Concentrated dye solution makes it easy to apply beautiful color to your project. Mix with water for an economical, non-flammable stain or with alcohol/ lacquer thinner for a fast drying, non-grain raising stain. For use as a finish toner, simply add the dye concentrate to shellac, water-base finishes, solvent lacquers, and catalyzed varnish or lacquers.
- All colors are intermixable to produce custom shades
- Ideal for tinting woodworking glues, touch up and repair work, and adjusting the color of pre-mixed stains
- Shipping Restrictions: Ground Transportation Only to addresses within the continental United States.
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So far, I’ve been using these on the lathe just like any other finish, then putting a friction polish on afterwards. Not sure if that’s how they are supposed to work, but it dries and comes out nicely.
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As per their website: homesteadfinishingproducts . com
'Are dyes toxic?
The dyes we sell are not poisonous, but some are harmful if they are swallowed or ingested. Refer to the MSDS for each individual dye here.
Due to current regulations, TransTint and TransFast dyes are not suitable for food preparation surfaces, toys or infant furniture for children under the age of 12.'
Distilled from various sources:
Bob Flexner's 'Understanding Wood Finish' book, indicates that a 'finish' will be food safe after it's completely cured.
and this same applies to stains...once cured, they are also "safe". This is assuming they are oil-based stains that cure. Dyes and stains that are water or alcohol soluble could potentially bleed as they will re-dissolve when they come in contact with their reducer.'
and... 'Aniline dyes are food safe once they are dry. If used on a vessel or piece that will be used to serve food the recommendation is to put a clear coat of finish over the dye. Constant use will cause scratches and some wear and tear of the dye. Never put a wooden piece in the dishwasher (don’t ask me how I know this), instead wipe clean and towel dry.'
'The problem you face is that the "binder" in pigment stains that are intended to hold the insoluble pigment in place are insufficient to hold that pigment in place unless a film forming topcoat is applied. Such topcoats are incompatible with cutting.'
I believe that if you use any kind of colorant, it will not last long on any surface used as a cutting board.
it depends on dilution
i have used it by drops into another liquid and i have used it full strength
In general, you will find that Maple doesn't absorb much stain, and applying a lot will make the color look 'grainy'.
In a professional setting, I believe they would seal the wood (w/Shellac) and then spray the dye onto the surface so that a smooth even coat is applied. (This doesn't really work by hand... I've tried.)
So the final answer is: a conditioner would be wise, but a dye may not be what you really want...
You may have better luck sealing the wood w/Shellac Sanding Sealer then use a gel stain which isn't so much about soaking into the wood but laying the color on the surface. And then applying several coats.
As always... experiment.
You can mix colors together, or add colors in layers which really gives you a lot of play room. I like putting the colors on in layers. I have had no problem sanding the color out if I was totally unhappy, which only happened once.
I don't know if it would mix with a cup of danish oil, but give it a try, if it separates, you are not out that much of either. I haven't done it yet, but I saw on YouTube you can mix it into lacquer or varnish then spray or brush it on. Myself, I like to put it directly on the wood. Oh, and a little goes a long long ways.
I absolutely love this stuff.
(and now the disclaimer).......Try it on a piece of scrap wood first.
I plan on tinting a water based polyurethane. I want to end up with a ginger ale color. Anyone know what colors I would need to create a ginger ale or champagne color? Thanks!