Perfect miters - no adjustments! Simply cut one piece on the leading face, one on the trailing face, and voila! Since both pieces reference off a perfect 90° angle, the miters will fit perfectly.
- Pre-installed adjustable nylon pins provide a no-slop fit to the miter track.
- Through-slots in the base allow you to securely clamp moldings at table level.
- Can be easily drilled to add extended fences and stops.
- High-impact polycarbonate ensures durability and low-friction sliding.
- Fits a standard 3/8" x 3/4" miter slot.
- Measures 5-1/2" in width and 10-3/8" in length. Clamping faces are 7-1/2" long.
|Manufacturer Part Number||45 MITER SLED|
I have to admit as a...Posted June 5, 2012
I have to admit as a woodworker, I felt like I should be building one of these things. I have certainly seen mitre sleds before, and even built one years ago. This is kind of a twist on the old idea, quite literally in fact, as they rotated the jig 90° from what we normally see. The video showed a person using a stop against the rip fence, and this kind of appealed to me as you could cut your molding to length, and not have to worry about length stops, which requires a long fence, adjustable stops, etc. If you make frames over 30" or so, long fences with stops are a bit cumbersome to use. The concept here is great. As long as the jig is 90°, and the slot is parallel to the table, you are gold. Well, my jig measured 90.2°. .2° is not a whole lot, but if you multiply that times four, that's .8 or nearly 1° off. That's not going to produce pristine miters. Strike one. As other people mentioned the nylon set screws are a very soft and wear down extremely fast. Strike two. The jig is a little bit small, and felt as though it could pretty easily come out of the miter slot. I just didn't like the "feel" of how it slid across the table. I'm sure other woodworkers can relate to the "feel" of certain tools and jigs. Strike three. So, I think they have a good idea going, it's just not very well executed in my opinion. I will make my own, which is probably what I should have done to begin with, but was feeling lazy. Lesson learned.
Before I used my miter sled...Posted February 10, 2012
Before I used my miter sled ..I masked off 3 1/2 " wide "Pads" on the miter rail on the back side ...not the screw side then applied JB Weld to each of those masked areas . After it set up hard I took a flat file and fitted it to my miter slot in my saw ... This works great ...Its very easy to get an exact tight fit and still smooth and easy to slide... and as it wears later I can still bring the screws out ever so slightly to make those adjustments.
I have a Delta Shopmaster and...Posted June 3, 2011
I have a Delta Shopmaster and it fits fine but needs fine tuning with the screws. The screws loosen every few cuts so you need to keep those adjusted. Otherwise it works fine.
I found it easy to use...Posted May 31, 2011
I found it easy to use and great when I need perfect 45's.It saved my bacon on one recent project.Problems- The plastic set screws used to tighten up the slid in the slot allow you to make not quite 45's although the combined angle is still 90 degrees- The set screws are soft and will wear.- The plastic surface was slippery. Solved this by gluing sandpaper to the surface.
Very nice, simple solution to accurate...Posted March 18, 2011
Very nice, simple solution to accurate miters. But I agree that the nylon set screw adjustment idea needs to be improved. They quickly vibrate out of adjustment and with use, I expect they would wear down. Instead of the screws, I used a thin strip of Slick Strip UHMW tape on one side of the miter slot bar. Not only did it take up the slop, it also makes the sled slide better in the miter track. I also put a few pieces of Slick Strip on the bottom surface of the sled which prevents the sled from rocking back and forth and really makes the sled glide across my cast iron Delta saw table. Note to Rockler: you really need to carry Slick Strip!! The stuff will make anything slide better. One note of warning, though. Make sure your saw's blade and miter slot are perfectly aligned or your miter cuts will be off. Not even the most expensive miter gauge or sled will give an accurate miter cut on a saw that is out of alignment.