Overview
The late Sam Maloof, one of America's most accomplished woodworkers, used these same finishes on pieces placed in museums and the White House. Sold in pint- and quart-size cans.
"One of the most important aspects of finishes, I believe, is that they invite me to touch, to caress and to take pleasure in the wood surface." Sam Maloof.
Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish is a custom blend of polyurethane varnish and natural oils developed by Sam Maloof to beautifully finish his finest pieces. Ideal for use on furniture, cabinets and millwork. Enlivens wood grain and adds warmth to its color. Gives your project the look of a hand-rubbed satin finish in half the time it takes using pumice and rottenstone. Consider using Sam Maloof's Oil/Wax for the final coat to complete the look.
Sam Maloof Oil/Wax Finish is a blend of oils and waxes used as a final coat over Sam Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish to create a soft, hand-rubbed appearance while enlivening the wood's character. This topcoat is recommended for fine pieces that won't be exposed to heat or moisture. Apply with a cloth.
For more information on Sam Maloof, see Jeremy Adamson's book, The Furniture of Sam Maloof, the first thorough documentary of Maloof's life and work.
Questions and Answers
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Browse 33 questions
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I have a 3-year-old Cherry surface finished with the Poly/Oil and (I think??) the Oil/Wax. I love the finish. It has of course darkened over time. There are a couple scuffs, not scratches, that I would like to repair prior to entering the piece in a show in one month. I tried applying a bit of the Poly/Oil, but not much difference. I could sand with a high grit and reapply the Poly/Oil, but I'm afraid of exposing lighter wood. Any recommendations for repair assuming I probably have the Oil/Wax finish coat?
Is this finish ok to use on a mantel? The fireplace is a gas with fake logs.
BEST ANSWER: There is nothing like it that you can buy in ca.it gives you a true hand rubbed finish and good amount of time to work with theres a reason for the price andits worth it
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- ROB J on Jan 6, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 29, 2015
How does the Sam Malouf Poly/Oil Finish perform on table tops?
BEST ANSWER: I've been using this finish since I took a seminar from Maloof in the early 90s. It's a beautiful finish that he used on everything, but in my experience it's not a durable, wood protection finish like a pure polyurethane would be. Like most oil type finishes, it doesn't build up a surface film for protection. That being said, if you have a table that you're willing to baby a little bit, it's still a beautiful finish and my favorite way to go. The best part is that it's very easy to renew the finish by just wiping on another coat if it starts to get dull or is exposed to too much heat or liquids, etc.
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- Gary A on Oct 1, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
Do you still sand to 400 grit even with walnut? I've sanded to 325 and it looks like I have a finish on it. I heard to stop at 150 and then apply a finish because once the pores are closed up, it won't take a finish as well....what do recommend to do with walnut before using Sam Maloof?
BEST ANSWER: Maloof believed in finishing his wood first then sealing with finish. You can read his books about it. His favourite wood to work in was walnut. If you follow his method and sand until the wood is very smooth, then apply his finish, you get a very nice finished product. Walnut still has an open grain, yet it is still very polished and smooth. If you want a lacquered finish, you should use something else. This is not a grain filler, just more of a preservative and a polish. My family owns some Maloof pieces and this finish if you follow the protocol will give you a Maloof style finish.
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- Gregory H on Mar 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
Can poly/oil be applied over stained wood?
BEST ANSWER: Yes. Make sure your stained wood has dried for 24 hours. Sand with 400 grain sand paper very lightly. Wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Apply the poly/oil lightly and wipe off with a clean cotten cloth at least two times so only a thin coat remains on the wod. Let dry 24 hours and then reapply three more times.
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- John H on May 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 23, 2015
What do you use to wet sand the oil wax or the poly oil?
BEST ANSWER: I used Abralon pads on a random orbital sander. They are often used for polishing bowling balls. For the poly oil, I used sanded all the to 500 grit for the first coat and 1000 grit for the second coat. Works great on black walnut as it fills in the pores. It's amazingly smooth. I left the bottom of the coffee table rough and tell people to first feel the bottom and then feel the top, they can't believe it. You can also look into 3M polishing paper.
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- Al W on Feb 14, 2016
How can I darken Sam Maloof Oil/Poly Finish? I tested on a cherry veneer sample sanded to 320 and it was perfect medium/dark cherry color. However, on my real cabinet, sanded to 400, it came out too light - light cherry. How can I darken my cabinet that will be compatible with the 2 coats of Sam Maloof Finish that's already on.
Thanks
Thanks
BEST ANSWER: I have not done this, but you could try (on a small sample) a couple of drops of concentrated dye, like Trans Tint. If you do this on your cabinet, be sure to have plenty of colored finish available as you will have problems mixing the same color with another batch.
What I do to darken a cherry project is give it a suntan - put it in direct sun light for a few days to a few weeks, rotating the item to get all sides. It will darken quite a bit doing this, and cherry will darken more over time. I would definitely try giving it a sun tan before using any dye.
As to why your cabinet is lighter, first, cherry boards vary a lot in color. Perhaps the basic color of the cherry wood you used was lighter than your sample ? And you may have sanded too much. I have gone to sanding to just up to 180 grit, then wet sand between coats with 600 grit to get a smooth surface.
What I do to darken a cherry project is give it a suntan - put it in direct sun light for a few days to a few weeks, rotating the item to get all sides. It will darken quite a bit doing this, and cherry will darken more over time. I would definitely try giving it a sun tan before using any dye.
As to why your cabinet is lighter, first, cherry boards vary a lot in color. Perhaps the basic color of the cherry wood you used was lighter than your sample ? And you may have sanded too much. I have gone to sanding to just up to 180 grit, then wet sand between coats with 600 grit to get a smooth surface.
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- Phil C on May 8, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
What if I applied a coat of shellac over ebony and then applied the poly/oil (shellac being considered the universal fix for compatibility issues)?
BEST ANSWER: I'm sure that would work, but you've lost the one thing that makes this finish work which is it's "absorption" in the pores of the wood to help build up the finish. Putting this over shellac would be like putting a very diluted coat of poly on top of your shellac. When you wipe off excess, you're wiping off most of your product and not getting much build. Why not just keep applying shellac? Or putting on a true poly over the shellac (which I do very often)?
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- Gary A on Mar 22, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
Is this product food safe?
BEST ANSWER: This is definitely not a food safe finish - it's polyurethane and linseed oils primarily. Has volatile compounds in it (the drying agents in the oils). For food safe, you want something like a mineral oil finish.
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- Gary A on Apr 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
Any suggestions if the Sam Maloof finish can be used for Sapele (an exotic hardwood from Africa)? There seems to be different bits of advice in the instructions on the can (do not use on Ebony, Zirocote or Rosewood) and in the Q&A section here from successes with exotic hardwoods and someone indicating that Sam did not favor this for exotic hardwoods. Any experiences or thoughts from others would be appreciated.
BEST ANSWER: The instructions on the can are good advise for not applying to those those particular woods, Bocote as well. It tends to be muted and cloudy. But on Sapele it always comes out beautiful. My only suggestion would be to watch for bleed back. Come back in 15 mins or so and check your work piece. Hope this helps and good luck on your project.
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- SHEM M on Sep 6, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
How can I use your stain and finish on maple?
BEST ANSWER: The mallof oil works great on maple over any type stain that has dried thoroughly / many coats over many days is my recommendation
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- mandoiac on Feb 1, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 14, 2015
I'm currently building a Koa Wood coffee table and would love to know Sam Maloff poly/oil be a good finish?? I'm a average woodworker and would love your advice on best way to finish.. Best, Sean
BEST ANSWER: Great job on choosing a beautiful wood for your project! And yes, Sam Maloff is an excellent oil finish for almost any wood. We have been using it in our custom wood shop for over five years and have had great success with it.
We have found sanding to 400 or above and ragging it before finish helps with sheen and not needing any more then 4-5 thin coats for a nice semigloss sheen. Be sure to use only 100% cotton clean rags and buff out every coat and alow to dry overnight before applying another coat.
Best of luck.
-Shem
We have found sanding to 400 or above and ragging it before finish helps with sheen and not needing any more then 4-5 thin coats for a nice semigloss sheen. Be sure to use only 100% cotton clean rags and buff out every coat and alow to dry overnight before applying another coat.
Best of luck.
-Shem
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- SHEM M on Aug 23, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 9, 2015
How much does 1 quart cover? I built two barn doors out of dark walnut. They are 102" x 40" each. I will need to finish both doors front and back and want to have enough material on hand so as not to run into delays while completing this project. Thanks in advance for your help.
BEST ANSWER: That's nearly impossible to answer, it depends on a number of factors. It depends on how much you apply on the first coat, what you use to apply it with, how long you let it sit before rubbing it off to almost dry and how many coats you plan to do. All these are factors in how much you will actually use. My suggestion is that that you buy twice as much as you think you'll need, then buy two extra quarts. If you don't open or break the seal, you may be able to return them to Rockler for a full refund.
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- Dan C on Jun 13, 2018
- Purchased on Nov 29, 2016
What is best product to dust/clean wood after it is finished?
BEST ANSWER: Sam recommended Endust for cleaning his furniture. Honest.
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- Scott on Feb 24, 2018
Should this product be used for a walnut island top? Not planning on cutting on the top but will be placing glasses, etc. on it.
BEST ANSWER: It should be OK. I used it for a table top (natural edge butterfly key table), but there is glass over the top. I did make a small table, and have set a few beer glasses on it with no problem. It does provide a beautiful finish.
The "Anna" is my daughter who is the recipient of the table, and I sent her a can of the poly/oil for touch up.
Bruce Van Zee
The "Anna" is my daughter who is the recipient of the table, and I sent her a can of the poly/oil for touch up.
Bruce Van Zee
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- Anna R on Oct 29, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
Can this finish be applied over danish oil?
BEST ANSWER: The Sam Maloof poly oil finish is absorbed in the wood and the exceed is wiped off 5 minutes after thoroughly rubbing on the finish. If the Danish oil will allow it to absorb, I would say it is okay. I have used the Sam Maloof finish for 15 years and love it!
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- Larry S on May 25, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
Is the Sam Maloof poly oil finish considered "Food Safe" to be used on Bowls and serving platters?
BEST ANSWER: Whether it is food safe from a health point of view, I would not have an answer. I dont believe I would use it on wood used to make food utensils since I have doubts that it would protect the wood from water contact. It makes a beautiful finish for furniture. I have been making/restoring furniture for many years, it is my go-to finish for all my projects.
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- Jeffrey B on May 14, 2018
- Purchased on May 22, 2016
Can I apply this finish when it's raining?
BEST ANSWER: If you mean applying it while it is raining outside (high humidity) the answer is yes.
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- Mikka O on Apr 6, 2018
- Purchased on Apr 6, 2016
Can you use this on ceater an it look good ?
BEST ANSWER: I'm assuming you mean cedar.I have not used it on cedar but I believe it would work as long as the cedar has been sanded to a smooth finish prior to application.Follow the label directions and you will be surprised how good it looks and feels.
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- Rita on Oct 18, 2017
- Purchased on Oct 24, 2015
After finishing a walnut box with Maloof's products and letting it dry completely, I covered it with bubblewrap for shipping. It remained in the wrap for several months and now the finish is tacky. Is there anything I can do short of sanding and starting over?
BEST ANSWER: I recently had a mover tell me not to wrap wooden furniture in plastic wrap. The plastic makes the furniture sweat and holds in moisture. My recommendation would be to wipe it down with mineral spirits. Then let it dry overnight and then apply another coat of the finish.
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- Larry S on Oct 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
Would this be good for a guitar finish it has a stripe of purple hart down the center ?
BEST ANSWER: Jeff, just so your aware Purple Heart will eventually turn brownEnter an answer to this question.
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- Steve K on Feb 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
Can you use Sam Maloof poly/oil finish on maple stairs?
BEST ANSWER: It wouldn't be my first choice -- I'd prefer something more durable like Waterlox Marine or a wipe-on polyurethane. It's easier to repair, especially on stairs that will get a lot of wear. It would be fine for handrails or balustrades. Hope this helps -- Good luck.
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- Micheal F on Jan 26, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 24, 2015
Are Sam Maloof's oil and/varnish and oil/wax appropriate to use on teak cabinetry (kitchen and utility) and teak paneling and cabinetry (dining, living rooms)?
BEST ANSWER: Use them all the time on prefinished surfaces they both work great where you run in to problems is if a another product was used on surface as protectant murphy oil soap then you have to use a wax wash but even the poly acts different then with sams products just wipe on polys not t b at easy
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- ROB J on Jan 6, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 29, 2015
Anyone try to get stains out of your clothing?
BEST ANSWER: try bleach on white cloths and oxyclean on dark
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- ABRAHAM F on Jun 22, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 1, 2015
I have an unfinished maghogany door. Planning to use a water based wood gain filler. Can I still use Sams poly/oil with water based filler?
BEST ANSWER: Yes but make sure the water based application is very dry before applying the poly.
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- Roger W on Jun 5, 2018
- Purchased on Jun 7, 2016
What is about finishing walnut after hand plane? All instructions for this finish says that surface should be sanded with 400 grid. But what if my walnut table top has been hand planed? Will it be nice finish?
BEST ANSWER: I think it would look just fine. I’ve been using the poly oil and oil wax for years and it leaves a nice hand rubbed look to it, especially on Wallet.
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- Jay E on Nov 22, 2017
- Purchased on Nov 25, 2015
Would you use this to finish interior alder door? My plan is 1.Minwax Conditioner 2. Minwax Oil stain 3. Lacquer 4. General Finishes Glaze. 5. Sam Maloof Poly/Oil
OR oil based polyurethane.
Is everything ok with my plan?
OR oil based polyurethane.
Is everything ok with my plan?
BEST ANSWER: I don't think you want to put Sam Maloof Poly/Oil over lacquer and glaze. I used it on bare hardwood for a natural finish.
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- PATRICK W on Aug 15, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 24, 2015
Would this finish work OK on Oak kitchen cabinets?
BEST ANSWER: I like the product and would use it on the cabinets.....I would try a sample first to make sure it suits your taste... Great product
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- Frankie D on Jun 25, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 7, 2015
I am considering using this product on natural cherry bathroom cabinets. What are your thoughts and recommendations?
BEST ANSWER: I wouldnt use it for an area with alot of moister.
Its more of an oils for things like a nice table or chair.
Its more of an oils for things like a nice table or chair.
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- Stephen W on Mar 2, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 9, 2015
I'm not a woodworker, but my friend who is suggested this. I want to finish my dining room table, its raw wood now (looks like oak??)... but is this good for something that will get high use (nightly dinners)? I see in the description that the top coat is not for heat or moisture. I was just thinking about the occasional sweaty water cup or warm dinner plate. I have three kids, who aren't alwasy compliant with coasters. I just want to protect the wood as it appears to be getting ruined, being untreated. I don't want shiny, I just want it to look how it is, with protection.
Here is what I am dealing with: fileswithscott(dot)com/table.jpg
Thanks in advance for any input.
Here is what I am dealing with: fileswithscott(dot)com/table.jpg
Thanks in advance for any input.
BEST ANSWER: If you finish with a few coats, followed with a good coat of wax, you should be okay. I built a cherry dining table 20 years ago, and it is fine. When yo do get a ring or blemish, you can rob it out with fine steel wool and wax. The disadvantage of a hard finish is that a mar is much harder to repair than good oil finish. I do all my furniture projects with an oil finish.
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- Anna R on Feb 9, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
Reviews
5.0 / 5.0
76 Reviews
Excellent finish
Excellent product comprising three very inexpensive ingredients. After buying one outrageously priced can, I easily duplicated it (or came close) for about 1/10 the cost by mixing linseed and Tung oils with some poly.
Mixture
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excellent
I absolutely love using this product. Had been using Formby's tung oil for a while, but from now on I'm a
Sam Maloof poly/oil fan.
Sam Maloof poly/oil fan.
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Great product!
I used the Maloof finish poly oil in combanation with the Maloof wax and the results were outstanding. I used the product on walnut and cherry field with a maple accent strip awards plaque and it took to all species with no flaws. In the past I was a die hard lacquer finish proponent until my buddy turned me onto Maloof products. Only caution I would give is I heat my work space and high temps will affect your results; follow the directions.
Award plaque
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Good results.
It is an excellent product and is simple to use. Ive has consistently good results with this product
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Just beautiful
I used both poly oil and oil wax. It just popped the walnut, just enough, not less not much. You can still feel the wood, texture.Remember you need to apply several coats as much as it needs. Patience is the key here.
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My favorite wood finish
follow the directions on the label. You wont be disappointed!
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My favorite
Beautiful finish amazingly easy to apply
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Professional Grade Finish for All Levels of Experience
I have used Sam Maloof Poly Oil and Oil Wax Finish for many years. You can't go wrong. They are the best!
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Very easy to work with
This product gave my piece a very nice finish. It brings out the grain more, is easier to use, and is less smelly than other wipe on poly products I've tried.
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