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- Wood Stain /
- TransTint® Dyes
Overview
Concentrated dye solution makes it easy to apply beautiful color to your project. Mix with water for an economical, non-flammable stain or with alcohol/ lacquer thinner for a fast drying, non-grain raising stain. For use as a finish toner, simply add the dye concentrate to shellac, water-base finishes, solvent lacquers, and catalyzed varnish or lacquers.
Features:
- All colors are intermixable to produce custom shades
- Ideal for tinting woodworking glues, touch up and repair work, and adjusting the color of pre-mixed stains
Important Notes
- Shipping Restrictions: Ground Transportation Only to addresses within the continental United States.
What's included
(1) 2.0 oz bottle of TransTint® Dye
Technical Details
- Not for exterior use
- Brand: Transtint
- Size: 2 oz
Technical Downloads
- TransTint Datasheet
- TransTint Dye - Coffee Brown SDS
- TransTint Dye - Amber MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Black MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Blue MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Bordeaux MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Bright Red MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Brown Mahogany MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Cordovan MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Dark Mission Brown MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Dark Vintage Maple MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Dark Walnut SDS
- TransTint Dye - Golden Brown MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Green MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Honey Amber MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Lemon Yellow MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Medium Brown MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Orange MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Purple MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Red Mahogany MSDS
- TransTint Dye - Reddish Brown MSDS
Related Articles
- How to Use Wood Stains, Pigments, Dyes and Toners to Evenly Stain Wood
- UGL Zar ULTRA MAX Wood Stain Adds Oil-Based Color to Water-Based Drying
- Altering Wood Stain with Toner, Glaze and Clear Finishing Products
- Wood Stain in a Nutshell
- Using Wood Stain and Dye Finishing Products to Add Coloration to Furniture
Frequently Bought Together
Questions and Answers
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If your question is about more than one item, click + to add them.

Browse 39 questions
Browse 39 questions
and 146 answers
Why did you choose this?
Rockler Store
Used this brand before. Works very well. Needed some black.--Andy K
harold k
on Apr 21, 2018
To Dye wood
Kenneth S
on Apr 5, 2018
Mission furniture project
Bruce a
on Mar 26, 2018
Ive used transtint dyes in the past. They are vibrant while letting the grain pattern shine through. Makes for a beautiful combination
Bradley P
on Mar 20, 2018
I want to enhance the grain without coloring the wood.
Darryl W
on Mar 18, 2018
I saw this item being used on YouTube.
Robert N. E
on Feb 24, 2018
To dye a guitar project I'm working on.
Dante Z
on Jan 24, 2018
for a project and aaron cain suggested it so i followed his suggestion
Carson H
on Jan 10, 2018
Because the project I'm working on needs that particular color, and stain doesn't work very well on curly maple.
Peter K
on Dec 12, 2017
I have a project that needs green....simple
Chris U
on Nov 22, 2017
I want to be able to mix with Shellac for accent pieces on projects
HEIDI A
on Nov 9, 2017
Recommended !
Steve S
on Nov 7, 2017
Use this item to finish bracelets with. Works well with poly.
Tom E
on Oct 11, 2017
Recommended by a friend
Jeff & Meredith K
on Sep 7, 2017
Trying to match some antique furniture.
Eric C. K
on Aug 25, 2017
This seems to be well-regarded for tinting shellac.
TIMOTHY H
on Aug 5, 2017
Working with hard maple
Steven T
on Jul 29, 2017
To tint some water based poly.
M K
on Jul 20, 2017
Looking to try on wood for bright color display.
GEORGE M
on Jul 11, 2017
I have used these dyes previously and I think they are the best dye for use on tiger/figured/quilted maple
Brian D
on Apr 30, 2017
recommended by pros
kenneth k
on Apr 5, 2017
bookcase
A L
on Mar 19, 2017
Have used these dyes before. They work well
Pete H
on Mar 12, 2017
Previously used. Great product.
Rich in Texas
on Feb 27, 2017
trying to color metal
Pat Q
on Feb 23, 2017
Used this brand before. Works very well. Needed some black.--Andy K
harold k
on Apr 21, 2018
Wood Whisperer Mark Spagnola recommended on his youtube channel.
Nicholas K
on Apr 11, 2018
To Dye wood
Kenneth S
on Apr 5, 2018
Great Product - use regularly
Gregory B
on Mar 29, 2018
Mission furniture project
Bruce a
on Mar 26, 2018
Color I needed
Bret M
on Mar 21, 2018
Ive used transtint dyes in the past. They are vibrant while letting the grain pattern shine through. Makes for a beautiful combination
Bradley P
on Mar 20, 2018
quality and mixes with different types of finishes
Michael W
on Mar 19, 2018
I want to enhance the grain without coloring the wood.
Darryl W
on Mar 18, 2018
Par a finishing article for oak furniture in Fine Woodworking.
Michael J. M
on Mar 6, 2018
I saw this item being used on YouTube.
Robert N. E
on Feb 24, 2018
Using this for a curly maple bench I am building in our mudroom
Cameron G
on Feb 19, 2018
To dye a guitar project I'm working on.
Dante Z
on Jan 24, 2018
Great dye for stringed instruments
Bryan P
on Jan 22, 2018
for a project and aaron cain suggested it so i followed his suggestion
Carson H
on Jan 10, 2018
Hoping to be able to get some colour into some hard maple.
Kevin K
on Dec 31, 2017
Because the project I'm working on needs that particular color, and stain doesn't work very well on curly maple.
Peter K
on Dec 12, 2017
Try something new for my projects
Rick F
on Dec 8, 2017
I have a project that needs green....simple
Chris U
on Nov 22, 2017
Great vibrant colors
Chris U
on Nov 9, 2017
I want to be able to mix with Shellac for accent pieces on projects
HEIDI A
on Nov 9, 2017
im staining a guitar most of the videos i have watched on you tube they are using these tints and i love the colors that show up after tinting and finishing with tru oil awesome finish i cant say enough about this product except buy some and try it you wont be let down
douglas h
on Nov 8, 2017
Recommended !
Steve S
on Nov 7, 2017
Desperate
John B
on Oct 25, 2017
Use this item to finish bracelets with. Works well with poly.
Tom E
on Oct 11, 2017
no problems with this product, because it is soluble on any finish you want to use>
Saul B
on Sep 28, 2017
Recommended by a friend
Jeff & Meredith K
on Sep 7, 2017
Use these dye tints for years. Excellent product
Diane S
on Aug 27, 2017
Trying to match some antique furniture.
Eric C. K
on Aug 25, 2017
First time buyer of this product. The reviews were very good so i decided to give it a try on the current project that i am working on.
Harry
on Aug 13, 2017
This seems to be well-regarded for tinting shellac.
TIMOTHY H
on Aug 5, 2017
These dye stains actually work. True to color every time.
Todd S
on Jul 30, 2017
Working with hard maple
Steven T
on Jul 29, 2017
MY SISTER USED A DYE AND RECOMMENDED THEM
brian w
on Jul 27, 2017
To tint some water based poly.
M K
on Jul 20, 2017
dye epoxy
Robert C
on Jul 14, 2017
Looking to try on wood for bright color display.
GEORGE M
on Jul 11, 2017
never used it, want to try it
sean w
on Jun 1, 2017
I have used these dyes previously and I think they are the best dye for use on tiger/figured/quilted maple
Brian D
on Apr 30, 2017
Quality product easy to use good results
hernry r
on Apr 19, 2017
recommended by pros
kenneth k
on Apr 5, 2017
From an article from Popular Woodworking
Hugh B
on Apr 3, 2017
bookcase
A L
on Mar 19, 2017
Best stuff to match 18th century finishes with shellacs or spirit varnishes
Mark S
on Mar 16, 2017
Have used these dyes before. They work well
Pete H
on Mar 12, 2017
Because it is the color of dye I wanted for my wood project.
Melissa W. M
on Mar 3, 2017
Previously used. Great product.
Rich in Texas
on Feb 27, 2017
Great dye and very versatile
Bryan M
on Feb 26, 2017
trying to color metal
Pat Q
on Feb 23, 2017
I wanted to try making my own stains. Used this product to color shellac. Works great.
Joseph C
on Feb 14, 2017
Wood Whisperer Mark Spagnola recommended on his youtube channel.
Nicholas K
on Apr 11, 2018
Great Product - use regularly
Gregory B
on Mar 29, 2018
Color I needed
Bret M
on Mar 21, 2018
quality and mixes with different types of finishes
Michael W
on Mar 19, 2018
Par a finishing article for oak furniture in Fine Woodworking.
Michael J. M
on Mar 6, 2018
Using this for a curly maple bench I am building in our mudroom
Cameron G
on Feb 19, 2018
Great dye for stringed instruments
Bryan P
on Jan 22, 2018
Hoping to be able to get some colour into some hard maple.
Kevin K
on Dec 31, 2017
Try something new for my projects
Rick F
on Dec 8, 2017
Great vibrant colors
Chris U
on Nov 9, 2017
im staining a guitar most of the videos i have watched on you tube they are using these tints and i love the colors that show up after tinting and finishing with tru oil awesome finish i cant say enough about this product except buy some and try it you wont be let down
douglas h
on Nov 8, 2017
Desperate
John B
on Oct 25, 2017
no problems with this product, because it is soluble on any finish you want to use>
Saul B
on Sep 28, 2017
Use these dye tints for years. Excellent product
Diane S
on Aug 27, 2017
First time buyer of this product. The reviews were very good so i decided to give it a try on the current project that i am working on.
Harry
on Aug 13, 2017
These dye stains actually work. True to color every time.
Todd S
on Jul 30, 2017
MY SISTER USED A DYE AND RECOMMENDED THEM
brian w
on Jul 27, 2017
dye epoxy
Robert C
on Jul 14, 2017
never used it, want to try it
sean w
on Jun 1, 2017
Quality product easy to use good results
hernry r
on Apr 19, 2017
From an article from Popular Woodworking
Hugh B
on Apr 3, 2017
Best stuff to match 18th century finishes with shellacs or spirit varnishes
Mark S
on Mar 16, 2017
Because it is the color of dye I wanted for my wood project.
Melissa W. M
on Mar 3, 2017
Great dye and very versatile
Bryan M
on Feb 26, 2017
I wanted to try making my own stains. Used this product to color shellac. Works great.
Joseph C
on Feb 14, 2017
How do I add this to epoxy? Should it be thinned? If so, by what?
A shopper
on May 7, 2015
BEST ANSWER: TransTint, being a dye, can be thinned with water, denatured alcohol or whatever is compatible with your next coat. So... if you are adding this to epoxy, it doesn't need to be thinned at all, but depending on what color you are looking for, you may only need a a single drop or two.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Bill L on May 7, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
BEST ANSWER: TransTint, being a dye, can be thinned with water, denatured alcohol or whatever is compatible with your next coat. So... if you are adding this to epoxy, it doesn't need to be thinned at all, but depending on what color you are looking for, you may only need a a single drop or two.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Bill L on May 7, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
You can add it directly to epoxy or any other finish you want. It's really versatile.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- NOEL K on May 7, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 31, 2015
No thinning necessary. Just a drop or two and you're set.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Joseph J on Nov 1, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 5, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Are these dyes food safe? I'm looking for dyes to use on chopping blocks/cutting boards.
bleuviper2
on Nov 4, 2015
BEST ANSWER: No.
As per their website: homesteadfinishingproducts . com
'Are dyes toxic?
The dyes we sell are not poisonous, but some are harmful if they are swallowed or ingested. Refer to the MSDS for each individual dye here.
Due to current regulations, TransTint and TransFast dyes are not suitable for food preparation surfaces, toys or infant furniture for children under the age of 12.'
Distilled from various sources:
Bob Flexner's 'Understanding Wood Finish' book, indicates that a 'finish' will be food safe after it's completely cured.
and this same applies to stains...once cured, they are also "safe". This is assuming they are oil-based stains that cure. Dyes and stains that are water or alcohol soluble could potentially bleed as they will re-dissolve when they come in contact with their reducer.'
and... 'Aniline dyes are food safe once they are dry. If used on a vessel or piece that will be used to serve food the recommendation is to put a clear coat of finish over the dye. Constant use will cause scratches and some wear and tear of the dye. Never put a wooden piece in the dishwasher (don’t ask me how I know this), instead wipe clean and towel dry.'
'The problem you face is that the "binder" in pigment stains that are intended to hold the insoluble pigment in place are insufficient to hold that pigment in place unless a film forming topcoat is applied. Such topcoats are incompatible with cutting.'
I believe that if you use any kind of colorant, it will not last long on any surface used as a cutting board.
As per their website: homesteadfinishingproducts . com
'Are dyes toxic?
The dyes we sell are not poisonous, but some are harmful if they are swallowed or ingested. Refer to the MSDS for each individual dye here.
Due to current regulations, TransTint and TransFast dyes are not suitable for food preparation surfaces, toys or infant furniture for children under the age of 12.'
Distilled from various sources:
Bob Flexner's 'Understanding Wood Finish' book, indicates that a 'finish' will be food safe after it's completely cured.
and this same applies to stains...once cured, they are also "safe". This is assuming they are oil-based stains that cure. Dyes and stains that are water or alcohol soluble could potentially bleed as they will re-dissolve when they come in contact with their reducer.'
and... 'Aniline dyes are food safe once they are dry. If used on a vessel or piece that will be used to serve food the recommendation is to put a clear coat of finish over the dye. Constant use will cause scratches and some wear and tear of the dye. Never put a wooden piece in the dishwasher (don’t ask me how I know this), instead wipe clean and towel dry.'
'The problem you face is that the "binder" in pigment stains that are intended to hold the insoluble pigment in place are insufficient to hold that pigment in place unless a film forming topcoat is applied. Such topcoats are incompatible with cutting.'
I believe that if you use any kind of colorant, it will not last long on any surface used as a cutting board.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Bill L on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
BEST ANSWER: No.
As per their website: homesteadfinishingproducts . com
'Are dyes toxic?
The dyes we sell are not poisonous, but some are harmful if they are swallowed or ingested. Refer to the MSDS for each individual dye here.
Due to current regulations, TransTint and TransFast dyes are not suitable for food preparation surfaces, toys or infant furniture for children under the age of 12.'
Distilled from various sources:
Bob Flexner's 'Understanding Wood Finish' book, indicates that a 'finish' will be food safe after it's completely cured.
and this same applies to stains...once cured, they are also "safe". This is assuming they are oil-based stains that cure. Dyes and stains that are water or alcohol soluble could potentially bleed as they will re-dissolve when they come in contact with their reducer.'
and... 'Aniline dyes are food safe once they are dry. If used on a vessel or piece that will be used to serve food the recommendation is to put a clear coat of finish over the dye. Constant use will cause scratches and some wear and tear of the dye. Never put a wooden piece in the dishwasher (don’t ask me how I know this), instead wipe clean and towel dry.'
'The problem you face is that the "binder" in pigment stains that are intended to hold the insoluble pigment in place are insufficient to hold that pigment in place unless a film forming topcoat is applied. Such topcoats are incompatible with cutting.'
I believe that if you use any kind of colorant, it will not last long on any surface used as a cutting board.
As per their website: homesteadfinishingproducts . com
'Are dyes toxic?
The dyes we sell are not poisonous, but some are harmful if they are swallowed or ingested. Refer to the MSDS for each individual dye here.
Due to current regulations, TransTint and TransFast dyes are not suitable for food preparation surfaces, toys or infant furniture for children under the age of 12.'
Distilled from various sources:
Bob Flexner's 'Understanding Wood Finish' book, indicates that a 'finish' will be food safe after it's completely cured.
and this same applies to stains...once cured, they are also "safe". This is assuming they are oil-based stains that cure. Dyes and stains that are water or alcohol soluble could potentially bleed as they will re-dissolve when they come in contact with their reducer.'
and... 'Aniline dyes are food safe once they are dry. If used on a vessel or piece that will be used to serve food the recommendation is to put a clear coat of finish over the dye. Constant use will cause scratches and some wear and tear of the dye. Never put a wooden piece in the dishwasher (don’t ask me how I know this), instead wipe clean and towel dry.'
'The problem you face is that the "binder" in pigment stains that are intended to hold the insoluble pigment in place are insufficient to hold that pigment in place unless a film forming topcoat is applied. Such topcoats are incompatible with cutting.'
I believe that if you use any kind of colorant, it will not last long on any surface used as a cutting board.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Bill L on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
I do not believe they are a good solution for chopping blocks.... they are water soluble, I dusted a piece with a damp cloth recently.... ( 3 months after piece was finished) and some of the stain transferred to the cloth... the piece looks fine...... but this makes me believe this is not the right choice for what you have in mind...... I do recommend that you go to their website and ask them directly.......
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- ERIC H on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on May 9, 2014
i used the dye on salad bowls and serving trays and never Sean any color or taste to the food.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- jerry p on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
Can I use this on outdoor furniture if I coat it with polyurethane?
A shopper
on May 28, 2015
BEST ANSWER: You should check with the manufacturer, but it's my understanding that wood dyes tend to fade over time with exposure to sunlight. Otherwise, there's no other reason that I know of not to use them on outdoor furniture. Also, polyurethane on outdoor furniture can fail after a few years because UV radiation breaks down the wood below, which then causes the polyurethane to crack and peel.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Kendall H on May 29, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
BEST ANSWER: You should check with the manufacturer, but it's my understanding that wood dyes tend to fade over time with exposure to sunlight. Otherwise, there's no other reason that I know of not to use them on outdoor furniture. Also, polyurethane on outdoor furniture can fail after a few years because UV radiation breaks down the wood below, which then causes the polyurethane to crack and peel.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Kendall H on May 29, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
I would use it underneath polyurethane, however I would not leave the furniture outside all year long. Please review polyurethane versus spar varnish for exterior use.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Mark J on May 30, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 20, 2015
I bought the dye to build guitars and covered it with lacquer. If you put 3 or 4 good coats on I don't see why it would not work.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Jack R on May 31, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
Yes you can but this dye is not very uv stable . the color will fade with heavy sunlight exposure
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- darren s on May 29, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 29, 2015
You should be able to, as long as you seal it with an outdoor finish that has UV blockers
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- SEAN T on May 29, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 26, 2015
Vote for the best answer above!
What type of top coat is best for a high gloss guitar finish?
MaxRV
on Mar 24, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The best top coat, in my opinion only, and I speak from having both a classical and a flamenco guitar, that a well rubbed in multi coats of lacquer will do the best. Heavy single coats should be avoided since they can alter resonance and create orange peel. If this is for an electric guitar, the field is open. Thickness does not play such a heavy influence and will only give the "looks". You could do an internet search to affirm my opinion or even call Tailor Guitars in El Cajon and see if they will divulge. Remember top do this in a very clean room and well ventilated. Lacquer can be very harmful when breathed in. Hope this helps.
Oskar
Oskar
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Oskar K on Mar 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The best top coat, in my opinion only, and I speak from having both a classical and a flamenco guitar, that a well rubbed in multi coats of lacquer will do the best. Heavy single coats should be avoided since they can alter resonance and create orange peel. If this is for an electric guitar, the field is open. Thickness does not play such a heavy influence and will only give the "looks". You could do an internet search to affirm my opinion or even call Tailor Guitars in El Cajon and see if they will divulge. Remember top do this in a very clean room and well ventilated. Lacquer can be very harmful when breathed in. Hope this helps.
Oskar
Oskar
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Oskar K on Mar 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
Professionally manufactured guitars have been finished with shellac, lacquer, and polyurethane. It comes down to personal preference, however, lacquer finishes tend to look better longer.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- STEVE F on Mar 24, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
I used the Transtint on a jewelry box with quilted maple and finished coated it with Arm A Seal General finishes. I used four coats and it worked great. Good finish tough as nails.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- RICK B on Mar 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 15, 2015
Lacquer, 15-20 coats but first you must grain fill . I use Behlen string instrument lacquer. I hope that this helps.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- Jeff R on Mar 25, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 13, 2015
Is there a certain grain fill you like and can recommend where to purchase it?
I use Crystalac from Rockler it's water based, rub it in , let it dry , sand smooth . Repeat as needed
Vote for the best answer above!
best thing to use as a top(finish) coat over trans-tint ?
ernie
on Dec 30, 2015
BEST ANSWER: It depends on what you are finishing? I assume you have used transtint to stain something wood an interesting color? After letting it dry for at least 24 hours use general finish wipe on polyurethane. Wipe this on evenly with a clean rag - the first coat will seal in the dye and you may notice some coming up on the rag. Minimum of three coats with 24 hours drying in between. Use superfine steel wool 0000 to "sand" in between the coats and after the last coat to get a silky smooth finish. This finish works well especially on furniture. Also if you want to darken or change the tint on the piece you can add a little transtint to the wipe on poly. Any oil based polyurethane with a brush would also work but not give you as nice a finish unless you could spray it. If you want any level of durability or to enhance the wood grain stay away from water based polys.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Michelle H on Dec 31, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 26, 2014
BEST ANSWER: It depends on what you are finishing? I assume you have used transtint to stain something wood an interesting color? After letting it dry for at least 24 hours use general finish wipe on polyurethane. Wipe this on evenly with a clean rag - the first coat will seal in the dye and you may notice some coming up on the rag. Minimum of three coats with 24 hours drying in between. Use superfine steel wool 0000 to "sand" in between the coats and after the last coat to get a silky smooth finish. This finish works well especially on furniture. Also if you want to darken or change the tint on the piece you can add a little transtint to the wipe on poly. Any oil based polyurethane with a brush would also work but not give you as nice a finish unless you could spray it. If you want any level of durability or to enhance the wood grain stay away from water based polys.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Michelle H on Dec 31, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 26, 2014
I haven't had a problem with any type of topcoat I've used varnish shellac and even linseed oil and the dye doesn't seem to be effected.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- jerry p on Dec 31, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
I used
I used General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat-Gloss (wipe on formula) with excellent results.
I used General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat-Gloss (wipe on formula) with excellent results.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- Keith B on Dec 31, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 4, 2015
Shellac or Lacquer in our shop..:)
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- John S on Dec 30, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 21, 2014
Vote for the best answer above!
Can this type of dye be used as a solution for minor damages to wood furniture? For example, I have a cherry wood table that got a little banged up during my recent move - There are lighter spots where the finish was chipped off - Can I use this on those specific spots to cover up the damage?
Hailey W
on May 21, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Sounds like you are willing to go with the "Old English" approach. You would not be happy if you tried to use this product straight out of the bottle for spot coverage -- it is way too concentrated. But, if you want to experiment; try putting a drop or two in a small amount of denatured alcohol (say a tablespoon) and dabbing it on with a pointed stick or a q-tip (have a paper towel handy to catch any extra that tries to run down the surface). If you like the color match, you have at least removed most of the visual impact of the chip. The next proper step would be to seal it in with a clear finish. BTW, I would advise against using Old English, ever.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Joseph F on Jun 23, 2015
- Purchased on Jun 11, 2014
BEST ANSWER: Sounds like you are willing to go with the "Old English" approach. You would not be happy if you tried to use this product straight out of the bottle for spot coverage -- it is way too concentrated. But, if you want to experiment; try putting a drop or two in a small amount of denatured alcohol (say a tablespoon) and dabbing it on with a pointed stick or a q-tip (have a paper towel handy to catch any extra that tries to run down the surface). If you like the color match, you have at least removed most of the visual impact of the chip. The next proper step would be to seal it in with a clear finish. BTW, I would advise against using Old English, ever.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Joseph F on Jun 23, 2015
- Purchased on Jun 11, 2014
Yes. It's a great touch up solution. Remember it's VERY concentrated. Mix a drop or two with alcohol in jar or can and experiment. It is not a sealer... When you have the right shade for the touch mix it with a little de waxed shellac, which will work as the sealer and let it stick to the existing finish. When very dry, just rub out with the patch with 0000 very fine steel wool and some wax. John Steffen
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- John S on May 21, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
Thanks John. What brand of de-waxed shellac do you recommend? Also what would you say should be the ratio between the tint solution and the de-waxed shellac? As you can tell, I'm quite the novice and I really don't want to ruin my table.
Would it make more sense to restain the entire thing? Can one do that?
Would it make more sense to restain the entire thing? Can one do that?
Haley, Rockler has shellac in a can on page one, as well as the steel wool. You mix the shellac in a small food can or yogurt cup with the transtint. You only need a few or couple of drops of transtint with a cup or so of shellac. The shellac will make the transtint stick to the original finish. If you retain the entire table, you really should have the old firnish stripped off... :( it's easier to touch up. Remember it doesn't hurt to practice on the underside of a part of the table not seen.. Practice. With finishes,a little is always better than a lot...
If the table used this dye for the finish, you may be able too...... however, my experience is, this dye "bleeds" more than normal stains........ I recommend using a touch up pen, or oil pencil on small or minor damage areas.....
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- ERIC H on May 21, 2015
- Purchased on May 9, 2014
Thank you Eric. So that I know all of my options, where would I find a touch up pen or oil pencil? Does Rockler have something like that or would home depot?
no this wouldn't help you in that situation what you would want to do is to apply the type of finish that was on the original piece of wood and that would be helpful in your damaged areaEnter an answer to this question.
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- jerry p on May 22, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
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I want to use a tung oil final finish, can the dye be uses to tone the wood and would water based or alcohol based be recommended?
Danny M
on Jan 6, 2017
BEST ANSWER: You can use either water or alcohol. Keep in mind that in general, water will raise the grain of the wood more than alcohol, so using water as the base will require more finish sanding. The amount of grain raising will depend on the wood species. Alcohol as a base will raise the grain less, but you will have a shorter working time...as soon as the alcohol evaporates, you won't really be able to work the color in smoothly, so it can be blotchy. The dye itself tends to be very dark, so it won't take much dye to base to start getting some color into the wood. Try a small amount with both water and alcohol and see which one will work best for you. Water = more finishing work after, but a better chance for more even coloring. Alcohol = less finishing, but much shorter working time if you're not used to the drying time of the alcohol.
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- STEVE F on Jan 6, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: You can use either water or alcohol. Keep in mind that in general, water will raise the grain of the wood more than alcohol, so using water as the base will require more finish sanding. The amount of grain raising will depend on the wood species. Alcohol as a base will raise the grain less, but you will have a shorter working time...as soon as the alcohol evaporates, you won't really be able to work the color in smoothly, so it can be blotchy. The dye itself tends to be very dark, so it won't take much dye to base to start getting some color into the wood. Try a small amount with both water and alcohol and see which one will work best for you. Water = more finishing work after, but a better chance for more even coloring. Alcohol = less finishing, but much shorter working time if you're not used to the drying time of the alcohol.
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- STEVE F on Jan 6, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
The dye CAN be used to tone the wood. Either water or alcohol can be used, but if a water base is used, it could possibly raise the grain and you would have to again fine sand. Reading the product overview, it appears that TransTint can be mixed with the tung oil and applied as a finish toner. Experiment with this on a scrap sample.
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- Ken H on Jan 6, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 6, 2015
Yes I have used the dyes in tung oil, it works but it does not produce quite as pronounced a color. I normally put some tung oil in a cleaned baby food jar then add the dye to the oil and shake. I use the tinted oil for all coats. Good Luck.
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- Mike E on Jan 9, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
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Should I seal before adding oil based stain or should I put stain directly on top of the water based dye ?
Chris J
on Oct 6, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Chris: I would not put oil based stains over water based aniline dyes with or without a sealer. The end result will look muddy. A primary reason to use dyes is to preserve the transparency of the wood grain. If the reason for adding an oil based pigment stain (someone on one of the chat sites called these a dirty brown lie) as a top glaze, is to darken or shift the color tone, I would simply add additional coats of the dye, or use a different color dye to achieve the look you want. Highly recommend the color wheel approach in Jeff Jewitt's two books offered by Taunton Press. Jeff owns Homestead Finishing by the way.
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- Randall O on Oct 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
Hi, thanks for the reply. I was worried about that. The problem that I have is that it's white oak I'm staining so I am concerned about the pores not taking the dye completely. I'm trying to get a really dark brown without going black. I can achieve that with multiple coats of the oil stain I have but not consistently on every piece that needs stained. I've tried gel stain but it just covers the grain too much. Should I try a water based stain on top of the dye or do you think that I can get multiple coats of dye to cover evenly ? Right now I have dark walnut transtint.
BEST ANSWER: Chris: I would not put oil based stains over water based aniline dyes with or without a sealer. The end result will look muddy. A primary reason to use dyes is to preserve the transparency of the wood grain. If the reason for adding an oil based pigment stain (someone on one of the chat sites called these a dirty brown lie) as a top glaze, is to darken or shift the color tone, I would simply add additional coats of the dye, or use a different color dye to achieve the look you want. Highly recommend the color wheel approach in Jeff Jewitt's two books offered by Taunton Press. Jeff owns Homestead Finishing by the way.
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- Randall O on Oct 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
Hi, thanks for the reply. I was worried about that. The problem that I have is that it's white oak I'm staining so I am concerned about the pores not taking the dye completely. I'm trying to get a really dark brown without going black. I can achieve that with multiple coats of the oil stain I have but not consistently on every piece that needs stained. I've tried gel stain but it just covers the grain too much. Should I try a water based stain on top of the dye or do you think that I can get multiple coats of dye to cover evenly ? Right now I have dark walnut transtint.
In general would put the oil-based stain right on top of the dye (after it dries, of course). This works really well to reduce the contrast between early and late wood in species where they contrast greatly. Putting the stain over sealed wood effectively renders it a glaze.
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- Kendall H on Oct 6, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 28, 2015
Yes. add sealer between the dye and stain.
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- Mark J on Oct 7, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 20, 2015
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Can you put TransTint dyes in a NSK airbrush? Do you need to dilute it first? If so, what is the dilution ratio?
Marlies S
on Oct 1, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Airbrush application depends on what you want to paint. Transtint is a concentrate and must always be diluted. Choose a medium suited to what you want to paint. Water or acrylic medium for paper, 2d art, lacquer, alcohol, or varnish for wood, enamel or epoxy mixes for china. The dilution ratio depends on what color is desired. Also, multiple coats can change the color or "depth" of the look. A few coats of colored lacquer or varnish dyed with the Transtint gives an effect af looking more deeply into the piece. An old Dutch Masters trick called glazing, also used in oil painting and antique furniture restoration and reproduction. Color results also depend on how deeply Transtint colors different mediums different ways. Do not mix in the airbrush's container but a separate one which you add to the container attached to the nozzle. Less is more. Add a tiny bit, spray or brush apply to a sample, adjust with more Transtint as needed, drop by drop, or less.
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- Kim N on Oct 3, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Airbrush application depends on what you want to paint. Transtint is a concentrate and must always be diluted. Choose a medium suited to what you want to paint. Water or acrylic medium for paper, 2d art, lacquer, alcohol, or varnish for wood, enamel or epoxy mixes for china. The dilution ratio depends on what color is desired. Also, multiple coats can change the color or "depth" of the look. A few coats of colored lacquer or varnish dyed with the Transtint gives an effect af looking more deeply into the piece. An old Dutch Masters trick called glazing, also used in oil painting and antique furniture restoration and reproduction. Color results also depend on how deeply Transtint colors different mediums different ways. Do not mix in the airbrush's container but a separate one which you add to the container attached to the nozzle. Less is more. Add a tiny bit, spray or brush apply to a sample, adjust with more Transtint as needed, drop by drop, or less.
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- Kim N on Oct 3, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
Yes, TransTint can be put through an airbrush. Read the Mfgr's Datasheet for methods of application, ratios and curing times and finishing. I have found that it is always best to try whatever method on a scrap piece of the same project wood. This allows you to experiment without harm to the project piece.
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- Ken H on Oct 1, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 11, 2015
Sure. No. I don't think you will get good results airbrushing TransTint dyes. It'd be like airbrushing watercolor paint. The result will be transparent. Also TransTint is way to expensive. The 2oz bottle for $22 won't go very far.
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- Bill L on Oct 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
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I ordered and received transtint dye Red Mahogany. I mixed it with water and tested it on a piece of wood. It was not as red as I wanted. The color chart appeared to have more red than I got on my test piece. I was going to order the deeper red and try this. I will try this alone and mixed with the red mahogany. Any suggestions on how to mix this dye to get the desired color and brightness I want?
Gary W
on May 10, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The intensity and depth of color when using transtint dyes depends on the proportion of dye to solvent (water, shellac, or whatever you're using) in the solution. To get the color intensity as shown on the color charts, the ratio is one ounce of dye to one quart of solvent. What I've found helpful is to add the dye to a smaller amount of solvent. To get the color intensity I want, I add one ounce of dye to one-half quart of Bullseye clear shellac. I then try the mix and add more shellac to adjust if needed. Keep in mind that the color will look different on various species of wood.
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- STEVE F on May 11, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The intensity and depth of color when using transtint dyes depends on the proportion of dye to solvent (water, shellac, or whatever you're using) in the solution. To get the color intensity as shown on the color charts, the ratio is one ounce of dye to one quart of solvent. What I've found helpful is to add the dye to a smaller amount of solvent. To get the color intensity I want, I add one ounce of dye to one-half quart of Bullseye clear shellac. I then try the mix and add more shellac to adjust if needed. Keep in mind that the color will look different on various species of wood.
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- STEVE F on May 11, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
I'm afraid it will need to be trial and error. Keep careful track of the proportions you use and note the results. When using water based products like this the only drawback is that it will raise the grain on the wood when you apply it. There is no way to avoid this but you can intentionally raise the grain with water a couple of times prior to using this and then sand down again until it doesn't return. That's the only way to assure a good smooth finish. Good luck!
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- Michael F on May 12, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 4, 2015
you may have used excess water on first try. try again starting with a 1:1 ratio unless otherwise suggested. then increase water amount to lighten up hue to what you want.
good luck
good luck
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- Oskar K on May 12, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
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Does it penetrate the wood so it can be sanded down or planed and still retain color?
Michael L
on Apr 26, 2016
BEST ANSWER: OK--dye only sinks so far into the wood, plus it depends on if the wood is porous, hard, soft, etc. If you are careful, you CAN make amazing effects removing some wood after dying . Don't ecpect to plane or sand off 1/4 inch and have the dye be just as applied to the surface. For all over even color, best to dye AFTER all sanding and shaping is done. Effects: dye, then sand the higher areas of the dyed piece to create lighter contrasting wear patterns or lighter areas in a design: lower bits stay darker. Like the knobby bits on a candlestick or carving. Raised grain on weathered wood (driftwood, weathered wood, etc.) can be sanded down after dying for a magical super show of grain on the wood. Great for unique trim, a picture or mirror frame, or rustic furniture. Remember to seal the wood after you're done.
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- Kim N on Apr 27, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
BEST ANSWER: OK--dye only sinks so far into the wood, plus it depends on if the wood is porous, hard, soft, etc. If you are careful, you CAN make amazing effects removing some wood after dying . Don't ecpect to plane or sand off 1/4 inch and have the dye be just as applied to the surface. For all over even color, best to dye AFTER all sanding and shaping is done. Effects: dye, then sand the higher areas of the dyed piece to create lighter contrasting wear patterns or lighter areas in a design: lower bits stay darker. Like the knobby bits on a candlestick or carving. Raised grain on weathered wood (driftwood, weathered wood, etc.) can be sanded down after dying for a magical super show of grain on the wood. Great for unique trim, a picture or mirror frame, or rustic furniture. Remember to seal the wood after you're done.
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- Kim N on Apr 27, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
Very well put and helpful information from Kim N.
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- chris w on Sep 24, 2016
- Purchased on Sep 3, 2016
I used it on maple and I would say no.
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- Rusty R on Dec 1, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 9, 2016
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Can the dyes be used on children's furniture if top coated with polyurethane?
Thomas S
on Feb 8, 2016
Yes. Oil or Water based? For both, scuff surface well with a new green scrubbing pad, like for dishes. You can skip this, but it really helps. For oil, mix tint into alcohol and apply by wiping with a small (4" x 4") soft rag, like a terrycloth towel scrap, well dampened but not sloppy dripping, keeping a wet leading edge. Let dry 5 hours and re-coat with dye to deepen color and cover streaking. Topcoat with wipe on type oil varnish. Water based top coat will lift the dye and ruin it. Oil only for sealer/topcoat. If original poly coat is water based, mix tint with water--alcohol will dissolve water poly. Gel varnish will work for topcoat too. For added depth, you can stain or glaze dye layer with a gel stain before the final wipe on varnish.

General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat-Satin

Gel Stain - General Finishes - Candlelite
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- Kim N on Feb 13, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
No problem. Just let it dry overnight.
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- Mark S on Apr 9, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2017
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Are these dyes food safe? I'm looking for dyes to use on chopping blocks/cutting boards.
bleuviper2
on Nov 4, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I don't use TransTint in that manner. I use it to color resins and epoxies. My own feeling is NO. There are CAUTION and WARNING statements on the back label, with reference to State of Calif. known hazards. Best bet would be to get the Mfgr's Safety Data Sheet and data from the company's website.
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- Ken H on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Jul 6, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I don't use TransTint in that manner. I use it to color resins and epoxies. My own feeling is NO. There are CAUTION and WARNING statements on the back label, with reference to State of Calif. known hazards. Best bet would be to get the Mfgr's Safety Data Sheet and data from the company's website.
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- Ken H on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Jul 6, 2015
I would NOT recommend these dyes for anything where food will come into direct contact with the finished surface.
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- STEVE F on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
I'm almost 100% sure that they are not food safe. Sorry
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- Michael F on Nov 5, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 4, 2015
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Can this be mixed into prepared 3# cut shellac (Rockler, garnet shellac kit) to deepen the color (from more orange to more brown)? I am trying to get new red oak trim in a renovated kitchen to match the trim in the older parts of the house (shellac on red oak, ca. 1890).
Rudy M
on Oct 2, 2015
BEST ANSWER: yes you can use with a three pound cut. but I get better results mixing it with alcohol and putting the shellac over it. it mixes well with water but tends to make the fibers stand up requiring sanding before applying shellac.
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- jerry p on Oct 3, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
BEST ANSWER: yes you can use with a three pound cut. but I get better results mixing it with alcohol and putting the shellac over it. it mixes well with water but tends to make the fibers stand up requiring sanding before applying shellac.
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- jerry p on Oct 3, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
Directions show it can be added directly to shellac, most water based finishes, solvent lacquers, pre-cats, post catalyzed and conversion varnishes to make toners and shaders.
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- Glen T on May 21, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 29, 2016
Yes.. It can be added to shellac. Remember it's very concentrated. We mix it with alcohol. And, also add it to our shellacs and laquers as a toner. John Steffen
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- John S on Oct 2, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 21, 2014
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I need to get my maple to a darker tone. Do I need wood conditioner such as benite before I apply dye, stain and finally, a clear coat?
Alex R
on Aug 11, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Benite (the conditioner I use) or any other wood conditioner is designed to allow a stain to soak in evenly. It does this by filling in the wood pores with something akin to a sealer. Then when a stain is applied, it doesn't soak in as deeply. As an example, Maple will have a tendency to become splotchy when staining, the conditioner would be used to prevent that.
In general, you will find that Maple doesn't absorb much stain, and applying a lot will make the color look 'grainy'.
In a professional setting, I believe they would seal the wood (w/Shellac) and then spray the dye onto the surface so that a smooth even coat is applied. (This doesn't really work by hand... I've tried.)
So the final answer is: a conditioner would be wise, but a dye may not be what you really want...
You may have better luck sealing the wood w/Shellac Sanding Sealer then use a gel stain which isn't so much about soaking into the wood but laying the color on the surface. And then applying several coats.
As always... experiment.
In general, you will find that Maple doesn't absorb much stain, and applying a lot will make the color look 'grainy'.
In a professional setting, I believe they would seal the wood (w/Shellac) and then spray the dye onto the surface so that a smooth even coat is applied. (This doesn't really work by hand... I've tried.)
So the final answer is: a conditioner would be wise, but a dye may not be what you really want...
You may have better luck sealing the wood w/Shellac Sanding Sealer then use a gel stain which isn't so much about soaking into the wood but laying the color on the surface. And then applying several coats.
As always... experiment.
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- Bill L on Aug 11, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Benite (the conditioner I use) or any other wood conditioner is designed to allow a stain to soak in evenly. It does this by filling in the wood pores with something akin to a sealer. Then when a stain is applied, it doesn't soak in as deeply. As an example, Maple will have a tendency to become splotchy when staining, the conditioner would be used to prevent that.
In general, you will find that Maple doesn't absorb much stain, and applying a lot will make the color look 'grainy'.
In a professional setting, I believe they would seal the wood (w/Shellac) and then spray the dye onto the surface so that a smooth even coat is applied. (This doesn't really work by hand... I've tried.)
So the final answer is: a conditioner would be wise, but a dye may not be what you really want...
You may have better luck sealing the wood w/Shellac Sanding Sealer then use a gel stain which isn't so much about soaking into the wood but laying the color on the surface. And then applying several coats.
As always... experiment.
In general, you will find that Maple doesn't absorb much stain, and applying a lot will make the color look 'grainy'.
In a professional setting, I believe they would seal the wood (w/Shellac) and then spray the dye onto the surface so that a smooth even coat is applied. (This doesn't really work by hand... I've tried.)
So the final answer is: a conditioner would be wise, but a dye may not be what you really want...
You may have better luck sealing the wood w/Shellac Sanding Sealer then use a gel stain which isn't so much about soaking into the wood but laying the color on the surface. And then applying several coats.
As always... experiment.
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- Bill L on Aug 11, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
No.. Simply mix a darker solution of Transtint using denatured alcohol. Wipe on or better yet Spray on, if possible. Med. Brown. Walnut. Mission colours. ?
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- John S on Aug 11, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 21, 2014
No mix that with shellac and it will be the perfect start to a finish.
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- jerry p on Aug 11, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
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can I use this product with a spray gun?
A shopper
on Jul 14, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I can't think of a reason why not. I added some to sanding sealer I sprayed. But depending on how porous the wood you're dying, you might get better control of color saturation with a rag because you can go over spots where denser grain absorbs less.
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- william C on Jul 14, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 11, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I can't think of a reason why not. I added some to sanding sealer I sprayed. But depending on how porous the wood you're dying, you might get better control of color saturation with a rag because you can go over spots where denser grain absorbs less.
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- william C on Jul 14, 2015
- Purchased on Feb 11, 2015
Direction show it can be sprayed. the limitations would based on what you mix it into. Do not used it oil based finishes or those containing mineral spirits.
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- Glen T on May 21, 2016
- Purchased on Apr 29, 2016
I would think yes, but I do not have spraying capabilities.
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- David W on Jul 15, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 27, 2015
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Can I add this to an oil based product? I want to use Odie's oil and the recommend tinting the product.
A shopper
on Jun 27, 2015
BEST ANSWER: You could, but I would not. -- Any coloring/staining should happen before you apply your finish. This helps in applying an even color and protects the color from rubbing off...
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- Bill L on Jun 27, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
BEST ANSWER: You could, but I would not. -- Any coloring/staining should happen before you apply your finish. This helps in applying an even color and protects the color from rubbing off...
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- Bill L on Jun 27, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 18, 2015
I have used it with water and with shellac but I did see on the video not to use it with oil on YouTube but I haven't tried it myself
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- jerry p on Jun 27, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
No.. You can only use water or alcohol, for dilution or a base. Not oil based product. John Steffen.
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- John S on Jun 27, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 21, 2014
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Can this be used with a 2-part epoxy crack filler? If so, in what ratio?
Jim C
on Jun 3, 2015
BEST ANSWER: It took just a drop or two in epoxy to color the epoxy (West Systems) very black. Mix epoxy for a minute first and than add the tint. No thinning of tint necessary.
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- Joseph J on Nov 1, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: It took just a drop or two in epoxy to color the epoxy (West Systems) very black. Mix epoxy for a minute first and than add the tint. No thinning of tint necessary.
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- Joseph J on Nov 1, 2015
- Purchased on Aug 5, 2015
Jim, I have used Transtint with great success but only in water based sealer and finish. Try to mix up a small sample and experiment. In finish, I mix ratios from 1 to 6ml per pint depending on the intensity of the tint and the color I desire in the end. I use a plastic syringe from CVS in the baby medicine aisle to measure out in ml. Easier than counting drops coming out of the bottle. Hope this helps.
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- John Z on Jun 4, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 16, 2014
I have successfully it with shellac and water based finish, but it does not mix with mineral spirits. So in your situation I think experimenting is the only way to go. If it won't mix in, you could try using furniture powder colors instead.
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- Joseph F on Jun 23, 2015
- Purchased on Jun 11, 2014
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Can I use this product over 1coat of oil base stain that is showing too much grain?
A shopper
on Jun 3, 2015
BEST ANSWER: OK--"too much grain?" dyes are ground too fine to occlude the grain. Just top coat with gel stain (larger pigment particles) which will hide grain a bit. This is an oil based product and can go over another stain, tint or varnish. Alternately, you CAN use a transtint dye right on top of another stain or varnish and it will stain right through the finish. You can darken a lighter finish this way, if that's what you mean by "too much".
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- Kim N on Jan 20, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
BEST ANSWER: OK--"too much grain?" dyes are ground too fine to occlude the grain. Just top coat with gel stain (larger pigment particles) which will hide grain a bit. This is an oil based product and can go over another stain, tint or varnish. Alternately, you CAN use a transtint dye right on top of another stain or varnish and it will stain right through the finish. You can darken a lighter finish this way, if that's what you mean by "too much".
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- Kim N on Jan 20, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
This dye is meant to be applied to unfinished wood with open pores. If you have oil base stain already on the wood, it would be better to sand off the stain and then apply the dye in either a water or alcohol suspension. These dyes are used to create a dominant undertone to the wood before sealing and then using other finishes such as gel glaze stains or clear coatings.
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- Vincent D on Jun 3, 2015
- Purchased on Sep 16, 2014
i suggest asking the folks at Transtint. I used it on unfinished wood, sealed it, sanded it and then applied a stain before finishing. This is how it is intended to be used.
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- NORM E on Jun 3, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 16, 2015
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Can this be added to water-based varnishes to mimic the warm color tone that oil-based varnishes give wood?
A shopper
on May 29, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Try experimenting on a small quantity of product by reducing the dye with water and add to a sample of the water based varnish. Your best bet is to use the dye as described on the label, apply it to unfinished wood, then seal it with Arm-R-Seal or unwaxed shellac then, clear coat. I would suggest applying General Finishes Java gel stain over the sealed dye and wipe off, that will give you the warm tones to the wood like oil based varnish sometimes gives. A great deal depends on the wood
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- Vincent D on Jun 3, 2015
- Purchased on Sep 16, 2014
BEST ANSWER: Try experimenting on a small quantity of product by reducing the dye with water and add to a sample of the water based varnish. Your best bet is to use the dye as described on the label, apply it to unfinished wood, then seal it with Arm-R-Seal or unwaxed shellac then, clear coat. I would suggest applying General Finishes Java gel stain over the sealed dye and wipe off, that will give you the warm tones to the wood like oil based varnish sometimes gives. A great deal depends on the wood
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- Vincent D on Jun 3, 2015
- Purchased on Sep 16, 2014
My latest project was a bench below a window and I had to use varnish dur to its uv protection and the varnish and dye worked well together. My only question is why would you want to mix this with varnish rather than apply it as intended. A dye soaks into the wood to give uniform color rather than sit on the surface like a stain. By mixing with varnish you would effectively be making a stain.
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- JEFF B on May 29, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 17, 2015
Sorry, I have not used it yet on the project I got it for.
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- Garold B on May 29, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
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Can I add this to polyurethane to color maple blue, red, or green?
A shopper
on Apr 16, 2015
BEST ANSWER: This Question » Yes, you can but you shouldn't . The best way to get the full rich tint of those dyes is to add them to de-natured alcohol (i.e. not "rubbing " alcohol) or water. I like alcohol because it doesn't raise the grain. Apply with a decent sponge brush or a small rag lightly wetted by the dye but not drippy. . Keep a wet leading edge to avoid streaks and wipe drips and spots as you go with a paper towel. Not wearing gloves will leave your hands tinted for a very long time. Let dry overnight, or a least 6 hours even though things may seem dry. You may re-dye the object again if you'd like a more vivid tint. If you add the dye to the finish, the poly. you mentioned, what you are doing is creating a light glaze which will not color the wood deeply. You will have to apply coat after coat to get anything like a deep color and not have very good control over the staining process, plus, you may get lap marks in the finish color which are unsightly. Especially on maple, which is hard to stain. I can tell you want to get a rich tone because of the colors you chose. That's why the Transtint in alcohol is great for staining maple--it works when nothing else will--regular stains just stay on the top, which may be why you are trying to put the Transtint in the poly finish. You are in for a real treat--surprise--something which will color a hard wood with deep rich color. Also, try the dye, then use a stain over it for a nifty effect. Possibly a gel stain. Don't use "hardware store" gel stain--Rockler has heavily pigmented lovely gel stains they sell and accept no substitutes or you will be disappointed.
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- Kim N on Apr 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
BEST ANSWER: This Question » Yes, you can but you shouldn't . The best way to get the full rich tint of those dyes is to add them to de-natured alcohol (i.e. not "rubbing " alcohol) or water. I like alcohol because it doesn't raise the grain. Apply with a decent sponge brush or a small rag lightly wetted by the dye but not drippy. . Keep a wet leading edge to avoid streaks and wipe drips and spots as you go with a paper towel. Not wearing gloves will leave your hands tinted for a very long time. Let dry overnight, or a least 6 hours even though things may seem dry. You may re-dye the object again if you'd like a more vivid tint. If you add the dye to the finish, the poly. you mentioned, what you are doing is creating a light glaze which will not color the wood deeply. You will have to apply coat after coat to get anything like a deep color and not have very good control over the staining process, plus, you may get lap marks in the finish color which are unsightly. Especially on maple, which is hard to stain. I can tell you want to get a rich tone because of the colors you chose. That's why the Transtint in alcohol is great for staining maple--it works when nothing else will--regular stains just stay on the top, which may be why you are trying to put the Transtint in the poly finish. You are in for a real treat--surprise--something which will color a hard wood with deep rich color. Also, try the dye, then use a stain over it for a nifty effect. Possibly a gel stain. Don't use "hardware store" gel stain--Rockler has heavily pigmented lovely gel stains they sell and accept no substitutes or you will be disappointed.
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- Kim N on Apr 20, 2015
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
You can , however I would encourage you to Die the wood first. Seal coat, then urethane. I'm going to die my seal coat because the wood is too light and already sanded smooth.
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- Scott S on Apr 16, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 5, 2015
Only Water based Poly.. Do not add to Mineral based-Oil based Poly it will not mix.. Water base only.. :) john steffen
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- John S on Apr 16, 2015
- Purchased on Apr 1, 2015
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Hey all,
I plan on tinting a water based polyurethane. I want to end up with a ginger ale color. Anyone know what colors I would need to create a ginger ale or champagne color? Thanks!
I plan on tinting a water based polyurethane. I want to end up with a ginger ale color. Anyone know what colors I would need to create a ginger ale or champagne color? Thanks!
Dough T
on May 21, 2017
BEST ANSWER: To be honest, I don't think anyone will be able to answer your question. Since your tinted finish is transparent, the final color that you get is a combination of the tinted film coat plus the color of the wood you're coating. You'll have to experiment with different concentrations and mixtures of dye such as Coffee, Amber, Yellow, Golden Brown, etc., until you find what you want. A single color in the right concentration might work, or some combination of colors might be necessary. Remember, since you're planning to add the color to the finish, with each coat of finish, the color will get darker. You might try, instead, dying the wood and put an untinted coating on top.
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- Marty K on May 22, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 9, 2015
You're so kind, Marty. I forgot to mention the important part. The wood is a lamp base which I have S ilver leafed already. I want to tint the polyurathane so that the final look is a champagne hue to the leaf. I'm trying to replicate a lamp base I have that was done in the fifties, and it's got me stumped. Thanks for any ideas you might could come up with.
My thought now is to apply the leaf to some sample boards and then try different mixtures of dye/finish until you get close enough to what you want.
That's a smart plan and I'll do that tomorrow. The colors they present are so vibrant, so I can't figure how you get any of them to mix to a champagne color. But I'll try the color wheel and see what makes up that base. Perhaps it's something as odd as brown and white. Thanks again.
When you dilute the tints sufficiently they are not so vibrant. Champagne is basically a light earth tone - it might be as simple as diluting brown considerably; possibly with a little yellow added. Dilution is probably the coarse of action, not the addition of white (I'm not sure there is a white Transtint.).
I finally came upon a solution. I was Silver leafing my wood and trying to find a way to color clear polyurethane. Much simpler is to eliminate both steps, then spray the wood with metallic paint. Then poly on top. Duh - I took out unnecessary steps and it became cake. Thanks for all the help.
BEST ANSWER: To be honest, I don't think anyone will be able to answer your question. Since your tinted finish is transparent, the final color that you get is a combination of the tinted film coat plus the color of the wood you're coating. You'll have to experiment with different concentrations and mixtures of dye such as Coffee, Amber, Yellow, Golden Brown, etc., until you find what you want. A single color in the right concentration might work, or some combination of colors might be necessary. Remember, since you're planning to add the color to the finish, with each coat of finish, the color will get darker. You might try, instead, dying the wood and put an untinted coating on top.
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- Marty K on May 22, 2017
- Purchased on Apr 9, 2015
You're so kind, Marty. I forgot to mention the important part. The wood is a lamp base which I have S ilver leafed already. I want to tint the polyurathane so that the final look is a champagne hue to the leaf. I'm trying to replicate a lamp base I have that was done in the fifties, and it's got me stumped. Thanks for any ideas you might could come up with.
My thought now is to apply the leaf to some sample boards and then try different mixtures of dye/finish until you get close enough to what you want.
That's a smart plan and I'll do that tomorrow. The colors they present are so vibrant, so I can't figure how you get any of them to mix to a champagne color. But I'll try the color wheel and see what makes up that base. Perhaps it's something as odd as brown and white. Thanks again.
When you dilute the tints sufficiently they are not so vibrant. Champagne is basically a light earth tone - it might be as simple as diluting brown considerably; possibly with a little yellow added. Dilution is probably the coarse of action, not the addition of white (I'm not sure there is a white Transtint.).
I finally came upon a solution. I was Silver leafing my wood and trying to find a way to color clear polyurethane. Much simpler is to eliminate both steps, then spray the wood with metallic paint. Then poly on top. Duh - I took out unnecessary steps and it became cake. Thanks for all the help.
If you go on the internet and type in "color wheel" you should be directed to one of many sites which have information regarding the combination of colors to create custom colors.
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- David W on May 21, 2017
- Purchased on May 23, 2015
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I used trans tint dye, which had been diluted with alcohol on a pine table that had been sanded with 220. I then applied zinsner seal coat with a brush. You can see the lines where it dried before I had time to keep it all wet. I tried to rub in more of the diluted dye. It only made it worse. What did I do wrong?
dean s
on Mar 2, 2017
BEST ANSWER: Your problem was the order of operation. Next time use the a shellac seal coat before you use the dye. Another option is to add the dye to a varnish. That is my experience and it works well. With a highly figured wood Which may "spot" and "streaks" that show up after you apply the first coat the Varnish first approach can work well.
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- Julie G on Mar 3, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 4, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Your problem was the order of operation. Next time use the a shellac seal coat before you use the dye. Another option is to add the dye to a varnish. That is my experience and it works well. With a highly figured wood Which may "spot" and "streaks" that show up after you apply the first coat the Varnish first approach can work well.
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- Julie G on Mar 3, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 4, 2015
Not sure if you could have used anything else to dilute the stain but the alcohol evaporates really fast so that's probably why it dried so quick
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- Garold B on Mar 4, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
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Can you use this on new pine beams that have been distressed as well as new pine floors? I'm trying to soften the effect of the distressing.
Donna L
on Feb 21, 2017
BEST ANSWER: Yes. Remember to mix it by only adding a few drops at a time to your medium and to keep a wet leading edge when you apply it. I think alcohol is the best to mix it with, not water, which will raise the grain. No rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) since it has water in it. I use a very small rag, like a scrap of towel for best coverage and speed. Covers scratches and dings well.
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- Kim N on Mar 3, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Yes. Remember to mix it by only adding a few drops at a time to your medium and to keep a wet leading edge when you apply it. I think alcohol is the best to mix it with, not water, which will raise the grain. No rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) since it has water in it. I use a very small rag, like a scrap of towel for best coverage and speed. Covers scratches and dings well.
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- Kim N on Mar 3, 2017
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
I'm thinking pre-stain conditioner on all soft woods, ie sugar pine, doug fir, etc.
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.
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- CLINT S on Dec 15, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 16, 2017
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can this be applied over clear coated white paint ?
brutus
on Oct 1, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I don't think so, I believe that it soaks into the grain of the wood . I've only ever used it on raw wood then clear coat over
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- Jeff R on Oct 2, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 13, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I don't think so, I believe that it soaks into the grain of the wood . I've only ever used it on raw wood then clear coat over
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- Jeff R on Oct 2, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 13, 2015
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Is there a way to dye grain of wood only?
meg g
on Jul 12, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Well, no. Not in the conventional sense. Grain in wood is harder than the other wood and actually absorbs the dye less. I have had luck dying very heavily weathered wood with very raised grain. Like stuff left outside too long, old fence boards, etc. Driftwoodish. Dye the entire piece or board. Then paint it. Latex best. Then sand the wood for an amazing result--the dyed wood grain is revealed, while the lower wood remains painted, if slightly distressed.
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- Kim N on Jul 28, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Well, no. Not in the conventional sense. Grain in wood is harder than the other wood and actually absorbs the dye less. I have had luck dying very heavily weathered wood with very raised grain. Like stuff left outside too long, old fence boards, etc. Driftwoodish. Dye the entire piece or board. Then paint it. Latex best. Then sand the wood for an amazing result--the dyed wood grain is revealed, while the lower wood remains painted, if slightly distressed.
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- Kim N on Jul 28, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
No. Grain is the cell structures of wood itself that you see.., Dyes are less likely to accent grain like an oil base stain. Use lighter mixture of dye..
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- John S on Jul 12, 2016
- Purchased on Aug 21, 2014
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I have a project that I am using a "very curly" red oak. The grain on this wood is very tight, not like typical red oak with pores exposed everywhere. Will this dye still do a good job with the tight grain?? This will be my first time using a dye. My project is 4 pieces of oak that are 5" wide and 36" long. Will I be able to use denatured alcohol on this size project or do I need to add some paint thinner to extend work time? Appreciate any input.
John A
on Mar 4, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I was using it on a piece I was restoring it seems to be very concentrated die but really can't answer your question as far as the red Oak goes.
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- Garold B on Mar 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
BEST ANSWER: I was using it on a piece I was restoring it seems to be very concentrated die but really can't answer your question as far as the red Oak goes.
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- Garold B on Mar 4, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2015
Sorry John, I have limited experience with the subject wood dye and cannot answer your question with any expertise.
Jerry
Jerry
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- JERRY H on Mar 5, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 21, 2015
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What % of dye to solvent/water etc, do you use to achieve the color on there color chart?
Andre H
on Feb 16, 2016
BEST ANSWER: 2 ounces of dye per half gallon of solvent should give you the color as shown on the chart. Keep in mind that the same mixture of dye to solvent will look different on different species of wood. Also, grain pattern and coloring will make the same mixture look different...sometimes on a single piece of wood. Good luck!
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- STEVE F on Feb 16, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: 2 ounces of dye per half gallon of solvent should give you the color as shown on the chart. Keep in mind that the same mixture of dye to solvent will look different on different species of wood. Also, grain pattern and coloring will make the same mixture look different...sometimes on a single piece of wood. Good luck!
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- STEVE F on Feb 16, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
I don't know about the chart but from my experience just a few drops is all you need. I made five guitars with the black and still have half the bottle left
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- Jeff R on Feb 16, 2016
- Purchased on Oct 25, 2014
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am trying to match up knotty pine that has yellowed clear coat?
roger m
on Jan 10, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The Lemon Yellow TransTint dye might work. Do you know what the finish is on the wood you're trying to match? TransTint dyes are not compatible with all finish coatings. Also, keep in mind that oxidized unfinished pine will naturally yellow. If it is then coated with a finish like clear shellac, it will have a bright yellow color that may be difficult to match with a dyed coating. The best result might come by adding a small amount of the Lemon Yelloe dye to a quart can of clear shellac. Do this a few drops at a time, mix, then apply to a test piece for color match. If too light, add a couple more drops of dye, mix, and test again. Good luck.
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- STEVE F on Jan 10, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
BEST ANSWER: The Lemon Yellow TransTint dye might work. Do you know what the finish is on the wood you're trying to match? TransTint dyes are not compatible with all finish coatings. Also, keep in mind that oxidized unfinished pine will naturally yellow. If it is then coated with a finish like clear shellac, it will have a bright yellow color that may be difficult to match with a dyed coating. The best result might come by adding a small amount of the Lemon Yelloe dye to a quart can of clear shellac. Do this a few drops at a time, mix, then apply to a test piece for color match. If too light, add a couple more drops of dye, mix, and test again. Good luck.
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- STEVE F on Jan 10, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 5, 2015
You might try mixing a small proportion of TransTint Amber in SLX Alcohol to create a stain, or with clear polyurethane to make a tinted finish.
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- H Dykes R on Mar 1, 2016
- Purchased on Feb 7, 2016
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What is the shelf life of these dyes mixed with denatured alcohol an stored in mason jars?
Darren P
on Jan 2, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Well, it's not recommended for storage, but I store it in glass bottles, either mixed with alcohol or as a tint in lacquer. Mason jars are a little leaky, air-wise, but you can put a layer or two of plastic wrap between the jar and the lid if you have to. I've personally had it last months this way. You can always add some more alcohol to thin it down.
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- Kim N on Jan 20, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
BEST ANSWER: Well, it's not recommended for storage, but I store it in glass bottles, either mixed with alcohol or as a tint in lacquer. Mason jars are a little leaky, air-wise, but you can put a layer or two of plastic wrap between the jar and the lid if you have to. I've personally had it last months this way. You can always add some more alcohol to thin it down.
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- Kim N on Jan 20, 2016
- Purchased on Mar 12, 2015
Ideally, you should mix only what you will use. Consult the Mfgr's Safety Data Sheet. There is information on storage and which colors tend to thicken or lose color over time. TransTint by itself does not have a shelf life.
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- Ken H on Jan 2, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 6, 2015
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Reviews
4.7 / 5.0
115 Reviews
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repair
I repaired some Chinese chairs (loose joints). Unfortunately, in the process of taking it apart, there were some tiny chip-outs. Wood filler plus red mahogany dye made them disappear. Sweet!
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Easy to mix. Get the color I want on my second try
TransTint dyes have worked well for me mixing them both with WunderFill wood filler (usually white), and platina shellac. One mix on a test piece, carry out the rest of my finishing program, and I can get exactly the color I want with a small adjustment when finishing the real work.

Bright Red TransTint dye, plus white WunderFill on cherry and oak.
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Dark Walnut dye on white pine.
Did a great job on my project. Using alcohol to dilute you have to apply very quickly to keep a wet edge otherwise there will be overlaps visible as the alcohol evaporated very fast. Excellent to get an expensive look on low cost wood. Have not tried diluting with water to prevent raising the grain after sanding.


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Great color customization
I’ve used it to tint shellac as a way of staining otherwise blotchy maple. Using the dyes I have been able to duplicate the color of existing, old woodwork. There’s simply no other way to do it.
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Great Dyes
The dyes are great. I use them to mix with epoxy mostly. 1 bottle came with a broken cap but Rockler replaced the whole bottle promptly. Great service as usual.
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Good stuff
Works well. I would recommend buying a class jar with this so you can keep larger amounts of dye for your next use.

Added Dec 9, 2017
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Great product
I have been fighting with stains and oak for a long time. I have a hard time getting it dark enough. I bought three bottles of this dye, blended a custom color mixed with alcohol and applied. Great results. I won’t go back to stain any time soon.


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Mission style jelly jar cabinet
Used this dye to even out the wood color and raise the grain. I then applied shellac cut to less then two pounds and applied a cinnamon colored stain. Topcoat is polyurethane.



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Great product
The tint worked perfect. I needed to darken the edge of live slab where bark was missing. I used a couple drops and mixed with denatured alcohol and worked amazing.

Added Nov 26, 2017
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November 26, 2017
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Rich, dark base for oak
Great for getting a rich, dark base prior to staining craftsman oak furniture. I use tint for all my new furniture, as well for restorations.
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Great stuff, and worth the price, but BE CAREFUL!
I was looking for some way to tint a shellac finish for a piano top so I tried this. It really does work well, but when they say use very little they're not kidding. It is extremely concentrated. I eventually used just an eyedropper of the stuff to get the color I wanted for an entire lid.
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Great for a Stickley finish
I built a Greene and Greene table for a client who wanted a finish to match A Stickley chair he owned. I found a link online that described how to match various Stickley finishes. This dye was part of the process. I had never used dyes before, but the finish was a perfect match.
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These dyes worked perfectly for my guitar project.
These dyes worked very well and allow infinite color shades by varying the strength of the mix and with the number of coats applied.


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Mixing for the right color
I now own 4 of the transtint dyes. I am still experimenting to find the color that I want on the finished product. Transtint dye seems to mix well and a few drops makes a difference.
Wear gloves while handling or your fingers will be stained.
Wear gloves while handling or your fingers will be stained.
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A little goes along way
Good product, does what it is supposed to do. Small increments into the shellac/poly/conditioner/ to gauge color with many color options to choose from.
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Great product, a little goes a long way
This is the first time I used these dyes and they gave a depth and consistency to the finish, Practice on scrap first its easy to use too much.
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Trans tint dyes
I use these dyes for staining the electric guitars I build.
They mix superbly with lacquer, epoxy, alcohol, and water.
They mix superbly with lacquer, epoxy, alcohol, and water.




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Trans Tint is available in multiple colors, although the color I use most often is black. It works beautifully mixed with denatured alcohol. For what I need, this is the best "coloring" product available.
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Great Dyes
These work well in water or alcohol. Better and easier to use than powdered dyes.
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Will use it again.
Great product, easy to use. It did exactly what I needed with the results I was after.

Added Aug 8, 2017
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Great product
First time using. Mixed two colors together to get the perfect shade I wanted. Very easy to use. Tested on a scrape piece until I got the shade I wanted. A little goes a long way .I'd certainly recommend this
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Pre Stain Prep should have been better (my error)
I used denatured alcohol as a base, I had some residual gunk left over on the guitar that blotched and made some blue spots, overall good stuff.


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dying wood
I made a quart of dye using transtint and was very satisfied with the results. Applied evenly and penetrated nicely. Would not hesitate to use agian in the future.
Rick Evans
Rick Evans
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Best quality dye.
Best product to save me time and money.
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This stuff is strong. Just a few drops is all it takes. Wear gloves because the tint does not wash off your skin, it has to wear off.
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So far so good.
Just be careful when you open it. They don't leave a big air bubble. They fill it to the top to give you your money's worth. And man, is it concentrated. Also, very important -- wear gloves. The only way to get it off is with a scotch brite pad.
But I really like the color without the "mud" look of conventional wood stain.
But I really like the color without the "mud" look of conventional wood stain.
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Easy to work with and adaptable to many uses.
I used the TransTint to color epoxy for a pen blank coating. It worked very well. Great product.
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Great stuff
I've been helping my wife with a craft project that required wood to be different colors and these wood dyes were/are perfect. Just be careful, it runs even worse than wood oil.
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Long time user of TransTint
Predictable, repeatable performance. Just what I am looking for in a dye stain.

Greene and Greene inspired blanket chest built from red grandis dyed with TransTint brown mahogany.
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Only the Good Dye (young)
This is an excellent dye for woodworking, BUT, you really need to experiment with different mix proportions to get the desired results. Follow the OEM instructions for a good starting point, but play with it a bit. I found a light stain sealer helped get a more consistent result, especially on open-grain woods like Oak.
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Excellent, even color; versatile application
Was able to achieve an even color throughout notoriously tricky open-pore red oak and oak veneer. Used half alcohol, have lacquer thinner as solvent for reasonable working time. Extra bonus - by using this dye instead of stain, was able to pre-color all parts before assembly and still get excellent glue bond between pieces.

Beautiful, even "Dark Walnut" color on red oak. 3oz/qt ratio, alcohol/lacquer thinner solvent.
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transtint dye
Used a mix of orange and med brown on a sculpted rocker. Nice result, especially with polyurethane as the top coat. Great stuff
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love it
the only wood dye i use. i am in control of the shade and intensity. dries fast with alcohol, and back to work with a short down time.
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Works great. A little goes a long way
I used this to tint T – 88 epoxy for knife making. I used it to fill in some worm holes in the wood scales. Worked out great.

Worm holes filled with tinted T-88
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Strain to impress
Great station and will last a long time
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Gtreat product
This was my first experience with the Transtint dye. I finished some baltic birch and some maple plywood with the dye. I pretreated the wood with the prestain conditioner and the applied the dye. I applied the dye with a foam brush until the wood was saturated and then wiped it back. I then sealed the wood with shellac and applied a finish coat of polyurethane. You need to seal the dye or it will lift with any top coat you apply. The results were beautiful!
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Love this product!
Easy to apply, dilute to your taste wih alcohol. Great control over depth of color
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Excellent Results
Total transparency allows the full effect of the wood grain to show through. You control the intensity of the color by varying the grade of sanding and the amount of dye used. Application is easy and flawless. I plan to use TransTint dyes instead of stains at every opportunity.
The dyes are also invaluable when you are trying to match an existing stain or color.
The dyes are also invaluable when you are trying to match an existing stain or color.
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Better than expected
I bought the dyes to use on strips of maple that would be laminated together to make the frame of a fishing net. I was worried they would run or bleed when I put the Gorilla Glue on them. There was zero problem! Love it.
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Red Review
Great color easy to use, mixed well with water base Polycrylic I would recommend this product
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Love this stuff. I'll never use stain again.
Mix it up with everclear and finish with shellac flake (also in everclear) for a completely non-toxic finishing process!
Mix it up with everclear and finish with shellac flake (also in everclear) for a completely non-toxic finishing process!
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Wood dye