Rockler Beadlock® Pro Joinery Kit
Get incredibly strong, totally concealed joints with just your hand drill and the Beadlock Pro Kit. Beadlock® Pro does everything Beadlock® Basic does, but adds greater capacity and adjustability, plus the ability to create traditional smooth-sided mortises. Just pop the included paring block into the jig to provide an accurate guide for your chisel. With a 3-1/2" width capacity, it will easily handle the large joints found in tables, chairs and big casework. Slide the guide block along the rails to place your mortise precisely where you want it. Includes Beadlock® Pro Jig, 3/8" drill bit, 3/8" stop collar, 3/8" Beadlock® guide block, 3/8" mortise paring guide block and a molded plastic case with added space for the optional accessory kits. All Accessory Kits include corresponding guide block, mortise paring guide block, HSS drill bit and stop collar. Storage case is molded with additional spacing for optional 1/4" and 1/2" drill block sizes (#39882 and #36546, sold separately).
- Beadlock® system overlaps drill bit holes precisely to accept a special Beadlock® loose tenon
- Creates an extremely strong, totally concealed joint
- Integral clamp
- Infinite adjustability
- Constructed of heavy-duty 3/8" anodized aluminum with
- All adjustments are made with easy-grip knobs
- Index lines on the guide block allow you to precisely align the jig with your reference marks
- Index lines on the ends of jig, allow you to line up mortise width-wise on the piece
- Handles stock thicknesses of 3/4" and up
(1) 3/8" Stop Collar
(1) 3/8" Beadlock® Guide Block
(1) 3/8" Mortise Paring Guide Block
(1) Molded plastic case with space for Accessory Kit
|Manufacturer Part Number||TAMPJ-38K|
WARNING: Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/wood.
2 months ago
YES I DO RECOMMEND THIS PRODUCT
4 months ago
My one error was due to drilling a dowel on the wrong side of the line on the jig. However by being mindful of this, I feel confident using the jig for dowels, Beadlocks, or loose tenons.
7 months ago
10 months ago
9 months ago
9 months ago
1 year ago
1 year ago
Joining gate frame with an inch and an eighth dado in center for wood lattice.
Instructions were step by stp lettr perfect. Nobody at Rockler could tell me if mitered corners on 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" material could be beadlocked.
Used 1/2" tenons.
Built first joint with scraps. Thouroughly impressed.
Hard part of assembly was getting all joints glued up before dry joint.
1 year ago
The Beadlock is a great and more affordable alternative to the Domino. I'm confident people would pay more for a beefed up version with top notch bass knobs and upgraded version.
each), Or I'm I stuck buying the Rockler Beadlock® Pro Joinery Kit ($149.99 each) to make 1/2" mortises?
I'm joining some 2x6 cedar for deck railing caps and making mitered joints, but I don't want to blow my deck project budget any more than I already have. Any and all comments and suggestions would be appreciated at this point.
Yes, as long as you will be drilling parallel to the faces of the rail board, but you will need to be extra careful in your layout. The Beadlock tenon stock will travel perpendicular to the end of the rail, so, at an angle to the grain, but must travel parallel to the faces of the rail so that it doesn't come through the faces and show. The tenon stock will travel like normal in the leg of the stand, but you are not going to have a good reference face in the end grain due to the compound cut there. Layout is key, I suggest you layout the entire tenon on each piece on the outside so that you can visualize where it needs to be and how it travels, give yourself extra space above it and below it, because in the leg it will be traveling uphill towards the shortest corner, but in the rail you will be traveling downhill towards the lowest edge (which bevels backwards and is shorter on the inside face). It may make sense to not do the top & bottom bevels on the rail or the compound bevel on the legs until after you have done the Beadlock mortises and leave that board wider than necessary (you WILL need to cut the ends of the rails to properly do this, though). Since you are not going to be able to use an end or corner as reference like you can with a square project, after you do the layout, you will need to make yourself a reference point/lines to work from with the Beadlock. You will use that set of lines for all the mortises so all the mortises will be drilled from the same reference line. You will need to drill the rails slowly because you will be fighting the grain. Good Luck! In your case definitely Measure Twice and Cut Once!
While the plastic tri-wing knobs work well in many applications due to my larger hands I was skinning my knuckles too much and replaced the knobs with socket hex-head cap screws and use an Allen hex wrench to tighten those fasteners.
To insure that the beadlock fixture does not move during use I use an Irwin Quick Clamp for added insurance.
The sale price of $109.99 is a great offering and this system produces solid, well aligned joints in minimal time.