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Overview
The late Sam Maloof, one of America's most accomplished woodworkers, used these same finishes on pieces placed in museums and the White House. Sold in pint- and quart-size cans.
"One of the most important aspects of finishes, I believe, is that they invite me to touch, to caress and to take pleasure in the wood surface." Sam Maloof.
Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish is a custom blend of polyurethane varnish and natural oils developed by Sam Maloof to beautifully finish his finest pieces. Ideal for use on furniture, cabinets and millwork. Enlivens wood grain and adds warmth to its color. Gives your project the look of a hand-rubbed satin finish in half the time it takes using pumice and rottenstone. Consider using Sam Maloof's Oil/Wax for the final coat to complete the look.
Sam Maloof Oil/Wax Finish is a blend of oils and waxes used as a final coat over Sam Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish to create a soft, hand-rubbed appearance while enlivening the wood's character. This topcoat is recommended for fine pieces that won't be exposed to heat or moisture. Apply with a cloth.
For more information on Sam Maloof, see Jeremy Adamson's book, The Furniture of Sam Maloof, the first thorough documentary of Maloof's life and work.
Important Notes
- Shipping Restrictions: Ground Transportation Only.
Technical Details
- Coats: 4 Suggested
- Suggested Oil/Wax: After finish dries use 1-2 coats of Sam Maloof Oil/Wax for best finish.
- Dry Time: 24 Hours
- Suggested Application: Liberally apply with soft cotton rag, wipe off excess
- Suggested Surface Prep: Sand surface with successive grits up to 400, then burnish with 0000 steel wool followed by a buffing with a cotton rag for best results.
- Spaces Incompatibilities: Not suggested for use on Zircote, Ebony or Rosewood
- Dry Time: 24 hrs
- Use: Interior
Technical Downloads
Frequently Bought Together
Questions and Answers
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Browse 30 questions
Browse 30 questions
and 112 answers
Why did you choose this?
Rockler Store
this is my go to finish for 99% of my turned bowls .
judy m
on Apr 17, 2018
I'm out
Stan B
on Apr 3, 2018
Makes red cedar look amazing.
Jeremy A
on Mar 10, 2018
This also was recommended to me to use
Joseph R
on Feb 20, 2018
Easy to use. great results.
Geoffrey K
on Jan 29, 2018
used before
David Adomites D
on Jan 17, 2018
Been using it for years and like it.
David H
on Jan 5, 2018
has been a good product for hardwood bandsaw boxes, and ornaments. Very nice finish.
Robert O
on Dec 25, 2017
Recommended as the best finish for my walnut table project
Michael B
on Nov 28, 2017
Great stuff - I buy it again and again!
Brian P
on Nov 8, 2017
what to see how it works on a table
Kevin L
on Oct 18, 2017
Have used it for years. Excellent product.
Rita N
on Sep 15, 2017
I looked up on youtube best wood finishes and found Sam Maloof's wood Finish to be the best for the results i was looking for!
I would also like to say thank you to my beautiful girlfriend Renee for putting up with me and buying my exotic Macassar Ebony book matched lumber to build my speakers :O I love you baby! Ian
I would also like to say thank you to my beautiful girlfriend Renee for putting up with me and buying my exotic Macassar Ebony book matched lumber to build my speakers :O I love you baby! Ian
Ian B. C
on Sep 11, 2017
Recommended by the maloof workshop. I have a maloof rocker.
Stephanie T
on Aug 30, 2017
I met Sam Maloof a number of years ago. I was always impressed with the finish on his products. I asked him what he used and he told me about this. It is exactly what I was looking for. More than straight oil, yet pleasant to use.
Thomas E
on Jul 26, 2017
Best finish ever!!!!!
Ramone G
on Jul 3, 2017
As a guitarmaker, I'm very familiar with spraying lacquer or french polishing with shellac, but I don't know ANYTHING about finishing "normal" furniture. I went with this based on Sam's reputation, the general look of the finish on his pieces, and a little piece of mind since I don't have to wonder if I chose the best products to make my own.
James O
on May 12, 2017
Best hand applied finish I have ever used. Use it on anything I possibly can!!!!!
Ramone G
on Apr 19, 2017
Repeat purchase, god previous results.
Bill W
on Mar 20, 2017
U-Tube recommendation
Donna K
on Mar 5, 2017
Same as above.
Fred P
on Feb 4, 2017
I read online that this is a superior varnish
colby b
on Jan 26, 2017
Have used it for years, one of the most beautiful finishes you can use..
Lorena L
on Jan 11, 2017
I am about to apply finish to a custom set of built in cabinets surrounding a fireplace. The two bases (left & right) have two drawers and two doors each with a cabinet top that measures 39w x 22d -- I simply want the BEST finish I can apply and all roads lead to Sam Maloof for heirloom quality finish. #MaloofRoleModel #MaloofGoals
Kevin J. R
on Dec 19, 2016
Building a Maloof inspired rocking chair...just seemed to make sense for my first build.
David G
on Nov 21, 2016
this is my go to finish for 99% of my turned bowls .
judy m
on Apr 17, 2018
Wanted to try it.
Ned R
on Apr 16, 2018
I'm out
Stan B
on Apr 3, 2018
Recommended to me by my expert-woodworker brother for finishing a live-edge walnut table top.
Brian A
on Mar 30, 2018
Makes red cedar look amazing.
Jeremy A
on Mar 10, 2018
Very expensive, but several coats leaves a very nice soft-glow finish.
Richard S
on Mar 1, 2018
This also was recommended to me to use
Joseph R
on Feb 20, 2018
Concerned that existing supply may not have survived winter weather and have a quick project to finish.
Bill W
on Feb 15, 2018
Easy to use. great results.
Geoffrey K
on Jan 29, 2018
This is my favorite furniture finish. Easy to apply and looks great!
David
on Jan 19, 2018
used before
David Adomites D
on Jan 17, 2018
it works!
Michel R
on Jan 16, 2018
Been using it for years and like it.
David H
on Jan 5, 2018
Used this for many years. Works very well!
GRAHAM M
on Jan 5, 2018
has been a good product for hardwood bandsaw boxes, and ornaments. Very nice finish.
Robert O
on Dec 25, 2017
This was recommended by a respected local craftsman.
Jeremy A
on Dec 11, 2017
Recommended as the best finish for my walnut table project
Michael B
on Nov 28, 2017
great product
donald w
on Nov 25, 2017
Great stuff - I buy it again and again!
Brian P
on Nov 8, 2017
I have used this poly/oil for year. I put it on are family table that I made 15 years ago still looks good after kids,pets and all the things they can do to a wood table
Mark F
on Oct 30, 2017
what to see how it works on a table
Kevin L
on Oct 18, 2017
recommended by a friend
Robert O
on Oct 1, 2017
Have used it for years. Excellent product.
Rita N
on Sep 15, 2017
I've used it exclusively for years. No need to try anything else.
ARLIN C
on Sep 14, 2017
I looked up on youtube best wood finishes and found Sam Maloof's wood Finish to be the best for the results i was looking for!
I would also like to say thank you to my beautiful girlfriend Renee for putting up with me and buying my exotic Macassar Ebony book matched lumber to build my speakers :O I love you baby! Ian
I would also like to say thank you to my beautiful girlfriend Renee for putting up with me and buying my exotic Macassar Ebony book matched lumber to build my speakers :O I love you baby! Ian
Ian B. C
on Sep 11, 2017
To use myself and as a gift
Stephen C
on Sep 4, 2017
Recommended by the maloof workshop. I have a maloof rocker.
Stephanie T
on Aug 30, 2017
It always produces excellent results.
Darrel G
on Aug 7, 2017
I met Sam Maloof a number of years ago. I was always impressed with the finish on his products. I asked him what he used and he told me about this. It is exactly what I was looking for. More than straight oil, yet pleasant to use.
Thomas E
on Jul 26, 2017
it seems to have a good reputation
richard j p
on Jul 11, 2017
Best finish ever!!!!!
Ramone G
on Jul 3, 2017
Recommended and had good reviews
Danny C
on May 31, 2017
As a guitarmaker, I'm very familiar with spraying lacquer or french polishing with shellac, but I don't know ANYTHING about finishing "normal" furniture. I went with this based on Sam's reputation, the general look of the finish on his pieces, and a little piece of mind since I don't have to wonder if I chose the best products to make my own.
James O
on May 12, 2017
New to me and I want to try this stuff.
Doris L
on May 12, 2017
Best hand applied finish I have ever used. Use it on anything I possibly can!!!!!
Ramone G
on Apr 19, 2017
I am ready to finish my third Maloof rocker.
James C
on Apr 12, 2017
Repeat purchase, god previous results.
Bill W
on Mar 20, 2017
because it is best
Mesfin M
on Mar 5, 2017
U-Tube recommendation
Donna K
on Mar 5, 2017
I making Maloof inspired chairs and want to use the same finish he used.
Stan B
on Feb 13, 2017
Same as above.
Fred P
on Feb 4, 2017
Saw a YouTube video , good results. The guy in video said it was his favorite also had other name brands he was comparing that i was familiar with
Tim W
on Jan 26, 2017
I read online that this is a superior varnish
colby b
on Jan 26, 2017
Good reviews.
Greg W
on Jan 17, 2017
Have used it for years, one of the most beautiful finishes you can use..
Lorena L
on Jan 11, 2017
Great reviews and reputation. Product is highly recommended. Watched YouTube videos.
Justin E
on Jan 9, 2017
I am about to apply finish to a custom set of built in cabinets surrounding a fireplace. The two bases (left & right) have two drawers and two doors each with a cabinet top that measures 39w x 22d -- I simply want the BEST finish I can apply and all roads lead to Sam Maloof for heirloom quality finish. #MaloofRoleModel #MaloofGoals
Kevin J. R
on Dec 19, 2016
wanted to try it
Dave K
on Nov 22, 2016
Building a Maloof inspired rocking chair...just seemed to make sense for my first build.
David G
on Nov 21, 2016
Because I build High End High Quality Elegant Rocking Chairs. The best results requires the best products
Arthur P
on Nov 18, 2016
Wanted to try it.
Ned R
on Apr 16, 2018
Recommended to me by my expert-woodworker brother for finishing a live-edge walnut table top.
Brian A
on Mar 30, 2018
Very expensive, but several coats leaves a very nice soft-glow finish.
Richard S
on Mar 1, 2018
Concerned that existing supply may not have survived winter weather and have a quick project to finish.
Bill W
on Feb 15, 2018
This is my favorite furniture finish. Easy to apply and looks great!
David
on Jan 19, 2018
it works!
Michel R
on Jan 16, 2018
Used this for many years. Works very well!
GRAHAM M
on Jan 5, 2018
This was recommended by a respected local craftsman.
Jeremy A
on Dec 11, 2017
great product
donald w
on Nov 25, 2017
I have used this poly/oil for year. I put it on are family table that I made 15 years ago still looks good after kids,pets and all the things they can do to a wood table
Mark F
on Oct 30, 2017
recommended by a friend
Robert O
on Oct 1, 2017
I've used it exclusively for years. No need to try anything else.
ARLIN C
on Sep 14, 2017
To use myself and as a gift
Stephen C
on Sep 4, 2017
It always produces excellent results.
Darrel G
on Aug 7, 2017
it seems to have a good reputation
richard j p
on Jul 11, 2017
Recommended and had good reviews
Danny C
on May 31, 2017
New to me and I want to try this stuff.
Doris L
on May 12, 2017
I am ready to finish my third Maloof rocker.
James C
on Apr 12, 2017
because it is best
Mesfin M
on Mar 5, 2017
I making Maloof inspired chairs and want to use the same finish he used.
Stan B
on Feb 13, 2017
Saw a YouTube video , good results. The guy in video said it was his favorite also had other name brands he was comparing that i was familiar with
Tim W
on Jan 26, 2017
Good reviews.
Greg W
on Jan 17, 2017
Great reviews and reputation. Product is highly recommended. Watched YouTube videos.
Justin E
on Jan 9, 2017
wanted to try it
Dave K
on Nov 22, 2016
Because I build High End High Quality Elegant Rocking Chairs. The best results requires the best products
Arthur P
on Nov 18, 2016
I have a 3-year-old Cherry surface finished with the Poly/Oil and (I think??) the Oil/Wax. I love the finish. It has of course darkened over time. There are a couple scuffs, not scratches, that I would like to repair prior to entering the piece in a show in one month. I tried applying a bit of the Poly/Oil, but not much difference. I could sand with a high grit and reapply the Poly/Oil, but I'm afraid of exposing lighter wood. Any recommendations for repair assuming I probably have the Oil/Wax finish coat?
MIke N
on Mar 31, 2016
Is this finish ok to use on a mantel? The fireplace is a gas with fake logs.
steve L
on Nov 22, 2015
BEST ANSWER: There is nothing like it that you can buy in ca.it gives you a true hand rubbed finish and good amount of time to work with theres a reason for the price andits worth it
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- ROB J on Jan 6, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 29, 2015
BEST ANSWER: There is nothing like it that you can buy in ca.it gives you a true hand rubbed finish and good amount of time to work with theres a reason for the price andits worth it
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- ROB J on Jan 6, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 29, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Do you still sand to 400 grit even with walnut? I've sanded to 325 and it looks like I have a finish on it. I heard to stop at 150 and then apply a finish because once the pores are closed up, it won't take a finish as well....what do recommend to do with walnut before using Sam Maloof?
Heather T
on Mar 5, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Maloof believed in finishing his wood first then sealing with finish. You can read his books about it. His favourite wood to work in was walnut. If you follow his method and sand until the wood is very smooth, then apply his finish, you get a very nice finished product. Walnut still has an open grain, yet it is still very polished and smooth. If you want a lacquered finish, you should use something else. This is not a grain filler, just more of a preservative and a polish. My family owns some Maloof pieces and this finish if you follow the protocol will give you a Maloof style finish.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Gregory H on Mar 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Maloof believed in finishing his wood first then sealing with finish. You can read his books about it. His favourite wood to work in was walnut. If you follow his method and sand until the wood is very smooth, then apply his finish, you get a very nice finished product. Walnut still has an open grain, yet it is still very polished and smooth. If you want a lacquered finish, you should use something else. This is not a grain filler, just more of a preservative and a polish. My family owns some Maloof pieces and this finish if you follow the protocol will give you a Maloof style finish.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Gregory H on Mar 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
Read the directions on the can. Sand to 400, apply the oil. It will soak in at 400. I recently did a Claro walnut natural edge table, book matched with butterfly keys. I followed the direction on the can - though sanded to 600 grit. Used Maloof oil//varnish, then oil/wax. It came out beautifully. I used 4X steel wool on the last application of oil/wax. Rub out the last coats with rags. Great finish - table took months to build.
- Reply(2)
- Inaccurate
- Anna R on Mar 6, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
Why steel wool? Doesn't it leave slivers in the wood that rust out later?
If you don't sand it smooth, it will leave bit of wool, but if you sand past 320, and have plenty of wax in the wool, you should not have a problem - particularly with hard woods. I have used all kinds of hard wood - maple burl, bubinga, paduk, walnut, bocote, tiger stripe, etc., and never had this problem. As I said, smooth sanding is the key..............You have to be particularly careful if the wood is open grain - tiger stripe being an example.
Oh I understand now, you apply the wax with the wool. Thank you so much for your input, it helps me out a lot as a beginner!
Also, you need not use steel wool - just fine sanding is ok. But I have used steel wool to apply wax for years. There are also fine sanding pads on the market, they work great, but more costly. Whatever you decide to use, a final buffing with cotton rags, leaves a nice luster. I usually use oil/varnish with a waqx finish on everything. I have gone through kids, and now have grandkids, and avoid hard finishes, and don't want to worry about scratches and dents. Life is too short to holler at kids..................
I finished a myrtle not so long ago and used Maloof finish
And so I sanded from 80 grit to 600 believe it or not but 400 is fine Sam suggests to use steel wool
Sand paper is fine
Oh and definitely after the sheen is established ,stop
Anymore will soften the first coats and become dill
Email me for pics angelFigueroa310@gmail Com
And so I sanded from 80 grit to 600 believe it or not but 400 is fine Sam suggests to use steel wool
Sand paper is fine
Oh and definitely after the sheen is established ,stop
Anymore will soften the first coats and become dill
Email me for pics angelFigueroa310@gmail Com
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- ABRAHAM F on Mar 5, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 1, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
How does the Sam Malouf Poly/Oil Finish perform on table tops?
Alexander
on Sep 30, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I've been using this finish since I took a seminar from Maloof in the early 90s. It's a beautiful finish that he used on everything, but in my experience it's not a durable, wood protection finish like a pure polyurethane would be. Like most oil type finishes, it doesn't build up a surface film for protection. That being said, if you have a table that you're willing to baby a little bit, it's still a beautiful finish and my favorite way to go. The best part is that it's very easy to renew the finish by just wiping on another coat if it starts to get dull or is exposed to too much heat or liquids, etc.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Gary A on Oct 1, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I've been using this finish since I took a seminar from Maloof in the early 90s. It's a beautiful finish that he used on everything, but in my experience it's not a durable, wood protection finish like a pure polyurethane would be. Like most oil type finishes, it doesn't build up a surface film for protection. That being said, if you have a table that you're willing to baby a little bit, it's still a beautiful finish and my favorite way to go. The best part is that it's very easy to renew the finish by just wiping on another coat if it starts to get dull or is exposed to too much heat or liquids, etc.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Gary A on Oct 1, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 25, 2015
I have been using this product for 25 years and I'm very pleased with it. I have used it on an desk that I refinished. I refinished the desk 25 years ago and it still looks great. Recently I refinished a quarter-sawn oak arts & crafts dining table. It turned out amazing!
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Larry S on Oct 1, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
I am sure it will look good but I am not sure how great the protection will be. I suspect (not sure) that you have to put some other coating over it to get a more waterproof/stain proof finish that tables probably would require.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Michael B on Oct 1, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 14, 2015
I love Maloof Finishes. If the table is going to receive heavy use I would recommend a polyurethane finish. Poly/Oil is a beautiful finish, it is just not tough enough for some applications
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Steve K on Oct 1, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Can poly/oil be applied over stained wood?
A shopper
on May 20, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Yes. Make sure your stained wood has dried for 24 hours. Sand with 400 grain sand paper very lightly. Wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Apply the poly/oil lightly and wipe off with a clean cotten cloth at least two times so only a thin coat remains on the wod. Let dry 24 hours and then reapply three more times.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- John H on May 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 23, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Yes. Make sure your stained wood has dried for 24 hours. Sand with 400 grain sand paper very lightly. Wipe off dust with a damp cloth. Apply the poly/oil lightly and wipe off with a clean cotten cloth at least two times so only a thin coat remains on the wod. Let dry 24 hours and then reapply three more times.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- John H on May 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 23, 2015
yes be sure it is completely dry before applying the sealer coat .I use waterlox as a sealer or you can use thindthind down shellac then three coats of poly oil then follow up with sams oil wax at least three coats rember the old saying ' three drops of oil and three day's of rubbing god luck -michaeljon.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Micheal F on May 24, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 24, 2015
Yes, just be sure to wipe the poly/oil off right after it is applied.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- David L on May 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 1, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
What do you use to wet sand the oil wax or the poly oil?
Charles
on May 15, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I used Abralon pads on a random orbital sander. They are often used for polishing bowling balls. For the poly oil, I used sanded all the to 500 grit for the first coat and 1000 grit for the second coat. Works great on black walnut as it fills in the pores. It's amazingly smooth. I left the bottom of the coffee table rough and tell people to first feel the bottom and then feel the top, they can't believe it. You can also look into 3M polishing paper.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- Al W on Feb 14, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I used Abralon pads on a random orbital sander. They are often used for polishing bowling balls. For the poly oil, I used sanded all the to 500 grit for the first coat and 1000 grit for the second coat. Works great on black walnut as it fills in the pores. It's amazingly smooth. I left the bottom of the coffee table rough and tell people to first feel the bottom and then feel the top, they can't believe it. You can also look into 3M polishing paper.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- Al W on Feb 14, 2016
try this trick/ after applying the oil lay out the rag flat not crumplted up on a flat surface let dry and use the hard rag to rub or burnish the finnish it works great good luck- michaeljon
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Micheal F on May 24, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 24, 2015
I use steel wool (0000) or an abrasive pad (white)...have never used wet but would think the grit would be in the 600 to 900 range...or higher.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- JIM B on May 15, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
0000 steelwool or a very fine grit wet sand paper; think I used 500 or maybe higher. just need to break down any bumps from prior coats.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- daves on May 15, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
How can I darken Sam Maloof Oil/Poly Finish? I tested on a cherry veneer sample sanded to 320 and it was perfect medium/dark cherry color. However, on my real cabinet, sanded to 400, it came out too light - light cherry. How can I darken my cabinet that will be compatible with the 2 coats of Sam Maloof Finish that's already on.
Thanks
Thanks
A shopper
on May 7, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I have not done this, but you could try (on a small sample) a couple of drops of concentrated dye, like Trans Tint. If you do this on your cabinet, be sure to have plenty of colored finish available as you will have problems mixing the same color with another batch.
What I do to darken a cherry project is give it a suntan - put it in direct sun light for a few days to a few weeks, rotating the item to get all sides. It will darken quite a bit doing this, and cherry will darken more over time. I would definitely try giving it a sun tan before using any dye.
As to why your cabinet is lighter, first, cherry boards vary a lot in color. Perhaps the basic color of the cherry wood you used was lighter than your sample ? And you may have sanded too much. I have gone to sanding to just up to 180 grit, then wet sand between coats with 600 grit to get a smooth surface.
What I do to darken a cherry project is give it a suntan - put it in direct sun light for a few days to a few weeks, rotating the item to get all sides. It will darken quite a bit doing this, and cherry will darken more over time. I would definitely try giving it a sun tan before using any dye.
As to why your cabinet is lighter, first, cherry boards vary a lot in color. Perhaps the basic color of the cherry wood you used was lighter than your sample ? And you may have sanded too much. I have gone to sanding to just up to 180 grit, then wet sand between coats with 600 grit to get a smooth surface.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Phil C on May 8, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I have not done this, but you could try (on a small sample) a couple of drops of concentrated dye, like Trans Tint. If you do this on your cabinet, be sure to have plenty of colored finish available as you will have problems mixing the same color with another batch.
What I do to darken a cherry project is give it a suntan - put it in direct sun light for a few days to a few weeks, rotating the item to get all sides. It will darken quite a bit doing this, and cherry will darken more over time. I would definitely try giving it a sun tan before using any dye.
As to why your cabinet is lighter, first, cherry boards vary a lot in color. Perhaps the basic color of the cherry wood you used was lighter than your sample ? And you may have sanded too much. I have gone to sanding to just up to 180 grit, then wet sand between coats with 600 grit to get a smooth surface.
What I do to darken a cherry project is give it a suntan - put it in direct sun light for a few days to a few weeks, rotating the item to get all sides. It will darken quite a bit doing this, and cherry will darken more over time. I would definitely try giving it a sun tan before using any dye.
As to why your cabinet is lighter, first, cherry boards vary a lot in color. Perhaps the basic color of the cherry wood you used was lighter than your sample ? And you may have sanded too much. I have gone to sanding to just up to 180 grit, then wet sand between coats with 600 grit to get a smooth surface.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Phil C on May 8, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
I rarely use sandpaper greater than 220 - mostly 180.. The finer the sanding the less porous the material - not enough pores for the oils to penetrate..
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Robert W on May 8, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 21, 2015
Your cherry will darken over time, the more light it is exposed to the faster it will darken. Hope this helped.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Thomas K on May 8, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
agree with other answers on time will darken. could try some darker amber shellac chips maybe in it.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- daves on May 15, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
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What if I applied a coat of shellac over ebony and then applied the poly/oil (shellac being considered the universal fix for compatibility issues)?
Richard F
on Mar 22, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I'm sure that would work, but you've lost the one thing that makes this finish work which is it's "absorption" in the pores of the wood to help build up the finish. Putting this over shellac would be like putting a very diluted coat of poly on top of your shellac. When you wipe off excess, you're wiping off most of your product and not getting much build. Why not just keep applying shellac? Or putting on a true poly over the shellac (which I do very often)?
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- Gary A on Mar 22, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I'm sure that would work, but you've lost the one thing that makes this finish work which is it's "absorption" in the pores of the wood to help build up the finish. Putting this over shellac would be like putting a very diluted coat of poly on top of your shellac. When you wipe off excess, you're wiping off most of your product and not getting much build. Why not just keep applying shellac? Or putting on a true poly over the shellac (which I do very often)?
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- Gary A on Mar 22, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
no problem, the two interact simless.
chuck T.
chuck T.
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- Chuck T on Mar 22, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 31, 2015
Have never tried it, sorry, can't help.
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- Anna R on Mar 22, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
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Is this product food safe?
P I
on Apr 25, 2016
BEST ANSWER: This is definitely not a food safe finish - it's polyurethane and linseed oils primarily. Has volatile compounds in it (the drying agents in the oils). For food safe, you want something like a mineral oil finish.
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- Gary A on Apr 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
BEST ANSWER: This is definitely not a food safe finish - it's polyurethane and linseed oils primarily. Has volatile compounds in it (the drying agents in the oils). For food safe, you want something like a mineral oil finish.
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- Gary A on Apr 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
It does not say it is food safe on the package. You probably should use a product designated for things like wooden bowls. It is safe to apply with your hands.
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- Larry S on Apr 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
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Any suggestions if the Sam Maloof finish can be used for Sapele (an exotic hardwood from Africa)? There seems to be different bits of advice in the instructions on the can (do not use on Ebony, Zirocote or Rosewood) and in the Q&A section here from successes with exotic hardwoods and someone indicating that Sam did not favor this for exotic hardwoods. Any experiences or thoughts from others would be appreciated.
David D
on Sep 4, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The instructions on the can are good advise for not applying to those those particular woods, Bocote as well. It tends to be muted and cloudy. But on Sapele it always comes out beautiful. My only suggestion would be to watch for bleed back. Come back in 15 mins or so and check your work piece. Hope this helps and good luck on your project.
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- SHEM M on Sep 6, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The instructions on the can are good advise for not applying to those those particular woods, Bocote as well. It tends to be muted and cloudy. But on Sapele it always comes out beautiful. My only suggestion would be to watch for bleed back. Come back in 15 mins or so and check your work piece. Hope this helps and good luck on your project.
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- SHEM M on Sep 6, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
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How can I use your stain and finish on maple?
Art M
on Nov 3, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The mallof oil works great on maple over any type stain that has dried thoroughly / many coats over many days is my recommendation
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- mandoiac on Feb 1, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 14, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The mallof oil works great on maple over any type stain that has dried thoroughly / many coats over many days is my recommendation
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- mandoiac on Feb 1, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 14, 2015
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I'm currently building a Koa Wood coffee table and would love to know Sam Maloff poly/oil be a good finish?? I'm a average woodworker and would love your advice on best way to finish.. Best, Sean
A shopper
on Aug 23, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Great job on choosing a beautiful wood for your project! And yes, Sam Maloff is an excellent oil finish for almost any wood. We have been using it in our custom wood shop for over five years and have had great success with it.
We have found sanding to 400 or above and ragging it before finish helps with sheen and not needing any more then 4-5 thin coats for a nice semigloss sheen. Be sure to use only 100% cotton clean rags and buff out every coat and alow to dry overnight before applying another coat.
Best of luck.
-Shem
We have found sanding to 400 or above and ragging it before finish helps with sheen and not needing any more then 4-5 thin coats for a nice semigloss sheen. Be sure to use only 100% cotton clean rags and buff out every coat and alow to dry overnight before applying another coat.
Best of luck.
-Shem
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- SHEM M on Aug 23, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 9, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Great job on choosing a beautiful wood for your project! And yes, Sam Maloff is an excellent oil finish for almost any wood. We have been using it in our custom wood shop for over five years and have had great success with it.
We have found sanding to 400 or above and ragging it before finish helps with sheen and not needing any more then 4-5 thin coats for a nice semigloss sheen. Be sure to use only 100% cotton clean rags and buff out every coat and alow to dry overnight before applying another coat.
Best of luck.
-Shem
We have found sanding to 400 or above and ragging it before finish helps with sheen and not needing any more then 4-5 thin coats for a nice semigloss sheen. Be sure to use only 100% cotton clean rags and buff out every coat and alow to dry overnight before applying another coat.
Best of luck.
-Shem
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- SHEM M on Aug 23, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 9, 2015
I have used it on Claro Walnut, Rosewood and mahogany, and found it to be excellent. I finished all pieces with 3 coats and finished off with Maloff oil/wax.
BVZ, Nevada City CA
BVZ, Nevada City CA
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- Anna R on Aug 23, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
how durable is the Maloof Finish. I have a 9' walnut slab table i am finishing and i love the Maloof finish look but, i don't know if it will hold up to the kids??
I really can't give you a good answer. I have five kids, all grown now, and I just live with a little damage. My personal belief, if you can't live with a few mars on your furniture, walls and cars, you shouldn't have kids. The oil, applied with some steel wool, followed by wax, makes most dents liveable - by my standards.
I did purchase this produce but have yet to use it. I will be glad to share my experience once I have applied it to a project.
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- Dale G on Aug 25, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 4, 2015
Shem, thank you for the answer. I will let you know how it goes. Best, Sean
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- seaniemacd on Aug 25, 2015
Sam has suggested not using his product on any exotic wood
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- William D on Aug 24, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 5, 2015
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What is best product to dust/clean wood after it is finished?
Gary S
on Apr 25, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Sam recommended Endust for cleaning his furniture. Honest.
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- Scott on Feb 24, 2018
BEST ANSWER: Sam recommended Endust for cleaning his furniture. Honest.
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- Scott on Feb 24, 2018
I simply use a micro fiber towel
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- ABRAHAM F on Apr 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 1, 2015
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Should this product be used for a walnut island top? Not planning on cutting on the top but will be placing glasses, etc. on it.
Doug N
on Oct 29, 2015
BEST ANSWER: It should be OK. I used it for a table top (natural edge butterfly key table), but there is glass over the top. I did make a small table, and have set a few beer glasses on it with no problem. It does provide a beautiful finish.
The "Anna" is my daughter who is the recipient of the table, and I sent her a can of the poly/oil for touch up.
Bruce Van Zee
The "Anna" is my daughter who is the recipient of the table, and I sent her a can of the poly/oil for touch up.
Bruce Van Zee
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- Anna R on Oct 29, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
BEST ANSWER: It should be OK. I used it for a table top (natural edge butterfly key table), but there is glass over the top. I did make a small table, and have set a few beer glasses on it with no problem. It does provide a beautiful finish.
The "Anna" is my daughter who is the recipient of the table, and I sent her a can of the poly/oil for touch up.
Bruce Van Zee
The "Anna" is my daughter who is the recipient of the table, and I sent her a can of the poly/oil for touch up.
Bruce Van Zee
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- Anna R on Oct 29, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
I would not use it for a island top ,too much wear & tear a great choice is salad bowl finish by general finishes three to four coats then buff with 4ott steel wool it looks and feels great ,good luck michaeljon.
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- Micheal F on Oct 30, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 24, 2015
A great product for bringing out the grain in walnut but hot drinks should not be placed on a surface finished with this product. It will leave a mark,
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- JAMES L on Nov 1, 2015
- Purchased on Jun 16, 2015
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Can this finish be applied over danish oil?
A shopper
on May 25, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The Sam Maloof poly oil finish is absorbed in the wood and the exceed is wiped off 5 minutes after thoroughly rubbing on the finish. If the Danish oil will allow it to absorb, I would say it is okay. I have used the Sam Maloof finish for 15 years and love it!
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- Larry S on May 25, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The Sam Maloof poly oil finish is absorbed in the wood and the exceed is wiped off 5 minutes after thoroughly rubbing on the finish. If the Danish oil will allow it to absorb, I would say it is okay. I have used the Sam Maloof finish for 15 years and love it!
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- Larry S on May 25, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
Although I have not personally done it, I believe it would work fine. I've used it over Minwax tung oil and it turned out fabulous. I loved working with the Maloof finish and was very pleased with the results.
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- Stephen D on May 25, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 13, 2015
Haven't tried it. I would think so since they are both an oil based product.
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- Stephen W on May 25, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 9, 2015
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Can I apply this finish when it's raining?
pamlir
on Apr 5, 2018
BEST ANSWER: If you mean applying it while it is raining outside (high humidity) the answer is yes.
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- Mikka O on Apr 6, 2018
- Purchased on Apr 6, 2016
BEST ANSWER: If you mean applying it while it is raining outside (high humidity) the answer is yes.
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- Mikka O on Apr 6, 2018
- Purchased on Apr 6, 2016
Assuming you are in your shop :)
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- Mikka O on Apr 6, 2018
- Purchased on Apr 6, 2016
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Can you use this on ceater an it look good ?
David F
on Oct 18, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I'm assuming you mean cedar.I have not used it on cedar but I believe it would work as long as the cedar has been sanded to a smooth finish prior to application.Follow the label directions and you will be surprised how good it looks and feels.
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- Wayne B on Oct 18, 2017
- Purchased on Oct 24, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I'm assuming you mean cedar.I have not used it on cedar but I believe it would work as long as the cedar has been sanded to a smooth finish prior to application.Follow the label directions and you will be surprised how good it looks and feels.
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- Wayne B on Oct 18, 2017
- Purchased on Oct 24, 2015
Hi David,
Yes this will work on cedar. Sand well remove any dust and apply. After appling wipe any remaining finish off and let dry. Repeat if needed.
Yes this will work on cedar. Sand well remove any dust and apply. After appling wipe any remaining finish off and let dry. Repeat if needed.
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- B A on Oct 18, 2017
- Purchased on Oct 30, 2015
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After finishing a walnut box with Maloof's products and letting it dry completely, I covered it with bubblewrap for shipping. It remained in the wrap for several months and now the finish is tacky. Is there anything I can do short of sanding and starting over?
Larry Y
on Oct 4, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I recently had a mover tell me not to wrap wooden furniture in plastic wrap. The plastic makes the furniture sweat and holds in moisture. My recommendation would be to wipe it down with mineral spirits. Then let it dry overnight and then apply another coat of the finish.
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- Larry S on Oct 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I recently had a mover tell me not to wrap wooden furniture in plastic wrap. The plastic makes the furniture sweat and holds in moisture. My recommendation would be to wipe it down with mineral spirits. Then let it dry overnight and then apply another coat of the finish.
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- Larry S on Oct 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
Oil finishes may feel dry but can take weeks to cure. Not knowing what process you followed I suggest you let it air dry. Did you wax it?
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- Steve K on Oct 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
Thank you for responding. No, I did not put wax on it - would that make a difference?
I was curious if you use poly oil followed by oil wax Maloof? If you used just poly oil only, then you can lightly hand sand with 320 to get the surface smooth again. The clean it up and pick up again with the poly oil. Give at least a day between coats. When you achieve the luster your after it will take some time to dry. Once you wrapped that piece it's drying process ceased. If the area where it was stored was warm the heat compounded your problem. My personal experience is that this finish takes several weeks to fully cure.
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Would this be good for a guitar finish it has a stripe of purple hart down the center ?
Jeff R
on Feb 6, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Jeff, just so your aware Purple Heart will eventually turn brownEnter an answer to this question.
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- Steve K on Feb 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Jeff, just so your aware Purple Heart will eventually turn brownEnter an answer to this question.
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- Steve K on Feb 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
Not certain. It may be a little oily
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- Michael B on Feb 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 14, 2015
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Can you use Sam Maloof poly/oil finish on maple stairs?
Ely H
on Jan 25, 2016
BEST ANSWER: It wouldn't be my first choice -- I'd prefer something more durable like Waterlox Marine or a wipe-on polyurethane. It's easier to repair, especially on stairs that will get a lot of wear. It would be fine for handrails or balustrades. Hope this helps -- Good luck.
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- Micheal F on Jan 26, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 24, 2015
BEST ANSWER: It wouldn't be my first choice -- I'd prefer something more durable like Waterlox Marine or a wipe-on polyurethane. It's easier to repair, especially on stairs that will get a lot of wear. It would be fine for handrails or balustrades. Hope this helps -- Good luck.
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- Micheal F on Jan 26, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 24, 2015
You can, although I think waterlox would hold up better. Similar type of products
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- NICHOLAS H on Jan 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
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Are Sam Maloof's oil and/varnish and oil/wax appropriate to use on teak cabinetry (kitchen and utility) and teak paneling and cabinetry (dining, living rooms)?
KevLane
on Sep 22, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Use them all the time on prefinished surfaces they both work great where you run in to problems is if a another product was used on surface as protectant murphy oil soap then you have to use a wax wash but even the poly acts different then with sams products just wipe on polys not t b at easy
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- ROB J on Jan 6, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 29, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Use them all the time on prefinished surfaces they both work great where you run in to problems is if a another product was used on surface as protectant murphy oil soap then you have to use a wax wash but even the poly acts different then with sams products just wipe on polys not t b at easy
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- ROB J on Jan 6, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 29, 2015
it will work but it is kind of fussy with oily woods ,for case work I would recomend poly gel it cant run or drip and can be buffed out to a nice finish. .
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- Micheal F on Sep 24, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 24, 2015
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Anyone try to get stains out of your clothing?
A shopper
on Jun 19, 2015
BEST ANSWER: try bleach on white cloths and oxyclean on dark
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- ABRAHAM F on Jun 22, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 1, 2015
BEST ANSWER: try bleach on white cloths and oxyclean on dark
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- ABRAHAM F on Jun 22, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 1, 2015
Wear old clothes when finishing and gloves !
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- mandoiac on Feb 1, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 14, 2015
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What is about finishing walnut after hand plane? All instructions for this finish says that surface should be sanded with 400 grid. But what if my walnut table top has been hand planed? Will it be nice finish?
manusovich
on Nov 21, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I think it would look just fine. I’ve been using the poly oil and oil wax for years and it leaves a nice hand rubbed look to it, especially on Wallet.
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- Jay E on Nov 22, 2017
- Purchased on Nov 25, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I think it would look just fine. I’ve been using the poly oil and oil wax for years and it leaves a nice hand rubbed look to it, especially on Wallet.
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- Jay E on Nov 22, 2017
- Purchased on Nov 25, 2015
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Would you use this to finish interior alder door? My plan is 1.Minwax Conditioner 2. Minwax Oil stain 3. Lacquer 4. General Finishes Glaze. 5. Sam Maloof Poly/Oil
OR oil based polyurethane.
Is everything ok with my plan?
OR oil based polyurethane.
Is everything ok with my plan?
alder
on Aug 15, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I don't think you want to put Sam Maloof Poly/Oil over lacquer and glaze. I used it on bare hardwood for a natural finish.
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- PATRICK W on Aug 15, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 24, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I don't think you want to put Sam Maloof Poly/Oil over lacquer and glaze. I used it on bare hardwood for a natural finish.
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- PATRICK W on Aug 15, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 24, 2015
Thank you, Patrick W.
So polyurethane as last top coat is ok?
So polyurethane as last top coat is ok?
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- alder on Aug 15, 2017
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Would this finish work OK on Oak kitchen cabinets?
George M
on Jun 25, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I like the product and would use it on the cabinets.....I would try a sample first to make sure it suits your taste... Great product
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- Frankie D on Jun 25, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 7, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I like the product and would use it on the cabinets.....I would try a sample first to make sure it suits your taste... Great product
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- Frankie D on Jun 25, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 7, 2015
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I am considering using this product on natural cherry bathroom cabinets. What are your thoughts and recommendations?
Diane H
on Mar 2, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I wouldnt use it for an area with alot of moister.
Its more of an oils for things like a nice table or chair.
Its more of an oils for things like a nice table or chair.
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- Stephen W on Mar 2, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 9, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I wouldnt use it for an area with alot of moister.
Its more of an oils for things like a nice table or chair.
Its more of an oils for things like a nice table or chair.
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- Stephen W on Mar 2, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 9, 2015
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I'm not a woodworker, but my friend who is suggested this. I want to finish my dining room table, its raw wood now (looks like oak??)... but is this good for something that will get high use (nightly dinners)? I see in the description that the top coat is not for heat or moisture. I was just thinking about the occasional sweaty water cup or warm dinner plate. I have three kids, who aren't alwasy compliant with coasters. I just want to protect the wood as it appears to be getting ruined, being untreated. I don't want shiny, I just want it to look how it is, with protection.
Here is what I am dealing with: fileswithscott(dot)com/table.jpg
Thanks in advance for any input.
Here is what I am dealing with: fileswithscott(dot)com/table.jpg
Thanks in advance for any input.
Scott
on Feb 9, 2017
BEST ANSWER: If you finish with a few coats, followed with a good coat of wax, you should be okay. I built a cherry dining table 20 years ago, and it is fine. When yo do get a ring or blemish, you can rob it out with fine steel wool and wax. The disadvantage of a hard finish is that a mar is much harder to repair than good oil finish. I do all my furniture projects with an oil finish.
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- Anna R on Feb 9, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
Thanks for the fast reply. That is exactly what I will do, finish with the oil wax, as they suggested.
And I know it may be obvious to you, but are you sanding between coats (400 grit)?
And I know it may be obvious to you, but are you sanding between coats (400 grit)?
BEST ANSWER: If you finish with a few coats, followed with a good coat of wax, you should be okay. I built a cherry dining table 20 years ago, and it is fine. When yo do get a ring or blemish, you can rob it out with fine steel wool and wax. The disadvantage of a hard finish is that a mar is much harder to repair than good oil finish. I do all my furniture projects with an oil finish.
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- Anna R on Feb 9, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 3, 2015
Thanks for the fast reply. That is exactly what I will do, finish with the oil wax, as they suggested.
And I know it may be obvious to you, but are you sanding between coats (400 grit)?
And I know it may be obvious to you, but are you sanding between coats (400 grit)?
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I'm planning to fill checks and voids on a large claro walnut slab with system 3 epoxy. how will that look with this finish on the slab? I'm concerned the epoxy will be glossier than the surrounding wood and will really stand out, but i like the look of this finish.
chris d
on May 25, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I've used Maloof finish for years now and over a lot of epoxy fill crakes and incursions and it always come out great. The epoxy is noticeable, but not because of a different sheen. It's just darker since its epoxy, but all walnut this will be minimal. Good luck! Love Claro walnut.
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- SHEM M on May 26, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I've used Maloof finish for years now and over a lot of epoxy fill crakes and incursions and it always come out great. The epoxy is noticeable, but not because of a different sheen. It's just darker since its epoxy, but all walnut this will be minimal. Good luck! Love Claro walnut.
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- SHEM M on May 26, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 2, 2015
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can you add colour to this product?
Brenda S
on Feb 2, 2018
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Great product!
I used the Maloof finish poly oil in combanation with the Maloof wax and the results were outstanding. I used the product on walnut and cherry field with a maple accent strip awards plaque and it took to all species with no flaws. In the past I was a die hard lacquer finish proponent until my buddy turned me onto Maloof products. Only caution I would give is I heat my work space and high temps will affect your results; follow the directions.

Award plaque
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Good results.
It is an excellent product and is simple to use. Ive has consistently good results with this product
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Just beautiful
I used both poly oil and oil wax. It just popped the walnut, just enough, not less not much. You can still feel the wood, texture.Remember you need to apply several coats as much as it needs. Patience is the key here.




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My favorite wood finish
follow the directions on the label. You wont be disappointed!
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My favorite
Beautiful finish amazingly easy to apply


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Professional Grade Finish for All Levels of Experience
I have used Sam Maloof Poly Oil and Oil Wax Finish for many years. You can't go wrong. They are the best!
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Very easy to work with
This product gave my piece a very nice finish. It brings out the grain more, is easier to use, and is less smelly than other wipe on poly products I've tried.
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Aloof remains aloof from the pack.
This is my new standard for a poly/oil finish. The clarity I get is unsurpassed, so I can entrust my finest woods to it. The true color glows. The detail is undiminished.
I am in easy control of couples shapes and textures to get the results I want with light, good coverage built to my expectations. Even a beginner can be confident.
Sometimes I will finish with Maloof's wax on top to add subtle character.
I am in easy control of couples shapes and textures to get the results I want with light, good coverage built to my expectations. Even a beginner can be confident.
Sometimes I will finish with Maloof's wax on top to add subtle character.
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Really EZ to use good for walnut and hard maple, Oak Id use a sanding sealer first then sams. Ive not tried it on large Ray celled wood like oak so dont know.
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Beautiful results, easy to use
Similar to 'mix your own' recommendations I've received over the years, and seems to be the best obtainable in California with its restrictive air pollution regulations. No surprise - on black walnut it brings out great depth and color. Surprise: on maple, we really like the results on curly or figured maple, quite beautiful, with great depth, but it darkens the wood quite a lot (try it on a test sample first!). Easy to use.
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Applied oil on trivets. Was very easy and the best part was there wasn't much of an odor. Let them dry for a few days and then packed them up.
Will use this instead of tung oil.
Will use this instead of tung oil.
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First time - it's a winner
Very nice finish - will definitely find a place in my shop for many projects to come...


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This worked extremely well. I sanded the rocker to 400 grit and then applied the finish with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Four coats of the poly/oil and 2 coats of the oil/wax. Unbelievable silky feel when done. I bought a quart of the poly/oil, but I could have probably gotten by with a pint for the rocker.

Maloof-style rocker with 4 coats Poly/Oil finish and 2 coats Oil/Wax finish.
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Good finish
Very nice finish. Appliies the same as Danish oil. Feel thicker, richer, smooth finish.
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Excellent easy to work with product.
Excellent easy to work with product.
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Love Sam Maloof products
Sam Maloof products always live up to their description. I love the finish it leaves on my furniture. I have used it on walnut, red oak, and cherry. It looks great and is easy to apply without leaving brush strokes visible.
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Easy to use, the result is fabulous. Use the wax finish for best result
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Have used it for years. Can't go without it. Simply, the best of all finishes.
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So Far so Good
Just applied this (4 layers oil, 2 layers wax) to an African Mahogany benchtop. It popped the grain beautifully, was extremely easy to apply, and has a great feel without that 'coating' sense.
Ditto everyone else's comments about needing to completely remove all oil after each application. Same for wax applications. If you don't, you'll have sticky slick oil spots wherever you left it on.
I have yet to assess the durability and ongoing water resistance, but so far so good
Ditto everyone else's comments about needing to completely remove all oil after each application. Same for wax applications. If you don't, you'll have sticky slick oil spots wherever you left it on.
I have yet to assess the durability and ongoing water resistance, but so far so good


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Perfect walnut finish
An enhancing finish to these recently completed walnut dining room chairs. The Maloof finish beckons the human touch and undisappointingly rewards the eyes with a natural sheen.


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Best of the best
Spendy but beautiful ... follow the instructions to the T and use the companion product recommended and you can not go wrong.
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Great for a natural satin finish
I have used this the Maloof poly/oil finish on several furniture projects and it always looks great. Very easy to apply. I recommend following the instructions - sand to 400 grit and burnish with a rag. Make Cherry wood look stunning.
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Maloof's Finish
I've built quite a few of the Sam Maloof style rocking chair and just love this finish. I know it's expensive but worth every penny. I put on a heavy coat and then wipe it off. I'm in no hurry to wipe it off. I put on two coats of Poly/Oil mix, then two coats of his Oil/Wax mix, wait a couple days for the oils to evaporate and then at least one coat of wax buffed out. One coat a day and the end results is a beautifully finished chair. I find the Oil/Wax mix does not have enough wax to buff to a shine, so that's why I wax and buff at least one additional coat sometimes two. I have a couple chairs at home with this finish all most four years old and finish still looks like the day it was applied. To say the least I'm a big fan.
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I have used this on three projects including a Sam Maloof rocker and conoid chair and I am pleased with the results, thus I have ordered more even though I have to get a friend from USA to drop it off here when he visits.
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Great Product for Small Projects
I have been using the Sam Maloof poly/oil finish for over 15 years on small projects with excellent results. I doesn't replace lacquer for larger projects or areas subject to moisture but for small projects it can't be beat.


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BEYOND EXCELLENT
I initially used the combo of POLY/OIL and OIL/WAX on a blanket chest I made of cherry and it turned out GREAT. The chest was submerged in a flood for two days. When dried out and buffed, it was still magnificent. While rebuilding our house, I used this combination to finish our new A & C staircase. Stunning. Prime NY cherry with strong grain lines/patterns was used for the handrail, the spindles, the newels, and the casing. I am close to completing a 23 foot long Shaker Built-in almost exactly like the FWW front cover in Sept 2011. I have used the two Maloof finishes for this project. The beauty of the cherry is enhanced dramatically by these two finishes. I have tried others and NOTHING compares to the combination of these two finishes. I have used just the three coats of oil/poly with a GF topcoat for a
table top. Absolutely customer pleasing-my best reward. Product should be flooded onto the project. The excess oil/poly should be gently wiped off almost immediately, AND THEN TWICE MORE IN THE NEXT THREE/FOUR HOURS. It is a pain, but the reward is worth it. If the project gets drips/runs, sand that portion down and start over. No big deal. Just be more careful next time.
table top. Absolutely customer pleasing-my best reward. Product should be flooded onto the project. The excess oil/poly should be gently wiped off almost immediately, AND THEN TWICE MORE IN THE NEXT THREE/FOUR HOURS. It is a pain, but the reward is worth it. If the project gets drips/runs, sand that portion down and start over. No big deal. Just be more careful next time.
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Pirate treasure chest
Two coats of Sam Maloof. Soft feel, smooth finish.


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a marvelous product
Easy to use and instead of me trying to decide which oil and finish product to use, it is all my three favorites in one. how great is that.


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Great finish!
This is the first time I have used this finish. It was recommended to me by a friend who makes these chairs for a living. He also noted that I should follow the directions. I did and the finish came out flawless. I will recommend this to everyone I know.

Added Jun 11, 2016
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Nice finishing product
Have used on two large cherry projects. I think the surface it leaves is very rich and mellow. I find that it goes on and off pretty easily. I've never had to rub off with four different cloths. So far I've done 4 coats on each project and I think it looks quite good. Don't get chance of drips like I sometimes do with straight varnish.
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Great Finish
Very easy to use and provided excellent finish for cradle fro new grandson. Will definitely use again and again.


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The best finish you an apply to your project.
I use Maloof poly oil finish on all my custom cabinetry. 5 coats of this finish will make your woodwork look like fine furniture.
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expensive but wotth it
I use this product in many ways on mostly small projects / i like that it drys fairly hard for an oil finish / wear gloves / to expensive for large projects except as a surface treatment after other less expensive oils have lost their luster / i do like and recommend this product,try it
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Great Product - Would Recommend
This product arrived promptly and in good condition. The material was fresh and highly usable. The heavy viscosity builds fast and dried quickly and completely. I used the product on a cherry rocking chair and 1 can just covered 4 coats. I have recommended this product to a friend.
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Great product
Used it for the first time and loved the results.
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Great Finish
it's everything and more in the description
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Best All-around Wipe-on Finish
I almost always use the Maloof finish on my cherry and walnut pieces. I have found it to be the best all-around wipe-on and wipe-off finish.
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This is the very best by far.
I think the title says it all. This and the wax/oil are the only ones I use now. So very easy to apply and they make my stuff just shine!!!
Been wood working 45+ years, take my advice and try these, you won't go back.
Been wood working 45+ years, take my advice and try these, you won't go back.
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Have used the Maloof finishes for years. Would not consider using any other finishes.
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Excellent Product
I found this product very easy to apply, and the finish is beautiful.
This is a forgiving product to use.
This is a forgiving product to use.
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Quality Product
I used this on a Fig tree that had died in my yard. I stripped the tree and made a floor lamp and the Maloof Poly/oil made for a great finish. Nothing short of great compliments on the finish.
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Outstanding finish
Used this per the instructions on a mahogany and teak gong stand I built. Sealed the teak first with shellac b/c Rocklers advised against using the Maloof oil directly on exotic woods as it takes a long time to dry b/c of the resins in the wood. The whole thing is gorgeous.
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Great Finish
I have built a Sam Maloof inspired rocking chair. I purchased this oil/wax and the oil/poly to duplicate Sam's finish. They both are a great finish. Easy to apply and touch up. Brings out the natural beauty and grain in walnut.
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March 12, 2015
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Fantastic Finish for Display Cabinet
I choose the Maloof Poly/Oil and Oil/Wax combination to finish a black walnut display cabinet. This was the first time in using this finish so I followed the directions pretty closely. I did decide to sand the wood to 600 grit. Then I applied a stain to even the tone of the wood. After 24 hours I started rubbing in the finish. I did find that 8-10 hours between coats seemed sufficient. The finish resulted in a deep close-to-the-wood finish that everyone wants to touch. It is gorgeous. One of the real benefits of this type of finish in my shop is I have a small space that I have to use for everything from milling the raw lumber into boards to finishing. This finish does not have to be applied in a clean room. Since it is dry when you finish applying it, it does not collect all the nibs from dust other finishes do. This is not a finish for a table top but for other furniture, it is an amazing finish. Highly recommended!
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February 25, 2015
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Excellent and easy to use
This was my first use of the Maloof poly/oil and oil/wax finishes. After much reading and research, I decided to try it. I built a walnut set of drawers mounted on an iron base with a granite top. I sanded to a 500 smooth finish and applied the poly/oil with a cheap foam brush to assure even coverage. After applying the poly/oil, I wiped the surface several times (3 or 4) until the surface felt dry to the touch. Then, let is dry over night. I applied 5 coats of the poly/oil and two of the oil/wax (again with a foam brush followed by wiping to dry). The finish is absolutely magnificent. Glassy smooth to the touch while leaving natural grain exposed, not covered as a typical poly finish will do. I may never use another finish again on a non-table top surface.
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February 17, 2014
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Our price is lower than the manufacturer's "minimum advertised price." As a result, we cannot show you the price in catalog or the product page.
You have no obligation to purchase the product once you know the price. You can simply remove the item from your cart.
You have no obligation to purchase the product once you know the price. You can simply remove the item from your cart.