooth. I left the bottom of the coffee table rough and tell people to first feel the bottom and then feel the top, they can't believe it. You can also look into 3M polishing paper.
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- Al W on Feb 14, 2016
How can I darken Sam Maloof Oil/Poly Finish? I tested on a cherry veneer sample sanded to 320 and it was perfect medium/dark cherry color. However, on my real cabinet, sanded to 400, it came out too light - light cherry. How can I darken my cabinet that will be compatible with the 2 coats of Sam Maloof Finish that's already on.
Thanks
Thanks
BEST ANSWER: I have not done this, but you could try (on a small sample) a couple of drops of concentrated dye, like Trans Tint. If you do this on your cabinet, be sure to have plenty of colored finish available as you will have problems mixing the same color with another batch.
What I do to darken a cherry project is give it a suntan - put it in direct sun light for a few days to a few weeks, rotating the item to get all sides. It will darken quite a bit doing this, and cherry will darken more over time. I would definitely try giving it a sun tan before using any dye.
As to why your cabinet is lighter, first, cherry boards vary a lot in color. Perhaps the basic color of the cherry wood you used was lighter than your sample ? And you may have sanded too much. I have gone to sanding to just up to 180 grit, then wet sand between coats with 600 grit to get a smooth surface.
What I do to darken a cherry project is give it a suntan - put it in direct sun light for a few days to a few weeks, rotating the item to get all sides. It will darken quite a bit doing this, and cherry will darken more over time. I would definitely try giving it a sun tan before using any dye.
As to why your cabinet is lighter, first, cherry boards vary a lot in color. Perhaps the basic color of the cherry wood you used was lighter than your sample ? And you may have sanded too much. I have gone to sanding to just up to 180 grit, then wet sand between coats with 600 grit to get a smooth surface.
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- Phil C on May 8, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
Is this product food safe?
BEST ANSWER: This is definitely not a food safe finish - it's polyurethane and linseed oils primarily. Has volatile compounds in it (the drying agents in the oils). For food safe, you want something like a mineral oil finish.
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- Gary A on Apr 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
Any suggestions if the Sam Maloof finish can be used for Sapele (an exotic hardwood from Africa)? There seems to be different bits of advice in the instructions on the can (do not use on Ebony, Zirocote or Rosewood) and in the Q&A section here from successes with exotic hardwoods and someone indicating that Sam did not favor this for exotic hardwoods. Any experiences or thoughts from others would be appreciated.
BEST ANSWER: The instructions on the can are good advise for not applying to those those particular woods, Bocote as well. It tends to be muted and cloudy. But on Sapele it always comes out beautiful. My only suggestion would be to watch for bleed back. Come back in 15 mins or so and check your work piece. Hope this helps and good luck on your project.
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- SHEM M on Sep 6, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
How can I use your stain and finish on maple?
BEST ANSWER: The mallof oil works great on maple over any type stain that has dried thoroughly / many coats over many days is my recommendation
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- mandoiac on Feb 1, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 14, 2015
I'm currently building a Koa Wood coffee table and would love to know Sam Maloff poly/oil be a good finish?? I'm a average woodworker and would love your advice on best way to finish.. Best, Sean
BEST ANSWER: Great job on choosing a beautiful wood for your project! And yes, Sam Maloff is an excellent oil finish for almost any wood. We have been using it in our custom wood shop for over five years and have had great success with it.
We have found sanding to 400 or above and ragging it before finish helps with sheen and not needing any more then 4-5 thin coats for a nice semigloss sheen. Be sure to use only 100% cotton clean rags and buff out every coat and alow to dry overnight before applying another coat.
Best of luck.
-Shem
We have found sanding to 400 or above and ragging it before finish helps with sheen and not needing any more then 4-5 thin coats for a nice semigloss sheen. Be sure to use only 100% cotton clean rags and buff out every coat and alow to dry overnight before applying another coat.
Best of luck.
-Shem
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- SHEM M on Aug 23, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 9, 2015
What if I applied a coat of shellac over ebony and then applied the poly/oil (shellac being considered the universal fix for compatibility issues)?
BEST ANSWER: I'm sure that would work, but you've lost the one thing that makes this finish work which is it's "absorption" in the pores of the wood to help build up the finish. Putting this over shellac would be like putting a very diluted coat of poly on top of your shellac. When you wipe off excess, you're wiping off most of your product and not getting much build. Why not just keep applying shellac? Or putting on a true poly over the shellac (which I do very often)?
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- Gary A on Mar 22, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
Should this product be used for a walnut island top? Not planning on cutting on the top but will be placing glasses, etc. on it.
BEST ANSWER: It should be OK. I used it for a table top (natural edge butterfly key table), but there is glass over the top. I did make a small table, and have set a few beer glasses on it with no problem. It does provide a beautiful finish.
The "Anna" is my daughter who is the recipient of the table, and I sent her a can of the poly/oil for touch up.
Bruce Van Zee
The "Anna" is my daughter who is the recipient of the table, and I sent her a can of the poly/oil for touch up.
Bruce Van Zee
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- Anna R on Oct 29, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
Can this finish be applied over danish oil?
BEST ANSWER: The Sam Maloof poly oil finish is absorbed in the wood and the exceed is wiped off 5 minutes after thoroughly rubbing on the finish. If the Danish oil will allow it to absorb, I would say it is okay. I have used the Sam Maloof finish for 15 years and love it!
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- Larry S on May 25, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
After finishing a walnut box with Maloof's products and letting it dry completely, I covered it with bubblewrap for shipping. It remained in the wrap for several months and now the finish is tacky. Is there anything I can do short of sanding and starting over?
BEST ANSWER: I recently had a mover tell me not to wrap wooden furniture in plastic wrap. The plastic makes the furniture sweat and holds in moisture. My recommendation would be to wipe it down with mineral spirits. Then let it dry overnight and then apply another coat of the finish.
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- Larry S on Oct 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
What is best product to dust/clean wood after it is finished?
BEST ANSWER: I simply use a micro fiber towel
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- ABRAHAM F on Apr 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 1, 2015
Would this be good for a guitar finish it has a stripe of purple hart down the center ?
BEST ANSWER: Jeff, just so your aware Purple Heart will eventually turn brownEnter an answer to this question.
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- Steve K on Feb 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
Can you use Sam Maloof poly/oil finish on maple stairs?
BEST ANSWER: It wouldn't be my first choice -- I'd prefer something more durable like Waterlox Marine or a wipe-on polyurethane. It's easier to repair, especially on stairs that will get a lot of wear. It would be fine for handrails or balustrades. Hope this helps -- Good luck.
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- Micheal F on Jan 26, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 24, 2015
Are Sam Maloof's oil and/varnish and oil/wax appropriate to use on teak cabinetry (kitchen and utility) and teak paneling and cabinetry (dining, living rooms)?
BEST ANSWER: Use them all the time on prefinished surfaces they both work great where you run in to problems is if a another product was used on surface as protectant murphy oil soap then you have to use a wax wash but even the poly acts different then with sams products just wipe on polys not t b at easy
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- ROB J on Jan 6, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 29, 2015
Anyone try to get stains out of your clothing?
BEST ANSWER: try bleach on white cloths and oxyclean on dark
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- ABRAHAM F on Jun 22, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 1, 2015
Would you use this to finish interior alder door? My plan is 1.Minwax Conditioner 2. Minwax Oil stain 3. Lacquer 4. General Finishes Glaze. 5. Sam Maloof Poly/Oil
OR oil based polyurethane.
Is everything ok with my plan?
OR oil based polyurethane.
Is everything ok with my plan?
BEST ANSWER: I don't think you want to put Sam Maloof Poly/Oil over lacquer and glaze. I used it on bare hardwood for a natural finish.
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- PATRICK W on Aug 15, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 24, 2015
Would this finish work OK on Oak kitchen cabinets?
BEST ANSWER: I like the product and would use it on the cabinets.....I would try a sample first to make sure it suits your taste... Great product
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- Frankie D on Jun 25, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 7, 2015
I am considering using this product on natural cherry bathroom cabinets. What are your thoughts and recommendations?
BEST ANSWER: I wouldnt use it for an area with alot of moister.
Its more of an oils for things like a nice table or chair.
Its more of an oils for things like a nice table or chair.
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- Stephen W on Mar 2, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 9, 2015
I'm not a woodworker, but my friend who is suggested this. I want to finish my dining room table, its raw wood now (looks like oak??)... but is this good for something that will get high use (nightly dinners)? I see in the description that the top coat is not for heat or moisture. I was just thinking about the occasional sweaty water cup or warm dinner plate. I have three kids, who aren't alwasy compliant with coasters. I just want to protect the wood as it appears to be getting ruined, being untreated. I don't want shiny, I just want it to look how it is, with protection.
Here is what I am dealing with: fileswithscott(dot)com/table.jpg
Thanks in advance for any input.
Here is what I am dealing with: fileswithscott(dot)com/table.jpg
Thanks in advance for any input.
BEST ANSWER: If you finish with a few coats, followed with a good coat of wax, you should be okay. I built a cherry dining table 20 years ago, and it is fine. When yo do get a ring or blemish, you can rob it out with fine steel wool and wax. The disadvantage of a hard finish is that a mar is much harder to repair than good oil finish. I do all my furniture projects with an oil finish.
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- Anna R on Feb 9, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
I'm planning to fill checks and voids on a large claro walnut slab with system 3 epoxy. how will that look with this finish on the slab? I'm concerned the epoxy will be glossier than the surrounding wood and will really stand out, but i like the look of this finish.
BEST ANSWER: I've used Maloof finish for years now and over a lot of epoxy fill crakes and incursions and it always come out great. The epoxy is noticeable, but not because of a different sheen. It's just darker since its epoxy, but all walnut this will be minimal. Good luck! Love Claro walnut.
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- SHEM M on May 26, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
Reviews
4.9 / 5.0
62 Reviews
Followed the directions in their entirety...
Followed the directions in their entirety (both poly/oil and oil/wax), and I couldn't be happier with the results. For very little effort, this is an amazingly beautiful finish. Used on natural walnut.
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May 13, 2010
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There is little I can add...
There is little I can add to the roster of favorable reviews. However, this is an expensive product, and I have learned how to gain full benefit while being stingy, that is - economical. My first two or three coats of finish will be Watco, which fills the pores at limited expense. It lacks sheen however, which two coats of Maloof poly/oil will provide. I repeat the counsel of others who advocate careful wiping.
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May 17, 2010
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For decades I used the classic...
For decades I used the classic shop-made 3-part finish: Equal parts of alkyd resin varnish, boiled linseed oil and turpentine. I've tried other commercial preparations, but always went back to the 3-part finish. This time, having just visited the Maloof Foundation home in Southern California, I decided to try these two companion products. I didn't quite follow the recommendation on the can for applying the oil finish. I applied four coats successively with 320, 400 and finally 600 grit wet/dry abrasive paper. Other than that, I followed the directions.The results met my high expectations as far as appearance goes. I have not yet used it for high-wear applications like chairs or dining tables so can't comment on durability for those cases. The product was easy to apply and more importantly easy to wipe off. It's easier to deal with than mixing up your own, but it is expensive stuff. On the other hand, a small amount goes quite a long way.These two finishes are in my opinion superior to the older commercial preparations. I'm a convert, I'll be using this from now on.
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November 22, 2010
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These are my favorite finishes -...
These are my favorite finishes - easy to apply and results are stunning when done. Note: make sure you wipe the piece off thoroughly after several minutes of application and working the finish to get an even-looking coat Also, the oil/wax finish may take a long time to dry especially in warm/humid weather. Some of my work took a couple of months to lose the stickiness of the oil/wax finish. I sometimes just use 5-6 coats of the poly/oil (which dries thoroughly overnight), followed by carnuba wax or other paste wax to avoid stickiness in a high-use wood item.
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January 28, 2010
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Great finish!
This is the first time I have used this finish. It was recommended to me by a friend who makes these chairs for a living. He also noted that I should follow the directions. I did and the finish came out flawless. I will recommend this to everyone I know.
Added Jun 11, 2016
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Great Finish
I have built a Sam Maloof inspired rocking chair. I purchased this oil/wax and the oil/poly to duplicate Sam's finish. They both are a great finish. Easy to apply and touch up. Brings out the natural beauty and grain in walnut.
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March 12, 2015
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Outstanding finish
Used this per the instructions on a mahogany and teak gong stand I built. Sealed the teak first with shellac b/c Rocklers advised against using the Maloof oil directly on exotic woods as it takes a long time to dry b/c of the resins in the wood. The whole thing is gorgeous.
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If you follow the directions that...
If you follow the directions that say to wipe off the finish at least twice after applying it, you cannot make a mistake with this productif you leave too much it can make sticky spot that never quite dries. I refinished all my kitchen cabinets with this stuff and the finish looks perfect. No streaks, no brush marks, no blotches. The result looks truly professional and has stood up to some rather harsh treatment. I'll never buy another brand, because there is no skill needed to apply it and the results are great every time.
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February 19, 2011
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As a professional luthier of 32...
As a professional luthier of 32 years, I had sought an alternative to environmentally detrimental finishes that required spraying and/or laborious wet sanding and multiple coat build up. Nothing I had tried could be applied evenly or had acceptable wear resistance. Then I found the Maloof Poly/Oil, and it has not only made my work easier, but also provided a superior finish for my instruments. There is nothing else like it on the market, and it outperforms any other poly finish by miles.
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September 10, 2012
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This is the very best by far.
I think the title says it all. This and the wax/oil are the only ones I use now. So very easy to apply and they make my stuff just shine!!!
Been wood working 45+ years, take my advice and try these, you won't go back.
Been wood working 45+ years, take my advice and try these, you won't go back.
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