Overview
Concentrated dye solution makes it easy to apply beautiful color to your project. Mix with water for an economical, non-flammable stain or with alcohol/ lacquer thinner for a fast drying, non-grain raising stain. For use as a finish toner, simply add the dye concentrate to shellac, water-base finishes, solvent lacquers, and catalyzed varnish or lacquers.
Features:
- All colors are intermixable to produce custom shades
- Ideal for tinting woodworking glues, touch up and repair work, and adjusting the color of pre-mixed stains
Important Notes
- Shipping Restrictions: Ground Transportation Only to addresses within the continental United States.
What's included
(1) 2.0 oz bottle of TransTint® Dye
Technical Details
- Not for exterior use
- Brand: Transtint
- Size: 2 oz
Technical Downloads
- TransTint Datasheet
- TransTint Dye - Coffee Brown SDS
- TransTint Dye - Amber MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Black MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Blue MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Bordeaux MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Bright Red MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Brown Mahogany MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Cordovan MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Dark Mission Brown MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Dark Vintage Maple MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Dark Walnut SDS
- TransTint Dye - Golden Brown MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Green MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Honey Amber MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Lemon Yellow MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Medium Brown MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Orange MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Purple MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Red Mahogany MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Reddish Brown MSDS
Related Articles
Questions and Answers
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Browse 38 questions
Browse 38 questions
and 145 answers
How do I add this to epoxy? Should it be thinned? If so, by what?
BEST ANSWER: TransTint, being a dye, can be thinned with water, denatured alcohol or whatever is compatible with your next coat. So... if you are adding this to epoxy, it doesn't need to be thinned at all, but depending on what color you are looking for, you may only need a a single drop or two.
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- Bill L on May 7, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
Are these dyes food safe? I'm looking for dyes to use on chopping blocks/cutting boards.
BEST ANSWER: No.
As per their website: homesteadfinishingproducts . com
'Are dyes toxic?
The dyes we sell are not poisonous, but some are harmful if they are swallowed or ingested. Refer to the MSDS for each individual dye here.
Due to current regulations, TransTint and TransFast dyes are not suitable for food preparation surfaces, toys or infant furniture for children under the age of 12.'
Distilled from various sources:
Bob Flexner's 'Understanding Wood Finish' book, indicates that a 'finish' will be food safe after it's completely cured.
and this same applies to stains...once cured, they are also "safe". This is assuming they are oil-based stains that cure. Dyes and stains that are water or alcohol soluble could potentially bleed as they will re-dissolve when they come in contact with their reducer.'
and... 'Aniline dyes are food safe once they are dry. If used on a vessel or piece that will be used to serve food the recommendation is to put a clear coat of finish over the dye. Constant use will cause scratches and some wear and tear of the dye. Never put a wooden piece in the dishwasher (don’t ask me how I know this), instead wipe clean and towel dry.'
'The problem you face is that the "binder" in pigment stains that are intended to hold the insoluble pigment in place are insufficient to hold that pigment in place unless a film forming topcoat is applied. Such topcoats are incompatible with cutting.'
I believe that if you use any kind of colorant, it will not last long on any surface used as a cutting board.
As per their website: homesteadfinishingproducts . com
'Are dyes toxic?
The dyes we sell are not poisonous, but some are harmful if they are swallowed or ingested. Refer to the MSDS for each individual dye here.
Due to current regulations, TransTint and TransFast dyes are not suitable for food preparation surfaces, toys or infant furniture for children under the age of 12.'
Distilled from various sources:
Bob Flexner's 'Understanding Wood Finish' book, indicates that a 'finish' will be food safe after it's completely cured.
and this same applies to stains...once cured, they are also "safe". This is assuming they are oil-based stains that cure. Dyes and stains that are water or alcohol soluble could potentially bleed as they will re-dissolve when they come in contact with their reducer.'
and... 'Aniline dyes are food safe once they are dry. If used on a vessel or piece that will be used to serve food the recommendation is to put a clear coat of finish over the dye. Constant use will cause scratches and some wear and tear of the dye. Never put a wooden piece in the dishwasher (don’t ask me how I know this), instead wipe clean and towel dry.'
'The problem you face is that the "binder" in pigment stains that are intended to hold the insoluble pigment in place are insufficient to hold that pigment in place unless a film forming topcoat is applied. Such topcoats are incompatible with cutting.'
I believe that if you use any kind of colorant, it will not last long on any surface used as a cutting board.
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- Bill L on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
Can I use this on outdoor furniture if I coat it with polyurethane?
BEST ANSWER: You should check with the manufacturer, but it's my understanding that wood dyes tend to fade over time with exposure to sunlight. Otherwise, there's no other reason that I know of not to use them on outdoor furniture. Also, polyurethane on outdoor furniture can fail after a few years because UV radiation breaks down the wood below, which then causes the polyurethane to crack and peel.
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- Kendall H on May 29, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
What type of top coat is best for a high gloss guitar finish?
BEST ANSWER: The best top coat, in my opinion only, and I speak from having both a classical and a flamenco guitar, that a well rubbed in multi coats of lacquer will do the best. Heavy single coats should be avoided since they can alter resonance and create orange peel. If this is for an electric guitar, the field is open. Thickness does not play such a heavy influence and will only give the "looks". You could do an internet search to affirm my opinion or even call Tailor Guitars in El Cajon and see if they will divulge. Remember top do this in a very clean room and well ventilated. Lacquer can be very harmful when breathed in. Hope this helps.
Oskar
Oskar
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- Oskar K on Mar 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
best thing to use as a top(finish) coat over trans-tint ?
BEST ANSWER: It depends on what you are finishing? I assume you have used transtint to stain something wood an interesting color? After letting it dry for at least 24 hours use general finish wipe on polyurethane. Wipe this on evenly with a clean rag - the first coat will seal in the dye and you may notice some coming up on the rag. Minimum of three coats with 24 hours drying in between. Use superfine steel wool 0000 to "sand" in between the coats and after the last coat to get a silky smooth finish. This finish works well especially on furniture. Also if you want to darken or change the tint on the piece you can add a little transtint to the wipe on poly. Any oil based polyurethane with a brush would also work but not give you as nice a finish unless you could spray it. If you want any level of durability or to enhance the wood grain stay away from water based polys.
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- Michelle H on Dec 31, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 26, 2014
Can this type of dye be used as a solution for minor damages to wood furniture? For example, I have a cherry wood table that got a little banged up during my recent move - There are lighter spots where the finish was chipped off - Can I use this on those specific spots to cover up the damage?
BEST ANSWER: Sounds like you are willing to go with the "Old English" approach. You would not be happy if you tried to use this product straight out of the bottle for spot coverage -- it is way too concentrated. But, if you want to experiment; try putting a drop or two in a small amount of denatured alcohol (say a tablespoon) and dabbing it on with a pointed stick or a q-tip (have a paper towel handy to catch any extra that tries to run down the surface). If you like the color match, you have at least removed most of the visual impact of the chip. The next proper step would be to seal it in with a clear finish. BTW, I would advise against using Old English, ever.
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- Joseph F on Jun 23, 2015
- Purchased on Jun 11, 2014
I want to use a tung oil final finish, can the dye be uses to tone the wood and would water based or alcohol based be recommended?
BEST ANSWER: You can use either water or alcohol. Keep in mind that in general, water will raise the grain of the wood more than alcohol, so using water as the base will require more finish sanding. The amount of grain raising will depend on the wood species. Alcohol as a base will raise the grain less, but you will have a shorter working time...as soon as the alcohol evaporates, you won't really be able to work the color in smoothly, so it can be blotchy. The dye itself tends to be very dark, so it won't take much dye to base to start getting some color into the wood. Try a small amount with both water and alcohol and see which one will work best for you. Water = more finishing work after, but a better chance for more even coloring. Alcohol = less finishing, but much shorter working time if you're not used to the drying time of the alcohol.
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- STEVE F on Jan 6, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
Should I seal before adding oil based stain or should I put stain directly on top of the water based dye ?
BEST ANSWER: Chris: I would not put oil based stains over water based aniline dyes with or without a sealer. The end result will look muddy. A primary reason to use dyes is to preserve the transparency of the wood grain. If the reason for adding an oil based pigment stain (someone on one of the chat sites called these a dirty brown lie) as a top glaze, is to darken or shift the color tone, I would simply add additional coats of the dye, or use a different color dye to achieve the look you want. Highly recommend the color wheel approach in Jeff Jewitt's two books offered by Taunton Press. Jeff owns Homestead Finishing by the way.
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- Randall O on Oct 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
Can you put TransTint dyes in a NSK airbrush? Do you need to dilute it first? If so, what is the dilution ratio?
BEST ANSWER: Airbrush application depends on what you want to paint. Transtint is a concentrate and must always be diluted. Choose a medium suited to what you want to paint. Water or acrylic medium for paper, 2d art, lacquer, alcohol, or varnish for wood, enamel or epoxy mixes for china. The dilution ratio depends on what color is desired. Also, multiple coats can change the color or "depth" of the look. A few coats of colored lacquer or varnish dyed with the Transtint gives an effect af looking more deeply into the piece. An old Dutch Masters trick called glazing, also used in oil painting and antique furniture restoration and reproduction. Color results also depend on how deeply Transtint colors different mediums different ways. Do not mix in the airbrush's container but a separate one which you add to the container attached to the nozzle. Less is more. Add a tiny bit, spray or brush apply to a sample, adjust with more Transtint as needed, drop by drop, or less.
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- Kim N on Oct 3, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
I ordered and received transtint dye Red Mahogany. I mixed it with water and tested it on a piece of wood. It was not as red as I wanted. The color chart appeared to have more red than I got on my test piece. I was going to order the deeper red and try this. I will try this alone and mixed with the red mahogany. Any suggestions on how to mix this dye to get the desired color and brightness I want?
BEST ANSWER: The intensity and depth of color when using transtint dyes depends on the proportion of dye to solvent (water, shellac, or whatever you're using) in the solution. To get the color intensity as shown on the color charts, the ratio is one ounce of dye to one quart of solvent. What I've found helpful is to add the dye to a smaller amount of solvent. To get the color intensity I want, I add one ounce of dye to one-half quart of Bullseye clear shellac. I then try the mix and add more shellac to adjust if needed. Keep in mind that the color will look different on various species of wood.
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- STEVE F on May 11, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
Does it penetrate the wood so it can be sanded down or planed and still retain color?
BEST ANSWER: OK--dye only sinks so far into the wood, plus it depends on if the wood is porous, hard, soft, etc. If you are careful, you CAN make amazing effects removing some wood after dying . Don't ecpect to plane or sand off 1/4 inch and have the dye be just as applied to the surface. For all over even color, best to dye AFTER all sanding and shaping is done. Effects: dye, then sand the higher areas of the dyed piece to create lighter contrasting wear patterns or lighter areas in a design: lower bits stay darker. Like the knobby bits on a candlestick or carving. Raised grain on weathered wood (driftwood, weathered wood, etc.) can be sanded down after dying for a magical super show of grain on the wood. Great for unique trim, a picture or mirror frame, or rustic furniture. Remember to seal the wood after you're done.
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- Kim N on Apr 27, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
Can the dyes be used on children's furniture if top coated with polyurethane?
Are these dyes food safe? I'm looking for dyes to use on chopping blocks/cutting boards.
BEST ANSWER: I don't use TransTint in that manner. I use it to color resins and epoxies. My own feeling is NO. There are CAUTION and WARNING statements on the back label, with reference to State of Calif. known hazards. Best bet would be to get the Mfgr's Safety Data Sheet and data from the company's website.
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- Ken H on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Jul 6, 2015
Can this be mixed into prepared 3# cut shellac (Rockler, garnet shellac kit) to deepen the color (from more orange to more brown)? I am trying to get new red oak trim in a renovated kitchen to match the trim in the older parts of the house (shellac on red oak, ca. 1890).
BEST ANSWER: yes you can use with a three pound cut. but I get better results mixing it with alcohol and putting the shellac over it. it mixes well with water but tends to make the fibers stand up requiring sanding before applying shellac.
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- jerry p on Oct 3, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
I need to get my maple to a darker tone. Do I need wood conditioner such as benite before I apply dye, stain and finally, a clear coat?
BEST ANSWER: Benite (the conditioner I use) or any other wood conditioner is designed to allow a stain to soak in evenly. It does this by filling in the wood pores with something akin to a sealer. Then when a stain is applied, it doesn't soak in as deeply. As an example, Maple will have a tendency to become splotchy when staining, the conditioner would be used to prevent that.
In general, you will find that Maple doesn't absorb much stain, and applying a lot will make the color look 'grainy'.
In a professional setting, I believe they would seal the wood (w/Shellac) and then spray the dye onto the surface so that a smooth even coat is applied. (This doesn't really work by hand... I've tried.)
So the final answer is: a conditioner would be wise, but a dye may not be what you really want...
You may have better luck sealing the wood w/Shellac Sanding Sealer then use a gel stain which isn't so much about soaking into the wood but laying the color on the surface. And then applying several coats.
As always... experiment.
In general, you will find that Maple doesn't absorb much stain, and applying a lot will make the color look 'grainy'.
In a professional setting, I believe they would seal the wood (w/Shellac) and then spray the dye onto the surface so that a smooth even coat is applied. (This doesn't really work by hand... I've tried.)
So the final answer is: a conditioner would be wise, but a dye may not be what you really want...
You may have better luck sealing the wood w/Shellac Sanding Sealer then use a gel stain which isn't so much about soaking into the wood but laying the color on the surface. And then applying several coats.
As always... experiment.
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- Bill L on Aug 11, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
can I use this product with a spray gun?
BEST ANSWER: I can't think of a reason why not. I added some to sanding sealer I sprayed. But depending on how porous the wood you're dying, you might get better control of color saturation with a rag because you can go over spots where denser grain absorbs less.
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- william C on Jul 14, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 11, 2015
Can I add this to an oil based product? I want to use Odie's oil and the recommend tinting the product.
BEST ANSWER: You could, but I would not. -- Any coloring/staining should happen before you apply your finish. This helps in applying an even color and protects the color from rubbing off...
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- Bill L on Jun 27, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
Can this be used with a 2-part epoxy crack filler? If so, in what ratio?
BEST ANSWER: It took just a drop or two in epoxy to color the epoxy (West Systems) very black. Mix epoxy for a minute first and than add the tint. No thinning of tint necessary.
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- Joseph J on Nov 1, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 5, 2015
Can I use this product over 1coat of oil base stain that is showing too much grain?
BEST ANSWER: OK--"too much grain?" dyes are ground too fine to occlude the grain. Just top coat with gel stain (larger pigment particles) which will hide grain a bit. This is an oil based product and can go over another stain, tint or varnish. Alternately, you CAN use a transtint dye right on top of another stain or varnish and it will stain right through the finish. You can darken a lighter finish this way, if that's what you mean by "too much".
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- Kim N on Jan 20, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
Can this be added to water-based varnishes to mimic the warm color tone that oil-based varnishes give wood?
BEST ANSWER: Try experimenting on a small quantity of product by reducing the dye with water and add to a sample of the water based varnish. Your best bet is to use the dye as described on the label, apply it to unfinished wood, then seal it with Arm-R-Seal or unwaxed shellac then, clear coat. I would suggest applying General Finishes Java gel stain over the sealed dye and wipe off, that will give you the warm tones to the wood like oil based varnish sometimes gives. A great deal depends on the wood
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- Vincent D on Jun 3, 2015
- Purchased on Sep 16, 2014
Can I add this to polyurethane to color maple blue, red, or green?
BEST ANSWER: This Question » Yes, you can but you shouldn't . The best way to get the full rich tint of those dyes is to add them to de-natured alcohol (i.e. not "rubbing " alcohol) or water. I like alcohol because it doesn't raise the grain. Apply with a decent sponge brush or a small rag lightly wetted by the dye but not drippy. . Keep a wet leading edge to avoid streaks and wipe drips and spots as you go with a paper towel. Not wearing gloves will leave your hands tinted for a very long time. Let dry overnight, or a least 6 hours even though things may seem dry. You may re-dye the object again if you'd like a more vivid tint. If you add the dye to the finish, the poly. you mentioned, what you are doing is creating a light glaze which will not color the wood deeply. You will have to apply coat after coat to get anything like a deep color and not have very good control over the staining process, plus, you may get lap marks in the finish color which are unsightly. Especially on maple, which is hard to stain. I can tell you want to get a rich tone because of the colors you chose. That's why the Transtint in alcohol is great for staining maple--it works when nothing else will--regular stains just stay on the top, which may be why you are trying to put the Transtint in the poly finish. You are in for a real treat--surprise--something which will color a hard wood with deep rich color. Also, try the dye, then use a stain over it for a nifty effect. Possibly a gel stain. Don't use "hardware store" gel stain--Rockler has heavily pigmented lovely gel stains they sell and accept no substitutes or you will be disappointed.
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- Kim N on Apr 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
Hey all,
I plan on tinting a water based polyurethane. I want to end up with a ginger ale color. Anyone know what colors I would need to create a ginger ale or champagne color? Thanks!
I plan on tinting a water based polyurethane. I want to end up with a ginger ale color. Anyone know what colors I would need to create a ginger ale or champagne color? Thanks!
BEST ANSWER: To be honest, I don't think anyone will be able to answer your question. Since your tinted finish is transparent, the final color that you get is a combination of the tinted film coat plus the color of the wood you're coating. You'll have to experiment with different concentrations and mixtures of dye such as Coffee, Amber, Yellow, Golden Brown, etc., until you find what you want. A single color in the right concentration might work, or some combination of colors might be necessary. Remember, since you're planning to add the color to the finish, with each coat of finish, the color will get darker. You might try, instead, dying the wood and put an untinted coating on top.
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- Marty K on May 22, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 9, 2015
I used trans tint dye, which had been diluted with alcohol on a pine table that had been sanded with 220. I then applied zinsner seal coat with a brush. You can see the lines where it dried before I had time to keep it all wet. I tried to rub in more of the diluted dye. It only made it worse. What did I do wrong?
BEST ANSWER: Your problem was the order of operation. Next time use the a shellac seal coat before you use the dye. Another option is to add the dye to a varnish. That is my experience and it works well. With a highly figured wood Which may "spot" and "streaks" that show up after you apply the first coat the Varnish first approach can work well.
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- Julie G on Mar 3, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 4, 2015
can this be applied over clear coated white paint ?
BEST ANSWER: I don't think so, I believe that it soaks into the grain of the wood . I've only ever used it on raw wood then clear coat over
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- Jeff R on Oct 2, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 13, 2015
Is there a way to dye grain of wood only?
BEST ANSWER: Well, no. Not in the conventional sense. Grain in wood is harder than the other wood and actually absorbs the dye less. I have had luck dying very heavily weathered wood with very raised grain. Like stuff left outside too long, old fence boards, etc. Driftwoodish. Dye the entire piece or board. Then paint it. Latex best. Then sand the wood for an amazing result--the dyed wood grain is revealed, while the lower wood remains painted, if slightly distressed.
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- Kim N on Jul 28, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
I have a project that I am using a "very curly" red oak. The grain on this wood is very tight, not like typical red oak with pores exposed everywhere. Will this dye still do a good job with the tight grain?? This will be my first time using a dye. My project is 4 pieces of oak that are 5" wide and 36" long. Will I be able to use denatured alcohol on this size project or do I need to add some paint thinner to extend work time? Appreciate any input.
BEST ANSWER: I was using it on a piece I was restoring it seems to be very concentrated die but really can't answer your question as far as the red Oak goes.
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- Garold B on Mar 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
What % of dye to solvent/water etc, do you use to achieve the color on there color chart?
BEST ANSWER: 2 ounces of dye per half gallon of solvent should give you the color as shown on the chart. Keep in mind that the same mixture of dye to solvent will look different on different species of wood. Also, grain pattern and coloring will make the same mixture look different...sometimes on a single piece of wood. Good luck!
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- STEVE F on Feb 16, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
am trying to match up knotty pine that has yellowed clear coat?
BEST ANSWER: The Lemon Yellow TransTint dye might work. Do you know what the finish is on the wood you're trying to match? TransTint dyes are not compatible with all finish coatings. Also, keep in mind that oxidized unfinished pine will naturally yellow. If it is then coated with a finish like clear shellac, it will have a bright yellow color that may be difficult to match with a dyed coating. The best result might come by adding a small amount of the Lemon Yelloe dye to a quart can of clear shellac. Do this a few drops at a time, mix, then apply to a test piece for color match. If too light, add a couple more drops of dye, mix, and test again. Good luck.
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- STEVE F on Jan 10, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
What is the shelf life of these dyes mixed with denatured alcohol an stored in mason jars?
BEST ANSWER: Well, it's not recommended for storage, but I store it in glass bottles, either mixed with alcohol or as a tint in lacquer. Mason jars are a little leaky, air-wise, but you can put a layer or two of plastic wrap between the jar and the lid if you have to. I've personally had it last months this way. You can always add some more alcohol to thin it down.
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- Kim N on Jan 20, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
is this environment friendly?
BEST ANSWER: The dye mixes with water, but I would not consider the product environmentally friendly. The MSDS lists it as a moderate health hazard.
You wouldn't have a Chernobyl if you emptied it on your lawn, but it certainly wouldn't be doing anything good for the Earth.
You wouldn't have a Chernobyl if you emptied it on your lawn, but it certainly wouldn't be doing anything good for the Earth.
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- Mark M on Jan 5, 2016
- Purchased on Oct 19, 2015
Reviews
4.7 / 5.0
85 Reviews
This is the magic weapon of coloring wood and other materials. I vastly prefer it mixed with alcohol rather than water. It is a bit spendy, but a tiny bit goes a very long way. You can under-dye a stain with it to get colors of antique furniture just right. Keep a wet leading edge to avoid streaks. Use a little rag, rather than a brush to get perfect results. The color is so much deeper and lush than other types of coloring. I like to use it as an undercoat with gel stain on top of it for a deep rich color. You can get the reds and deep browns of some antique furniture or cabinetry. with the tint that you will never get with just a stain alone. Dye has smaller particles than stain or paint--which makes the color go deep into the wood. You can use more coats after each dries to get deeper color. I haven't tried any of their colors I haven't loved. Transtint saves time and work on professional jobs and may be added to other commercial stains to adjust the color right in the can before application.
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Potent and Flexible
I recently purchased this product and tested with both water and lacquer. The results were far better than expected. Up front, the price seemed to be cost prohibitive. However, only 3 drops of black dye in a test sample of 300ml turned my clear batch of lacquer into black paint. This stuff is powerful. 1 drop in 100ml of water turned the sample nearly opaque, but only made a subtle change in color on the wooden stir-stick. Nevertheless, it's clear this product is cross compatible with solvent and water based products. I expect to make a few more tests to get the right ratio and tint my lacquer to get the transparent effect I'm after without needing the whole bottle. Don't let the price turn you away. For tinting and similar effects, the small bottle goes a long way.
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February 21, 2014
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Needs a better dispenser
I got the black, and it was too dark, and then I got the Walnut, and I could not tell the difference. The product is very good, and it is very concentrated.(Very concentrated)
The bottle needs to be improved. Maybe change to a more needle or long pointed dispensing top. (Could be me )
but I could find no way to not get it on me.
I used it on dyeing knot filler. One drop is all I needed. That is hard to do too, with the dispenser....end. I was successful 7 out of 10
So you have to be careful when opening and dispensing.
You have to use gloves, it will get on your hands, opening.
Product is what it is advertised. A firm and good dye.
The bottle needs to be improved. Maybe change to a more needle or long pointed dispensing top. (Could be me )
but I could find no way to not get it on me.
I used it on dyeing knot filler. One drop is all I needed. That is hard to do too, with the dispenser....end. I was successful 7 out of 10
So you have to be careful when opening and dispensing.
You have to use gloves, it will get on your hands, opening.
Product is what it is advertised. A firm and good dye.
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Expensive but nice
I use dye for matching repaired or new pieces of furniture that have to match existing pieces. The nice thing about dye is that the color of the end grain and long grain are the same with a dye This stuff makes mixing easy, which I typically do in a plastic, one-gallon milk container. I use alcohol for the medium and a Binks 2001 gun for final application. An acid brush on a wood sample works well for getting the color close, but I use a touch-up sprayer for the final or near final test of the color, followed, of course, by the finish, typically water-white lacquer for me, to make sure the color is right. Four colors allow me to match anything: Lemon Yellow, Bright Red, Blue, and Black. Takes practice, of course, to get the hang of matching, but the result is nice. Moreover, you can change the color after application by re-shooting with changed dye ratios or, as I have sometimes done, using a rag dampened with the needed adjustment and rubbing out the piece. It's nice.
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Great Product If You Are A Chemist
If you have a small project that doesn't need to match another finish, this is a great product. If, on the other hand have a large project like 15 stairs plus banister bases, it is very difficult to match between batches. I was never able to match the original color and ended up wastig an entire bottle.
Tips: 1: Poke a small hole inthe tip (do not cut the tip off).
2: Make small batches to test on the exact wood and exact sanding until you get the exact formula (and log each batch with the mix ratio), then mix the large batch using scaled measurements.
3: Keep the logs in case you need to repair or replace an original finished piece.
4: It is very messy and will ruin any clothes and won't come off of your hands easily.
5: If you are mixing it with a finish (urethane), your last 1-2 coats should not contain any dye, otherwise it will come off when wiped or mopped or gets wet.
Tips: 1: Poke a small hole inthe tip (do not cut the tip off).
2: Make small batches to test on the exact wood and exact sanding until you get the exact formula (and log each batch with the mix ratio), then mix the large batch using scaled measurements.
3: Keep the logs in case you need to repair or replace an original finished piece.
4: It is very messy and will ruin any clothes and won't come off of your hands easily.
5: If you are mixing it with a finish (urethane), your last 1-2 coats should not contain any dye, otherwise it will come off when wiped or mopped or gets wet.
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Great product but!
The dye is great but the bottle is the messiest I have ever seen! I have not been able to use it without getting it all over the side of the bottle. The tip no matter what I do has product running down the side after every use.
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Wonderful product.
I keep about 12 different colors on hand, mix them up in denatured alcohol, and have been able to match everything I need to. The advantage over pigment stains is that you can add color on top if what you already did, up to a point. This formulation is more colorfast than the old aniline dyes too, which is a big advantage. Just remember to do your work under daylight light bulbs.
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Works great on maple
Used on maple hardwood flooring, works much better that stain.
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Love to use die stain , it really brings out the figures in the wood.
I love to use die stain on figured wood, it makes it pop.
Added Apr 1, 2016
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TransTint Dyes
I like the dyes very much. To get a consistent mix, I use an eye dropper and a milliliter beaker. Dye never gets where it doesn't belong and is absolutely the same each time; I never puncture the top. I've used it with water only, so far. Start-stop marks disappear immediately with a second wiping. Have not used denatured alcohol yet. It dries faster and lines may show more. It is useful when coloring wood grain filler as it doesn't make it much thinner, which when mixed with stain to color thins it more and it fills the grain less completely. I wet wood and sand down grain; have had no problems raising grain again when applying dyes. Colors are nice and it's easy to use. I recommend these dyes
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