Rockler Tablesaw CrossCut Sled
No more squinting at those tiny scales - this Crosscut Sled's large protractor scale lets you precisely tune your angles for air-tight miters and crosscuts. Easy-to-read 1/2° graduations and a hair-line indicator ensure error-free setups, while a heavy-duty aluminum fence, adjustable MDF fence face, and smooth-sliding components delivers versatile and precise operation. Optional Crosscut Sled Drop-Off Platform also available (sold separately)
- 1/2" thick 23-3/4" x 23-3/4" MDF table with melamine coating
- Easy-to-read 1/2° graduations and a hair-line indicator ensure error-free setups
- Extra material allows you to cut the sled down to fit your saw perfectly
- Right edge of sled functions as a zero-clearance chip breaker
- Includes four 2' pieces of 3/4" wide self-adhesive low-friction tape for smooth sliding of the platform and fence
- MDF Fence face can be removed for replacement
- Spring-loaded ball bearings in the miter bar have adjustable tension to eliminate slop
- Adjustable 90° stop
- Right edge of miter bar is 6" from right edge of un-cut platform
- Not compatible with DeWalt 7491RS saws.
- 3/4'' of the platform should be supported by your table saw.
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WARNING: Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/wood.
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There is a YouTube video by David Stanton addressing this issue and a great fix for it.
Hope that helps.
The miterslot is 6" from the blade.
Will the sled work for this saw?
My saw has a left lean
Your left leaning blade needs to be fixed first if you want accurate cuts. Turn the saw table upside down and adjust the saw trunnions to true up the blade.
the blade guards so so much in the way of nearly every kind of operation on a table saw very few people use them.
the right portion of the sled is stationary, and is used to level the table for the wood going thru the saw.
The left side of the sled should move freely after the fence is clamped to the desired angle, and the stop and wood hold down clamp adjusted. I have made hundreds of small wood blocks very accurately for my hobby of making segmented bowls on my wood lathe.
Hope this helps. BTW, I use my sled more often than I thought I would.
my solution would be to rip off a hard wood - maple suggested - strip at least 2x the width needed. glue that strip onto the router sled and then recut.
be aware - different saw blades have different kerf widths so presuming you've overcome the large distance issues, switching blades you will still encounter small differences sled-to-actual-kerf.
The problem is controlling the work piece. You have to hold it down on the saw top and firm to the fence If you have outrigger support, you could do longer. The 16" width would put the piece close to the lead edge of the sled. If you use the built in clamp, then 10" would be the width on a crosscut. The width would decrease if you do any mitering. I used the sled when I made a ukulele. I got the precise cuts I needed for fit. So most of my cuts were with smaller wood. I did set it up and measured things out and felt that I could cut the sizes that I stated above.
I have a Jobsite table saw so it is smaller.
(from Rickler web site)