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I needed to replace a rusted out ball catch on my shower stall door. The spring in the catch had disintegrated. This 11/32 inch brass catch fitted perfectly into the hole after a gentle reaming of the current hole to remove any residual debris. Now the door closes and no water on the floor.
I made a new laundry chute door for in my very small bathroom, so I needed something tiny and flush. The latch does the job perfect. The tiny "click" sound it makes when it's shut lets me know it won't pop open and dent my bathroom door.
I was replacing a similar latch on a piece of older furniture. This was just right. Only problem was the drill size needed. Had to wait until this latch arrived before measuring needed hole size. (7/16). Then I needed to order a short shaft bit from rockle to seat the latch. Recommed that you include the hole size needed in the latch discription.
Product performed well for my application. Needing a gentle ‘hold’, I used these for a set of delicate antique French doors. I used West System epoxy to hold them in the head jamb and in the top of the doors. There is NO adjustment with these after installation, so plan carefully. I would use these again.
I need to make a trade show display and used these for the door stops. Need to be flush so it packed up into a tight box for shipping and storage. Worked real well for the project.
Doesn't come with any installation instructions....
Doesn't come with any installation instructions. Had to use a "hit or miss" process to install two of them on a curio cabinet door. Don't work too well and I'm in process of installing another type of catch and will remove the ball-catch.
Great disappointment. Purchased 7/16" diameter ones...
Great disappointment. Purchased 7/16" diameter ones for cabinet doors in a a small dresser. Springs are soft and don't develop enough force to hold doors closed. I tried to stretch spring but it just compresses again. Grooves is strike plates don't match diameter of ball. Housing of one ball unit cracked when I got it.
I wanted an invisible closure for a hidden door in an antique desk. The ball catch is an unconventional choice, but in this case It's the perfect solution.
I am making a co-sleeper for one of three daughters having a baby this year and this should work well for the one hinged side that will slide between the box spring and mattress.
I wanted an invisible closure for a hidden door in an antique desk. The ball catch is an unconventional choice, but in this case It's the perfect solution.
I am making a co-sleeper for one of three daughters having a baby this year and this should work well for the one hinged side that will slide between the box spring and mattress.
What is the minimum gap between the door and frame when the door is closed?
A shopper
on Jun 10, 2015
BEST ANSWER:1/6" is the minimum gap. That is with the ball component set flush to the cabinet, and the catch protruding about about 1/32" from the door. If the catch protrudes a full 1/16", it might scratch the cabinet when you close the door. These work great.
BEST ANSWER:1/6" is the minimum gap. That is with the ball component set flush to the cabinet, and the catch protruding about about 1/32" from the door. If the catch protrudes a full 1/16", it might scratch the cabinet when you close the door. These work great.
Had a very difficult trifold over/under on a preinstalled faceframe. These are clearly made of decent materials but are expensive and vary in terms of spring strength and ball protrusion, fine tuning for appropriate catch is very time consuming. Use my micrometer and though all was set - wrong. Too deep/shallow add washers and keep drilling. Set everything up to be the same and was not acceptable. Took some time to fine tune...and I mean some time, would have liked to backcharge the QC manager in India. Not for amateurs except on small projects. But..they are made of quality materials
BEST ANSWER:Yes, but the only way is by how deep you set the the ball and the catch part of the two parts. The reveal on the doors was 3/32"" so I set the catch part flush to the door and the ball part flush to the rail of the face frame.
BEST ANSWER:Yes, but the only way is by how deep you set the the ball and the catch part of the two parts. The reveal on the doors was 3/32"" so I set the catch part flush to the door and the ball part flush to the rail of the face frame.
Not really. This catch has no adjustment after installation; I usually epoxy mine in. Best to do a dry 'mock up' with scrap lumber to set the depth of your holes correctly.
Hi! I need to replace the ball catch in the top of one of my bathroom swinging doors. The ball size is 17/32 inch and the brass surround for the ball is 11/16 inch. I can't find this In your inventory online. Is this available? The item is installed into the top of the doors And fits into a screwed in bracket into the top of my door frame.
BEST ANSWER:I didn't see a strike plate available and just used a depression in the wood frame to hold the ball. Not perfect and it will wear over time, unfortunately.
BEST ANSWER:I didn't see a strike plate available and just used a depression in the wood frame to hold the ball. Not perfect and it will wear over time, unfortunately.
BEST ANSWER:The strike is the piece to the left in the photo. This will be installed in the cabinet opposite to the door edge you install the ball catch into.
BEST ANSWER:The strike is the piece to the left in the photo. This will be installed in the cabinet opposite to the door edge you install the ball catch into.
The usual recommendation is to use these ball catches at the top and bottom of a door. I much prefer to install them on the edge of the door, near the door pull. This way it closes really easily. You hardly notice the hardware at all once they're installed.