Classic Chessboard Plan
Build a chessboard so fine, it's fit for a king or a queen! The uniquely designed chessboard top works with natural wood movement to keep the top stable. Two built-in drawers are perfect for hiding away your chess pieces. Plan is a reprint from issue 48 of Today's Woodworker magazine. Hardware Kit (#34281, sold separately) and Lumber Kit (#34356, sold separately).
6 months ago
1 year ago
1 year ago
Funny that the plans call for an elaborate (and nearly impossible) board itself to allow for wood expansion, but there are absolutely no mention in the plan of how to attach the complicated board to the frame itself.
My board did come out very nice in the end.
over 2 years ago
over 3 years ago
foot long strips of hardwood-on two sides initially. Then, I used a 100 tooth (new) carbide saw blade to slice
up the 64 squares,with the help of a stop. For the other two sides, I fabricated a jig, to encapsulate and support each block, with a "face plate", which was glued and screwed along the side of 3/4" sled. The "sled" is carefully notched out, which was approximately 15" long by 4" tall, in the center of the 3/4" thick sled. By doing this, each block is sandwiched between the "face plate" on the left and the table's fence on the right. Keeps your fingers away from the spinning blade. I used a quality piece of pine for this jig. Each 1.5" block should fit snug to the 1.5" x 1.5" opening to prevent any movement. If not, use duct tape to "close the gap" on any given side. I used full length splines, 3/4" wide by approximately 3/16" thick, ripped on my table saw. For the other two sides, during 'glue up', I had a good supply made up of 3/4" x 3/4" short splines during assembly. I "picture framed" the board and splined the entire inner frame's side too . Finally, used Titebond III glue, wax paper and a flat surface, utilizing steel pipe clamps and a damp rag to remove excess glue.