Overview
Heavy-duty construction is longer lasting and less likely to jam than plastic blast gates. Designed to fit inside the 4" clear flexible hose. For more simple, convenient, and stable operation, use our blast gate wall bracket (sold separately). It attaches to both the wall and gate, eliminating the sloppy hose movement that occurs when opening an unanchored blast gate.
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Questions and Answers
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Why did you choose this?
Rockler Store
you sold me worthless 4 inch plastic blast gates that you might sell to your enemies not your favored customers. I truly deserve a full refund for the plastic gates. They leak, they break at the drop of a hat, and they rattle
Jay C
on May 11, 2017
More durability than the plastic gates with which I have experienced clogging issues.
Gregory H
on Apr 23, 2017
you sold me worthless 4 inch plastic blast gates that you might sell to your enemies not your favored customers. I truly deserve a full refund for the plastic gates. They leak, they break at the drop of a hat, and they rattle
Jay C
on May 11, 2017
Never enough
scott k
on Apr 30, 2017
Has anyone tried these with 4" 30 ga galvanized HVAC duct? Will they connect?
BEST ANSWER: Solving the same problem now. They fit inside the non-crimped end of the 4" HVAC duct, but there are no screw holes, so I'm in a bit of a pickle since I wanted to use them on vertical sections of duct. Should be fine for horizontal runs.
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- Brian M on Jan 17, 2016
- Purchased on Jan 3, 2016
I can't tell from the pictures: Are there mounting holes that allow mounting these flat on panel instead of a flange? I've got an Incra Router Table Combo (the works!) on the way and I'm running my dust collection for the fence through the dust collection cavity which will contain the router. 4" connection to my DC system, 2-1/2" hose from this cavity to the 2nd collection point on my fence. When router head is away from the fence, I'd like to be able to shut down the fence DC.
Alternatively, what type of metal is it? Easily weldable (So I can mount a couple of strips for mounting flat)?
Alternatively, what type of metal is it? Easily weldable (So I can mount a couple of strips for mounting flat)?
4'' Metal Blast Gates
BEST ANSWER: There are flanges on both sides of the gates and are designed to be mounted in-line to hard or flex tubing.
They are made of aluminum except for the part that slides which is steel. There are no screw holes but they can be drilled for hard tubing and clamps can be used with flex tubing.
They are made of aluminum except for the part that slides which is steel. There are no screw holes but they can be drilled for hard tubing and clamps can be used with flex tubing.
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- James C on May 13, 2017
Reviews
4.2 / 5.0
61 Reviews
Well made and can be disassembled...
Well made and can be disassembled for service. Not obvious but this gate works better with the lock screw (clamps the gate in position, not shown in photo) on the upstream side (opposite the suction source). The lock screw can cause the baffle to stand off from the housing and leak. With the correct orientation the suction will hold the baffle tight to the seat.
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February 26, 2008
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The metal blast gates are considerably better than the plastic ones. I have had problems with sawdust getting in the crack of the plastic gates and not able to close them. The metal ones don't seem to have that problem. I will be replacing the plastic ones with metal.
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Keeps the gate clean
The metal gates are much better than the plastic ones. The plastic ones get dust in the closed end where some people want to put a seal and will not close completely causing a really large vacuum loss. I started my dust collection system with pastic blast gates due to the price. I have since replaced all the pastic blast gates with metal ones and have not regretted it one bit. The small loss of vacuum can be overlooked if you have a big enough supply on the business end of the system.
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January 22, 2014
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Good value, well made except for...
Good value, well made except for the amount of air they suck in when closed and screwed shut. Perhaps some kind of seal could be inserted in a groove during assembly. I am sure that would get more excellence than any other category.
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January 7, 2008
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I have a bunch of these...
I have a bunch of these - and the 2-1/2" ones - and am using them with the plastic bases. They work fine, though the open bottom does indeed represent a significant vacuum leak when the gate is open. Orienting the gate with the screw pushing the gate toward the vacuum-supply side does maintain a decent seal when closed, but when the gate is up, nothing fills the gap at the bottom of the gate. The gates do not sit deeply enough in the plastic bases for the bases to act as a seal. I agree with the others who say the flanges are too short. It was especially challenging to get these installed using hose clamps and bases when the hose was new and cold (not as pliable). I recommend using hose clamps to secure the hose to the flange and a separate zip tie to secure the gate to the base. I haven't tried to close off the bottoms of the gates yet - I only recently realized they were leaking there. A length of duct tape should do the trick, I would imagine. Other than that, they're sure sturdy and the gate seals well when oriented properly.
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January 10, 2013
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Locking Screw a Problem
I've purchased a couple of these and I have two issues.
One is that the product/price sticker on the blast gate is right where the locking screw hits it. This makes for a mess if you don't take them off first and that isn't always easy either.
My second, and most important issue is that the lock screw vibrates loose. Depending on the orientation they are installed in, if the blast gate is veritical, it takes two hands to hold open the gate and tighten the screw. If you set the screw just loose enough to be able to slide the gate in and out when needed, the vibration of materials going through the gate loosen the screw.
My fix was to add a small compression spring over the screw threads so that the screw stays wherever you leave it.
One is that the product/price sticker on the blast gate is right where the locking screw hits it. This makes for a mess if you don't take them off first and that isn't always easy either.
My second, and most important issue is that the lock screw vibrates loose. Depending on the orientation they are installed in, if the blast gate is veritical, it takes two hands to hold open the gate and tighten the screw. If you set the screw just loose enough to be able to slide the gate in and out when needed, the vibration of materials going through the gate loosen the screw.
My fix was to add a small compression spring over the screw threads so that the screw stays wherever you leave it.
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They're pretty good
The good: These are well made and sturdy, with nice castings. They can be disassembled. I like the lock knobs, which should be installed on the upstream side to a provide proper seal. These are way stronger, and look better than plastic gates.
The bad: Although nicely cast, the design of the castings have three design issues.
As others have pointed out, the flanges would work much better if they were longer. Short flanges are no fun if you are having a wrestling match with a pesky piece of flex tubing. My clamps sit at the outer edge of the flanges, rather than securely up the flange a bit. Once assembled, these have not given me any problems.
Second, at the back edge of the gate slot, the casting is slotted all the way through. Huh? I covered mine with a strip of aluminum ducting tape (the metal stuff, not the fabric stuff) to eliminate a massive vacuum leak.
Third, the slot in the casting that the gate operates through has a large amount of slop. The slot is about three times the thickness of the sheet-metal gate that passes through it. This is a way bigger gap than the plastic ones I have, and again creates a substantial vacuum leak when in operation. To solve this issue, I opened up the casting and installed a strip of adhesive backed velcro, loop side only, across the trailing edge of the the gate, just inside the bump in the sheetmetal, and on the side toward the locking knob. Now when I pull the gate open the velcro fills the gap in the casting, and eliminates the vacuum leak. When operating the gate, I have to pull a little harder, but it's not a big deal, and it tells me I'm getting a good seal.
I'm quite happy with how the gates perform - after tuning them a bit - so I give them 4 stars.
The bad: Although nicely cast, the design of the castings have three design issues.
As others have pointed out, the flanges would work much better if they were longer. Short flanges are no fun if you are having a wrestling match with a pesky piece of flex tubing. My clamps sit at the outer edge of the flanges, rather than securely up the flange a bit. Once assembled, these have not given me any problems.
Second, at the back edge of the gate slot, the casting is slotted all the way through. Huh? I covered mine with a strip of aluminum ducting tape (the metal stuff, not the fabric stuff) to eliminate a massive vacuum leak.
Third, the slot in the casting that the gate operates through has a large amount of slop. The slot is about three times the thickness of the sheet-metal gate that passes through it. This is a way bigger gap than the plastic ones I have, and again creates a substantial vacuum leak when in operation. To solve this issue, I opened up the casting and installed a strip of adhesive backed velcro, loop side only, across the trailing edge of the the gate, just inside the bump in the sheetmetal, and on the side toward the locking knob. Now when I pull the gate open the velcro fills the gap in the casting, and eliminates the vacuum leak. When operating the gate, I have to pull a little harder, but it's not a big deal, and it tells me I'm getting a good seal.
I'm quite happy with how the gates perform - after tuning them a bit - so I give them 4 stars.
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The flanges on these as well...
The flanges on these as well as the 2 1/2" blast gates are not long enough to use the 4 inch hose clamps without some real squeezing by you. You almost need three hands but if the flange were a half inch longer, it would be so easy.
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April 18, 2011
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With the blast gate installed with...
With the blast gate installed with the thumb screw facing away from the vacuum, the thumb screw and suction creates a good seal in the closed position. However in the open position, installed either way, there is a very significant gap around unit where the two sections are screwed together. There should be a gasket there! I would return the item, postage would seem to be a waste. I’ll insert some type of gasket with a thicker gate slide, this will create a much tighter seal, and make the item satisfactory to me. This item also has male connections, I would prefer female ends that would fit over the pipe. The unit is made solid, serviceable but in Taiwan. I would not recommend this item unless you intend to correct its leakage, or I might have received a bad one. I am still a very satisfied customer of Rockler.
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January 18, 2012
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