What a great bit!
Posted November 13, 2013
I’m building a hope chest and needed a good and fast way to join the 45 degree miter sides together. So I bought this bit to do that job. It took me a little time to set up it up, but boy I love this bit. It makes real nice tight 90 degree joints and you almost don’t need any glue.
I liked the bit. With a...
Posted March 30, 2011
I liked the bit. With a little time to figure out how to set it up, I was able to make very tight and square joints.A couple of things though:1. - The B height of the bit's cutting edge is 7/8" and the height of the angle cutting portion is 13/16".2. I believe the setup blocks are a waste of time and money.You will spend all of your time trying to find or plane wood to exactly 3/4" - suspect that is not going to be easy. Plywood is already 11/16"Best to center by raising the bit to an approximate center, move the fence so just the leading edge of the center cutter is exposed. Then run a wood scrape half way past the bit, turn over the wood scrape and run it again to meet the first cut. Adjust the bit height up-down to 1/2 the difference of the two cuts - then retest and confirm the center. 3. - Suggest that in making the joinery edge, don't try to get a sharp knife edge. It is nearly impossible to make the tolerance without some overcutting of the edge. If the tolerance isn't made when cutting, the milled edge will then be unsupported by the fence by the depth of the overcut. And will cause a wavering of the edge and some skipe at the tail end when the piece as it becomes unsupported when passing the bit opening in the fence.Suggest leaving 1/64" - 1/32" - It will not be noticeable in the finished joint and will help to prevent tear out of the edge.
I was happy with this bit,...
Posted March 27, 2011
I was happy with this bit, it worked as promised.I practiced on poplar before moving to cherry. When used properly the corner joint pretty much disappears from view. Like all fine woodworking proper alignment and flat wood delivers excellent results.
I use the 45 lock miter...
Posted March 27, 2011
I use the 45 lock miter bit to give me face grain on all four sides of the Stickley style funiture legs I make. Several comments have been made on how sensitive the set up is on this bit. I have found that by the use of a digital height guage, I can set the bit height spot on. I measure the thickness of the stock and devide by half and add .22 in. I derived the .22 in. by measuring from the top of the juncture where the 45 cutting surface meets the top cutter arm and the bottom juncture where the bit is 45 deg. again. On my bit this measured out at .44. I take half the stock meassurement, add .22 in. and set my digital height gage to that measurement. I raise the bit untill the gage contacts the juncture of the top 45 cutter where it meets the top cutter arm and I'm spot on. I usually make at least three passes to sneak up on the final edge and minimise chipping and tearout. I have had great results with the bit. I almost never need to test cut anymore
I bought the jig also and...
Posted March 1, 2011
I bought the jig also and it is an excellent tool. Using the jig it takes no time at all to be set up and running. Would definitely recommend this to anyone.