Straighten any length of lumber using your table saw.
It's never been easier or more economical to make straight and even edges on any size stock. No need buy a jointer – with the Joint'R Clamp Kit, all you need is your table saw. Simply attach to a straight board that has been rabbeted out at the bottom, clamp it to your stock and go! Straighten crooked boards, true up rough-sawn edges, and make shallow taper cuts with positive control all in one pass with your table saw and Joint'R Clamp. Clamps can handle up to 1-1/2" thick material, removing the pad on the end of the clamp allows you to handle up to 2" thick material.
These two simple pieces of aluminum do exactly what Rockler says they will do, and do it excellently. The instructions are easy, the price is right and, if you're a wood miser like me, optimizing the use of even "ugly" wood is made simple and fast.
Got mine today and cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and straightened a 3/4" X 8' board. Couldn't be happier! I have rollers for an outfeed table 10' long so I will place a piece of plywood over them to keep the clamp from sinking down everytime it goes over a roller...the things worked perfect for this novice... wish I hadn't waited so many years before I spent $20....thanks for a great product.
I set up a jig using these clamps and a 4 inch wide piece of MDF. When making the rabbet, I made sure the bottom of the MDF was flush with the feet of clamps. This eliminated the need for an additional set. Worked like a charm. Trued up my boards easily.
Have not used it yet but will soon. One surprise - the clamp that secures to the guide board will not handle a standard 3/4" thick board which means cutting a groove on the guide board or planning the entire board to accommodate the clamp.
Problem 1: Clamps are rugged aluminum, but the bases are 9/32" inch thick, so the edge of the board to be straightened will be up that far above the saw table surface; the result will be that the cut you make won't be square. You could support the board with something else 9/32" thick (just keep it out of the saw blade!), or you could run the outer edge twice. Problem 2: Another drawback is that the aluminum clamps may mar the surface of your saw table. There is a 2-7/16" folding leg in the clamp base that can be swung out to support very narrow boards, but the rivet that secures it is a little rough and protrudes slightly beyond the base. This will be almost sure to make a scratch if you don't file it down. Still, when squaring 2" x 8' red oak, your other options are limited.
Once clamped on, the work piece is sort of suspended slightly off the table, which make the cutting experience a little "shaky" (i.e. the board doesn't rest flat on the table surface). Otherwise, worked fine!
I have a sears table saw with extensions. The extensions have a large area that is sunken down. The clamp kit when passed over these areas gets hung up. This makes for an uneven feed rate. The extension needs to be longer for wider boards.
As advertised...You do however need to consider buying enough so that at least one of the jigs is on the table surface at all times. In my case I needed to space them on the straight board at 22" intervals for a 24" table. Also the foot extensions should be a little longer to support wider stock (+8")to prevent beveled cuts.
I made the suggested rabbet in the guide piece but found that the guide board would need to be much wider and heavier than the board I was trying to cut to keep everything flat and stable through the cut. Won't work for the 1.75" x 9-11" alder I'm working with. Back to finding a jointer.
Very disappointed. Would have returned them but shipping cost would have been about what I paid for them on sale. The underside of the clamps rest directly on the saw surface and would inevitably scratched the finish.
It seems that the "shelf" on which the board to be straightened rests (held by the thumbscrew) must slide along the surface of the table saw. In addition, that same board seems like it could not slide "flat" on the table as the two shelves are riding on that surface. How can that board slide flat if supported? Please help!