I-Semble Vertical-Mount Murphy Bed Hardware Kits with Mattress Platforms
Create a wall bed that opens smoothly and quietly with these premium piston lift mechanisms. With no springs to break or slacken over time, you'll get years of reliable service. Unlike many other kits, these packages include a sturdy steel mattress platform with comfortable cambered wood slats to support your mattress. Metal legs at the foot of the bed swing out for a level sleeping surface when opened, and the mechanism holds the bed securely closed when not in use. Instructions are included for building a basic cabinet enclosure. Compatible with mattresses up to 10'' thick. Choose from Twin, Full and Queen sizes.
- Includes tubular steel mattress frame for strength and improved weight distribution
- Comes with cambered wood slats for comfort
- Recommended for standard mattress sizes up to 10'' thick
- No box spring is used
(1) Mattress Platform with Wood Slats
(1) Set of Detailed Instructions/Plans for a Cabinet Enclosure
|Tech Spec||Item #54877 (Twin-Size)
Item #55991 (Full-Size)
Item #54386 (Queen-Size)
1. Read the instructions OVER AND OVER before you begin the build! Each step is written for a reason and inserted in a specific order. You'll find that you need a few additional minor items (screws, etc.) to complete the bed and a few tools (clamps, doweling jig) that aren't listed, might make the job a bit easier.
2. Buy quality lumber - find a lumber yard that specializes in high quality plywood with thick veneer. Your fit and finish will be much better than with big box lumber store plywood.
3. Pivot brackets are not quite square. Measure the holes in the side panel according to the diagram in the instructions rather than follow the template or using the brackets as a template.
4. Measure once, twice and then again. This is a large box and very minor measurement errors will result in significant problems squaring it up.
5. If you plan to stain the project, stain the pieces before assembling them. I used painters tape to mask off surfaces that were to be glued.
6. Invest in a good quality dowling jig. If you use pocket screws, use twice as many to ensure a strong joint AND use glue and dowels. The cabinet must be strong since it transfers the force of the struts to the studs in the wall. Poor joints (lack of glue, screws, dowels or poor fit with gaps) could result in the cabinet surfaces separating, causing a safety issue.
7. If you're not a seasoned woodworker, take your time. This is definitely not a project to be rushed. If you're careful, measure accurately and follow the directions, you'll be very pleased with the result.
1 year ago
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The I-Semble is a metal frame that is in the kit. You add a wooden decorative front to this. The mattress sits on this frame. It makes making the bed much easier if one side is against a wall. I like the I-Semble version. I will buy the I-Semble version if I make another Murphy Bed. So mush easier, and the look is the same. Make sue that your mattress is not thicker than the max size. I think it is 10"
(I have not completed my assembly, however, as I have been traveling a lot. I will update if my I get into the bed frame and my opinion changes.)
I can say this has been a great kit to work on so far...all the parts are really well-organized and there are full-sized drilling guides making it really easy to get critical holes in exactly the right places QUICKLY with no measuring. Just lay the drilling guide on the panel, mark all the hole locations with a punch and start drilling.
All of this can be done but would take quite a bit of effort and you would have to take care to get the bed level with a modified leg.
One thing you might want to consider is using a mattress thicker than recommended. I did this by making the cabinet deeper to hold the deeper mattress. The top of my mattress sits approximately 26” off the floor which is fairly comfortable.
Hope this helps.
RE: Bed frame cabinet - conflicting dimensions
Rockler website instructions download
Vertical sides should be 15-7/8 wide PLUS a 3/4 thick facing = 16-5/8
Instruction packed with the KIT
Vertical sides should be 16" wide - with no mention of any facing covering the plywood edge.
Which is it?
If you choose to use the plans from the iSemble kit you should use all of the dimensions from that plan.
For best results, please do not mix and match dimensions or specifications from one set of plans to the other.
If you want to add the shelves, you'll need shelf pins/supports for 3 shelves per cabinets, 2 hinges per cabinet, 1 door pull per cabinet, and additional wood. A shelf drilling jig is also really helpful for the shelves.
I just built it and I do think a crown jig (either built or purchased) some large clamps or clamp-it squares, an a domino joiner (stronger than biscuits) would all be a consideration for me were I to do it again.
If you build the cabinet according to the I-Semble instructions (and mount hardware at indicated locations) and use 3/4" plywood for the front panels, will those panels be flush with the front edge of the cabinets?
I would like to add some 1/4" accent trim pieces to the front panels but don't really want the trim pieces sticking out?
Also - I noticed others asking about cabinet depth - I see references to 15-7/8 and 16" and 16-5/8, the current instructions show the depth at 17"
WARNING: Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/wood.