These worked great . Was building some cabinets in my garage and was wondering what I could use to have a simple latch system to keep the doors shut. These latches work great and are well made. Thank you
Great Quick-Disconnect:I gave these bullet catches...
Great Quick-Disconnect:I gave these bullet catches a 5* rating for their versatility and function. I have never used then as a furniture catch. I use them in the process of my work, which is a GA. Dept. of Agriculture Fuel Inspector. One of the things we always check is the water content of fuel storage tanks. It is a chemical test performed by coating a tank "stick" with water paste which changes color in the presence of water (litmus type test). Some of the larger tanks are up to 16' deep, and a 2-pc. stick is used, because there is no way to transport a single 16' "stick" in a PU Truck. I made my own tank stick of two 7" pieces of 3/4" anodized thin wall (1/16" wall thickness) square aluminum tubing (No Sparking allowed here guys & girls). I join them together by inserting a 6" long X 5/8" X 5/8" square piece of rosewood, (extremely strong), cut to fit the inside dimension of the tubing 3" into the top piece. This is secured with polyurethane glue and two aluminum pop rivets through the tubing into the rosewood. The 3"long X 5/8 X 5/8 square rosewood extension has a 3/8" diameter bullet catch inserted and centered 1&1/2" from the end of the tubing. In the mating piece of tubing I drill four 1/4" holes on center 1&1/2" from the end of the tubing. The two pieces simply snap together when needed, and are separated by depressing the ball of the bullet catch with my thumb while pulling apart the two halves. On the other end of the top half of my stick there is a 3 rosewood plug inserted and secured with polyethylene glue and aluminum pop rivets. The plug had a 3/16 hole drilled through it and is threaded with a 6' X 1/8 diameter piece of braided nylon cord. The cord is secured to a 4 X 7/16 headless bolt with a hole drilled into one end. The end of the cord extending from the tubing is attached to a key ring acting as a stop to prevent the cord from disappearing inside the tubing. This allows me to check tanks deeper than 14' without losing my stick . The great thing about these bullet catches is their economy and durability. They come in 5-packs. I keep an eye on them, and when they get a little worn I pop one out and insert another. I join and separate my tank stick numerous times daily. In over two years of use it has never separated and caused me to lose the bottom half in a tank. I have replaced the bullet catch once. I still have three left, and the rosewood joint has never failed.
It would be very helpful to know the gap measurement for this device. If you have a close fitting lid or door, these must be mitered in. I decided to use these as an afterthought on a toolbox with a drop front. They were to hold the front in position when the top was raised. I had to cut 1/8" out of the sides to accomodate the strike. The data sheet tells height and width. How about the interference measurement? My toolbox application works very well actually. In the middle of installation I was fit to be tied but I just did what looked sensible and it turned out good.
I really wanted the bigger size but Rockler did not have them in stock. Absolutely no instructions on how best to install. At least a recommended hole size would have been nice. The pin to secure the strike plate part is very difficult to install accurately with no adjustments possible to give the cabinet door a flush fit. There is a lot of door movement allowed when the ball catch is engaged.
the concept is good especially when space is at a minimum.however,quality installing is just not possible. after trying several times (drilling a hole then filling it in-which leaves scar marks instead of clear wood) I gave up and tried another method. putting the two pieces in so the rise in the one piece would slide into the other piece is impossible.
This looks like a nice solution for my cabinet needs, but I'm wondering if a "stop" is needed to keep the cabinet door from over traveling past the intended closed position of the cabinet door? Any insight would be appreciated!