Just what I needed
Posted December 7, 2013
I was building a four post bed and needed a way to connect the headboard and footboard to the posts that would be easy to disconnect and would also be hidden. I went with these and cut a shallow mortise into the bed posts. Perfect! They lock in tight and come apart without any fuss.
The brackets worked on the bed...
Posted February 6, 2011
The brackets worked on the bed for five years but then began spreading and allowing the footboard and headboard to skew away from the rails and eventually fall off.
After belatedly reading the instructions -...
Posted January 23, 2011
After belatedly reading the instructions - which are not packaged with the connectors, but can be found on the Rockler web site under "Tech Info" - I've discovered that most, if not all, of the criticisms in my 1/17/2011 review were not warranted. Although I used #8 pan head screws for both parts, the instructions specify the use of #8's for the female part and #6's for the male part. My only remaining reservation about them is that I had to shorten the male part by @ 1/4" so it would not hit the head of the #8 bottom screw in the female part. Perhaps using a #6 screw there would have solved that problem. All that being said, I would not hesitate to recommend these connectors if you're looking for a strong, easy to disassemble joint. Unlike the computer table in the background of my picture - which was assembled in the room with glued mortise and tenon joints at each end of the long aprons, weighs a ton, and will have to be turned up on end to get it out of the room - the table/desk in the foreground can be quickly broken down into 6 easily moved components by removing the 8 screws and clips securing the top, removing the two pegs wedged into each end of the shelf, and tapping up on the connectors at each end to remove the front and rear aprons.
So that it could be easily...
Posted January 17, 2011
So that it could be easily broken down for moving, I used the 4" version of these connectors in lieu of mortise and tenon joints to connect the front and rear aprons to the leg assemblies of an Arts and Crafts style library table. I found that the male & female halves of the connector would not fit together without first grinding down the tops of the screw heads so they could pass each other as the two pieces are slid together. I was using #8 square drive pan head screws. I also had to reduce the diameter of the head of the screw in the bottom hole of the male part and shorten the same by @ 1/4" so it would not hit the head of the bottom screw securing the female part. Would not have had this problem if the two mating pieces were each @ 1/16th of an inch deeper, or the parts were a little wider and the holes chamfered like a hinge to accept wood screws.
I used the tapered connector in...
Posted August 7, 2009
I used the tapered connector in an unusual way. I recently constructed a built-in corner sitting area for a breakfast nook. After using the seat for a few months I noticed it would tilt forward if several people were sitting on it at the same time. The connector allowed me to attach the upper back of the seat to the wall in a non permanent yet secure way that solved teh tipping problem. I also bought the 4" connectors and plan to use those for some heavy mirror connections.